500 RWHP Parts List

[jwibbity]

ok this is a thread i started last year about getting to 500 RWHP

http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=87923

there's alot of good info but alot of funny :bs: too:D:D
Now that I'm out of the military and actually making some decent money I'm getting my marauder wish list together. As you can see from the title my goal is 500 to the wheels w/ matching or close to torque.

This is by no means a short term goal, probably over the next 1-2 years.....

1. Forged Shortblock (MMR 4.75 or 5.0 stroker)
2. 60# Injectors w/ Modified FPDM and Upgraded Wiring (Would like to stay returnless)
3. Dual Fuel Pump Set Up (Dual Aero 340's)
4. SCT BA2600 MAF (Just saw a mustang pull over 700RWHP with one, thanks CWright!!)
5. Built Rear End(31 spline at least)
6. Rear Wheels Widened to take at least 295's
7. Full Mandrel Bent 2.5" Exhaust from Mandrel Bend Solutions up in Maryland(Magnaflow Hi-FLow Cats, X-Pipe, AT2525XL's)
8. SW Headers
9. Maxed out Eaton (I've read after 15#'s they are pretty ineffecient)
10. 2.3 Whipple or TVS blower if eaton will not get me to 500 ^^
11. Port from Jokerz Ports( if needed)
12. Possible Killer Chiller(once again thanks Chris!!!)
13. Built Trans
14. Nice built driveshaft
15. Metco or Sparts CA's & Watts Link
16. Z&J Big Brake Upgrade

Give me your opinions on what I should change or have missed in my list and I will change accordingly. I would eventually like to reference this list later down the line when it comes down to start buying parts and planning.

Thanks guys!!!(and girls:D)

P.S.: This car will not be a garage queen and will be driven accordingly!

[Zack]

Just remember Cobra shortblocks are now 10-12 years old.
Not the best choice anymore IMHO.

[jwibbity]

Just remember Cobra shortblocks are now 10-12 years old.
Not the best choice anymore IMHO.

I'm not too current on the forged 4.6 engine market, what are some other options?!?

Does that company MMR still make them??

[RubberCtyRauder]

You don't want a locker for street use

[ctrlraven]

I have a Boss50 block and forged rods/pistons for sale.

[slickster]

I have a Boss50 block and forged rods/pistons for sale.

Dam Thats right. Sw headers over kooks if martys doing the work he can get you a discount on them

[Cheeseheadbob]

10. Large limit Credit Card.

[RacerX]

11. Built Transmission... ;)

[Spectragod]

Buy one already built, way cheaper......

[Spectragod]

11. Built Transmission... ;)

And torque converter, and drive shaft, and and and, it never ends.

[99SVT]

If you're sticking with the Eaton and staying in its efficiency range keep the compression up, 9.5:1 or higher. I'm at 450ish w/ 14lbs on an Eaton and 8.5:1 compression. You'll get some free hp with higher compression up to the limits of pump gas, but 500whp will be fine.

Try the 340lph pumps, the GT pumps don't flow as much and costs more these days. I'm running 1 aeromotive stealth and a BAP, with room to spare.

Try to find some takeoff 07-09 gt500 wheels, the offset is perfect and are 9.5" wide to put some 305's on. Might be cheaper that getting stockers widened if you come across a good deal.

Sent from my C6906 using Tapatalk

[jwibbity]

You don't want a locker for street use

Why not?!? I don't know too much about them but I've read they are as strong as it gets for a 8.8 rear


I have a Boss50 block and forged rods/pistons for sale.

Maybe once i get my funds up ill hit you up, If you still have it..


Dam Thats right. Sw headers over kooks if martys doing the work he can get you a discount on them

Yea SW headers seem to be the best bet


10. Large limit Credit Card.

Got the credit card covered 17K Credit Limit :lol:


11. Built Transmission... ;)

That's already being taken care of, hehehehe



Buy one already built, way cheaper......

Yea but it would be easier finacially to save up over time for the parts and not have to drop a lot all at once


And torque converter, and drive shaft, and and and, it never ends.

