Oil Flow Path

[tbone]

Does the oil travel from the pickup tube in the pan directly to the filter and then on from there?

I want to drill a hole in the pan to install an electrical temp sensor and I'm worried about a few shavings getting in there. I don't want to pull the engine to pull the pan.

[Zack]

Does the oil travel from the pickup tube in the pan directly to the filter and then on from there?

I want to drill a hole in the pan to install an electrical temp sensor and I'm worried about a few shavings getting in there. I don't want to pull the engine to pull the pan.

You would use a series of punches, starting from small to big.
Then you will use a 3/8" npt pipe tap coated in grease and thread the metal you pushed inward with the punches.

Good luck, there is barely any room to do that on the sides.

[Zack]

To answer your question the pick-up tube goes directly to the oil pump, then to the filter.

[Zack]

Monitoring oil temp is not necessary.
Why?
Because its not necessary.

[martyo]

Monitoring oil temp is not necessary.
Why?
Because its not necessary.

I concur with my socially dysfunctional brother from another mother.

[tbone]

I want 3 gauges on the pod and 3 on the center console.

Why?

Because I think it looks cool. A rear spoiler, front spoiler, pedal covers, Marauder badges galore, etc. aren't necessary either but I see plenty of them on our cars. And it compliments my trans temp gauge that would have saved me a lot of money if I had installed it when my trans was first rebuilt. I think the idiot installed the trans tstat wrong, which I would have known right away if I had the temp gauge.

[tbone]

Good luck, there is barely any room to do that on the sides.

Justbob said he did it from the front.

[tbone]

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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbone http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1371628#post1 371628)
Anyone install an oil temp gauge on the pan yet, or any other good places to tap in? Looks the the pan is a pain in the rump to remove. Looking for alternatives...... Thanks.


That's because it can't be removed, even if you jack up the engine as high as you can.

I've drilled and tapped the front of the pan before up to 3/8" I.P. with no issue at all.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[justbob]

Front left to be precise. I didn't use punches, just a couple drill bits and a step bit. I went very slow and used a LOT of grease, then tapped it 3/8" for Brandons turbo drain. Maybe he has pics?




Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

Thanks Bob.

[MO Merc]

Why not just place a tee at the oil pressure sender location ? No holes to drill in pan.

[tbone]

Why not just place a tee at the oil pressure sender location ? No holes to drill in pan.


Good possibility. I bought a real electric oil pressure gauge with sender. I'll look into it. Thanks.

[Joe Walsh]

Use a remote mount oil filter with extra ports.
Plug/thread your oil temperature sensor into that and stay away from drilling into the oil pan.

BTW: You would be surprised at how s-l-o-w-l-y the oil warms up on cold winter days.
On cold mornings....I used to drive it for a few minutes, figure that it was all warmed up based on the coolant temperature gauge, then mash the loud pedal on the freeway entrance ramp.
NOT anymore....:shake:

[tbone]

Use a remote mount oil filter with extra ports.



Any brand recommendations that won't interfere with any of the Eaton swap stuff?

[Joe Walsh]

Any brand recommendations that won't interfere with any of the Eaton swap stuff?

I can't comment on the Eaton swap compatibility, but I used almost all Canton stuff to relocate my oil filter.

The engine block adapter and oil lines shouldn't interfere with anything.

I can shoot some pictures of the set-up this weekend if you want.

[tbone]

That would be great. Thank you!

[Joe Walsh]

OK....Will do.

[Zack]

You can't install the oil temp sender in the front of the pan.

Lol

No oil is there

[Marauderjack]

What's wrong with a port on the Oil Filter adapter??:confused:

That's where I put mine and I agree with Joe.....it takes a long tome for the oil to reach 100*!!:eek:

[justbob]

You can't install the oil temp sender in the front of the pan.

Lol

No oil is there


Lol good call. I honestly wasn't even thinking oil, I saw drill pan and had a flashback..


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

Ok, so I'll go with the oil relocation kit. No biggie. I hate fumbling around down there anyway.

[99SVT]

Just use the oil filter adapter port, there's an unused one right next to the oil pressure sender.

Sent from my C6906 using Tapatalk

[tbone]

Just use the oil filter adapter port, there's an unused one right next to the oil pressure sender.

Sent from my C6906 using Tapatalk

I'll take a look....Thanks! Still waiting for the frozen tundra to thaw out.

