1963 Marauder

[Matt34]

Just recently bought a 63 Marauder and am about to start the restoration process, any advice?

[Merrill]

Yes, show us some pictures!!

[RubberCtyRauder]

Pics of project car, please. Don't rush thru your work and it depends how much of a resto you are doing

[White Knuckles]

Have PILES of cash at the ready

[Matt34]

Here are a few I took in my garage

[Matt34]

Im not rich but I got a great deal on the car and plan on spending a few thousand. I know, probably wont be winning any car shows

[White Knuckles]

Looks pretty solid. Know that the car is rare, parts are rarer.

[martyo]

Have PILES of cash at the ready

Like you used to have? :P

[White Knuckles]

Like you used to have? :P

Ha......best to be prepared. There is a point where there is no turning back...just have to grin and bear it.

[Bigdogjim]

Good luck the end result will be well worth it:up:

[kirk]

Just recently bought a 63 Marauder and am about to start the restoration process, any advice?

I have one the same color, and used to have one exactly like yours. Are you restoring it to stock? Restomod? What's your plan?

[Matt34]

Right now I'm working on getting it to start. I can get the engine to turn over but no fire is getting to the spark plugs. I already replaced the coil and took off the distributor cover and the points and rotator look good and so do the spark plug wires so I'm kinda stumped. I think tomorrow I'm gonna get a new distributor cap, rotator, spark plug wires and plugs and see if that will work. The ignition switch in it is bad to so I've already taken that out and ordered a new one so what I'm doing to get power to it is running a piece of copper wire from the positive on the battery to the ignition coil. And no I probably won't do all original for the repairs. I already work 60 hours a week though, what I really need is a good honest mechanic I can pay to help me but haven't found one yet

[White Knuckles]

I see you are in Georgia. It's not too far to bring it to MO's.....they can certainly help you out.

[martyo]

Right now I'm working on getting it to start. I can get the engine to turn over but no fire is getting to the spark plugs. I already replaced the coil and took off the distributor cover and the points and rotator look good and so do the spark plug wires so I'm kinda stumped. I think tomorrow I'm gonna get a new distributor cap, rotator, spark plug wires and plugs and see if that will work. The ignition switch in it is bad to so I've already taken that out and ordered a new one so what I'm doing to get power to it is running a piece of copper wire from the positive on the battery to the ignition coil. And no I probably won't do all original for the repairs. I already work 60 hours a week though, what I really need is a good honest mechanic I can pay to help me but haven't found one yet


I see you are in Georgia. It's not too far to bring it to MO's.....they can certainly help you out.

Matt where do you live?

We are decent mechanics just not terribly honest. Lol.

Now that I hear the way you have it wired I am guessing something is amiss there as well.

[kirk]

Are you aware that it has a newer than 1963 engine in it? Not a big deal. Looks like it's a 390 2V, which is what was likely in it new. Look at your VIN. If the 5th digit is a Y I am correct. If it is a Z it had a 390 4V in it new.

[Matt34]

Yes the fifth character in the VIN is a Y. I live in Hampton right by the Atlanta Motor Speedway. Is the firing order in this engine 1 5 4 2 6 3 7 8 or am I wrong about that too, lol. I couldn't find a Haynes book on this car so I got one on what I thought was the motor in it, a 70's model bronco and ford truck.

[Matt34]

yeah the fifth character is a y

[gdmjoe]

Matt34 ... Is the firing order in this engine 1 5 4 2 6 3 7 8 or am I wrong about that too, lol....
Do a Google search ... [ firing order of ford 390 ]
*There's a LOT of results.
.

[martyo]

Do a Google search ... [ firing order of ford 390 ]
*There's a LOT of results.
.

There are also multiple orders IIRC

[gdmjoe]

martyo - There are also multiple orders IIRC
I think you're thinking of the Windsors - carb'ed vs EFI

The FE blocks are all be the same ... also remember that the distributor turns counter-clockwise.
http://www.gdmjoe.com/engine/ford_firing_orders.jpg
More comprehensive Firing Orders For Ford (http://www.mre-books.com/shopmanuals/firingorder.html) ««« -click-

HINT/TIP: If you want to convert to an electronic distributor, use a rebuilt distributor from a 360CI F-series truck engine (1968-1976).
.

[Matt34]

Thanks for the info man, you're the best

[Matt34]

Just got the new ignition switch installed and it works. Engine turns over, lights and air come on, feeling pretty stoked!!!

[martyo]

Just got the new ignition switch installed and it works. Engine turns over, lights and air come on, feeling pretty stoked!!!

Have you drained the oil yet?

[Matt34]

yeah I drained the oil and replaced the filter when I first got it. Sorry I couldn't give you a call I start work at 6 and can't really use the phone or anything while I'm suppose to be working

[Matt34]

Just got the car running today and me and a buddy drove it around my neighbor hood with no tag or insurance, lol. Runs good, transmission works fine, breaks need some work and the motor seems to be running rich so I'm gonna need to buy a rebuilt carb or new one or rebuild the one I have, any suggestions on what would be the best course action. The carb that's on it now is an autolite but I've been looking at these Holly's. What do you guys think?