I have the street/strip converter from BOC....

A nice balanced steel one from somewhere??!


If you're sticking with the Eaton and staying in its efficiency range keep the compression up, 9.5:1 or higher. I'm at 450ish w/ 14lbs on an Eaton and 8.5:1 compression. You'll get some free hp with higher compression up to the limits of pump gas, but 500whp will be fine.

Try the 340lph pumps, the GT pumps don't flow as much and costs more these days. I'm running 1 aeromotive stealth and a BAP, with room to spare.

Try to find some takeoff 07-09 gt500 wheels, the offset is perfect and are 9.5" wide to put some 305's on. Might be cheaper that getting stockers widened if you come across a good deal.

Sent from my C6906 using Tapatalk

Yea that was one thing I was worried about going with a forged engine, most are a lower compression which means i would have to up the boost to compensate for it..

I really dont like the BAP, I would rather have 2 pumps than one with a BAP

Yea I would rather keep the stock wheels and get them widened than buy a different set

[ctrlraven]

Compression Ratio has a few factors, piston top, valve relief in piston top, head gasket thickness and chamber size which depends on cut of the head.

[CWright]

Go 8.5: 1 and Buy a Whipple! :D

[jwibbity]

Go 8.5: 1 and Buy a Whipple! :D

what are the advantages of 8.5:1 versus 10:1 when it comes to forged parts and forced induction?

[CWright]

what are the advantages of 8.5:1 versus 10:1 when it comes to forged parts and forced induction?

Depends on how much boost you want to run. Too much is bad on a 10:1

[MOTOWN]

Depends on how much boost you want to run. Too much is bad on a 10:1

How much is too murch??????:banana:

[jwibbity]

Depends on how much boost you want to run. Too much is bad on a 10:1


How much boost you think I will need at 10:1 to get to 500?!

[CWright]

Depends on how much boost you want to run. Too much is bad on a 10:1


How much is too murch??????:banana:

I know what you're doing! :P


How much boost you think I will need at 10:1 to get to 500?!


If the Eaton is Ported you should be able to make the 500. The lower compression will allow you to run higher boost without detonation. I wanted to make sure I had plenty of room to grow with my engine. My final goal was to get over 600RWHP.

[RubberCtyRauder]

A locker rear end will not differentiate while making turns so both wheels spin at the same revolution. When turning, inside and outside tire rotate differently. A locker is fine for drag strip but in regular driving it will hop and skip on corners

[jwibbity]

A locker rear end will not differentiate while making turns so both wheels spin at the same revolution. When turning, inside and outside tire rotate differently. A locker is fine for drag strip but in regular driving it will hop and skip on corners

Alright updated first post

[Spectragod]

Got the credit card covered 17K Credit Limit :lol:

That's a good starting point.....ask me how I know.;)

[MOTOWN]

A locker rear end will not differentiate while making turns so both wheels spin at the same revolution. When turning, inside and outside tire rotate differently. A locker is fine for drag strip but in regular driving it will hop and skip on corners

Thats not how a Detroit locker works, it unlocks around corners so the wheels can infact turn at different speeds, they are fine on the streets i had a Lenco locker in my Turbo T.

[justbob]

Cobra block here with cams at around 19 PSI and only 461/487.

Keep in mind none of my exhaust was on for the last dyno, I was also running a heavy ass steel driveshaft practically made for a truck, and the fact the little T is creating more heat than power. Soon it will all be dialed in better.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[jwibbity]

Thats not how a Detroit locker works, it unlocks around corners so the wheels can infact turn at different speeds, they are fine on the streets i had a Lenco locker in my Turbo T.

Is the locker pretty much bulletproof as far as 8.8s go?


Cobra block here with cams at around 19 PSI and only 461/487.

Keep in mind none of my exhaust was on for the last dyno, I was also running a heavy ass steel driveshaft practically made for a truck, and the fact the little T is creating more heat than power. Soon it will all be dialed in better.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

Are the mods in your Sig up to date, if not what has changed?

