View Full Version : used motor on its way
Jeffonebuck
02-04-2014, 12:59 AM
The car has been sitting since April when I bought it and I was in the process of selling my house and moving so I couldn't replace the engine at that time. I bought a used motor with 94k on it and should be here this week. I've got the garage pretty straight and the tools in from storage. I'm not a mechanic but pretty good with wrench so ill be swapping this out with the info I've been gathering. Soon as it gets here ill be pulling out the one with 218k miles. I plan on replacing the timing chain assy and going with new FRP, new water pump, cobra engineering rear cooling mod, give it a good clean and do some powdercoating, then put it in and give it a new tune. I will post pictures as I go and hope to have it done by Louisville.
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L.Mark
02-04-2014, 01:05 AM
Nice...hope you get it done quickly...and not just because of Louisville...
Jeffonebuck
02-14-2014, 08:57 PM
I got started today breaking this engine down and checking for hidden problems. This is what it looked like after I got it set up on the stand. 37449. After 3 or 4 hours of work I can see what looks like a pretty good replacement. From what my untrained eye can see the heads and valves look good,,,, timing chains, tensioners and guides all look good,, the bottom of the oil pan had very little sludge and no metal grit. I'm pretty happy with what I've seen so far but I would really like to see what the cylinder walls look like, but really hate to pull the heads. Also I want to flip it over and check the bottom end out but that will have to wait till next Tuesday. I've heard you guys talk about plasti-gaugeing so I'll try to do a search on that. Here's a pic as I finished up for the night. 37451
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Embassy
02-15-2014, 06:44 AM
Solid work.
Look forward to meeting you at the Kentucky meet.
justbob
02-15-2014, 08:03 AM
Congrats. Hope she's quiet.
Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.
Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"
Looks like a good one. Don't mess with the tensioners, the steel ones never go bad.
Swap the guides and be done. Do not remove any of the rod bolts or main caps unless you have new bolts from Ford.
Jeffonebuck
02-15-2014, 08:17 PM
Solid work.
Look forward to meeting you at the Kentucky meet.
I'll be there with suspenders on !!, but I don't think I'll have the Marauder up by then, got a lot on my plate in the next 2 weeks
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justbob
02-15-2014, 10:02 PM
Say what? That's an afternoons job! Snap snap
Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.
Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"
Jeffonebuck
02-16-2014, 07:41 AM
Say what? That's an afternoons job! Snap snap
Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.
Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"
The real test for me has yet to come, putting it back together and getting everything hooked up without any glitches. I'll be pulling the original engine out of the car next week and figuring what parts to swap and what I'll need to buy and sending some out for powdercoat
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Jeffonebuck
02-16-2014, 12:51 PM
Since there is no positive proof that this motor has the miles that were quoted to me and that I am leaving the heads on, what can I do to make sure that the top end is ok?,,,Should I just pull the heads and spend another $150 on bolts and gaskets ?
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Drewstang
02-16-2014, 06:04 PM
When you flip it over, sometimes you can see the bottom of the bores and if there is any cross hatching left. Another option is to get a bore scope and look through the spark plug holes.
Jeffonebuck
02-16-2014, 06:23 PM
Gonna give her a flip Tuesday, to see if any loose change falls out. Oil looked good when I took pan off so I'm feeling OK about the head gasket, no scoring or bluing on cam lobes, everything is tight and intake valves look straight. Thanks Drew !
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I looked at the picture you posted, and that engine looks excellent.
Just install it and turn the key!
Jeffonebuck
02-16-2014, 08:19 PM
I don't think this was a MMnet members car,,I wonder if he bought used oil out of the Barrel !!37461. This will be coming out next week piece by piece ,,this was a Maryland car.37462. A little better pic to show how good of shape the guides are in 37463
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IwantmyMMnow!
02-16-2014, 08:21 PM
Thanks for posting the pic of the guides...I've read so many posts on here about them, but had no clue where they were or what they looked like until now.
Ive had dozens of Marauder engines apart, and that is one fine looking engine.
Put it back together and run it.
Guides do not wear out unless the owner fails to do proper maintenance.
There is no reason to panic or do preventative maintenance on them.