[99SVT]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/28/7u3a4avy.jpg

Here's a picture, either tee it off #4 if you switch to a real oil pressure gauge as well, or tap the port directly below it.

It may have the bypass valve and spring inside there, I've never had a reason to take that plug out, maybe someone can enlighten us.

Beats the hell out of tapping the oil pan, and the only difference in reference points is that it's immediately after the pump instead of slightly lower pan temp.

Sent from my C6906 using Tapatalk

[tbone]

I'm installing a real pressure gauge as well.

The pic didn't work. Thanks!

[Joe Walsh]

Remote Oil Filter set-up mounted on driver's side frame rail below air filter assembly.
I used a Dremel tool to cut off the chassis mounting bracket that is tack welded onto the frame in the same location.
(That bracket is used to transport the frame down the production line.)
On the right side, partially hidden is the blue solenoid valve for my Accusump Pre-Luber Tank.

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae326/JoeJWalsh/IMG_5285_zpsd6814557.jpg (http://s984.photobucket.com/user/JoeJWalsh/media/IMG_5285_zpsd6814557.jpg.html)


Here is the block adapter plate complete with a real oil pressure sender and the second, lower port (partially hidden behind the steering rack) has an oil temperature sender mounted in it with yellow wire to the gauge.

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae326/JoeJWalsh/IMG_5274_zps37565d24.jpg (http://s984.photobucket.com/user/JoeJWalsh/media/IMG_5274_zps37565d24.jpg.html)

Oil changes couldn't be easier and cleaner!
(Not sure what the unplugged wiring connection is for....?)

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae326/JoeJWalsh/IMG_5281_zps8e88a55a.jpg (http://s984.photobucket.com/user/JoeJWalsh/media/IMG_5281_zps8e88a55a.jpg.html)

[tbone]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/28/7u3a4avy.jpg

Here's a picture, either tee it off #4 if you switch to a real oil pressure gauge as well, or tap the port directly below it.

It may have the bypass valve and spring inside there, I've never had a reason to take that plug out, maybe someone can enlighten us.

Beats the hell out of tapping the oil pan, and the only difference in reference points is that it's immediately after the pump instead of slightly lower pan temp.

Sent from my C6906 using Tapatalk


I am indeed switching to a real oil pressure sensor. What do you mean by teeing off of #4? Thanks!

[tbone]

Remote Oil Filter set-up mounted on driver's side frame rail below air filter assembly.
I used a Dremel tool to cut off the chassis mounting bracket that is tack welded onto the frame in the same location.
(That bracket is used to transport the frame down the production line.)
On the right side, partially hidden is the blue solenoid valve for my Accusump Pre-Luber Tank.



What brand/model is this? Thanks!

[RF Overlord]

What do you mean by teeing off of #4? Thanks!I think he means when you remove the OEM pressure switch to install the real pressure sender, install a Tee in the port the original switch was in, then connect your new pressure sender and the temp sender to the Tee.

[Zack]

Installing an oil temp sensor in a dead end is not a logical idea, if you are after 'real' readings.

[RF Overlord]

Good point, Zack... :)

[fastblackmerc]

I used the extra port to install a warning light / red LED when oil pressure gets to 5PSI or less.

[tbone]

I think he means when you remove the OEM pressure switch to install the real pressure sender, install a Tee in the port the original switch was in, then connect your new pressure sender and the temp sender to the Tee.

Oh yeah, duh.

[Zack]

Anywhere other than the side of the oil pan or in the line of a remote filter kit will give false temps. Installing in the oil filter adapter will heat soak the sensor from engine heat.

[ctrlraven]

There is no reason to have an oil temp gauge on your MM TRUST ME!

As long as you are using the right weight and have pressure then it's fine.

Oil/Fuel psi and Trans/Water temp are the main gauges you want. Boost and AFR is you running FI.

[tbone]

There is no reason to have an oil temp gauge on your MM TRUST ME!

As long as you are using the right weight and have pressure then it's fine.

Oil/Fuel psi and Trans/Water temp are the main gauges you want. Boost and AFR is you running FI.


I realize that. I just want 3 gauges on the pod and 3 in the console. This is what I came up with. I'll make it work.

[ctrlraven]

I realize that. I just want 3 gauges on the pod and 3 in the console. This is what I came up with. I'll make it work.
Oil psi, Fuel psi, Water temp, Trans temp, Boost and AFR wideband.