[MOTOWN]

Its a good setup when you want to run a locker on the street, they work well.

[RubberCtyRauder]

http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Automotive/AutomotiveAftermarket/Differentials/PCT_221432

This says 100% lock up....

I guess it does say allows for wheel differentiation.

I guess i was stuck in the head with old locker rears for mudder trucks and such..welding spider gears etc..don;t turn too good.

[Zack]

FYI my old eaton setup had a posi ported blower, 13psi and headers on the stock engine. It made 480/470

[BUCKWHEAT]

w/ 13# boost on ported Trilogyand 10.25:1 with stroker and S/C cams & springs, getting 484 at rear wheels & about that in Torque. Higher compression makes driving around town more responsive. If you go lower compression and big S/C, go for over 500. Either way, you will love it.

[justbob]

Are the mods in your Sig up to date, if not what has changed?


Yes, but like I said, my current tune was done before my complete S.W. system. That alone should gain me some good numbers. I won't lie, when I first went with this set up I was pretty disappointed as I thought my 525 goal was conservative. Lower compression really robs power..

But a number is just that, I only went up about 10 H.P. over my old set up (stock block, auto, 11 PSI) but owning my car for almost 10 years now, I know damn well it's either more than 10 hp or that 6sp and its gearing is really putting it to the pavement because the car is nothing short of an animal.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[jwibbity]

FYI my old eaton setup had a posi ported blower, 13psi and headers on the stock engine. It made 480/470

Since posi closed up shop a couple of years ago, I'm lookin at possibly doing a joker port


w/ 13# boost on ported Trilogyand 10.25:1 with stroker and S/C cams & springs, getting 484 at rear wheels & about that in Torque. Higher compression makes driving around town more responsive. If you go lower compression and big S/C, go for over 500. Either way, you will love it.

I would like to stay higher comp just because I dont want to be pushing the Eaton to its limits with a lower comp, but I know the risks of detonation is higher with the 10:1 versus the 8.5:1


Yes, but like I said, my current tune was done before my complete S.W. system. That alone should gain me some good numbers. I won't lie, when I first went with this set up I was pretty disappointed as I thought my 525 goal was conservative. Lower compression really robs power..

But a number is just that, I only went up about 10 H.P. over my old set up (stock block, auto, 11 PSI) but owning my car for almost 10 years now, I know damn well it's either more than 10 hp or that 6sp and its gearing is really putting it to the pavement because the car is nothing short of an animal.



Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

Aa manual would be nice but I dont have the time nor skill to do it without making it look like garbage, plus sometimes I have a lot of stop and go traffic to and from work so it would get old for me after a while.

But hopefully with the list I should be able to hit at least 500 and leave it be..

[martyo]

FYI my old eaton setup had a posi ported blower, 13psi and headers on the stock engine. It made 480/470

Did it ever make any popping noises at that power level?

[cj7chris]

Did it ever make any popping noises at that power level?

Only once...?

[Vortech347]

Posi is the ****nit. If you can find one of his blowers do it! I love ours. 509rwhp in one Cobra and 497 in the current one.

[Zack]

Did it ever make any popping noises at that power level?

Say whaaaaaaa?

[Zack]

The easiest way to make 500rwhp is to install a T-Trim or D-1 with headers.

I made 520rwhp years ago on a stock engine....couldnt blow it up.

[RacerX]

Posi is the ****nit. If you can find one of his blowers do it! I love ours. 509rwhp in one Cobra and 497 in the current one.
Jokerz can do that. I have a self ported Eaton and am making 516rwhp @ 18psi. 9:1cr, 301cid stroker, FRPP Shorties (soon to change), Crower Stg 2s...

[jwibbity]

Jokerz can do that. I have a self ported Eaton and am making 516rwhp @ 18psi. 9:1cr, 301cid stroker, FRPP Shorties (soon to change), Crower Stg 2s...

What's your effiency on the eaton at 18#'s??


The easiest way to make 500rwhp is to install a T-Trim or D-1 with headers.