[kirk]

Just got the car running today and me and a buddy drove it around my neighbor hood with no tag or insurance, lol. Runs good, transmission works fine, breaks need some work and the motor seems to be running rich so I'm gonna need to buy a rebuilt carb or new one or rebuild the one I have, any suggestions on what would be the best course action. The carb that's on it now is an autolite but I've been looking at these Holly's. What do you guys think?

Excellent progress!

Personally, I like the Autolite carbs. Shouldn't be a big deal to make it work correctly.

[Matt34]

Just found out I need a rebuilt carb but the summit near my house doesn't have one like the one I took off and don't know how long it will take to order it. The one that came off is a two barrel. The ones they have now in stock that will fit the marauder are Edson 4 barrels. Would it be better to wait and try to get something closer to the original or go with the 4 barrel they already have? Any advice?

[kirk]

Just found out I need a rebuilt carb but the summit near my house doesn't have one like the one I took off and don't know how long it will take to order it. The one that came off is a two barrel. The ones they have now in stock that will fit the marauder are Edson 4 barrels. Would it be better to wait and try to get something closer to the original or go with the 4 barrel they already have? Any advice?

Do you have a 4V manifold? It will get you more horsepower. If you're just after a nice driver I'd just put a new 2V on it and save some money.

What do YOU want the end goal to be? That will determine which is the right choise.

[martyo]

Do you have a 4V manifold? It will get you more horsepower. If you're just after a nice driver I'd just put a new 2V on it and save some money.

What do YOU want the end goal to be? That will determine which is the right choise.

Plus the 4V will get better gas mileage.

[Matt34]

It's just a two valve and I went ahead and bought a rebuilt 2 barrel tonight, It cost me about three hundred but looks real similar to the other one. Should I give the company the old one for the core which they pay 90 bucks for or hold on to it?

[Matt34]

The old one is the original one that came with the car when it was built in 63

[kirk]

It's just a two valve and I went ahead and bought a rebuilt 2 barrel tonight, It cost me about three hundred but looks real similar to the other one. Should I give the company the old one for the core which they pay 90 bucks for or hold on to it?

Let us know how it runs.

[Matt34]

will do, thanks for the help

[Matt34]

Car Still running the same after I put the rebuilt carb on it. took it to a shop up the street by my house and on the drive there when we popped the hood to look at the engine it looked like oil was coming through the valve cover from the intake manifold. They've had it now about three days but still haven't heard anything from them. Hoping its not gonna be to bad. Also had a guy call me who owns a company called peach auto auctions wanting to buy the car from me for between three and four thousand but I told him I wasn't ready to sell yet. Any ideas on what it might cost to get that engine right? Transmission seemed to be ok on a positive note...

[martyo]

Car Still running the same after I put the rebuilt carb on it. took it to a shop up the street by my house and on the drive there when we popped the hood to look at the engine it looked like oil was coming through the valve cover from the intake manifold. They've had it now about three days but still haven't heard anything from them. Hoping its not gonna be to bad. Also had a guy call me who owns a company called peach auto auctions wanting to buy the car from me for between three and four thousand but I told him I wasn't ready to sell yet. Any ideas on what it might cost to get that engine right? Transmission seemed to be ok on a positive note...

Not a lot to go by in pricing from your post but the oil issues may not be related to the driveability issues.

Have you looked at the fuel pump? What is the status of ALL of the ignition components? Are the plug wires checked or cracked? Have you run the car in the dark and looked for arcing around the plug wires?

[Matt34]

I have just recently replaced the fuel pump and the plug wires look pretty good though they are not brand new. I have not run the car in the dark to look for any arc, would never even have thought to do that so thanks for the tip. Right now these people up the street have it and have had it for a week and have not even looked at it yet. I'm a little annoyed by that but do understand they are very busy. I sure wish you were closer so I could bring this thing to Mo's. Also worried about what it's gonna cost me to restore it and based on some research I've done that car is only worth about 10 or 11 totally restored. Thanks for your help though and I will keep you guys posted on what's happening and maybe you can help me from getting ripped off, lol.

[Matt34]

Just replaced the ignition switch and ignition where the key goes in itself, cant remember what its called though and I hooked back up the way it was hooked up when I removed it so I'm assuming its right but I really don't know to be honest.

[martyo]

Just replaced the ignition switch and ignition where the key goes in itself, cant remember what its called though and I hooked back up the way it was hooked up when I removed it so I'm assuming its right but I really don't know to be honest.

That's not likely your problem if it's running.