Jeffonebuck
02-16-2014, 08:27 PM
That's what I wanna Hear, Z,,,it was so neglected looking on the outside when I went to pick it up at the terminal,,,,brought it home and it had the top two bell housing bolts left in the back,, both bolts were seized in and broke off,, had to drill and retap to even get it on a stand ,,I thought what have I got here a peice of s,,,t !
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Motorhead350
02-17-2014, 01:44 PM
Looks like the condition of my current engine before install, probably a little nicer. Make sure you have new plugs, COPS, fuel filter and you will be ready to rocket.
Looks like the condition of my current engine before install, probably a little nicer. Make sure you have new plugs, COPS, fuel filter and you will be ready to rocket.
There is no comparison between your engine and this one.
Motorhead350
02-17-2014, 02:59 PM
There is no comparison between your engine and this one.
Oh really?
Does this one run on Kerosene?
Jeffonebuck
02-21-2014, 10:37 PM
Had the day off today so I got online with tousley and put an order together,everything OEM, sent an email to Travis ordering his cooling kit, parts out to powder coat,timing cover and coil covers powder chrome and the valve covers a metallic black pearl. Ordered the mmr socket head and red anodized washers w/ o ring seal kit for the valve covers. All the pulleys and balancer will be painted with a DTR rattle can over high temp primer. Thought about several color combinations but decided to keep it old school with the black valve covers and the red of the bolt kit to hold them down. Then on to the hose about 5 pm and started tearing in to the motor still in the car. 37514. Now to see what was making all that noise. 37515. Chain was a little loose 37516. As I was tearing it down I noticed this hose was a little loose !!37517.
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Jeffonebuck
02-23-2014, 05:28 PM
Would rebuilding the fuel injectors be an option or would you recommend replacing or leaving them alone as they were working ok before this swap ?
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Jeffonebuck
02-23-2014, 06:46 PM
Thanks , my wallet is getting light !!
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Jeffonebuck
02-28-2014, 10:48 PM
I went to check on parts at powdercoater today and my parts were sitting where I left them. Seems he had a large order with a manufacturer and put my stuff further down the list. I loaded them in my truck and left. After about 5 hours I got the T-cover and valve covers cleaned, sanded, and prepped. Got the T-cover painted and let it gas off till tomorrow, then I'll bake it if my wife leaves. Originally was to be powder chrome but changed my mind. This should look good with the DTR pulleys and black pearl water pump and valve covers37572. The amount of work that it's going to take to clean up the engine bay and all the corroded parts is overwhelming me right now but I won't put this new motor back in the mess that's there. Looks like making Looseville might be out of the question with the car. Can someone tell me what this is, there's one mounted to the valve covers on each side, is it a ground of some sort ? Can it be moved off the valve covers ? 37573
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JoeBoomz
03-01-2014, 06:38 PM
Those, apparently are to reduce "noise" or interference in the audio electronics of the vehicle. I have relocated mine to the back of the heads, though I don't think they're even really needed.
Jeffonebuck
03-01-2014, 06:56 PM
Those, apparently are to reduce "noise" or interference in the audio electronics of the vehicle. I have relocated mine to the back of the heads, though I don't think they're even really needed.
Thanks Joe B, the one on the D side should pull back fine, the P side will have to be lengthened
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Jeffonebuck
03-22-2014, 05:06 PM
Just about ready to go in, just need another Free day or two. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/23/abu3usyq.jpg. New fittings from Travis for COThttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/23/e3ady7e3.jpg. Still prepping upper intake and then put the harness onhttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/23/4ehajeqa.jpg.
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a_d_a_m
03-22-2014, 05:24 PM
I looked at the picture you posted, and that engine looks excellent. Understand that this is coming from my experience from 2012 (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=82117) and is not trying to start **** with you...I just feel like for an extra few hundred bucks, since the motor is already out, this is the perfect time to have a valve/head job done and be positive that the car is ready to roll.
I mean, the inside of my motor was pretty damn clean at 105k (tensioner arms needed replacing (http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w110/jackiegleason/MarauderHead/100_3653.jpg)but everything else looked clean (http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w110/jackiegleason/MarauderHead/100_3651.jpg)).
