View Full Version : Think i found my Perfect Rotors!!!
marauder21
02-13-2014, 10:18 AM
Two questions, the marauder rotors are 12" and 11.6" correct?
And has anyone tried this brand/rotors?
http://m.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3068A0A0.aspx
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ctrlraven
02-13-2014, 10:28 AM
I've had those rotors before, warped within 12k miles and turned them, warped again in 7k miles and then tossed them. Was running a Green stuff pad on them.
Currently running Raybestos rotors and pads now and been very happy. Found rotors and pads on amazon for cheap.
Front - 680110PER
Rear - 680129PER
Napa also sells these rotors as well but under different part numbers.
Thread on the Raybestos rotors I started.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=88481
ChiTownMaraud3r
02-13-2014, 10:35 AM
The R1 Concepts rotors are supposed to be good as well.
marauder21
02-13-2014, 10:40 AM
Do any of those brands sell black rotors too? I think having black rotors be sweet...i mean if im going to get slotted and drilled rotors why not get em black as well you know lol
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Get quality stock replacements.
The more meat on the rotor the better with a 4200lb car
ctrlraven
02-13-2014, 10:43 AM
Do any of those brands sell black rotors too? I think having black rotors be sweet...i mean if im going to get slotted and drilled rotors why not get em black as well you know lol
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The only part of the rotor that will stay black is the hat area, the swept area will look typical as the pad will clean off any paint or coating on the rotor swept area.
marauder21
02-13-2014, 10:55 AM
The only part of the rotor that will stay black is the hat area, the swept area will look typical as the pad will clean off any paint or coating on the rotor swept area.
You think so? I figured these rotors would be* .like the ones they have on the porsche and such...those Gold colored rotors. Lol
Imma look more into them. See if i could find a good set of Black Rotors
And Zack....im on it boss. Lol
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RubberCtyRauder
02-13-2014, 11:03 AM
gold and black colored rotors are just anodizing..surface treatment, a few braking cycles and it will be worn off the pad area, guaranteed, it will stay onthe non-contact parts...they don;t and can't make colored, heat treated steel..I work with tool steels everyday. Porsche rotors can cost thousands for the high end ones and are prolly carbon/ceramic based
risky
02-13-2014, 11:25 AM
I've had R1 concept Rotors for 3 years without a problem
lifespeed
02-13-2014, 04:39 PM
I've had those rotors before, warped within 12k miles and turned them, warped again in 7k miles and then tossed them. Was running a Green stuff pad on them.
Currently running Raybestos rotors and pads now and been very happy. Found rotors and pads on amazon for cheap.
Front - 680110PER
Rear - 680129PER
The possibility of junk rotors is real. However, after going round and round with "warped" rotors first on the stock brakes with Hawk HPS pads and Command Automotive rotors, then on TCE/Wilwood 4-wheel brake kit with BP10 pads (I actually used up a set of $700 rotors in 10K miles !!) I have come to believe the following:
1) rotors don't usually warp. 90% of the time it is an issue of high spots transferred to the rotor from pad material getting hotter than the material is designed for.
2) Curing the symptom by resurfacing the rotors does only that, remove the symptom - high spots of pad transfer. If you use the same pads the problem is likely to recur.
So you need to use the right pads, and not leave the pads clamped to the rotor at a stoplight after exiting the highway and braking from 100 MPH to 0.
I have had good results with Ford Police and Porterfield R4S for stock brakes (although beware the Porterfields squeak a bit), and bad results with Hawk HPS. In general, I would advise to use semi-metallic and not use ceramic.
On the Wilwoods I have had poor results with BP10 compound, and good results with Porterfield R4S.
Here is a thread (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=91017)on the subject.
TiTo35
02-13-2014, 04:58 PM
Those are sweet...the site acting up though...
Marauderjack
02-14-2014, 04:19 AM
1) rotors don't usually warp. 90% of the time it is an issue of high spots transferred to the rotor from pad material getting hotter than the material is designed for.
What??:eek::confused:
MOTOWN
02-14-2014, 04:45 AM
Get a set of R1 concepts premium Drilled and slotted rotors and call it a day! excellent heavy duty rotors that will not warp, or crack.
boatmangc
02-14-2014, 05:10 AM
I have had good luck with these.
http://m.napaonline.com/Tablet/parts/PartDetails.aspx?Id=UBPRA88011 0_0278321757
I took fronts off after about 3000 miles to install my Wilwoods.
I want to take the rears off because they don't match the fronts and my OCD is killing me.
Send me a set of napa severe duty rear rotors and I will give you the whole set.
The rears have maybe 5000 miles on them
justbob
02-14-2014, 05:40 AM
Get a set of R1 concepts premium Drilled and slotted rotors and call it a day! excellent heavy duty rotors that will not warp, or crack.
I have now had my drilled/slotted R1 concepts (formerly race concepts IIRC) for over five years and over 50,000 miles.. I ran their junk pads (4 rotors w/pads deal for $199 shipped on ebay) for four years and only replaced due to very early stages of age and starting to crack. I would guess I still have 2-3 years left on the rotors!
You simply can not beat that.
Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.
Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"
MOTOWN
02-14-2014, 05:49 AM
I have now had my drilled/slotted R1 concepts (formerly race concepts IIRC) for over five years and over 50,000 miles.. I ran their junk pads (4 rotors w/pads deal for $199 shipped on ebay) for four years and only replaced due to very early stages of age and starting to crack. I would guess I still have 2-3 years left on the rotors!
You simply can not beat that.
Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.
Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"
I ran the Wagner thermo quiet ceramic pads before the big brake kit, still have that setup on the rear.