[martyo]

I have just recently replaced the fuel pump and the plug wires look pretty good though they are not brand new. I have not run the car in the dark to look for any arc, would never even have thought to do that so thanks for the tip. Right now these people up the street have it and have had it for a week and have not even looked at it yet. I'm a little annoyed by that but do understand they are very busy. I sure wish you were closer so I could bring this thing to Mo's. Also worried about what it's gonna cost me to restore it and based on some research I've done that car is only worth about 10 or 11 totally restored. Thanks for your help though and I will keep you guys posted on what's happening and maybe you can help me from getting ripped off, lol.

Do the dark test first and report back.

[Matt34]

Will do as soon as I can get my car back from this shop. Think I'm gonna wait and see what they say first then do the dark test and let you know what's going on. Thanks again for all your help.

[Matt34]

I was told the push rods were a little bent and that was the reason for the vibration in the engine when you ran it at a a high speed, they replaced those and the valve cover gaskets...$284 bucks. Should be getting the car back tomorrow, figured I'd give an update

[Matt34]

Got the car back today and it runs like a brand new engine, still a little smoke out of the exhaust but nothing like it was. I'm super stoked. That motor is more powerful than any car I've ever driven. Thought I'd share with you guys. Also, the passenger window is cracked badly and needs to be replaced. It looks like its double paned. Any ideas on where I can order a window like that? Its the flat big square one, not the triangle side window. Thanks again for all the help you guys, I've already found carpet and a headliner and they are not gonna be as much as I thought. Hope all is well and talk to you all later.

[Jeffonebuck]

Got the car back today and it runs like a brand new engine, still a little smoke out of the exhaust but nothing like it was. I'm super stoked. That motor is more powerful than any car I've ever driven. Thought I'd share with you guys. Also, the passenger window is cracked badly and needs to be replaced. It looks like its double paned. Any ideas on where I can order a window like that? Its the flat big square one, not the triangle side window. Thanks again for all the help you guys, I've already found carpet and a headliner and they are not gonna be as much as I thought. Hope all is well and talk to you all later.

Sounds like you have laminated glass in the door now. If the glass is flat and has no curvature and is secured in a channel at the bottom you can make a template and have it tempered (heat treated) or go with a laminated glass. Both could be bought at a local glass shop. Tempered would be best and all the cutting and edging would be done before tempering as you cannot cut it or machine it after the tempering process. When tempered breaks it shatters in a thousand pieces and laminated glass would break as original glass would but it would be held together by the clear lamination material in between layers.


Sent from my Tapatalk using Morris Code

[kirk]

Got the car back today and it runs like a brand new engine, still a little smoke out of the exhaust but nothing like it was. I'm super stoked. That motor is more powerful than any car I've ever driven. Thought I'd share with you guys. Also, the passenger window is cracked badly and needs to be replaced. It looks like its double paned. Any ideas on where I can order a window like that? Its the flat big square one, not the triangle side window. Thanks again for all the help you guys, I've already found carpet and a headliner and they are not gonna be as much as I thought. Hope all is well and talk to you all later.

Glad to hear it's running well.

1963 Galaxie fastback glass will fit and shouldn't be too hard to find.

[Matt34]

Went ahead and ordered window from dear born for the door. I see a couple of screws to take out but other than that how does the door panel come off, are there clips holding it or is it glued on. Never messed with a car this old and not sure how this thing fastens. Got any advice, gonna try to replace the window myself...

Also the trim around the window on the outside edge looks to be glued, I'm assuming you just gently pull that trim off and then glue it back on the new window. Again, hate to keep asking, but any experience there you would be willing to offer?

[kirk]

Went ahead and ordered window from dear born for the door. I see a couple of screws to take out but other than that how does the door panel come off, are there clips holding it or is it glued on. Never messed with a car this old and not sure how this thing fastens. Got any advice, gonna try to replace the window myself...

Also the trim around the window on the outside edge looks to be glued, I'm assuming you just gently pull that trim off and then glue it back on the new window. Again, hate to keep asking, but any experience there you would be willing to offer?

No glue. The door panel has a screw at each end and at the door lights (if apl.). It uses wire spring clips at the front and back edges that snap into holes in the door. The springs slide into holes on the panel board, gripping the board to stay in place. There are 4-5 at each end. I thought I had a drawing of all this, but I can't find one. The bottom just rests in that metal channel.

Take the screws out, then pull or pry the panel away from the door until the springs pop out of the holes.

You will need a door handle tool to pop the retaining spring out of the window cranks. The door release and arm rests are phillips screws.

Lift the door panel while pulling away from the door.

There should be a layer of paper between the panel and the door, stuck to the door with adhesive.

Once you have the door panel and paper off you'll see what kind of access you have to the window parts. Not much.

If my faulty memory serves me right the door trim along the bottom outside of the window is screwed on. It will come off after the glass is out.