I made 520rwhp years ago on a stock engine....couldnt blow it up.

But I dont have the money to drop and change the forced induction set up, would rather stay with the eaton, plus the whine makes my innards giggle :D

[Zack]

The difference between 450 and 500rwhp is barely even noticeable.
Stick with what you have and be happy.
If you want more power, you need a whipple.

[Vortech347]

The difference between 450 and 500rwhp is barely even noticeable.
Stick with what you have and be happy.
If you want more power, you need a whipple.

Unless the guy next to you has 450. :D

You can only go so far with an M112. If its whine you are after track down a KB 2.2. They scream!

[jwibbity]

The difference between 450 and 500rwhp is barely even noticeable.
Stick with what you have and be happy.
If you want more power, you need a whipple.

Yea but im going from 428 to 500, which i think could be felt a little more..

that and im only at 378 for the torque, hoping to up that by close too 100

[RacerX]

[QUOTE=jwibbity;1374394]What's your effiency on the eaton at 18#'s??

Oh, it's very efficient... Ask the pony boys and ricers at the track!

If you're talking about parasitic loss, I don't know. :D

[jwibbity]

I believe with the right setup I can hit 500 on a ported eaton.......and if I decide later down the line to go even higher I'll slap on a whipple....

[MOTOWN]

I believe with the right setup I can hit 500 on a ported eaton.......and if I decide later down the line to go even higher I'll slap on a whipple....

It can be done, and has been, but your going to be pushing that eaton to the very limit to get there!

[RacerX]

Whipple ftmfw! If I wasn't budget constrained, I would have gone Whipple in the first place. ;)

[Zack]

I believe with the right setup I can hit 500 on a ported eaton.......and if I decide later down the line to go even higher I'll slap on a whipple....

As I said before.
I had 13.5psi, a posi ported eaton and headers. Made 480/470

You can add 2-3 degrees of timing in on the dyno and make the number, but it will need to be backed down for the street.

IMHO you are setting a goal that cant be achieved with a stock engine and 93 octane.
Shoot for 475 and be happy. :beer:

[jwibbity]

It can be done, and has been, but your going to be pushing that eaton to the very limit to get there!

Yes but its not like Im going to be autocrossing or taking it to the strip often, Yea i get into it every once and a while driving but nothing for a long sustained time


Whipple ftmfw! If I wasn't budget constrained, I would have gone Whipple in the first place. ;)

Maybe I can max out this credit card and just buy a whipple, :lol:


As I said before.
I had 13.5psi, a posi ported eaton and headers. Made 480/470

You can add 2-3 degrees of timing in on the dyno and make the number, but it will need to be backed down for the street.

IMHO you are setting a goal that cant be achieved with a stock engine and 93 octane.
Shoot for 475 and be happy. :beer:

You think you could have went to say 15#s and made 500 safely or were you already at your limit with that setup?

[Zack]

I remember leaving the dyno with 14 degrees of timing and having to back it down a degree to prevent detonation.
12psi and 13 degrees of timing is the sweet spot.

[jwibbity]

I remember leaving the dyno with 14 degrees of timing and having to back it down a degree to prevent detonation.
12psi and 13 degrees of timing is the sweet spot.

well i'll just have to try it out and see, if i max out the eaton at 475 thats fine, ill just save up for a whipple, and then ill already have the rest of the supporting mods there:banana2:

Now that the eaton is pretty much covered what are you guys opinions on forged 4.6 shortblocks, MMR seems to be the best bet, but I've been on multiple sites that sell "forged" 4.6's all around the same price range 2.5K-3K......???

[MOTOWN]

[QUOTE=jwibbity;1374425]Yes but its not like Im going to be autocrossing or taking it to the strip often, Yea i get into it every once and a while driving but nothing for a long sustained time



I think your missing the point, to get to 500RWHP on an eaton swap its going to be tuned to maximum limit to get you there, you don't have to be autocrossing, or going to the track often, one bad tank of gas, or just normal everyday street driving, and BOOM! I can tell you now that combo will be short lived on the streets.

