5.0L Aluminator 46X for Marauder

[Jeronimojc]

Thinking long long term from now and trying to learn more about this. Any help with this subject would be awesome. What would it take to install this on a Marauder? What are the pros and cons of such installation as compared to other alternatives (rebuilding stock)? I did a search on the site for the M-6009-A46X 5L Aluminator short block and came out empty handed. I am not asking about the 4.6 Aluminator, which I understand is not being produced.


From Ford Racing site:
Build it your way! The Ford Racing 46X Modular Stroker shortblock is a great way to build modular power – from mild to wild – naturally aspirated or supercharged – 2 valve - 3 valve or 4 valve.
Ford Racing Engineers have taken care of the toughest part of building a new engine by designing a strong and durable shortblock that offers a wide range of power possibilities. Ford Racing uses only the best parts, like a forged Eagle steel crankshaft, forged Eagle H-beam connecting rods with floating piston pins, and forged Mahle pistons. Bored and stroked to 5.0 liters, this short block is precision internal balanced and ready to be finished to your specific application.
And every Ford Racing Aluminator short block is hand assembled in the U.S. with performance clearances.

4.6L based Modular short block bored and stroked to 5.0L – that’s a 21 cubic inch increase
Ford Racing Dyno testing results:

2V NA - Production 2V PI Heads, PI Intake and TFS Cam – 369 HP/393 lb. ft. torque
3V NA - Ford Racing 3V Ported Heads, Ford Racing Intake and Hot Rod Cams – 440 HP/435 lb. ft. torque
3V SC - Ford Racing 3V Ported Heads, Ford Racing 2.3L Supercharger and Hot Rod Cams – 748 HP/667 lb. ft. torque

Precision re-manufactured aluminum block with silver powdercoat (2005 - 2010 Mustang GT block)
Mahle® forged aluminum pistons - 0.5 mm overbore, with 10 cc dish that is compatible with 2, 3 or 4 valve heads
The Compression Ratios with the different heads are:

2V PI Heads – 10.8:1 Compression ratio
3V Production Heads – 9.8:1 Compression ratio
4V – 9.6:1 Compression ratio

Eagle® 3.750-inch stroke forged steel crankshaft with 8 bolt flywheel pattern
Eagle® 5.850-inch forged steel "H" beam rods with ARP 2000 bolts
New high pressure oil pump
Neutral balance rotating assembly
Designed for 2, 3 or 4 valve cylinder head combinations (piston to valve check required depending on camshaft)
Piston to Deck height clearance is 0.012" below (nominal)
Recommended cylinder head fastener kits M-6067-D46 or M-6067-3V46 depending on application
Assembled and ready for your heads, cam, and timing set
Photo and specs may vary


NUr9nRisJm8

[blkZooM]

If I read your question correctly this is a direct swap so there is no work at all that needs to be done to make it fit into a marauder. Would just be a normal short block swap.

[Pat]

Your post doesn't say what your goal is.

This block is only a basis for a high HP/torque engine. Of itself you gain little. Complete this block with ported/polished heads, Hi lift/longer duration cams, supercharger, inter-cooler, upgraded fuel delivery system to include injectors and pumps, -8 lines, long tube headers and matching exhaust components, transmission, drive shaft and rear end modifications to hold the increased power plus widened wheels to transfer the higher power to the ground, and brakes to stop and you have invested quite a large sum.

Maybe as a first step in adding the above listed components, even in stages, would warrant this short block investment.

You asked for pro's and con's, if all you want is just a new block your not getting much bang for the buck. But if you want 500-600 horse power it would be a wise choice.

Is this where your going?

The block should drop right into the chassis, as blkZooM states.

Good wishes,

[Jeronimojc]

Your post doesn't say what your goal is.

This block is only a basis for a high HP/torque engine. Of itself you gain little. Complete this block with ported/polished heads, Hi lift/longer duration cams, supercharger, inter-cooler, upgraded fuel delivery system to include injectors and pumps, -8 lines, long tube headers and matching exhaust components, transmission, drive shaft and rear end modifications to hold the increased power plus widened wheels to transfer the higher power to the ground, and brakes to stop and you have invested quite a large sum.

Maybe as a first step in adding the above listed components, even in stages, would warrant this short block investment.

You asked for pro's and con's, if all you want is just a new block your not getting much bang for the buck. But if you want 500-600 horse power it would be a wise choice.

Is this where your going?

The block should drop right into the chassis, as blkZooM states.

