Turbo vs Centri SC?

[sflrainmaker01]

Are there any pros or cons vs doing a Turbo on a Marauder? I just came across a deal that makes me wonder... Any pics of a Turbo setup on a Marauder? Can I still use my Kooks headers?

[Zack]

If you are even asking these questions you are not ready for a turbo.
It's a challenge of your sanity to build a kit. I'm still changing things one year later to optimize efficiency.
Put an eaton on and be happy

[sflrainmaker01]

Ok. I just saw a seemingly great deal on a "kit" for a 4v motor. Wasn't sure how much fabrication etc goes into one of these. The Turbo and Centri seem to make more sense from a useable power point of view whereas I love the idea (and looks) of the Eaton/Trilogy blower setup. However, it seems harder to manage the power of the roots style blower without always blowing the rear tires up! :burnout:

[lji372]

A. Widened rear wheels help
B. Foot control

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Those "kits" will not work on these cars without extensive and expensive modifications. That is unless you plan a rear-mounted STS turbo kit.

[sflrainmaker01]

Thanks for the replies. Just checking out the options before I lay out the dough for the Eaton Swap stuff!

[Zack]

Look here: http://www.thechicagogarage.com/forum/marauder-tech/126094-marauder-turbo-project-thread.html
Took me 6-8 months to do it. I'm still changing things to work better

[sflrainmaker01]

Look here: http://www.thechicagogarage.com/forum/marauder-tech/126094-marauder-turbo-project-thread.html
Took me 6-8 months to do it. I'm still changing things to work better

Thanks for the post. I appreciate it.:up: Sounds amazing though! Looks like I'll be sticking to the Eaton Swap! :burnout:

[rayjay]

Amazing work Zack. :bows: :up:

[justbob]

However, it seems harder to manage the power of the roots style blower without always blowing the rear tires up! :burnout:

Yup. At 70!!

And exactly what's the problem? Just ride it out. :D



Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Jeronimojc]

Thanks for the post. I appreciate it.:up: Sounds amazing though! Looks like I'll be sticking to the Eaton Swap! :burnout:

How about a simple centri setup instead? Something you can keep on upgrading as resources permit.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=37 600&stc=1&d=1394097565

I am sure others here can help you get the piping.

[sflrainmaker01]

That setup does look clean and simple. How much boost can you run with out the intercooler?

[Zack]

An intercooler and piping would only be $450 more and be way safer.

Non-Intercooled is no good IMHO

You can build a complete Centri Kit for under 3 grand with a used head unit.

[sflrainmaker01]

An intercooler and piping would only be $450 more and be way safer.

Non-Intercooled is no good IMHO

You can build a complete Centri Kit for under 3 grand with a used head unit.

Yeah, I would agree for only $450. What is the preferred Centri head unit? Are there any specific for the Marauder or just look for a head unit for a 4v motor?

[Zack]

Yeah, I would agree for only $450. What is the preferred Centri head unit? Are there any specific for the Marauder or just look for a head unit for a 4v motor?

Get a V3 from Vortech or P1SC or D1SC from Procharger

you need a bracket for a 03-04 Mach 1, or 99-01 Cobra

[sflrainmaker01]

So, basically, it's the bracket and piping that are different for each car. The head units are basically the same?

[Comin' in Hot]

I know for the Vortech S/Cs, the bracket is the same for most head units. It's not until you get to the larger head units that you would need to modify/ change brackets.

As for the head units:

V-1: Have straight cut gears and require oil lines (supply and return).

V-2: Have helical cut gears(quieter) and require oil lines.

V-3: Have helical cut gears and are self-lubricated.

Then there are the different impeller trims: S,Si, SCi, T are the most common street use trim levels.

[Vortech347]

I know for the Vortech S/Cs, the bracket is the same for most head units. It's not until you get to the larger head units that you would need to modify/ change brackets.

As for the head units:

V-1: Have straight cut gears and require oil lines (supply and return).

V-2: Have helical cut gears(quieter) and require oil lines.

V-3: Have helical cut gears and are self-lubricated.

Then there are the different impeller trims: S,Si, SCi, T are the most common street use trim levels.

The V2 and V3 also have slightly higher step up ratio's. I've got an V1 Si on my fox and LOVE IT. The straight cut gears have such a great sound.

[sflrainmaker01]

So, what about this unit?

http://www.cjponyparts.com/vortech-twin-screw-supercharger-black-3300-compressor-tuner-kit-cobra-2003-2004/p/3320020/

Vortech Twin-Screw Supercharger Black 3300 Compressor Tuner Kit Cobra 2003-2004

"Product Description
Vortech Black Finish 3300 Compressor Twin-Screw Supercharger Tuner Kit for 2003-2004 Mustang Cobras.
Features the Lysholm 3300 twin-screw supercharger with a 4.25" driven pulley and new 8-rib drive belt, capable of 800+HP at 25+PSI Boost. Designed for use with the 4.6L 4V engine in the 2003-2004 Mustang Cobra. Fits under the stock hood, but under-hood blanket must be trimmed or removed.