[Matt34]

Thanks for the help man, once again you're the best. This weekend I went ahead and took off the air breather and the valve covers and bought some of that airplane paint remover and have got all the paint removed. This week or next weekend I'm gonna go ahead and paint them. I got some high temperature old ford blue paint from auto zone. Thinking also about taking the coolant reservoir off the top after draining it and repainting it like a flat to medium black. When I get done I'll post some pics and you can tell me what you think. Under the valve cover where the push rods are there is a bunch of what looks like oily rust or something. Should I try to vacuum that crap out or what? Also while I have that much apart should I go ahead and take off the carb and paint the intake manifold? The block itself looks rusty as well and want to paint that but don't really know how to remove an engine or lift it or anything. Well thanks again for the help man, I'm gonna have to order one of those door handle tools, I saw one on the Dearborn website but was hoping I could get it off another way but that's ok. Well thanks again and hope everyone has a good week. Ttyl.

[kirk]

Under the valve cover where the push rods are there is a bunch of what looks like oily rust or something. Should I try to vacuum that crap out or what?

What color is this stuff? Blackish? How much is there?

I assume it's just sludge. If so, I'm not sure I would clean it out because the rest of the engine likely looks the same. If you dislodge a lot and it gets down in the oil pan it might plug up your pickup tube. Lots of sludge typically calls for a rebuild to clean it all out.

If it runs well just drive it and keep your oil changed.

[Matt34]

yeah man it isn't really a lot and I talked to another buddy of mine and he said the same thing so I'm not gonna worry about it. Got the valve covers and breather painted today and they look good but the can says it takes seven days for the paint to completely set up, that was surprising to me. I got the open parts covered with paper towels to keep crap out of them and guess they will be alright while these things cure. Well thanks again for the help man, I got a universal door panel tool ordered and I'm hoping that will get the door handle spring you are talking about off but I have never done it before so not real sure how but will figure it out. Thanks again for the help, talk to you soon

[RubberCtyRauder]

This how the window crank and similiar is generally held on older cars..sort of this flared out 'U" shaped clip..The tool once aligned up will allow to push it inthe opposite direction and release.

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu92/mdnos/crankclip_zpsa34b3806.jpg

[Matt34]

Awesome man thanks for the info that helps a lot. Hey I have another stupid question, today I took off the coolant reservoir and stripped it and repainted it and also took out the thermostat and bought a new one because the temperature gauge in the car isn't working. Now I cant remember how it goes back in. I know the spring side goes in first into the housing it sits in and then you put on the gasket and attach the whole thing back to the manifold but does it matter how the thermostat sits in the housing, like what direction to turn it. I see there is a small pin like thing in the new one that was not in the old one, there was just a small hole. I also see on the housing cast there is a small notch on one side between the bolt holes, do you line that small hole with the pin like thing in it with that notch or does it matter or what? If you could tell me it would be much appreciated because I plan to put everything back together tomorrow when I get off work. Thanks in advance if you can. Hope everyone is doing well and will be back on soon with some pics of my handy work.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Sorry, I'm not sure about your Tstat..becasue in todays Maraduers..well the 2003-04 ones it is possible to put them in upside down and they won;t work properly...Just an idea for future tear downs..snap a couple pics during tear down with your cell phone.

[kirk]

Put it in with the spring towards the engine and the pointed bridge toward the radiator/tank.

[Matt34]

yeah online they say to put thermostats in the opposite way they go in my car, with the spring down inside the housing facing the radiator which is the way it was when I took it out. Found out today the hard way that wasn't the right way, lol. Any how had some extra gasket material and a drawing of the gasket in case I screwed it up the first time so I took it back off, re-cleaned it, made another and put it back on spring facing the motor. Giving the silicon a little more time to set up but about to go refill with coolant and try again. Wish me luck, lol. Thanks again for the help, be in touch soon

[Matt34]

well replaced the thermostat and it is working, the engine is getting coolant but the temp gauge in the dash still doesn't seem to be working. The ALT gauge and oil pressure gauge work but the temp doesn't and the gas gauge doesn't either. Any ideas on how to fix the temperature gauge in the dash? I've ordered a shop manual for the car from Dearborn and it should be here tomorrow or the next day, maybe I can find some answers in there. It does seem to be running good though, still a little smoky out of the exhaust though. I'll post a pic later tonight if anyone is interested. Have great night everyone.:help:

[kirk]

Great job on the thermostat, even if it was painful. Always a great feeling when they're running.

It's either the gauge or the sender (likely the sender). Not sure sitting here how to troubleshoot them. My gauge works quite well. Bottom of the normal bar = 160, middle = 180, and 195 puts it new the top. (tested them all)

[martyo]

Great job on the thermostat, even if it was painful. Always a great feeling when they're running.

It's either the gauge or the sender (likely the sender). Not sure sitting here how to troubleshoot them. My gauge works quite well. Bottom of the normal bar = 160, middle = 180, and 195 puts it new the top. (tested them all)


For the gas gauge, go back to the sender and disconnect it. Ground it and see if there is any movement on the gauge (remember, key must be on). In a lot of these cars, the sender float rots, floods, and sinks. I may have a float in stock if you need one.