Good wishes,

^^^^ This is a very helpful post for various reasons. My main goal with the initial post is learning and perhaps promoting some discussion on the possibilities for this option on a MM. My long term vision is to keep the Marauder for many years and to be able to increase HP as time and resources permit. HP north of 500HP is definitely something I look forward to. This short block may be a good foundation for future upgrades, though perhaps an expensive one to start with (?).

In my current situation, I would love to get a blower installed soon, but my engine has 115K miles. At some point I'll need a new engine. With the possibility of this short block, I could get a blower today and drive the car for many more miles. If and when the engine needs replacing, then I could make the swap to the 5.0, keep the blower, and have even more room for further mods.

Please keep posting. It's all good stuff.

[babbage]

I really like the fact that it's a ford racing short block. Lot's of good guts.
Problem is for N/A 4V -is only – 9.6:1 Compression ratio. Even with the 5.0 you still might be making LESS power than a factory 4.6 @ 10:1 - because of loss of compression and heavier rotating assembly. The reman 4.6 cobra blocks in MM's result in a loss of about 50hp If I remember correctly.

I'd be all over this 46X if there were a way to make it setup for 10.8:1-11.0:1 compression with 4V heads. Decked heads and block = more machine time. Can anyone comment on this?

If you are going S/C then it would be great @9.6:1 i'd think, but then you have to do fuel, trans, and driveline upgrades as well.

[Jeronimojc]

I really like the fact that it's a ford racing short block. Lot's of good guts.
Problem is for N/A 4V -is only – 9.6:1 Compression ratio. Even with the 5.0 you still might be making LESS power than a factory 4.6 @ 10:1 - because of loss of compression and heavier rotating assembly.

If you are going S/C then it would be great @9.6:1 i'd think, but then you have to do fuel, trans, and driveline upgrades as well.

Good input! Thus, it may be better to keep the stock block and upgrade the internals to maintain 10:1 compression even with S/C. The 5.0L may be better for someone with significant HP goals. (??)

[Jeronimojc]

Been doing some reading. I wondered how the 46x 5.0 block compares to rebuilding the Marauder block as a 5.0 stroker with forged internals. I am only learning, but I understand the 46x is a rebuilt GT 2005 to 2010 block. From a rebuilding point of view, it appears there is no difference between these blocks, assuming the end goal is a stroker forged block like the 46x. If true, then we can rebuild the MM block to get a 46x imitation. How the two blocks compare in HP capacity remains an unknown to me, but both blocks seem strong enough to handle more HP than most of us are willing/able to invest in.

The next question in my mind was cost differences. The 46x sells for $5K (possibly less). I don't know what it would cost to rebuild the MM block to a 46x imitation, but the various parts are expensive and then there is the labor and expertise ($). In researching this I came across a very old post from Lidio (below). If the info below can be said to be relevant, then rebuilding the MM block to a 46x imitation may cost almost as much as the 46X (assume inflation).

If so, I would be more inclined to buy the 46x FRPP Aluminator than rebuilding the MM block to a 46X imitation. Certainly, a less expensive MM rebuild could be achieved with less expensive parts and machining / engine building knowledge.

If someone wanted to remain NA, then rebuilding makes more sense than buying the 46x. Compression ratios higher than what the 46x comes with can easily be achieved with flat head pistons.

Bet most of you guys know this stuff already. If you do, then share the knowledge. Aloha!


I say if you want to swing the extra bucks for a stoker during a rebuild or a forged short-block upgrade... go for it. I’m a big fan of stroking the 4.6L’s. I was also big fan of big-boring the 4.6’s too. But a few reason its become more expensive to go big-bore on an aluminum 4.6 block then simply stroking it. The big-boring’s greater cost comes from a more laborsome procedure to install the sleeves in the block its self, and the good sleeves just plain costing more these days from what I’ve seen being driving by demand.

With a stroker kit, you simply replace the crank with a stroker crank and simply buy the matching connecting rods and pistons. When you upgrade to a forged short block on a 4.6L, your going to buy pistons and rods any way. So the only real extra cost is that of the steel stroker crank. When we quote for a typical 4.6L forged short block rebuild, we start at $3400.00 for a fully machined and built up 4.6L forged short block. To stoke it, its about another $1000.00 because the stroker crank cost more and theirs a little bit of grinding required for proper fitment of the stroker crank with in the block. The other reason stroking has become popular is because you cant big-bore the iron 4.6L blocks. Theirs simply not enough room for the big bore liners. When and if these blocks (iron) crack a bore, we simply throw them away and not even consider sleeveing them. Their cheap and plentiful to replace.

