High Output Alternator

[therealrogers]

Hello All,

I'm a first time poster, but I've done a lot of reading here and I appreciate the forum. Does anyone know of any sources for high output alternators other than DB Electrical?

I ordered one from DB and it came damaged - the pulley was pressed all the way into the housing of the alternator (see pic at bottom). I called them and to their credit they overnighted me another one that arrived the next day. However, when I opened the box it had the same exact problem.

I sent back both alternators, which they received back on Tuesday, May 28 (They've charged my credit card for both and I'm still waiting for a refund). I was finally able to talk to someone at DB today, and now they are saying the owner doesn't want to send me a third one. Essentially they aren't letting me buy one from them because I received two damaged ones. This is the strangest experience I've ever had when trying to do business with any company. Everyone on here seems to have overall positive experiences with DB, but mine has been really odd.

Anyway, my Marauder has been down for two weeks as a result of this debacle, and I still don't have a working alternator. Advance Auto & Autozone both say it will be a week for a normal one, but I'd really like a high output one. Anyone have any suggestions for a high output alternator source other than DB Electrical?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Lee

38547

[Zack]

Tell them you want a non-clutched pulley and have them send one back to you.

[therealrogers]

I would do that, but I'm actually a little wary of doing business with them at this point. The guy I spoke with on the phone actually recommended I start a fresh order in my wife's name, because he doesn't think the company will let him send another alternator to my name. Really weird and making me quite apprehensive to do any more business with them.

If I can't find a different source for a high output alternator I will just get a normal one. I'm exhausted with this process. :(

[ctrlraven]

Are you just in need of a new alternator or have a need for a HO unit?

[therealrogers]

I just need an alternator really, but I wanted an HO unit. I will settle for a standard alternator at this point.

[lifespeed]

Mechman makes an alternator for our cars. I just put one on a couple weeks ago and it works great. It did not come with a clutched pulley, so I get belt squeal when shifting at high RPMs now. I asked about the clutched pulley when ordering and they said they did not like them as they can fail. Well, sure, my stock one was making noise which was one reason I changed it after 113K miles . . . But I would be tempted to try a clutched pully on the HO alternator to get rid of the squeal.

I have not yet connected my deep-cycle battery'd trailer for an abusive battery charging session, so don't know much about the high-output aspect yet.

I too would be leery of doing business with a company who builds an alternator as you've described. How could they have tested it before shipping with the pulley jammed into the case like that?

[therealrogers]

This has been very helpful. At this point I'm leaning away from an HO alternator. It doesn't seem like anyone can quite get it right. DB Electrical has a good reputation on here, but my personal experience wasn't good. Additionally, it seems like those who have bought from there have had to return them within a short time for service.

I saw Mechman's site too, which is a good recommendation, but I don't want to deal with the squealing issue.

At this point, I'm probably just going to order one from Autozone. I like the lifetime warranty. This one cross-referenced with the Motorcraft GL-547:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-93xme?itemIdentifier=34862

Anyone have any feedback on that model? I saw some others on the forum had problems with the alternators Autozone gave them, but with this being a direct cross reference, I think it should be okay.

[therealrogers]

How could they have tested it before shipping with the pulley jammed into the case like that?

Yeah, good question. They insisted that every alternator was tested before shipping. However, I have a hard time believing it. The only reason for the condition they could come up with for the way the alternators were was damage during shipping. But they were well packaged, and I have a hard time believing two alternators showed up identically damaged.

The rep I spoke with hinted at a quality control issue. Apparently they are doing 3x more volume than just a few years ago, but with the same number of employees. Now that's more believable to me than damage during shipping.

[screamn]

I went with Power Bastards. I still have the alternator sitting in my storage but plan on installing it this month or next month.

Might want to give them a try:

http://www.powerbastards.com/products.asp?cat=125978&navsid1=72&navsid2=296

Plus, I got the 0 gauge wiring fuse block kit to assist when I do the big 3 upgrade too.

Mike Savino at Power Bastards was very helpful and answered all my questions before I placed my order.