For the temp sender it is pretty much the same process. Find the lead to the sender and ground it and watch for movement on the gauge. This will help you see if the sender is bad - that is where my money is on both gauges. If it is bad, get a new sender -- it is an day fix.

Good luck. And have patience my young Padawan.

[Matt34]

Lol I'm still learning patience. Right now I have this window and I got the panel off without beating it up too bad and it looks as though someone tried to fix it before but gave up I guess. They did manage to break off what looks like one of two small support brackets that are either welded or brazed to the bottom part of what supports the glass and raises the window up and down. This is the first time I've ever seen the inside of a door like this and there is a lot less room to work and a lot more complicated than I anticipated. The mechanism that locks the door from the inside is also broken or detached or something. Since the glass is already cracked pretty bad I think I'm just gonna smash it out with a hammer and then pick out all the pieces that are left and go from there, lol. Talk to you guys later.

[kirk]

Lol I'm still learning patience.

Since the glass is already cracked pretty bad I think I'm just gonna smash it out with a hammer and then pick out all the pieces that are left and go from there, lol.

Noooo

Don't give up on that patience thing already. Practice makes perfect and you never know when you'll have to take a good one out.

Hang in there man.

[Matt34]

FML!!! I got the window out in one piece but found that the bottom support that holds the glass is rusted and falling apart. The part I found in the bottom of the door wasn't broken off, it rusted off apparently. It isn't so bad that it might can be lightly buffed and hopefully tacked in two or three places and then grinded so that it will hold because I would have no idea where to find another one. Gonna have to wait till Tuesday when I go back to work to use a welder cause I don't own one myself. Not suppose to work on personal things with company resources either so don't tell anyone, lol. Also the round spring thing inside the door handle that makes it come back down when you pull it up to open the door is broken also and don't have a clue where to get one of those or how I'm gonna get thing apart and then back together because it looks like it has been pressed or something to hold it together. Does anyone sell complete door kits like the ones in these cars and if so who? Also there was no paper between the panel and door but some clear plastic and it only had about 4 of those springs holding the panel to the door so someone else has been messing with this thing. I don't think I'm gonna be taking anything else apart on this car anytime soon, trying to fix one problem and find about 10 more. That's how it goes though I guess. Alright then, thanks for encouragement, I appreciate it. And whenever I get back around to the gas tank I will contact Mo's about buying that part if I need it. ttyl

[kirk]

Here is the glass http://www.dearbornclassics.com/door-window-glass-2-door-hardtop-fastback-convertible-galaxie-full-size-mercury-1963-64.html

but it doesn't include the parts you need the most.

I would try some desert junk yards on the web. I'll see what else I can find.

[Matt34]

Thanks kirk, it isn't as bad as I made it out to be. I got the attachment the window slides down into and also that the rollers go inside fixed today at a friends house. Gonna try to go ahead and fit the window back in the chrome molding on top and and in thing we worked on today and get it hooked back up and see what happens. The shop manual I ordered form Dearborn came today and I've read to fix or replace the locking mechanism you don't have to remove the window. I've already spent a couple hours reading some of that manual and it is going to help out a lot. I appreciate your help though man, one of these day you should send me ur address and I'll mail you a gift card to go out to eat or something for all your trouble. Do they have Red Lobsters in Michigan, never been there. Anyhow thanks again and will talk to you soon. Please don't go to any more trouble for me, I think I got it...maybe, lol. Ttyl

[kirk]

No reward needed. Like many others, I'm on this site to get help and give the same where I can. I've been working on Marauders for 33 years now. That doesn't make me an expert, but if I can use some of that experience to help others, all the better.

[Matt34]

well your a good man, I appreciate it. Today finally got the head lights working and the window put back in and it looks pretty good if I do say so myself. I still need to adjust it a little because it doesn't quite meet flush with the back when you close the door but its not much. I used double sided high strength auto molding tape to fasten the molding on the bottom and two sides with chrome trim. Hope that was the right thing to do because no one at the part store could tell me anything. I don't know how some of these people get these jobs at auto part stores when they know absolutely nothing tools or cars or anything it seems like. went ahead and pulled out the headliner today also because it was just hanging there and when you drive the car insulation blows around everywhere. Still can't fix temp gauge. Where exactly is the sending unit for the temp gauge and what does it look like? And when you say ground it do you mean like just hook it to something on the block or manifold or something? I'm assuming its under the hood but don't really know. Also the headlights work now both high and low but none of the dash bulbs will come on. The dome light works and so do the two small lights in the back but no dash lights, cant figure that one out either. Checked every fuse for continuity and they are all good so I'm stumped. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Talk to you guys later.

