$3,000 for Eaton Swap vs $7,500 for Procharger

[HBTMD]

In researching Supercharger options I have learned that for about $2,000 in parts plus about $1,000 I can get an Eaton swap for my MM. For about $6,500 in parts plus about $1,000 in labor I can get a brand new Procharger setup.

Although the Eaton swap is less than half the price I would be dealing with 10 to 11 year old parts. I have no idea how long they are reliable for.

The Procharger system would be brand new with a state of the art tune included by the Procharger people.

Which would you choose and why? :beer:

[Zack]

Procharger will sell you a box of various pipes which you will have to piece together, and an inefficient intercooler.

You can make your own procharger kit with a used head unit and bracket, treadstone intercooler and pipe kit for under 3k.

[myrodr]

did my eaton 4yrs ago total was $4200 think would be more now as parts re getting harder to get. did labor myself . good luck with your project

[Raleigh Marauder]

It's definitely going to be more than 2k for the Eaton parts. I haven't bought everything yet, but it's likely to end up closer to 4k in parts alone.

[Vortech347]

Using the OEM Ford parts one thing to remember. They were engineered to take a beating... There are OEM Cobra's with 200k+ miles on them running around. I don't know of a Centri head unit that will take that many miles without a rebuild of some kind.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Install and dyno tune will be $1000 to $1500 pending location. Add in a SCT device for $400+ Unless you can install it yourself or with a friend, better plan on adding that much from my experience.

[lji372]

imho roots is more fun


carry on

[Jeronimojc]

Based on these responses, a procharger setup is more affordable. Isn't a centri also easier to upgrade for more boost than a roots?


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[Vortech347]

Based on these responses, a procharger setup is more affordable. Isn't a centri also easier to upgrade for more boost than a roots?


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Just gotta swap head units of either. Sky and wallet is the limit.

Take off the Eaton and throw on a Whipple 2.3 or TVS 2.3 and crank it up.

[loud2004marquis]

I prefer roots with these heavy cars.

[Jeronimojc]

Just gotta swap head units of either. Sky and wallet is the limit.



Take off the Eaton and throw on a Whipple 2.3 or TVS 2.3 and crank it up.


I am just learning myself, but somehow I had it in my head that there is more boost upward flexibility with a centrifugal setup by changing pulley size, tensioner types, belt size (rib), etc before one would even consider swapping heads. Don't know if an Eaton setup has as much boost upgrade flexibility.

It would be interesting to see a current HP per $ comparison since it seems a centri is more affordable.


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[tbone]

I bought nearly everything brand new for my Eaton swap. But even if you bought everything used I think $3000 is wishful thinking.

[chief455]

In researching Supercharger options I have learned that for about $2,000 in parts plus about $1,000 I can get an Eaton swap for my MM. For about $6,500 in parts plus about $1,000 in labor I can get a brand new Procharger setup.

Although the Eaton swap is less than half the price I would be dealing with 10 to 11 year old parts. I have no idea how long they are reliable for.

The Procharger system would be brand new with a state of the art tune included by the Procharger people.

Which would you choose and why? :beer:

Are you putting the forced induction on top of a fresh built, forged motor? Planning on big dollar fuel system upgrades to support the boost? Transmission, convertor, other parts that will not take 500+ rwhp for long?
Planning on headers, exhaust to let the forced air out? $$$$
If you are adding forced induction to your stock, used Marauder engine and driveline - you should start over with a better comparison.

This swap vs Procharger needs to have an end goal before it begins.


It's definitely going to be more than 2k for the Eaton parts. I haven't bought everything yet, but it's likely to end up closer to 4k in parts alone.
I bought mostly quality used Eaton swap parts with some new heat exhanger, coolant pump, fuel pump, etc parts = $4k
The only 'wear' item is the blower, and can be rebuilt, and ported, at low enough cost.
Procharger tune will not be as good as a dyno tune done by one of our board sponsors. Can't be = every car is different.

I have a Procharged car and now the Eaton on my Marauder.
I prefer the street manners of the Eaton on the big car. The centri is fine on my lighter car - but it is not tame, at all. And cost $20k to support the boost, not $5k.
Seriously, start with your power goal and budget. Hopefully they match. Then start comparing ways to meet your goal within budget.
But by all means, do it :D

[lji372]

Don't forget going centrifugal will most likely include a stall converter as well.

Getting more boost at higher speeds just gets you tickets, unless your reserving it for the track. Feeling snappy off the line to the speed limit without stomping the throttle to the floor is well, nice......