Another member here posted up on Power Bastards but I forgot his screen name.

[therealrogers]

Yes, I checked them out, too. Their site seemed to be pretty specific to the Marauder, and I almost went with them. I'd love to hear how your experience ends up. May still go that route in a few months.

[screamn]

Yes, I checked them out, too. Their site seemed to be pretty specific to the Marauder, and I almost went with them. I'd love to hear how your experience ends up. May still go that route in a few months.

When I get it installed I'll let you know.

[lifespeed]

Anyone have any feedback on that model? I saw some others on the forum had problems with the alternators Autozone gave them, but with this being a direct cross reference, I think it should be okay.

It has nothing to do with getting the right model and everything to do with the quality of the rebuild. Some guy is pulling apart alternators and scrounging good windings and stators and slapping in new bearings and brushes and trying to make a working unit out of used parts.

I have gone the rebuilt alternator route before and went through three of them before getting a working unit. Luck of the draw, it may work for you. Could be irritating, though. Be sure to check with an accurate digital voltmeter at idle and at 1200 RPM and make sure you don't have a barely-functioning lemon.

[lifespeed]

Plus, I got the 0 gauge wiring fuse block kit to assist when I do the big 3 upgrade too.

Got a link for this part? Is it specific to our cars wiring?

[lifespeed]

I saw Mechman's site too, which is a good recommendation, but I don't want to deal with the squealing issue.

ANY alternator you get with a solid pulley will squeal when the transmission shifts at high RPM. Will your Autozone cheapie have a new, made-in-Germany clutched pulley?

[screamn]

Got a link for this part? Is it specific to our cars wiring?

Here is the link:

http://www.powerbastards.com/products.asp?cat=190

It not specific. Just need to figure out where you will mount fuse block and cut wire which is 6 ft. long.

[MOTOWN]

ANY alternator you get with a solid pulley will squeal when the transmission shifts at high RPM. Will your Autozone cheapie have a new, made-in-Germany clutched pulley?

Simply not true!:bs: i have an 8 rib pulley setup with a solid/clutchless pulley and it does not squeal at all, nor does any other member i know with a solid pulley.

[MOTOWN]

I have a 250amp chrome unit from Qaulity power, no problems/issues so far! http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=133

[therealrogers]

Will your Autozone cheapie have a new, made-in-Germany clutched pulley?

idk, but I will test as you suggest. You seem to have some experience in this area. Do you have a recommendation?

[therealrogers]

I have a 250amp chrome unit from Qaulity power, no problems/issues so far! http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=133
That one looks great! Thanks for the recommendation.

[lifespeed]

Simply not true!:bs: i have an 8 rib pulley setup with a solid/clutchless pulley and it does not squeal at all, nor does any other member i know with a solid pulley.

So, are you telling me my belt chirp did not start when I swapped in an alternator with a solid pulley? Because it did. Don't tell me what my car does, you have no clue.

Or are you trying to argue that a clutched pulley was included for no reason and serves no purpose? Does that make you smarter than the Ford engineers? I doubt you are.

Anybody with half a brain knows what that clutched pulley is for. If you can run without one with your modified supercharger accessory belt setup, good for you. But that has no bearing on the original design.

[therealrogers]

Anybody with half a brain knows what that clutched pulley is for.

I actually have a full brain (I think), and I don't know what a clutched pulley is for, so I appreciate the discussion. Can you enlighten me or point me in a direction to read about it? I'm assuming it has something to do with engaging and disengaging the charging/generating capacity of an alternator, but I'm not sure why (if that's the case).

[lifespeed]

idk, but I will test as you suggest. You seem to have some experience in this area. Do you have a recommendation?

Like I said, I bought a Mechman 260A alternator. It came with a solid pulley, I have a clutched pulley on order from Ford to replace it. I don't know what you'll end up with from Autozone, you'll have to check into that.

Unfortunately, these clutched pulleys do eventually wear out. Mine made it to about 110K and then started making noise. This is probably not a part that you want to get from the lowest bidder. If it fails it can leave you stranded, or make ominous engine noises (what happened to me) that will drive you nuts trying to track down.