[jwibbity]

[QUOTE=jwibbity;1374425]Yes but its not like Im going to be autocrossing or taking it to the strip often, Yea i get into it every once and a while driving but nothing for a long sustained time



I think your missing the point, to get to 500RWHP on an eaton swap its going to be tuned to maximum limit to get you there, you don't have to be autocrossing, or going to the track often, one bad tank of gas, or just normal everyday street driving, and BOOM! I can tell you now that combo will be short lived on the streets.

Point is valid and taken, when the time comes ill let Jeff take care of the tuning since I have no idea what I'm doing, :D

[jwibbity]

just found a pretty good article regarding forged 4.6 engines

http://www.stangtv.com/tech-stories/engine/buyers-guide-to-ford-modular-4-6-liter-short-blocks/

[ctrlraven]

More cubes (big bore) will make it easier to make more power.

[jwibbity]

So it looks like the best deal would be to go with a MMR shortblock, seems to be the most options to choose from and best price overall.

[CWright]

So it looks like the best deal would be to go with a MMR shortblock, seems to be the most options to choose from and best price overall.


It's what I have! If I remember correctly another member is looking too. They quit selling what I have 4.6 (900 Shortblock Killer) in the 8.5:1. However, they told him that they had 2 left. I'd call asap if this is what you want.

[jwibbity]

After alot more research on my part and talking to multiple engine builders/sellers the MMR 4.75 stroker is going to be my engine of choice, good for up to 750 hp at the wheels with the forged Manley H-Beam Rods and Pistons with the forged crank, and currently its on sale for $3099(+300 for H-Beams) :banana2::banana2:

might use their 1 year layaway plan?!?!?

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.c om/750SE%20shortblock.htm

[ctrlraven]

After alot more research on my part and talking to multiple engine builders/sellers the MMR 4.75 stroker is going to be my engine of choice, good for up to 750 hp at the wheels with the forged Manley H-Beam Rods and Pistons with the forged crank, and currently its on sale for $3099(+300 for H-Beams) :banana2::banana2:

might use their 1 year layaway plan?!?!?

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.c om/750SE%20shortblock.htm
The 900SE is $3199 WITH H-BEAM rods

MMR 4.75 Stroker Mod 900SE NORM $3749.99 SALE $3199.99

Fits all 96-10 GT's and Cobras/Mach one (2v, 3V and 4V)
(The perfect replacement for your forced induction or NOS GT)
*Brand New Cast Iron Ford Racing Block, torque plate bored & Honed
*New Precision US made 4.75 Forged Stroker crankshaft
*New 4340 5.933 MMR H-beam Rods w/ ARP bolts ( These rods are shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched to bring you the finest H-beam rod available for your 4.6
*New Forged MMR/Manley pistons 3.552 Bore size
*Total Seal file fit rings (precision file fit to your application, nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)
*Clevite Rod and Main bearings
*Ford Racing Oil Pump (installed)
*Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving shortblock available.

1 Year STD Warranty

Since it comes with the oil pump, upgrade and get their hurricane billet oil pump gear.

[jwibbity]

The 900SE is $3199 WITH H-BEAM rods

MMR 4.75 Stroker Mod 900SE NORM $3749.99 SALE $3199.99

Fits all 96-10 GT's and Cobras/Mach one (2v, 3V and 4V)
(The perfect replacement for your forced induction or NOS GT)
*Brand New Cast Iron Ford Racing Block, torque plate bored & Honed
*New Precision US made 4.75 Forged Stroker crankshaft
*New 4340 5.933 MMR H-beam Rods w/ ARP bolts ( These rods are shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched to bring you the finest H-beam rod available for your 4.6
*New Forged MMR/Manley pistons 3.552 Bore size
*Total Seal file fit rings (precision file fit to your application, nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)
*Clevite Rod and Main bearings
*Ford Racing Oil Pump (installed)
*Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving shortblock available.

