View Full Version : How are you guys wiring and plumbing your nitrous kits?
SIZEMOREMK
03-17-2014, 07:29 PM
I have an old nitrous kit laying around from a project several years ago I'm thinking of using on the MM.
It is the NOS fogger nozzle system, which was adapted from a dry kit, but never got around to using it after that.
I'm thinking of a smaller 75ish shot to help out the paxton a little in the low-mid range.
I am curious exactly how you guys are tying into the fuel, and what safety switches are being utilized.
I am aware of the pressure safety switches for the fuel side, but curious why I see no pressure safety switches for the nitrous side.
I understand that if something happened to the fuel pressure or fuel solenoid, you would want to shut down the system so you don't go lean and pop.
Conversely it would seem that if the nitrous pressure or solenoid malfunctioned, that you would not want all that extra fuel blowing through the intake either???
I see where there are pressure switches for the bottle heaters and such, so why not use one similar for a safety?
I know on bigger or carbed systems a nitrous backfire would be a concern, but is there not such a concern with a smaller shots?
I'm thinking a fuel pressure safety switch, maybe an rpm window switch. I've got an extra solenoid, so I could direct a fogger nozzle towards the I/C for good measure.
I've already got a wideband hooked up, so I should be able to monitor A/F and swap jets to get it dialed in. I also have the option to pull some timing out with my itsx android controlled device.
Thoughts?
whitey
03-17-2014, 07:46 PM
The fuel is delivered from a pump, if the pump stops, the fuel stops. Nitrous is fed through pressure in the tank, nothing mechanical to 'pump' or push it in. Your worst enemy would be a nitrous solenoid stuck open and when you let off of WOT, It keeps releasing no2 into your intake.as for a safety system, i would assume they have some sort of engine management that would know to shut down the engine incase of a extremely lean condition.
guspech750
03-17-2014, 08:00 PM
Maybe Lowbuckmm will chime in. He used to have nitrous and it worked very very well for him.
Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.
DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom
SIZEMOREMK
03-17-2014, 09:12 PM
The fuel is delivered from a pump, if the pump stops, the fuel stops. Nitrous is fed through pressure in the tank, nothing mechanical to 'pump' or push it in. Your worst enemy would be a nitrous solenoid stuck open and when you let off of WOT, It keeps releasing no2 into your intake.as for a safety system, i would assume they have some sort of engine management that would know to shut down the engine incase of a extremely lean condition.
Thanks
I get all that, I was interested in not dumping fuel into the motor if the bottle goes empty or if the nitrous solenoid failed to open, or whatever. Or how big a deal it is on the smaller shot?
I am also curious if tapping the rail is a good idea given that the car is already asking for more fuel due to the blower. I have the GT fuel pump with the BAP, and I was told that the fuel looked just fine with the current setup. I am maxing just over 8lbs of boost and also figure I'll get around to swapping pulleys to get closer to 10-12 lbs of boost before long. So I'm curious if there will be enough fuel pressure left over to run the nitrous from the rail?
I've seen mixed opinions about when dual fuel pumps and other fuel upgrades are required on these cars...
I know on the older return style fuel systems, the pressures were static, so I am also curious how it is going to work out tapping the fuel rail for the fuel solenoid when the the fuel pressure is dynamic? I know NOS sells a kit that taps the fuel rail for the 03/04 cobras??? So do I have to have a custom nitrous tune to compensate for the dynamic pressure for the nitrous fuel supply?
The block is a 9.5:1 MMR 600, so I figure I'll be well within the capability of the engine if I end up at 425ish on motor alone, then add the 75ish shot.
I'm also curious at what RPM should the nitrous be engaged and disengaged via a window switch?
Another question on the fuel pressure safety switch, I would also like to figure a way to put the pressure switch after the fuel solenoid, but of course it wouldn't engage unless the solenoid were already engaged? Maybe plumb it after the solenoid and wire the pressure switch to a simple light, and can assume if the light doesn't shut off (or turn on) at least I have an immediate warning to let off. Or would it be too late by then?
Thanks guys!
RubberCtyRauder
03-17-2014, 09:15 PM
Check with member Pat..he has a vortech with a 75 or 100 shot of nitrous
fastblackmerc
03-18-2014, 08:04 AM
Good references:
http://www.go-fast.org/z28/new_to_nitrous.html
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/oldwebdocs/instructions/stage1.pdf
http://www.sccoa.com/sccoo/Faq/nitrousoxide.htm
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0211gmhtp_installing_running_n itrous_safely/
Much more available. google "How to install nitrous system"
Like this.
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn306/Marauder-Z/100_1376.jpg (http://s307.photobucket.com/user/Marauder-Z/media/100_1376.jpg.html)
jwibbity
03-18-2014, 08:50 AM
Like this.
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn306/Marauder-Z/100_1376.jpg (http://s307.photobucket.com/user/Marauder-Z/media/100_1376.jpg.html)
those aren't subwoofers.....:P
lji372
03-18-2014, 09:13 AM
those aren't subwoofers.....:P
oh yes they are!!:banana2:
SIZEMOREMK;
You asked me to comment, your question below is the only area I have anything to add to the previous posts.
"I'm also curious at what RPM should the nitrous be engaged and disengaged via a window switch?"
The settings window switch turn on and turn off of the nitrous system in my case was dictated by traction.
With street tires, I don 't have drag redials, and a ZEX wet 100 shot, I was losing traction almost all the way down the strip.
So I determined at what RPM I hooked up in first, without nitrous, and set the "on" window for that RPM (which was 3200). Much better performance.
Of course the amount of nitrous applied (even a staged application), coupled with your cars traction capabilities will determine where the window is set. You may not even need a window if drag radials are used.
Good luck,
Pat
camelgrundle
03-18-2014, 10:47 PM
Holy hell zack that is amazing! And so is your photo bucket lol.
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