I spoke with an alternator rebuilder locally who has been in business for decades. He said he always goes with OEM clutched pulleys in his rebuilds.

[therealrogers]

I spoke with an alternator rebuilder locally who has been in business for decades. He said he always goes with OEM clutched pulleys in his rebuilds.

This is very helpful. If I were to get an HO alternator, would oIe have to go to a rebuilding shop to have this pulley swap done? I'm fairly handy. I removed and cleaned my upper and lower intake last week. I don't understand all the theory yet, but I can generally figure things out and I do most repairs myself.

[MOTOWN]

So, are you telling me my belt chirp did not start when I swapped in an alternator with a solid pulley? Because it did. Don't tell me what my car does, you have no clue.

Or are you trying to argue that a clutched pulley was included for no reason and serves no purpose? Does that make you smarter than the Ford engineers? I doubt you are.

Anybody with half a brain knows what that clutched pulley is for. If you can run without one with your modified supercharger accessory belt setup, good for you. But that has no bearing on the original design.

Your clearly clueless! so all the Trilogy/Eaton swap cars are have chirping alts as well right:confused:

Funny coming form the one guy who has half a brain when it comes to Willwood brakes too huh:confused: get a clue bud! your full of missinformation!

[lifespeed]

Your clearly clueless! so all the Trilogy/Eaton swap cars are have chirping alts as well right:confused:

Funny coming form the one guy who has half a brain when it comes to Willwood brakes too huh:confused: get a clue bud! your full of missinformation!

I didn't say jack about Eaton cars, read much?

Do you have Wilwood brakes on your car, or are you (again) talking about something you have no experience with?

You don't seem too observant, so I'll spell this out real clear for you. If I share something I've learned about these cars, it is from EXPERIENCE. Not speculation or reading some forum on the internet. Everything I've learned about Wilwood brakes, Penske shocks, and even this minor clutched pulley thing I have seen with my own eyes and done myself.

If you don't have Wilwood brakes or Penske shocks then STFU because you don't know what you're talking about.

[MOTOWN]

I didn't say jack about Eaton cars, read much?

Do you have Wilwood brakes on your car, or are you (again) talking about something you have no experience with?

No experience? you really are clueless! i have installed quite a few Willwood brake systems, including several on my own cars, and for other members.

And as i originally stated a solid pulley even in a stock install should not squeak!

[lifespeed]

Your clearly clueless! so all the Trilogy/Eaton swap cars are have chirping alts as well right:confused:

OP is talking about a stock setup, and you jump in with an 8-rib supercharged accessory drive behavior? Lame, off topic, and pointlessly argumentative.

[MOTOWN]

OP is talking about a stock setup, and you jump in with an 8-rib supercharged accessory drive behavior? Lame, off topic, and pointlessly argumentative.

Whats wrong bud:confused: you mad because i called you out on giving out bad/wrong info as you normally do? get your facts straight and i vanish like "Chuckie" LMAO!!!!!!!!!!

[Zack]

If you want a good alternator that will always work, contact Adam at Nations Alternator.

No one ever has a failure with his stuff

[Zack]

http://www.nationsstarteralternator.c om

[lifespeed]

Whats wrong bud:confused: you mad because i called you out on giving out bad/wrong info as you normally do? get your facts straight and i vanish like "Chuckie" LMAO!!!!!!!!!!


And as i originally stated a solid pulley even in a stock install should not squeak!

I only deal in facts, not speculate on what should happen on someone else's car that is different from mine.

Fact: solid pulleys very often will belt chirp and this is why Ford used a clutched pulley - to smooth the accessory drive during shifts.

Fact: Penske shocks ride and handle better than KYB. I've tried both, I should know. Hell, at that price they should!

Fact: Wilwood 14" rotors and FNSL6R caliper combo on the front of a Marauder with either BP10 or R4S pads yield an unacceptably short service life.

Been there, done that, driven it and observed the results. Go speculate all you want, I'll stick with the facts.