Some would lead you to believe that Big-Boring is better then stroking a 4.6L. They both end up at about 305 cubes as opposed to 281 cubes when stock. But big boring unshoourds the chamber and valves where as stroking does not. This may be true and note worthy, but not enough to worry about from what I’ve seen (especially on a boosted street motor) and no matter how you look at it, the old saying holds true no matter what “ theirs no replacement for displacement”.

We’ve also built a couple of Big-Bore Stroker’s amounting to be about 325 cubic inch. But these are much more expensive and I’m still not sure how the blocks will tolerate this with a power adder long term.

Thanks

[Jeronimojc]

Got a quote on the 5.0 Aluminator short block just for kicks. $4,639 shipped! Seems like a solid block for someone wanting serious HP.

[ctrlraven]

Precision re-manufactured aluminum block with silver powdercoat (2005 - 2010 Mustang GT block)
This may be an issue with the motor mounts and fitment of the timing cover.

People with the 2005-2010 Mustangs have issues with fitting the 4.6 from 96-04 into their car with the motor mounts and timing cover fitment.

If you stick with a block that is made for a 96-04 modular Mustang you won't have any issues besides MAYBE knock sensor provision but that's super minor.

[99SVT]

Precision re-manufactured aluminum block with silver powdercoat (2005 - 2010 Mustang GT block)
This may be an issue with the motor mounts and fitment of the timing cover.

People with the 2005-2010 Mustangs have issues with fitting the 4.6 from 96-04 into their car with the motor mounts and timing cover fitment.


Is that engines with iron blocks or the Al blocks? Front timing cover bolt pattern is different Fe > Al. Never heard of any difference in motor mount holes unless the place doing the swap tried to swap 05 mounts into a 96 chassis. If you use the mounts for the chassis your car has, they should swap right across.

[Zack]

Is that engines with iron blocks or the Al blocks? Front timing cover bolt pattern is different Fe > Al. Never heard of any difference in motor mount holes unless the place doing the swap tried to swap 05 mounts into a 96 chassis. If you use the mounts for the chassis your car has, they should swap right across.

I read the 05+ blocks have different hole locations for the motor mounts.

[99SVT]

^^^^ This is a very helpful post for various reasons. My main goal with the initial post is learning and perhaps promoting some discussion on the possibilities for this option on a MM. My long term vision is to keep the Marauder for many years and to be able to increase HP as time and resources permit. HP north of 500HP is definitely something I look forward to. This short block may be a good foundation for future upgrades, though perhaps an expensive one to start with (?).

In my current situation, I would love to get a blower installed soon, but my engine has 115K miles. At some point I'll need a new engine. With the possibility of this short block, I could get a blower today and drive the car for many more miles. If and when the engine needs replacing, then I could make the swap to the 5.0, keep the blower, and have even more room for further mods.

Please keep posting. It's all good stuff.

That is pretty much what I would do and have done in your position.

I put in a trilogy blower and then purchased a 4.6l aluminator for when/if the motor would pop. Eventually, I had a spark plug blow out of the hole and used the excuse to swap the engine and crank up the boost.

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[ctrlraven]

Is that engines with iron blocks or the Al blocks? Front timing cover bolt pattern is different Fe > Al. Never heard of any difference in motor mount holes unless the place doing the swap tried to swap 05 mounts into a 96 chassis. If you use the mounts for the chassis your car has, they should swap right across.

I read the 05+ blocks have different hole locations for the motor mounts.
I was reading on another forum yesterday where several people who used the Boss50 iron block from Ford and were putting it in their 05-10 year Mustang. They had issues with the motor mount hole locations and 3v timing cover fitment on the Boss50 block.

[99SVT]

I read the 05+ blocks have different hole locations for the motor mounts.

Could be, I've tended to steer clear of the 3v stuff. It just doesn't make a lot of sense why they'd change the motor mount location. Does the GT500's block use the older gen mounting holes or did they change those as well?

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[Glenn]

I am amazed at of the amount of forum knowledge that has been lost over the years. You are not effectively spending your money on any combination of NA engine rebuild. You just do not get any reasonable HP/$ spent out of it for our heavy MMs. This has been discussed numerous times in the "olde" days. Put a blower on your hi-mileage engine (as long as it is running good) until it blows then get a rebuilt engine built for a blower NOT NA. You are throwing your money away going for power on a 4.6 NA engine for a MM. Blower (or Turbo if you are a Zack) is the only way to go to get the most HP/$.