1 Year STD Warranty

Since it comes with the oil pump, upgrade and get their hurricane billet oil pump gear.

their website says 3399

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.c om/900SE%20Shortblock.htm

[ctrlraven]

their website says 3399

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.c om/900SE%20Shortblock.htm

You have to know where to look :burnout:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?990290-Forged-Shortblocks-for-all-03-04-COBRA-The-MMR-2014-Line-up-amp-pricing&highlight=

[jwibbity]

:sweat::sweat::hmmm: :hmmm: :hmmm: :hmmm: :hmmm: hmmmmmmm.....

[MOTOWN]

I wouldnt waste money on a stroker motor, just buy a forged 4.6L and put that extra cash towards a bigger blower!

[ctrlraven]

I wouldnt waste money on a stroker motor, just buy a forged 4.6L and put that extra cash towards a bigger blower!
+1

If you are going to go stroker go at least 5.0.

281 to 289 really makes no power gain.

[jwibbity]

I wouldnt waste money on a stroker motor, just buy a forged 4.6L and put that extra cash towards a bigger blower!

but the prices are so close for a brand new forged 4.6 vs stroked 4.6/5.0/5.1

wont the the extra little bit of cubic inches help with power production?!?

[MOTOWN]

but the prices are so close for a brand new forged 4.6 vs stroked 4.6/5.0/5.1

wont the the extra little bit of cubic inches help with power production?!?

That money would be better spent on a Whipple, or Vortech , or what ever blower has your attention, i have a forged 4.6L with a YSI and made 660rwhp initially , and when im done will be well over 700rwhp , do you think i should have spent extra cash on a stroker/or big bore motor:confused:

Spend your money where you will see the best bang for your buck, and what makes sense to you , but before you do that research and educate your self on the best way for you to achieve your goal.

[ctrlraven]

but the prices are so close for a brand new forged 4.6 vs stroked 4.6/5.0/5.1

wont the the extra little bit of cubic inches help with power production?!?
The extra cubes will help if your compression is up more around 9.5-9.7 compared to 8.5.

[jwibbity]

That money would be better spent on a Whipple, or Vortech , or what ever blower has your attention, i have a forged 4.6L with a YSI and made 660rwhp initially , and when im done will be well over 700rwhp , do you think i should have spent extra cash on a stroker/or big bore motor:confused:

Spend your money where you will see the best bang for your buck, and what makes sense to you , but before you do that research and educate your self on the best way for you to achieve your goal.

thats why I made this thread in the first place so the many people who are past this power level can way in, thanks!!

[jwibbity]

now on to adressing the fuel issue, 500hp at the wheels is doable with a returnless style fuel system??,

only reason I ask is because I would rather not spend the extra money going return style, because I believe my goals can be easily met with slight modifications to the returnless system.

And I would rather avoid using a BAP in any situation, just don't like the idea of them.

[MOTOWN]

now on to adressing the fuel issue, 500hp at the wheels is doable with a returnless style fuel system??,

only reason I ask is because I would rather not spend the extra money going return style, because I believe my goals can be easily met with slight modifications to the returnless system.

And I would rather avoid using a BAP in any situation, just don't like the idea of them.

500rwhp is very doable on a returnless system! lol and without a bap!

[jwibbity]

500rwhp is very doable on a returnless system! lol and without a bap!

well that was easy :beer:

[Jeronimojc]

I tend to agree with Motown and Ctrlraven. IMHO a 4.75L stroker will produce only about 3% more power than your 4.6L, if that. Having said that, I am considering a 5.0 stroker, which is more like a 7% power increase. It isn't that much either. I do intend to supercharge it though. Even then, when you do the $/HP calculation, a stroker does not seem to be a very cost effective power adder. I don't know what MMR's pricing is for either option, but I am thinking the difference is several hundred dollars.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jwibbity]

I tend to agree with Motown and Ctrlraven. IMHO a 4.75L stroker will produce only about 3% more power than your 4.6L, if that. Having said that, I am considering a 5.0 stroker, which is more like a 7% power increase. It isn't that much either. I do intend to supercharge it though. Even then, when you do the $/HP calculation, a stroker does not seem to be a very cost effective power adder. I don't know what MMR's pricing is for either option, but I am thinking it is several hundred dollars.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

yea just saw that they were having a sale and got all excited :D

so unless going to at least a 5.0, strokers are just wasted money....