[martyo]

If I recall correctly the temperature sender is directly behind distributor on the intake. If I am wrong I am sure Kirk will confirm its location.

And yes to begin testing this circuit ground remove the lead from the top of the sender and ground it to something like the block.

As far as the dash lights, in my experience, the number one culprit is the headlight switch. Have you inspected that? Also have you pulled a bulb and inspected it?

Report back on your findings.

[kirk]

If I recall correctly the temperature sender is directly behind distributor on the intake. If I am wrong I am sure Kirk will confirm its location.

And yes to begin testing this circuit ground remove the lead from the top of the sender and ground it to something like the block.

As far as the dash lights, in my experience, the number one culprit is the headlight switch. Have you inspected that? Also have you pulled a bulb and inspected it?

Report back on your findings.

I agree with all of this.

[Matt34]

yes I have pulled a couple bulbs and checked continuity and they have it which to mean means the bulb is good, at least the one I checked. I could just pull them all and replace them seeing as they are not that expensive and see if that's it and yeas also the switch in the light looks very old but when turned on the two metal pieces made contact so I do not know. Also I did something really stupid and hooked up a black wire that looked like it went to this connection on the left side of the steering wheel underneath. The connection has a two wire going to one side contact and wire going to the other side. The under side only has one contact which is where I hooked up the black wire and then screwed it to the dash where it looked like it was suppose to go. When I turned the key to the on position I heard a hissing and a lot of smoke so I turned off the ignition and unplugged the battery. One of the two wire to one contact wires had the coating around it melted off and the wires looked burnt. I then unhooked all that and started the car and took it for a drive and everything was working as before so I know I screwed up something just not quite sure what and I can not find that part in this shop manual I have. Any ideas? Will check into that sender tomorrow when I get off work and report back any news. Thanks guys.

[martyo]

As far as the headlights go, my money is on teh switch being bad.

And just a helpful tip, if you replace one dash bulb, replace them all - the labor is more expensive (whether you are doing it yourself or not), than the bulbs are.

[Matt34]

you guys have come through once again. When I grounded the lead the gauge jumped up so now I know it needs to be replaced. The problem I have now is I don't know the thread size and the part store has no way of gauging it there. They say it is either 1/4 or 1/8. Any ideas on which one it is?

[martyo]

you guys have come through once again. When I grounded the lead the gauge jumped up so now I know it needs to be replaced. The problem I have now is I don't know the thread size and the part store has no way of gauging it there. They say it is either 1/4 or 1/8. Any ideas on which one it is?

Simple. Pull the sender and put a caliper on it.

By the way, I am pretty sure you are using the wrong parts store if the counterman cannot help you find the correct sender. :P

[kirk]

I am pretty sure you are using the wrong parts store if the counterman cannot help you find the correct sender. :P

I gotta second that one. Correct thread will come on the correct part.

[martyo]

I gotta second that one. Correct thread will come on the correct part.

Good parts guys are very hard to come by these days but my guy is top notch and has become a good friend as a result.

[Matt34]

yeah and I didn't think to just measure the threads at first but then realized it has to be 1/4 inch after I did. You guys suggested Dearborn and they do have a lot of parts you cant get else where but they charged me more than double the price plus shipping for the door crank removal tool that I could gave gotten from autozone for 5 bucks. The exact same tool. I guess I could consider it like tuition or something because I really don't know what I'm doing but am learning as I go. As far as Dearborn goes after I called them and the response I got I will never spend another dime with that company. Also I'm pretty sure you guys are getting sick of me asking so many questions so I will give it a rest for a while and try to figure things out myself but will still keep you informed of whats going on if you wanna hear it. This latest electrical screw up really has me worried. Those wires that burned up were connected to what looks like some kind of relay or something, one side says bat for battery I'm assuming and the other says aux. The side that says bat had two wires coming together to one connection, an orange one and a black one. The other side had a yellow one with a stripe. The orange wire on the one side has all the coating melted off it up to about 8 inches. Not sure what to do about that, checked all the fuses and they are not blown so I guess I'm just gonna go up high enough to where the wire is not damaged and cut it and connect a piece to replace what melted. Not even sure what this thing is. I know in the middle it says 12v and 12A below it. Worried though that wire may have fed something critical and running it without knowing and fixing could do serious damage. Oh well, I'll get it figured out. Thanks again for the help guys, anything I can ever do for you please let me know and Marty if you know anyone with a cheap welder for sale let me know and also about that fuel float and what you want for it. If you happen to have an extra door crank spring I'll buy that too because one of those was torn up too when I removed that passenger door. You can email me at matthew.shellem@gmail.com to discuss availability and pricing whenever is convenient for you. Thanks again guys, talk to you soon.:violin:lol

[Matt34]

Well I finally got the right sending unit, it was a 3/8 thread. And put it in tonight and the gauge is working now so thanks once again guys, couldn't have done it without you. I re-read that last post of mine and to me came off a little snarky on my part but didn't mean for it too. You guys have been very helpful to me and I am extremely grateful. Kind of embarrassed to tell you this but will anyway, the reason the headlights wouldn't come on at first is because I didn't have the knob pulled all the way out. Still no dash lights though and have ordered a new headlight switch so gonna replace that when it gets here and see if that fixes it. Also found an interior place here near my house that says If I supply the material they will redo the front seat for like 5 or 6 hundred. Took the car out today and drove it for about an hour and had no problems with it in terms of how it runs so I'm stoked about that. Anyhow hadn't posted anything in a while so thought I'd give you guys an update. Later.

