Brake pad opinions wanted

[Mr. Man]

Replaced the stock rotors and pads two years agoish and used Frozen Rotors cryo slotted rotors and Hawk pads.

Hating the Hawk pads. They chirp, squeak, stick and don't stop very well. I went with their street pad. Just hate them.

What do you guys like for replacement pads as these Hawks are going to a landfill soon?

[Bluerauder]

Replaced the stock rotors and pads two years agoish and used Frozen Rotors cryo slotted rotors and Hawk pads.

Hating the Hawk pads. They chirp, squeak, stick and don't stop very well. I went with their street pad. Just hate them.

What do you guys like for replacement pads as these Hawks are going to a landfill soon?

My original OEM pads lasted 70K miles before they were replaced. Still had about 10K left on them at the time. No brake dust, no squeal. Still have the original rotors too. I don't argue with what works and replaced the pads with the same Motorcraft OEM pads. They work just fine for an N/A Marauder with just a tune.

[Curless]

Napa Adaptive one...thats what we use here at the shop.

[RF Overlord]

Raybestos Police (http://www.raybestosbrakes.com/magnoliaPublic/home/products/advanced-technology-police-patrol-products.html).

[lifespeed]

Ford semi-metallic seems to be good, although some other quality brands like Raybestos may be good as well.

These cars are big and put a lot of heat in the brakes. IMHO, we need a high-temperature pad approaching track car pad. This way when the rotors get hot they won't transfer pad material, creating high spots and "warped" rotors.

I do not think ceramic pads are at all appropriate for our cars, especially when driven to the car's potential. I don't think they hold up to high temperatures and hard use like a quality semi-metallic does.

FWIW, I have had the same problems on a full TCE Wilwood big brake kit. I special-ordered some high temp pads that will be here in a month, and will post results. So far I have used Wilwood BP10 with no success (about 3 - 4K miles before pulsing) and Porterfield R4S pads (went about 7K miles before needing service). So clearly the pad is important and has an effect.

Edit: to prevent squeaking (some pads just will, and you may have to deal with it if the performance is good otherwise) grease the points where the pad touches the pistons and caliper with caliper grease. Or use an anti-squeak shim. Or both.

[Marauderjack]

My OEM's went 170K miles......tried some ceramics.....couldn't hardly stop!!:eek:

Went back to FORD OEM's.....HAPPY!!:beer:

[Todd TCE]

I've said it before; change your during habits- learn to creep your car or bump it in neutral after hot stops. All the pulsation and warping issues will be gone. Stock or any other brake system.

It seems totally foreign to most stab and steer american driver mentralities... Never to late to teach an old dog new tricks.

Practice what I preach? 130k on original brake pads and rotors on my Titan. No its certainly not all highway either...! Titan owners will say it can't be done.

[lifespeed]

I've said it before; change your during habits- learn to creep your car or bump it in neutral after hot stops. All the pulsation and warping issues will be gone. Stock or any other brake system.

It seems totally foreign to most stab and steer american driver mentralities... Never to late to teach an old dog new tricks.

Practice what I preach? 130k on original brake pads and rotors on my Titan. No its certainly not all highway either...! Titan owners will say it can't be done.

Been there, done that, didn't change a thing. I have done the creeping at a stop light, shifting into neutral, etc. If it were that easy the problem would be solved! You know I don't have any pulsing brake problems on my Ford Focus? Same drivers.

Todd, all I can say is you need to try daily-driving a Marauder.