[jwibbity]

Exhaust.......Check
Fuel.......Check( only thing left is choice of pumps)
Engine.......check (besides choice of comp ratio)
Trans......check (for now)

Only 3 items left are blower type, intake/air delivery, and rear end

As far as blower type, there are only 2 that come to mind TVS or Whipple 2.3, read too many bad things about the KB over on SVTP..

For intake I was thinking of having whichever blower ported along with a single blade accufab with a SCTBA3000

31 spline for the rear is obviously going to be the bare minumum

thoughts....

[Jeronimojc]

yea just saw that they were having a sale and got all excited :D

so unless going to at least a 5.0, strokers are just wasted money....


I understand getting excited about a sale. If the price delta is minor, then why not? If it is significant then save the money for a SC.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ctrlraven]

yea just saw that they were having a sale and got all excited :D

so unless going to at least a 5.0, strokers are just wasted money....
Pretty much.

When I started the quest for my rebuild/replacement I didn't want to stay stock size, I knew I could get at least 330rw + range being NA if I did a big bore (302/5.0) and ran high compression (11:1). I ended up selling that setup to a Cobra owner for his build after I found a build long block with the same setup and more than I wanted to do but stock displacement.

DOOM is making 500+ on stock displacement.

[jwibbity]

I understand getting excited about a sale. If the price delta is minor, then why not? If it is significant then save the money for a SC.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

with the current sale prices, its a 500 dollar difference, without its a 900 difference.

but the stroker comes with forged crankshaft and the high volume ford racing oil pump

[MOTOWN]

Exhaust.......Check
Fuel.......Check( only thing left is choice of pumps)
Engine.......check (besides choice of comp ratio)
Trans......check (for now)

Only 3 items left are blower type, intake/air delivery, and rear end

As far as blower type, there are only 2 that come to mind TVS or Whipple 2.3, read too many bad things about the KB over on SVTP..

For intake I was thinking of having whichever blower ported along with a single blade accufab with a SCTBA3000

31 spline for the rear is obviously going to be the bare minumum

thoughts....



Either blower is a win win! and neither need porting!

[jwibbity]

as far as fitment, will either the 2.3 or the TVS fit under the stock hood!?!?

please say yes....please!!

[Spectragod]

Exhaust.......Check
Fuel.......Check( only thing left is choice of pumps)
Engine.......check (besides choice of comp ratio)
Trans......check (for now)

Only 3 items left are blower type, intake/air delivery, and rear end

As far as blower type, there are only 2 that come to mind TVS or Whipple 2.3, read too many bad things about the KB over on SVTP..

For intake I was thinking of having whichever blower ported along with a single blade accufab with a SCTBA3000

31 spline for the rear is obviously going to be the bare minumum

thoughts....

Thoughts....... your going to want to built the trans, a torque converter, beefed up rear control arms, different drive shaft, sticky rear tires, bigger brakes, long tube headers are a good idea as well.



as far as fitment, will either the 2.3 or the TVS fit under the stock hood!?!?

please say yes....please!!

They'll fit, the 2.3 will for sure....

[MOTOWN]

as far as fitment, will either the 2.3 or the TVS fit under the stock hood!?!?

please say yes....please!!

Yes easily

[jwibbity]

Thoughts....... your going to want to built the trans, a torque converter, beefed up rear control arms, different drive shaft, sticky rear tires, bigger brakes, long tube headers are a good idea as well.




They'll fit, the 2.3 will for sure....

the trans will be beefed up accordingly, suspension and brakes will be on the bottom of the list, exhaust will be sw headers and full 2.5 mandrel exhaust, wheels will also be widened....

[jwibbity]

Updated first post with changes, thanks everybody for your help with coming up with the list