[tbone]

A/F, boost, trans temp on the pod. Oil pressure, oil temp and voltmeter on the center console.

Jeez. I was going with fuel psi gauge and I get the "you don't need it" when you have the A/F gauge. I decide to go with oil temp and again I get "you don't need it".
Who needs any of this **** when you boil it all down?

[whitey]

A/F, boost, trans temp on the pod. Oil pressure, oil temp and voltmeter on the center console.

Jeez. I was going with fuel psi gauge and I get the "you don't need it" when you have the A/F gauge. I decide to go with oil temp and again I get "you don't need it".
Who needs any of this **** when you boil it all down?

Maybe you can get one of those nifty gauge clocks, if the other clock ever burns out, you could still tell time....just a thought...., or a compass!

[massacre]

The bypass valve is in the oil pump itself not the filter housing.

The question is where do you want to take the oil temps from?
Some manufacturers of oil/trans coolers advise that you take the temp at it's hottest point which makes total sense.
That usually means putting a tee in the line, like for trans you would want to take the temps from when it leaves the transmission, not the return to the transmission after the fluid has already cooled.
For engine oil, without an external cooler the pan is prop the coolest place which is as it should be. The hottest oil is prob draining down from the heads back into the pan. If you get one of those pyrometers that they sell you can take temps and figure out what is comfortable for you.

[tbone]

Since it's more of a "decoration" than anything, the temp at the pan or by the oil filter will be just fine and dandy with me.

[Joe Walsh]

What brand/model is this? Thanks!

Canton Racing Products:

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=2253

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=2254



Installing an oil temp sensor in a dead end is not a logical idea, if you are after 'real' readings.

Yeah it is a 'dead end', but it is only 3/4" away from rapidly flowing oil, it is an aluminum housing, and I'm sure there is plenty of mixing and heat transfer to the sensor.
You trying to tell me that if you stuck your finger over that port where I mounted the sensor that it would stay nice and cool because it is a dead end?


Anywhere other than the side of the oil pan or in the line of a remote filter kit will give false temps. Installing in the oil filter adapter will heat soak the sensor from engine heat.

The only heat source that really affects that aluminum housing is the oil that is flowing through it.

My oil temperature readings are different and independent of the engine's coolant temperature.
As I've said....on a cold morning the oil temperature takes a lot longer to warm up then the coolant temperature.

[Zack]

^^^ your points are valid :D

[Marauderjack]

Canton Racing Products:

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=2253

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=2254




Yeah it is a 'dead end', but it is only 3/4" away from rapidly flowing oil, it is an aluminum housing, and I'm sure there is plenty of mixing and heat transfer to the sensor.
You trying to tell me that if you stuck your finger over that port where I mounted the sensor that it would stay nice and cool because it is a dead end?



The only heat source that really affects that aluminum housing is the oil that is flowing through it.

My oil temperature readings are different and independent of the engine's coolant temperature.
As I've said....on a cold morning the oil temperature takes a lot longer to warm up then the coolant temperature.


I agree with Mr. Walsh......my oil temperature varies quite a bit driving on a long trip depending on speed and ambient temps but always takes awhile to get to 160* from cold!!:beer:

[tbone]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/28/7u3a4avy.jpg

Here's a picture, either tee it off #4 if you switch to a real oil pressure gauge as well, or tap the port directly below it.

It may have the bypass valve and spring inside there, I've never had a reason to take that plug out, maybe someone can enlighten us.

Beats the hell out of tapping the oil pan, and the only difference in reference points is that it's immediately after the pump instead of slightly lower pan temp.

Sent from my C6906 using Tapatalk


I installed the oil pressure and oil temp sensor tonight. Used the port next to the pressure port for the temp sensor. Found a fitting at the hardware store. Works perfectly. Thank you!
:beer:

[tbone]

Oil psi, Fuel psi, Water temp, Trans temp, Boost and AFR wideband.


The indicated normal oil operating temp using the port is just what it should be.

Here's my gauges on the pillar. Bung to be tig welded to my header collector tomorrow for the sensor.

I wish I had the boost under the A/F gauge but I set this up with my 2 gauge pillar and everything is cut perfectly to length. Doesn't really matter because no one looks at them anyway. ;)

Still trying to decide if I should put a trans tstat back on or not. Never gets over 120 in cold temps and 150 in hot.