What are your goals?

[justbob]

As a roots guy for five years, I might change to centri soon. Can't go wrong either way, I'm just bored.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[lji372]

As a roots guy for five years, I might change to centri soon. Can't go wrong either way, I'm just bored.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

Phh twins for you mister!! :banana2:

[Vortech347]

I am just learning myself, but somehow I had it in my head that there is more boost upward flexibility with a centrifugal setup by changing pulley size, tensioner types, belt size (rib), etc before one would even consider swapping heads. Don't know if an Eaton setup has as much boost upgrade flexibility.

It would be interesting to see a current HP per $ comparison since it seems a centri is more affordable.


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Eatons are done at around 500-520. You can get more from them if you REALLY overspin the **** out of them but usually need E85 and other tricks.

Centri's you can get that even with a Vortech S-trim and a pulley swap. But, without the cubes or high stall converter the Eaton is the way to go on these bigger cars. I rode in Scott's Vortech'd and he's got a stall and 4.10's. If he didn't have the gear + stall it probably wouldn't pull much different first 60-100ft out of the hole.

Eatons are great. You get 8psi of boost at like 2500rpm. Making the engine feel ALOT bigger.

[BigCars4Ever]

I'm going with a centri cause I want to keep as much of the Marauderness of the engine bay intact as I can.

[Zack]

Eatons are great until it gets hot outside...Then they suck.

[Embassy]

If possible, take a ride in Marauders with each forced induction choice. Then, make your mind up which one you would rather have and save accordingly.

[tbone]

As a roots guy for five years, I might change to centri soon. Can't go wrong either way, I'm just bored.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"


Buy another project car, not necessarily a MM, and work on that.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Just put that towards a fast car from the factory. Unless you enjoy the surprise and downtime of sudden issues from modding sheet.

[SIZEMOREMK]

I bought a MM with a Paxton NOVI 1200 SL cooled with an "ice-vex" intercooler a few months back. I had some 4.10s and a dyno tune done by Martyo since I've had it.

I must tell you that around town fun factor was better with my fairly modified 1990 Tbird SC (the eaton M90 on a 3.8 V6). I'd say a semi valid comparison as far as weight goes though tbird was probably a tad lighter.

Personally, the hitting it from a stop or around a corner, for more of a short burst of speed when the mood strikes, I'd highly recommend the roots.

Don't get me wrong, if I get on my hair drier'd MM, it feels strong once it passes 4K RPM or so, but I'm still not used to the wait. By the way its a stock stock converter, so I'm sure a 3-3500 stall would help.

Main difference being that in the roots car I can go WOT for 2-3 seconds and feel the power; in the centri car I need to be on it for 5-6 seconds+ to feel the power, then I'm doing closer to 60 MPH in places that could get you in trouble.

My MM made 424 HP 367 TQ but it "feels" slower in the low end for sure. By comparison, never dyno'd but my guess is that that my V6 Tbird was closer to 325-350 HP 375-400 TQ and felt alot faster in the low end, and it had 3.27 gears and non-locking stockish stall converter.

Also of note, my engine is an MMR 600 shortblock with 9.5 compression, and I'm not really sure how much the lower .5 point of compression has to do with it.

I beleive I might have the only 400+ HP MM around that won't break the tires loose on command.

[Zack]

If you want to beat the snit out of your car over and over and over again, get a D1 Procharger at 10psi with a 4k converter and a treadstone intercooler.
Your IAT's will never go up and it will stay much cooler under the hood.

With the eaton, driving on a hot summer day absolutely kills the power and becomes quite noticeable, even after 1 WOT burst.

[chief455]

If you want to beat the snit out of your car over and over and over again, get a D1 Procharger at 10psi with a 4k converter and a treadstone intercooler.
Your IAT's will never go up and it will stay much cooler under the hood.

With the eaton, driving on a hot summer day absolutely kills the power and becomes quite noticeable, even after 1 WOT burst.
+1

My other car has 10psi with a D1 unit and 3600 stall - I need better IAT cooling, but still it takes a full hit over and over with no slowing down.

My Eaton MM with 3500ish stall will break tires from a roll, and pulls nice up to 6000 rpm, but I agree, the one 85 degree day I had, it lost some umph after 2 blasts - engine temp didn't go up, so I can only guess intake air temp did, and spark probably was retarded as such.

Still - as a street car, not looking for every tenth of ET every time I kick it - the roots is just fine and not disappointing at all.