Front and rear end overhaul.

[Odinson]

Brought the 03 to the shop for some basic stuff and they noticed lower ball joints were going. Frankly the front end has been sloppy lately so it makes sense to me. I'm planning a whole underbody overhaul and want to know if I've missed anything here.

Front


Lower control arms
Upper control arms
Shocks
Shock kit
tie rod ends
sway bar
springs


Back


Shocks
Shock kit
sway bar
control arms kit (upper and lower)
Watts link (skipping for now)


Skipping the rear air bags since they wear differently than the rubber/metal parts.

TIA

[Zack]

It is considerably cheaper to replace the ball joint on the lower control arm than to replace the entire unit.
Amazon has some pretty good prices on those parts, as well as Rock Auto

[fastblackmerc]

Sway bars don't wear out the bushings do.

Upgrade the sway bars, and rear control arms while you are under there.

Addco for the sway bars

Metco for the rear control arms.

Get the greasable sway bar bushings from Energy Suspensions

Sway Bars – Addco
Front – 2196 (1.25” diameter) - Solid
Rear – 650 (1” diameter) – Solid

Greaseable Sway Bar Bushings - Energy Suspensions
Front – 9.5165 or 9.5172
Rear – 9.5161
I'll post a writeup on how to install the rear greasable bushings.

Get greasable sway bar end links for the front
Moog - K80140

Only use synthetic grease

[ctrlraven]

I just picked up the greaseable sway bar bushings from Energy Suspensions, haven't installed them yet.

[lifespeed]

Don't skip the Watts link and use Metco arms to fight tail wag.

[MOTOWN]

It is considerably cheaper to replace the ball joint on the lower control arm than to replace the entire unit.
Amazon has some pretty good prices on those parts, as well as Rock Auto

Totally agree! also i would replace the inner tie rods as well.

[lifespeed]

Need the control arm bushings or it is not a full rebuild. suspension rubber degrades you know!

[MOTOWN]

Need the control arm bushings or it is not a full rebuild. suspension rubber degrades you know!

Yeah so if the bushings are bad replace em, and keep it movin!

[Odinson]

Need the control arm bushings or it is not a full rebuild. suspension rubber degrades you know!

I lost my 66 impala back in the 90s because of this! bushings were long gone. Turns out the pin/bolt holding the control arm does eventually fail with no rubber. :depress:

I was broke back then. Parked it (as best as I could.) Came back 2 days later with a flatbed and it was gone. And no it wasn't the cops.

Planning to do the whole control arm. If Moog ever sends the freaking thing.

[Odinson]

Don't skip the Watts link and use Metco arms to fight tail wag.

Wasn't going to skip it but postpone it. Figured I'd make that part of the rear end project. Checking account running on 'E'

[Odinson]

Totally agree! also i would replace the inner tie rods as well.

I had not thought of that! Never had that fail on a car before. Is that the part with the boot? Lets see if it's hideously expensive.

[Odinson]

Here is the list with the part numbers I picked so far.

Front


Lower control arms

Moog MOG-RK80391

Moog MOG-RK80392


Upper control arms

Proforged 108-10007

Proforged 108-10008



Shocks

KYB 555-603



Shock kit

KYB SM5267



tie rod ends

Proforged 104-10339
Proforged 104-10340



sway bar

Addco ACO-2196



springs

Moog 80668



Inner tie rods. <- Just added, thanks Motown.

Actually Proforged POF-104-10502 : Moog EV455 is on backorder.


Back


Shocks

KYB 555-603


Shock kit

KYB SM5392



sway bar

Addco ACO-650



control arms kit (upper and lower)

Looking at both the Metco and the Heinous. Order these first they seem to always be out of stock.



Watts link (skipping for now probably metco)



Did I miss anything?

[Odinson]

On grease fittings, it seems to me a good sealed design is better than a good zerk/grease-able one.

Natch if it's got the fittings I'll grease them, but why risk adding dirt, blowing seals, etc.

I know people will hate me for even asking. eeeeeeek.

[lifespeed]

On grease fittings, it seems to me a good sealed design is better than a good zerk/grease-able one.

Natch if it's got the fittings I'll grease them, but why risk adding dirt, blowing seals, etc.

I know people will hate me for even asking. eeeeeeek.

I prefer sealed also, where possible. I went with Ford suspension parts as they are sealed and proved themselves pretty well over the years on my car. And greasing all those joints is a PITA. If there were evidence the sealed approach did not work, I would change to greasable. But I don't see that is the case.

If you buy from one of the online dealers like Tasca parts or Silverstatefordparts you may find the prices very competitive with aftermarket.

For the upper control arm, I would try and find a forged unit (not Ford, who now stamps them to save money) for rigidity.

[Mebot]

Sway bars don't wear out the bushings do.

Upgrade the sway bars, and rear control arms while you are under there.

Addco for the sway bars

Metco for the rear control arms.

Get the greasable sway bar bushings from Energy Suspensions

Sway Bars – Addco
Front – 2196 (1.25” diameter) - Solid
Rear – 650 (1” diameter) – Solid

Greaseable Sway Bar Bushings - Energy Suspensions
Front – 9.5165 or 9.5172
Rear – 9.5161
I'll post a writeup on how to install the rear greasable bushings.

Get greasable sway bar end links for the front
Moog - K80140

Only use synthetic grease

Hi sorry for bumping an old thread here but this was the most useful thread I have found with all the required components and part numbers I need for Front End Suspension. A quick questions here FBM:

the Addco Front Sway bar is part number 2196
however I have found a similar product that says it will fit Marauder and part number is 2272

Link here http://www.swaybars.com/SearchResults.asp?Value=maraud er&Method=Keyword&I1.x=0&I1.y=0

Too me it just looks like's it a little bit thicker (1 3/8 vs 1 1/4 on the 2196 sway bar), but wondering if there was any input on the forums

BTW Matt, how easy was it for you do the the front end install? any roadblocks or advice for me? Thanks,

[lifespeed]

the Addco Front Sway bar is part number 2196
however I have found a similar product that says it will fit Marauder and part number is 2272

Link here http://www.swaybars.com/SearchResults.asp?Value=maraud er&Method=Keyword&I1.x=0&I1.y=0

Too me it just looks like's it a little bit thicker (1 3/8 vs 1 1/4 on the 2196 sway bar), but wondering if there was any input on the forums

BTW Matt, how easy was it for you do the the front end install? any roadblocks or advice for me? Thanks,

The thicker one is hollow (tubular) and is 5 lbs lighter. It will lighten your wallet also. Supposedly the spring rate is the same. They also make a tubular rear sway bar.

Most folks on here used the solid bars. I installed the tubular sway bars and they have worked well for me.

[Mebot]

The thicker one is hollow (tubular) and is 5 lbs lighter. It will lighten your wallet also. Supposedly the spring rate is the same. They also make a tubular rear sway bar.

Most folks on here used the solid bars. I installed the tubular sway bars and they have worked well for me.
Thanks for the info! Yes I noticed there was a price discrepancy between the two. Glad you cleared it up