[MOTOWN]

I only deal in facts, not speculate on what should happen on someone else's car that is different from mine.

Fact: solid pulleys very often will belt chirp and this is why Ford used a clutched pulley - to smooth the accessory drive during shifts.

Fact: Penske shocks ride and handle better than KYB. I've tried both, I should know. Hell, at that price they should!

Fact: Wilwood 14" rotors and FNSL6R caliper combo on the front of a Marauder with either BP10 or R4S pads yield an unacceptably short service life.

Been there, done that, driven it and observed the results. Go speculate all you want, I'll stick with the facts.

Let it go dude! go have a coke and a smile and STFU:bs:

[therealrogers]

If you want a good alternator that will always work, contact Adam at Nations Alternator.

No one ever has a failure with his stuff

I will check it out, thanks Zack!

[babbage]

I actually have a full brain (I think), and I don't know what a clutched pulley is for, so I appreciate the discussion. Can you enlighten me or point me in a direction to read about it? I'm assuming it has something to do with engaging and disengaging the charging/generating capacity of an alternator, but I'm not sure why (if that's the case).
Since no one explained...

Clutch pulley comes into play when you floor it and spin the motor up to 6000+ rpm, when the gear shift happens the revs drop quickly and at that moment the alternator with it's heavy wound mass is still spinning faster than the crank driven accessory belt - clutch allows the alternator to spin faster than the belt for just a moment, so no belt slip and no noise or chirp.

My old crownvic would chirp the belt on the 1-2 shift, and the 3-4 on "special occasions." It had a regular non-clutch pulley/6G alternator.

I did get a perfect all new 160AMP HD Alternator with clutch pulley from DB Electrical. I get 14.1 Volts at @ 750 idle with an underdriven crank harmonic balancer.

[therealrogers]

Thanks for the explanation! I get it now. One of the reasons I want a higher output alternator is because I will be installing underdrive pulleys as well. Good info – thanks so much.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[babbage]

Thanks for the explanation! I get it now. One of the reasons I want a higher output alternator is because I will be installing underdrive pulleys as well. Good info – thanks so much.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You are welcome! - for Underdrives I went with just (1) March 1158 Fluid Filled SFI Crank dampener. It's smaller (underdriven) and I run that with a Dayco 91" poly-v belt and think the March unit is better than the others.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mch-1158

[MOTOWN]

Since no one explained...

Clutch pulley comes into play when you floor it and spin the motor up to 6000+ rpm, when the gear shift happens the revs drop quickly and at that moment the alternator with it's heavy wound mass is still spinning faster than the crank driven accessory belt - clutch allows the alternator to spin faster than the belt for just a moment, so no belt slip and no noise or chirp.

My old crownvic would chirp the belt on the 1-2 shift, and the 3-4 on "special occasions." It had a regular non-clutch pulley/6G alternator.

I did get a perfect all new 160AMP HD Alternator with clutch pulley from DB Electrical. I get 14.1 Volts at @ 750 idle with an underdriven crank harmonic balancer.

This is just plain wrong, the oem clutched pulley is nothing more than a one way pulley that will "free wheel" when you suddenly lift off the go pedal, nothing more.


You are welcome! - for Underdrives I went with just (1) March 1158 Fluid Filled SFI Crank dampener. It's smaller (underdriven) and I run that with a Dayco 91" poly-v belt and think the March unit is better than the others.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mch-1158

Underdrive pulleys are a complete waste of money, and if you ever decide to S/C your car they must be removed.

[Zack]

^^^^what he said

[babbage]

This is just plain wrong, the oem clutched pulley is nothing more than a one way pulley that will "free wheel" when you suddenly lift off the go pedal, nothing more.

Yep, same thing happens at a high rpm shift... Just like letting off quickly. It "free wheels" and you don't hear the chirp. What I said isn't wrong..




Underdrive pulleys are a complete waste of money, and if you ever decide to S/C your car they must be removed.Ha, 10hp and faster windup are benefits. There are dynos that show this.