VMARAUDER
02-14-2014, 12:48 PM
I have these as well...good stuff
I've had those rotors before, warped within 12k miles and turned them, warped again in 7k miles and then tossed them. Was running a Green stuff pad on them.
Currently running Raybestos rotors and pads now and been very happy. Found rotors and pads on amazon for cheap.
Front - 680110PER
Rear - 680129PER
Napa also sells these rotors as well but under different part numbers.
Thread on the Raybestos rotors I started.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=88481
lifespeed
02-14-2014, 04:49 PM
What??:eek::confused:
There are some references in the Iinked thread, or you can search the net for this subject. I was surprised also.
whitey
02-14-2014, 05:10 PM
There are some references in the Iinked thread, or you can search the net for this subject. I was surprised also.
Ive read this too, pad material builds up on the rotors...
tonyshelton
02-14-2014, 06:02 PM
Not too happy with the eBay slotted and drilled rotors. They are great around town but hit a nice hot run through mountain curves with a few high speed sections mixed in and they start pulsating. Once they cool down they go back to normal. I just don't think they can go through too many cycles like that.
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lifespeed
02-15-2014, 01:46 AM
Not too happy with the eBay slotted and drilled rotors. They are great around town but hit a nice hot run through mountain curves with a few high speed sections mixed in and they start pulsating. Once they cool down they go back to normal. I just don't think they can go through too many cycles like that.
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Resurface the rotors and ditch the ceramic pads.
tonyshelton
02-15-2014, 09:43 AM
Resurface the rotors and ditch the ceramic pads.
Thanks. I'll try that. What pads would work well with those rotors? I had Hawk Pads before but they were noisy so I got rid of them.
lifespeed
02-15-2014, 12:50 PM
Thanks. I'll try that. What pads would work well with those rotors? I had Hawk Pads before but they were noisy so I got rid of them.
For noise problems you can try the pad shims. These will sometimes help. I don't like ceramic, which I think describes most Hawk pads. The temperature range is not as high as semi-metallic.
Porterfield R4S are really good, but may squeal under light pressure. Shims may help. Ford semi-metallic are good. I have heard good things about NAPA ultra-premium (but make sure you get the semi-metallic variety, not ceramic) but have not personally used them.
crouse
02-15-2014, 09:14 PM
I purchased a set of StopTech rotors (non cryo-treated) from Tire Rack about two years ago. I average about 9000 miles per year. I've ran the Hawk HPS pads on them first. Then a crappy set of pads from KNS. These pads would cake up in the slots. Then a set of Carbotech pads, which are awesome pads by the way, and now I'm back to the Hawk HPS pads for the winter. All I've done is hand sand the rotors before I changed pads. I run several auto cross events each year along with the normal daily driving and these rotors have not warped yet. I would highly recommend the StopTech rotors.
LOWBUCKMM
02-16-2014, 05:53 PM
Brake performance are the pads and rotors I have been using. If you buy the slotted and dimpled ones they come with pads and lifetime warranty even against warping.
Have been using them on my marauder and my daily driver never had a problem.
http://brakeperformance.com/brake-rotors/Premium-Dimpled-and-Slotted-Brake-Rotors.php
GreekGod
03-18-2014, 11:53 AM
I'm wondering if there is a consensus on drilled rotors? I can see slotting and dimpling them, but I can also see how drilling creates many potential stress risers, that would greatly increase the likelihood of cracking.
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lifespeed
03-18-2014, 01:51 PM
I'm wondering if there is a consensus on drilled rotors? I can see slotting and dimpling them, but I can also see how drilling creates many potential stress risers, that would greatly increase the likelihood of cracking.
Plain rotors are fine for all but extreme track use requiring a path for boiling friction material to outgas. I think some people like the appearance of drilled and slotted.
I would stick with plain, or slotted if you like that appearance. Dimples are useless (no path to outgas) and drilling is mechanically suspect (although some mfg's claim to be able to do it reliably). I have had good results with plain Wilwood rotors, but have not tried to cook the pads on a road race course. Yet.
jwibbity
03-18-2014, 03:01 PM
R1 Premium Drilled and Slotted FTW!!!!
justbob
03-18-2014, 03:29 PM
R1 Premium Drilled and Slotted FTW!!!!
+1 Probably five years / 50,000 on mine with no issues at all.
Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.
Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"
RF Overlord
03-18-2014, 08:04 PM
The more meat on the rotor the better with a 4200lb carRaybestos Police (http://www.raybestosbrakes.com/magnoliaPublic/home/products/advanced-technology-police-patrol-products/at-police-rotors.html). The rotors weigh one metric ton each. Rock Auto lost money on the shipping... :)
Jolly Roger
03-19-2014, 06:01 AM
NAPA drilled and slotted rotors have lifetime warranty.
Need I says more?;)
Hadamustang1
03-19-2014, 08:07 AM
Brake performance are the pads and rotors I have been using. If you buy the slotted and dimpled ones they come with pads and lifetime warranty even against warping.
Have been using them on my marauder and my daily driver never had a problem.
http://brakeperformance.com/brake-rotors/Premium-Dimpled-and-Slotted-Brake-Rotors.php
THATS A NICE DEAL.. But I'm still looking for a deal that includes rotors,pads and powder coated calipers.. Anybody seen something like that?
fastblackmerc
03-19-2014, 08:31 AM
THATS A NICE DEAL.. But I'm still looking for a deal that includes rotors,pads and powder coated calipers.. Anybody seen something like that?
TCE........... :banana::beer::banana2:
GreekGod
03-19-2014, 08:41 AM
EBC warning ...
http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/dangerous-cross-drilled-rotors/
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