Produces approximately 17-19 psig peak boost when paired with the following combination: OEM engine, including crank pulley and rev-limit. Aftermarket 90mm I.D. MAF housing and matching open element filter (customer supplied). Supplied Vortech throttle body and 4.25" driven pulley.

Included Components and Quality Features:
Billet adapter plate allows for simple attachment to OEM lower manifold. Cast aluminum supercharger air inlet manifold flows as well as competitor's additional-cost "upgraded" units. Relocates air inlet to driver side of the engine to allow air filter to draw fresh air, instead of from the sealed fender compartment on the passenger side. Exclusive high-flow mono-blade throttle body (73% flow increase over OEM throttle body). Extruded aluminum high-flow fuel rails with mounting hardware. -6 ORB ports. Billet aluminum remote-mount IAC manifold with necessary fittings and hose. High-flow, 44.5mm bypass valve provides for increased compressor efficiency and temperature control.

*Tuner kits do NOT include fuel pump, injectors and ECU programmer.
*Customer ECU programming is required.
*Battery relocation is required."
*from Superchargers Online.

I saw this while checking out the Vortech info posted above.

[Comin' in Hot]

you will need a lot to make that work: lower intake, aftercooler, heat exchanger, eaton swap brackets, etc..... and the intake elbow will most likely interfere with the wiper cowl.

[Comin' in Hot]

basically that kit would be used if you were already eaton swapped.

[sflrainmaker01]

you will need a lot to make that work: lower intake, aftercooler, heat exchanger, eaton swap brackets, etc..... and the intake elbow will most likely interfere with the wiper cowl.

So, all I would save is the Drivers side vs passenger side inlet and end up with a HUGE SC that I probably will never take advantage of?

[Comin' in Hot]

I would say its too much blower for a stock engine and it could potentially cost about double the kit cost to get all the needed components to make it work.

[massacre]

An intercooler and piping would only be $450 more and be way safer.

Non-Intercooled is no good IMHO

You can build a complete Centri Kit for under 3 grand with a used head unit.

I completely agree I would never run any kind of boost without some sort of intercooler.
Compressed air gets hotter than people think sometimes.

[massacre]

On the turbo vs centri for me I would go turbo but that is not an easy road to go down. Lots of fabrication and fitting and welding and testing involved.

[justbob]

Been contemplating one or the other myself lately. I think either one would be ideal with the manual. Too many decisions.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Vortech347]

Also, non-intercooled isn't that bad. Works fine on my 500+rwhp that is hot lapped open track.

[Jeronimojc]

Also, non-intercooled isn't that bad. Works fine on my 500+rwhp that is hot lapped open track.

I'd love to see a picture of your non-intercooled setup. It seems intercooled systems may fit those ultimately seeking higher HP than our stock engines can deliver. Non-intercooled may be a fine choice for those with a tighter budget and less ambitious HP goals. Thoughts?

[RubberCtyRauder]

I have non intercooled centri and so does Pat in Louisiana. Pics are the same , jus tthat it does not run piping to the inercooler which is behind the bumper cover and back to the intake..just goes air box to centri to intake. As IAT raise, timing will be cut and less power made. I have plans to add a I/C one day..just that this one was without one and was cheap at the time. I spent the extra to do tires, control arms etc. If one lived ina hot environmnt (although, Pat does) an intercooler will be of great asset. In a cooler, less humid environment it could be not required..Alot depends on the final use of car

[sflrainmaker01]

I'd love to see a picture of your non-intercooled setup. It seems intercooled systems may fit those ultimately seeking higher HP than our stock engines can deliver. Non-intercooled may be a fine choice for those with a tighter budget and less ambitious HP goals. Thoughts?

Also, can't you add something like meth injection for cooler intake temps at some point?

[Vortech347]

I'd love to see a picture of your non-intercooled setup. It seems intercooled systems may fit those ultimately seeking higher HP than our stock engines can deliver. Non-intercooled may be a fine choice for those with a tighter budget and less ambitious HP goals. Thoughts?

Mine is on a foxbody Mustang with a bottom end built for boost.

My dad's car (05 GT) has a factory long block and non-IC Vortech making 12psi with a meth kit. Runs great.

With a stock Marauder long block I wouldn't go higher than 8-10psi. Any higher and you'd want a meth kit on it. Then at those power levels you'd want a better shortblock.