[MOTOWN]

Yep, same thing happens at a high rpm shift... Just like letting off quickly. It "free wheels" and you don't hear the chirp. What I said isn't wrong..

Yes it was! but ok if you say so!


Ha, 10hp and faster windup are benefits. There are dynos that show this.

You wont get 10hp out of UD pulleys unless lightning strikes!:bs:

[babbage]

You wont get 10hp out of UD pulleys unless lightning strikes!:bs:




:bs::bs::bs:
Experience and at least 20 members have proof otherwise.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61895

10 hp gain on the Dyno. Brian Fordnut, there are numerous others.

Here's another
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=75564

I Noticed you didn't say anything about the Marauder stock clutch pulley and my explanation of how it works. Still waiting for the education there.

Now you are wrong on 2 things.. -- are you calling FordNut a liar??

[2,4shofast]

I only deal in facts, not speculate on what should happen on someone else's car that is different from mine.

Fact: solid pulleys very often will belt chirp and this is why Ford used a clutched pulley - to smooth the accessory drive during shifts.




My DB Alternator with a solid pulley has belt chirp every time I go WOT. This isnt a one alternator issue and it does happen on several cars with solid pulleys. Not all but some.

[justbob]

Mine "regular" DB alt. Is whisper quiet at all RPMs. Maybe more of a high output thing?


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[lifespeed]

Mine "regular" DB alt. Is whisper quiet at all RPMs. Maybe more of a high output thing?

Supercharger accessory drive setup?

[MOTOWN]

:bs::bs::bs:
Experience and at least 20 members have proof otherwise.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61895

10 hp gain on the Dyno. Brian Fordnut, there are numerous others.

Here's another
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=75564

I Noticed you didn't say anything about the Marauder stock clutch pulley and my explanation of how it works. Still waiting for the education there.

Now you are wrong on 2 things.. -- are you calling FordNut a liar??

Not at all, your just wrong on both statements, were beating a dead horse here! can we agree to disagree, and move on:confused:

[justbob]

Supercharger accessory drive setup?


Didn't think of that but yes very well could be as the belt immediately goes around an idler only a few inches away.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[TooManyFords]

Underdrive pulleys are a complete waste of money, and if you ever decide to S/C your car they must be removed.
But they are totally awesome with turbos!

[therealrogers]

Just wanted to give an update of where I ended up and my experiences.

DB Electrical refunded my money for both alternators. Still not sure why they couldn't supply me with a working one.

Although I wanted an HO Alternator, I was already two weeks behind where I wanted to be, so I ordered the alternator from AutoZone (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Gold-Duralast-Alternator/_/N-93xme?itemIdentifier=34862_0_0 _) because they seemed to be able to get one to me on the road faster than everyone else. Although sold under the Duralast Brand, the alternator shipped directly from Remy Power Products. It appeared to have a clutched pulley and had no belt chirp at high RPM shifts. I got a 14.2V reading at idle.

I also ordered an 160A HO unit from Quality Power (http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=133). It came a few days later and worked perfect, same Voltage reading as Autozone alternator.

I returned the AutoZone alternator to a store today.

Thanks for all the recommendations. Glad to be back on the road!!

[tbone]

I'm getting a plain old OEM Ford alternator for my car for $195. And I will be perfectly happy with it for the next 100,000 miles.

[lifespeed]

I'm getting a plain old OEM Ford alternator for my car for $195. And I will be perfectly happy with it for the next 100,000 miles.

Unless there is a need for high electric power, I agree that is the way to go. Proven, smooth and low accessory drag. I'm just afraid I would cook the stocker adding an extra 50+ amps constant load for hours on end. Of course this problem would make itself known on a two-lane Nevada highway in the middle of nowhere.

I will have a Mechman dual-idler accessory plate that bolts below the alt early next week to increase the belt wrap on the 260A unit. They claim this eliminates belt slip. Will post results and photos.

Edit: extra 50 amps from towing a tent trailer while charging it's deep-cycle batteries.

[tbone]

I won't have a need for high electrical power. Unless or course I install a 1.1 gigawatt flux capacitor........

Hmmmmm....