[martyo]

Matt, since you are happy with our advice, can you start breaking up your posts with paragraphs?? MY old eyes feel like they are staring into a wall of text! :D

Glad the sender fixed your issue.

Please report back on the light.

[kirk]

Glad to hear it's road worthy now, at least mostly.

[martyo]

Glad to hear it's road worthy now, at least mostly.

In Georgia, mostly is good enough. We have no safety inspections!!!!

[Matt34]

LOL! Yes sir will do. Still waiting on switch for headlight but have a couple other problems I just recently discovered and was hoping to get some info.

This car I have has power steering and I didn't even know it. However it has never worked and the reservoir where the fluid goes which has always been full when I checked it was empty yesterday. Is it ok to use just type A transmission fluid or do I need to order special Ford fluids.

Also I was going to grease all the ball joints and pretty much everywhere there is a grease fitting on the car. Is it ok to use lithium grease that is red or gold colored or does it matter. I already have high temp gold and red grease and was hoping to use those but can't find a straight answer in the manual, all it gives are Ford spec numbers but no details about what you can substitute.

Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.

[Matt34]

You guys know anything about Bendix power steering?

[kirk]

You guys know anything about Bendix power steering?

Not me. My car doesn't have power steering.

[martyo]

You guys know anything about Bendix power steering?

What's your issue?

[Matt34]

Well apparently this car I have has power steering of some kind though it has not worked since I've owned it. The other day me and a friend took the car out for a drive and when we got back I noticed the reservoir was empty when it was not before. I've looked in this shop book and see that it is a power steering reservoir and that either the pump or steering box is leaking fluid. I think its the pump.

I've talked to a different local mechanic and I'm just gonna take it to him on Monday and let him take a look and hopefully fix it for me. Was gonna try and do it myself but I'm about tired of screwing with the thing.

Thanks anyway for the help though, I do appreciate it. I'll let you know what he says and how much he is going to charge and maybe you can tell me if that is a fair price or what. Thanks again and talk to you soon.

[kirk]

It's always something. I have to take my ignition switch lock to a locksmith today because it's acting up. It never ends, but the fun factor is still very high!

[Matt34]

Well I love getting high so I'll probably keep this car forever in that case, lol...kidding. Hey I have yet another quick questions for the wise men.

I have the gas tank off the car AGAIN and have the sending unit for the gauge out of the tank. I already bought a new float and put it on though the old one was fine just a little dirty.

The whole thing is very rusty but I've cleaned it some and am going to clean it more at work tomorrow in a cabinet sand blaster. As it is now it gets continuity from the threaded contact on the outside to below the metal strip that leads down to the mechanism that holds the float arm and float.

Does that mean the unit is good or is suppose to get continuity all the way to the float or what. Was hoping to find out before putting it all back together and then having to take it down again to replace it.

As always any advice/help will be very much appreciated. Hope all is well with every one and will be back in touch soon. Thanks

[martyo]

Test it with an ohm meter.

[Matt34]

And one more thing, hey Marty what is a decent paint job for this car down here gonna run me...ball park it. Thanks

[martyo]

And one more thing, hey Marty what is a decent paint job for this car down here gonna run me...ball park it. Thanks

I have never seen the car and everyone's decent is different so it is hard to say.

[Matt34]

Test it with an ohm meter.

How do I do that?:stupid:

[Matt34]

Just got the car back and the power steering works awesome and the car is running like a champion. My next project is to get underneath it with a steel bristled brush and putty knife and knock off as much rust as I can.

Then I want to degrease it and hit it with the water hose and then spray paint the entire underside of the car a flat black and maybe use some of that rubberized stuff in the spray paint can for the floor boards.

Any one have any thoughts or ideas they would like to share in that area. As always, any help is GREATLY APPRECIATED. Thanks.

[Marauderjack]

Ospho and Rustoleum are your friends!!:beer:

[martyo]

Ospho and Rustoleum are your friends!!:beer:

We like this for the DIY'er approach:

http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/permatex-80072/?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adword&gclid=CJmNqe3Wtb8CFWrl7AodwxMA AA

http://images.streetsideauto.com/images/bcgh/image/259x192/bcgh-80072-12205.jpg


Just watch for overspray - this stuff is meant to stick through think and thin!!!!