[Jeronimojc]

I am amazed at of the amount of forum knowledge that has been lost over the years. You are not effectively spending your money on any combination of NA engine rebuild. You just do not get any reasonable HP/$ spent out of it for our heavy MMs. This has been discussed numerous times in the "olde" days. Put a blower on your hi-mileage engine (as long as it is running good) until it blows then get a rebuilt engine built for a blower NOT NA. You are throwing your money away going for power on a 4.6 NA engine for a MM. Blower (or Turbo if you are a Zack) is the only way to go to get the most HP/$.

I very much appreciate the feedback. Putting a blower is definitely a priority (see post 4). Regarding a future block for when the old engine fails, what in your opinion makes the 46x "not built for a blower"? I for one thought it would be a good fit. 4V – 9.6:1 Compression ratio.

[Glenn]

I very much appreciate the feedback. Putting a blower is definitely a priority (see post 4). Regarding a future block for when the old engine fails, what in your opinion makes the 46x "not built for a blower"? I for one thought it would be a good fit. 4V – 9.6:1 Compression ratio.

I would think doing a new 46x and Blower would be considerably expensive. Put a blower on the OEM 4.6 and enjoy it for half the cost. But, if you have the total cash then go for it.

[Jeronimojc]

I would think doing a new 46x and Blower would be considerably expensive. Put a blower on the OEM 4.6 and enjoy it for half the cost. But, if you have the total cash then go for it.

I think we are saying the same thing. Put a blower on the high mile engine and enjoy it while it lasts. What to do when the engine fails is why I brought the 46X up. When the engine fails, I'll either rebuild the stock engine with forged internals, or I'll install the 46X. Rebuilding the block with the same quality components as the 46x block may be nearly as costly as buying the 46X (see earlier post). I am not there yet, but was interested enough to start researching various options.

[Jeronimojc]

Precision re-manufactured aluminum block with silver powdercoat (2005 - 2010 Mustang GT block)
This may be an issue with the motor mounts and fitment of the timing cover.

People with the 2005-2010 Mustangs have issues with fitting the 4.6 from 96-04 into their car with the motor mounts and timing cover fitment.

If you stick with a block that is made for a 96-04 modular Mustang you won't have any issues besides MAYBE knock sensor provision but that's super minor.

I brought this up to a person in the business. See response below. Not saying they are right. Simply, this is the answer I got.

"Sent a message to my best contact at Ford Racing and he said he wasn't aware
of any issues with timing cover or mounts.

There was a difference between iron and alloy block timing covers but it was
only one bolt hole that was different and plenty of people used the wrong
timing covers and just skipped that bolt, you shouldn't have any issues
since the Marauder was an alloy block to begin with."

[chief455]

I think we are saying the same thing. Put a blower on the high mile engine and enjoy it while it lasts. What to do when the engine fails is why I brought the 46X up. When the engine fails, I'll either rebuild the stock engine with forged internals, or I'll install the 46X. Rebuilding the block with the same quality components as the 46x block may be nearly as costly as buying the 46X (see earlier post). I am not there yet, but was interested enough to start researching various options.
I would do the blower install and enjoy what's left in the stock bottom end.
I'd rebuild with your highest potential boost level in mind to calculate desired static compression ratio. And if pumping less boost, running with the 'lower' compression will have negligable power loss due to compression..you can tune up timing a bit with that lower compression and make near equal power without detonation.
Using a high compression ratio during a ground up build, to make power, in my experience, is putting a short wick on an expensive grenade.
I have been building pump gas short blocks with lower, safe static compression ratio, and recovering power with higher flowing heads, cam selection and tuning.
I had a 9.5:1 motor detonate and burn pistons with stock heads/mild cam on a high power tune.
rebuilt with 8.45:1 by using larger chamber, higher flowing heads, same cam, and was able to tune in more timing without any detonation and similar dyno power results. Difference is, the lower compression build is still going strong. Hope that makes sense.
Don't buiild on the ragged edge in my experience. Build with safety margins and be please with happy power levels and longer lasting engines.

[99SVT]

These 4v heads are much different than traditional 2v's. With lots of low lift flow and better quench characteristics, the detonation threshold is fairly forgiving.

I'm running 14lbs at 8.5:1 with 21 degrees of timing with room for more on 91 octane. For me to have to drop timing significantly I would have to crank the boost up past 17lbs. We ran it up to 24* and there was no real gain or loss in power and no sign of detonation.