Jeffonebuck
03-22-2014, 05:40 PM
Understand that this is coming from my experience from 2012 (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=82117) and is not trying to start **** with you...I just feel like for an extra few hundred bucks, since the motor is already out, this is the perfect time to have a valve/head job done and be positive that the car is ready to roll.
I mean, the inside of my motor was pretty damn clean at 105k (tensioner arms needed replacing (http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w110/jackiegleason/MarauderHead/100_3653.jpg)but everything else looked clean (http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w110/jackiegleason/MarauderHead/100_3651.jpg)).
Adam,I had second thoughts about pulling the heads so I had a friend come over and bores cope it and I did a leak down test, everything looked good and held good pressure
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JoeBoomz
03-22-2014, 07:18 PM
Love the colors, looks great!
guspech750
03-22-2014, 09:50 PM
Wow. Looks great.
See ya in Louisville.
Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.
DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom
Chevyguy
03-23-2014, 06:30 AM
Understand that this is coming from my experience from 2012 (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=82117) and is not trying to start **** with you...I just feel like for an extra few hundred bucks, since the motor is already out, this is the perfect time to have a valve/head job done and be positive that the car is ready to roll.
I mean, the inside of my motor was pretty damn clean at 105k (tensioner arms needed replacing (http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w110/jackiegleason/MarauderHead/100_3653.jpg)but ).
Other than it's a 2003 engine it's hard to tell even if removing the heads?
The only info I can find is
Early runs of the '03 DOHC head fell victim to the same number 6, 7, and 8 cylinder coolant flow problems as earlier tumble-port castings. In mid-2003, Ford made a running revision to the '03 DOHC heads that allowed more coolant to circulate through the affected areas. A blue mark on the driver-side head indicates an updated casting, and there are no additional revisions to the '04 version of this design.
Read more: [url]http://www.mustang50magazine.com/techarticles/m5lp_0412_ford_four_valve_head _information_guide/2003_dohc_head.html#ixzz2wnBSZ nOO] ("http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w110/jackiegleason/MarauderHead/100_3651.jpg"everything else looked clean[/URL)
So blue mark = OK and no mark = certain doom
Chevyguy
03-23-2014, 07:30 AM
Guides do not wear out unless the owner fails to do proper maintenance.
There is no reason to panic or do preventative maintenance on them.
The 2000 - 2003 2v had inferior nylon on the tensioner arms, Apparently some 4V had this problem too. Regular oil changes and non police abuse can avoid wearing down the arms. With the proper nylon, the older engines never had problems with this wear even with severe abuse.
It sucks to pull the front cover off only to find you had no problem, but then you feel good about the engine, and boy she was clean inside, Synthetic since 30K with the previous owner and myself since 98K
My 2001 2V with 189K
http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/folingo/2001%20Crown%20Victoria/Timing%20Chain/SL371345.jpg (http://s348.photobucket.com/user/folingo/media/2001%20Crown%20Victoria/Timing%20Chain/SL371345.jpg.html)
Blk04MM
03-23-2014, 08:38 AM
My brother in law sold you the motor. Glad it's working out for you.
Jeffonebuck
03-23-2014, 06:49 PM
My brother in law sold you the motor. Glad it's working out for you.
Thanks, Chris ! As soon as I put this motor in I'm going to sell off some parts and send you a bonus for making this happen. Are you coming up to Louisville ?
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Jeffonebuck
03-30-2014, 11:36 AM
4 or 5 hours a week getting to work on this is making me over anxious and affecting my thought process as evident in these pics. I haven't put the new engine in yet as I am taking the old motor out piece by piece and inspecting all the wiring and plumbing and how it all goes together. Last night I started pulling the heads and the first thing I noticed was in this pic.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/31/zyjumugy.jpg. I had the old covers off to clean and paint so I had pulled out the windage trays to clean them. Over anxious to get them back on. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/31/gu3a5aza.jpg
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Blk04MM
05-05-2014, 04:07 PM
Thanks, Chris ! As soon as I put this motor in I'm going to sell off some parts and send you a bonus for making this happen. Are you coming up to Louisville ?
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Late response but I'll relay the message for you. He usually doesn't attend the marauder functions unless it's close to Florida. Hope all is still well with your build
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