[Marauderjack]

That's fine if ya first stop the oxidation completely.....if not you just cover up a ticking "time bomb" but I'm sure "youse guys" know that!!;)

[martyo]

That's fine if ya first stop the oxidation completely.....if not you just cover up a ticking "time bomb" but I'm sure "youse guys" know that!!;)

Yep!


..................

[Matt34]

That's fine if ya first stop the oxidation completely.....if not you just cover up a ticking "time bomb" but I'm sure "youse guys" know that!!;)

Im confused, but then I do confuse easily unfortunately. So to clean up the under side real good, or as good as can be without taking out the engine and drive line and all that, and then scraping off as much rust as I can and then hitting it with some rustoleum and that undercoating stuff is the way to go or no???


Also just got finished removing what looked like a stucco material from the trunk because it was already loose and found rust underneath. So Im gonna do the same with that area, probably use the rubber spray stuff mostly though. Good Idea or is there a better way?

And thanks again Marty for all your guidance, it is greatly appreciated. :bows:

[Matt34]

Oh and where can I find vinyl like the original vinyl that came in the car when it was made. The headliner was a light blue with little m's all over it and the seats are two different shades of green with green carpet. I've had some local upholstery people tell me they cant get that viny because its too old and they don't make it any more and want me to go with something different.

Im wondering if changing everything instead of trying to keep it as close to original as possible will diminish its value... Any ideas???

[martyo]

It is not a show car. Pick materials and textures you like.

[kirk]

Im confused, but then I do confuse easily unfortunately. So to clean up the under side real good, or as good as can be without taking out the engine and drive line and all that, and then scraping off as much rust as I can and then hitting it with some rustoleum and that undercoating stuff is the way to go or no???


Also just got finished removing what looked like a stucco material from the trunk because it was already loose and found rust underneath. So Im gonna do the same with that area, probably use the rubber spray stuff mostly though. Good Idea or is there a better way?

And thanks again Marty for all your guidance, it is greatly appreciated. :bows:

If the rust is not eliminated it will continue to spread, even if you cover it up with a coating.

[kirk]

Oh and where can I find vinyl like the original vinyl that came in the car when it was made. The headliner was a light blue with little m's all over it and the seats are two different shades of green with green carpet. I've had some local upholstery people tell me they cant get that viny because its too old and they don't make it any more and want me to go with something different.

Im wondering if changing everything instead of trying to keep it as close to original as possible will diminish its value... Any ideas???

The original vinyl is still available, but I can't tell you at the moment where to get it. Unless you are trying to restore the car to original condition I wouldn't worry about it. Get what makes YOU happy.

[Matt34]

Well I would very much like to restore it mostly to original because the back seat and front and back panels are in good shape. It's just the front seat, headliner, and carpet that need replacing.

If I change the front seat, then I have to do the back seat as well and the door panels and contrary to popular belief (not talking about you guys) I'm not rich. And the back seat is in great shape plus I really do like the original design. Its like to different shades of green and the stitching and patterns are very intricate.

Plus, I think the vinyl that has all those little m's on them for the headliner is bad ass, better than anything I've seen so far.


The paint on the car is what I really don't care for that much, don't really like that shade of blue. I had this Korean guy who does furniture upholstery tell me he would do the front seat for 500 bucks and I also have to pay for the vinyl. All the foam replacement and possible spring replacement is included in that price.

Does that sound like a fair price????

He also told me he would make me a new headliner for 300 bucks and that's just labor not vinyl cost or installation which I know is to high.

Well I guess I've gone and typed you guys ears off again, sorry about that but as usual any advice/ mentorship would be greatly appreciated. Hope to hear from you soon.

(About to leave and go get a high performance alum. manifold and new distributor cap and wires for the car, gonna put a holly 4 barrel on it I've decided, OOH RAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Matt34]

Oh and thank you to kirk for all your help man, You have been a life saver. Thank you and hope to hear back from. Later

[kirk]

I love that color!

It was very popular on the Mercs in '63.

To each his own.

I don't think you're gonna find a Mercury headliner with the little M's. Don't know about the price on that, but the seat sounds high to me. I think my bucket seat was less than $500 including the material, but that's been a while. From the looks of it you should be able to get your seat fixed. Dosen't look that bad except for two spots. Maybe I just can't see it well enough.

[Matt34]

Can anyone tell me how to remove the adjuster for the driver side rear view mirror so I can take the door panel all the way off?

Also, If I wanted to get some press board the same thickness as those door panels and make new ones can I do that or have the panels been through a punch press mold of some kind and are not flat on both sides?

Went to summit and got this rust coat stuff (cant remember what its called) but its milky colored and after cleaning the rusty spots up a little and applying it the spots turn black after it dries. Then you can paint over it if you want. Im assuming the undercoating can go over it as well but the can does not say.

That is sufficient in neutralizing this rust problem Im having in the trunk and under the car where no one ever see's isn't it or no?