After my experience, I would run at least 9.5 compression on an Eaton, especially if you have easy access to better gas.


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[Jeronimojc]

After my experience, I would run at least 9.5 compression on an Eaton, especially if you have easy access to better gas.
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So it seems the 9.6:1 compression ratio is not too bad for boost applications. In fact, Ford Racing supercharged the 46X with 3V heads and a compression ratio of 9.8:1 to what I calculate to be 10psi of boost. I understand Ford Racing is usually conservative with the info they release.

"FRPP Dyno testing results:
3V NA - Ford Racing 3V Ported Heads, Ford Racing Intake and Hot Rod Cams – 440 HP/435 lb. ft. torque
3V SC - Ford Racing 3V Ported Heads, Ford Racing 2.3L Supercharger and Hot Rod Cams – 748 HP/667 lb. ft. torque"

If rebuilding the stock engine, some may feel more comfortable with lower CRs for higher boost. Then again, too much boost generates higher temps...

[Jeronimojc]

I haven't been able to let go of this thought. Was also hoping the price of this aluminator short block had gone down. It did, but not much. The most recent quote I got was $4,599 delivered. Also, I get to keep my old block.

Was also hoping someone more knowledgeable was pursuing this before I did to feel more comfortable with possible mount and timing cover fitment issues. BTW, I think I would be using the 98 cobra timing cover (and a 3-bolt tensioner with a P1SC), if that works.

Does anyone care to weigh in on this block some more? $4,599 seems to be a good price for a stroker forged block no? I don't know that an MMR block would be any better. I don't know that re-building the block and stroking it would be significantly cheaper either.

[MOTOWN]

I haven't been able to let go of this thought. Was also hoping the price of this aluminator short block had gone down. It did, but not much. The most recent quote I got was $4,599 delivered. Also, I get to keep my old block.

Was also hoping someone more knowledgeable was pursuing this before I did to feel more comfortable with possible mount and timing cover fitment issues. BTW, I think I would be using the 98 cobra timing cover (and a 3-bolt tensioner with a PSC-1), if that works.

Does anyone care to weigh in on this block some more? $4,599 seems to be a good price for a stroker forged block no? I don't know that an MMR block would be any better. I don't know that re-building the block and stroking it would be significantly cheaper either.

That would be a great choice if a stroker motor is what you want, definetly go with the 96-99 cobra front cover and a 3 bolt tensoiner you will thank your self later!

[chief455]

I'm throwing this out with no research:
Can we build the original aluminum MM block with a stroker rotating assembly?
In older days, this was the way to go. Get pistion compression, rings etc. to suit your exact build.
Stroker kits out there? Will the MM block be weak for +500rwhp forced induction power/higher rpms?

[lji372]

My timing cover is currently on a 2009 4.6 aluminum shortblock.
Unfortunately it isn't in the car yet......

38576

[chief455]

My timing cover is currently on a 2009 4.6 aluminum shortblock.
Unfortunately it isn't in the car yet......


Looks purdy;)

[lji372]

Looks purdy;)

I'm like a kid in a candy store! adding headers, xpipe, and magnaflows. In the off season I had added a double din with reverse camera, projector headlamps, and rear paint work, with full detail all thanks to limited360.

Oh, and brakes on all 4 corners.

New pvd wheels and tires are on loan to his brother

Then well :bigcry:

It's gonna be like a new car:banana2:

[chief455]

I'm like a kid in a candy store! adding headers, xpipe, and magnaflows. In the off season I had added a double din with reverse camera, projector headlamps, and rear paint work, with full detail all thanks to limited360.

Oh, and brakes on all 4 corners.

New pvd wheels and tires are on loan to his brother

Then well :bigcry:

It's gonna be like a new car:banana2:
We must make the best of cars with blown motors when they are apart:bandit:

[ctrlraven]

I'm throwing this out with no research:
Can we build the original aluminum MM block with a stroker rotating assembly?
In older days, this was the way to go. Get pistion compression, rings etc. to suit your exact build.
Stroker kits out there? Will the MM block be weak for +500rwhp forced induction power/higher rpms?
Yes you can stroke the stock block. The block was never really an issue, it was the stock rotating assembly just couldn't handle over much more than 500+ to the crank.

I had a 5.0 big bore high compression (11.0) setup up to be built with a 5.0 iron frpp iron block but ended up buying another motor that was already built with head work, cams, high compression but stock bore.... for now.

[lji372]

We must make the best of cars with blown motors when they are apart:bandit:

Haha truth!!

And I swore I wasn't gonna make it a money pit :shake:

[Jeronimojc]

I'm throwing this out with no research:
Can we build the original aluminum MM block with a stroker rotating assembly?
In older days, this was the way to go. Get pistion compression, rings etc. to suit your exact build.
Stroker kits out there? Will the MM block be weak for +500rwhp forced induction power/higher rpms?


I know this thread is getting long, but if I understand correctly this is what the quote from Lidio in post #7 was about. If so, the cost back in the day to do this was about $4,400. I don't know how that compares to other shops these days, but if this is realistic, then the Aluminator short block seems very well priced.


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[Spectragod]

My timing cover is currently on a 2009 4.6 aluminum shortblock.
Unfortunately it isn't in the car yet......

38576

You'll probably have to section those Mustang frame rails into your car to get that motor to fit....... because all the mounting holes are in different locations. :rolleyes: :shake:

[Jeronimojc]

You'll probably have to section those Mustang frame rails into your car to get that motor to fit....... because all the mounting holes are in different locations. :rolleyes: :shake:

What is the best way to check mounting points? You are the second person to suggest there may be issues with the mounting holes. I brought this up to Steve Powell with Tasca. Here is what he said:

"Sent a message to my best contact at Ford Racing and he said he wasn't aware of any issues with timing cover or mounts.

There was a difference between iron and alloy block timing covers but it was only one bolt hole that was different and plenty of people used the wrong timing covers and just skipped that bolt, you shouldn't have any issues since the Marauder was an alloy block to begin with."

Thanks!

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[Spectragod]

What is the best way to check mounting points? You are the second person to suggest there may be issues with the mounting holes. I brought this up to Steve Powell with Tasca. Here is what he said:

"Sent a message to my best contact at Ford Racing and he said he wasn't aware of any issues with timing cover or mounts.

There was a difference between iron and alloy block timing covers but it was only one bolt hole that was different and plenty of people used the wrong timing covers and just skipped that bolt, you shouldn't have any issues since the Marauder was an alloy block to begin with."

Thanks!

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If you noticed in my quote, there was a shaking head, there is no difference, iron or aluminum. I only said that because someone told Jerry a iron block from a 09 Mustang wouldn't bolt into his car, oddly enough, it went right in, hmmmmm.

[lji372]

If you noticed in my quote, there was a shaking head, there is no difference, iron or aluminum. I only said that because someone told Jerry a iron block from a 09 Mustang wouldn't bolt into his car, oddly enough, it went right in, hmmmmm.

oops you mean 09 4.6 aluminum block


carry on..............

[Jeronimojc]

It is starting to look more and more like I'll be purchasing this Aluminator short block in the next few weeks. I am hoping to get some pointers from the folks here to avoid rookie errors. After some discussion here and some research, it seems the mounting points should be okay and the 98 cobra timing cover should be okay.

I read somewhere of a few things to consider, but I am not sure I understand the issues. I am referring to issues with the flywheel, pick up tube and oil pan, etc. See quotes below from @RacerX regarding Aluminator engine swaps.

Flywheel - Is it correct that if I go with a Circle D stall converter or similar, I don't need to drill new holes on the flywheel?

Pick up tube and oil pan - What's the problem/conflict with the pick up tube and oil pan?

Oil Pump Upgrade - It seems Ford has been using one oil pump type on some Aluminator engines and another pump type on others. What's the difference?


Yes! If you have the stock torque converter, you need to drill that flexplate! Before he does any more work, you need to swap the oil pan an pickup tube also!!! See my thread here:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71836



It's NOT the center and it IS the periphery that needs the 4 new holes and it WORKS FINE. I hope no one would try to add holes near the center Joe! :) IF you use common sense! I would recommend anyone doing this to have a machine shop do it. If you are in a pinch, it can be done without any problems whatsoever...


http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/579/flywheel.jpg

[Jeronimojc]

Is the problem with the Aluminator pick up tube and oil pan because of a conflict with the Marauder front crossmember?




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[MOTOWN]

Is the problem with the Aluminator pick up tube and oil pan because of a conflict with the Marauder front crossmember?




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My Aluminator came with a Mustang oil pan installed which will not clear a Marauder Xmember , i went with a Moroso aluminum 7qt pan , as for flexplates just get a PRW 8 bolt flexplate part # PRW 1828111.