Big Brakes on a not-so-big Budget? YEP

[blazen71]

Just did this mod to my car. Replaced front and rear flex hose from Todd. Also did new rear rotors and pads. Phenomenal stopping and pedal feel compared to the stock brakes. One thing I noticed is the rotor ID needs to be opened up .030", not .003".

[cheapthrillb2]

Brackets back in stock....

Do you currently have any available? Reading back through the last couple pages. This was your last comment I noticed in regards to availability. Thanks.

[NorthShoreChiMM]

What year corvette do the calipers go to? Second, the prices on napas website don't correspond to the links and prices provided here. The rotors say their 44 a piece? Just want to make sure Im looking at the correct parts. Thanks
Furthermore-Could somebody point me in the right direction of what pads to choose, just looking for now, P/N please and thank you

[BAD MERC]

Now seems to be the time to do this since I manage a local Advance Auto Parts. I'm gonna snipe all these parts and do the upgrade right after the new year. This thread is great!

[lji372]

Yes they (the brackets) are in stock.
This is the parts list I used.

The calipers are C5 vette calipers

Rock auto
$105 18-B4703 caliper
$105 18-B4702 caliper
Tce
(Marauder Zach front)
$85 front braided lines
Me
$170 adapter brackets
eBay
$138 hart 2012 gt500 rotors
Amazon
$38 Wagner pads mx731


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[mm svt]

Its astounding that people can’t read and comprehend the posts originally made with part numbers, prices, years, in full detail.

[BAD MERC]

Yes they (the brackets) are in stock.
This is the parts list I used.

The calipers are C5 vette calipers

Rock auto
$105 18-B4703 caliper
$105 18-B4702 caliper
Tce
(Marauder Zach front)
$85 front braided lines
Me
$170 adapter brackets
eBay
$138 hart 2012 gt500 rotors
Amazon
$38 Wagner pads mx731


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Oh gawd don't hate me!!! The TCE lines - are those Marauder lines or different for the Vette calipers? I have TCE lines already.

[NorthShoreChiMM]

Its astounding that people can’t read and comprehend the posts originally made with part numbers, prices, years, in full detail.

The first page had napa parts with prices not matching what was posted here. Didn't exactly want to read through 60+ pages of posts to find it. Wanted to make sure

[NorthShoreChiMM]

Oh gawd don't hate me!!! The TCE lines - are those Marauder lines or different for the Vette calipers? I have TCE lines already.

"Zach Front" lines, it says, They are different

[cheapthrillb2]

Yes they (the brackets) are in stock.
This is the parts list I used.

The calipers are C5 vette calipers

Rock auto
$105 18-B4703 caliper
$105 18-B4702 caliper
Tce
(Marauder Zach front)
$85 front braided lines
Me
$170 adapter brackets
eBay
$138 hart 2012 gt500 rotors
Amazon
$38 Wagner pads mx731


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent you a message.

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

NAPA has lowered some of their prices, especially the rotors.
I purchased a set on Ebay including shipping for under $80

[Serge]

"Zach Front" lines, it says, They are different

Marauder lines will work, just need different banjo bolts for calipers.

[Zack]

Marauder lines will work, just need different banjo bolts for calipers.

Incorrect.

[musclemerc]

The C5 calipers require a 90* bend at the caliper. Stock MM is a straight fitting

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

Also , remember the original post is four years old.
Some prices go up, Some prices come down.

[patford]

So what year are the xlr calipers , part numbers ?

[Taemian]

#####################

[Dlynch1130]

Brackets back in stock....

Jerry:

I left you a PM. I would like to purchase your brackets. I have your paypal address, just need to know how much to send, $170? Also, if you have none in stock, please use the funds I send to start your next waiting list.

Thank you,

Dick Lynch

[lji372]

Jerry:

I left you a PM. I would like to purchase your brackets. I have your paypal address, just need to know how much to send, $170? Also, if you have none in stock, please use the funds I send to start your next waiting list.

Thank you,

Dick Lynch

Pm sent, in stock and ready to ship.

Yes still $170 shipped to the conus.

Regards
Jerry

[lji372]

Was it ever confirmed the xlr calipers not only bolt up but everything clears the Marauder wheel and the thin wheel weights can still be used?

Thank you in advance. :2thumbs:

[Sully008]

Was it ever confirmed the xlr calipers not only bolt up but everything clears the Marauder wheel and the thin wheel weights can still be used?

Thank you in advance. :2thumbs:


Yup. Confirmed.



Got a set of XLR calipers locally. They are same as C5 Vette. Part numbers match up. Fitment confirmed.

[03Merc]

Yup. Confirmed.



You can just do a static balance and moves the weights to the center of the wheel....


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[burt ragio]

Any photo of the project in progress ? Did you have to use 90 degree bend brake lines ?

[Serge]

The C5 calipers require a 90* bend at the caliper. Stock MM is a straight fitting

I will pull the wheel off on the weekend and take some pics of the two but I did test the regular line when I was installing mine and it did bolt up.

[ledzilla]

You can just do a static balance and moves the weights to the center of the wheel....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProI ended up having my wheels dynamically balanced, with the weights moved inboard. No clearance issues with the calipers and the wheels are well balanced, even at 110mph.

[Mickeyman04]

Hello everyone. Mike from Dallas here. I work for advance auto parts. I can get pricing on Saturday for the GT500 rotors and C5 brake calipers. I'll also look at Keystone to look at Stop Tech brake rotors for the front and rear. I can order drilled, slotted, drilled and slotted rotors with or with out Cryo Treatment. Btw Zack and Lji_372 I sent you guys message about buying the brackets.

Thanks Mike.

[musclemerc]

GT500 calipers will not work on a MM....

Been there done that!

[Mickeyman04]

Yes they (the brackets) are in stock.
This is the parts list I used.

The calipers are C5 vette calipers

Rock auto
$105 18-B4703 caliper
$105 18-B4702 caliper
Tce
(Marauder Zach front)
$85 front braided lines
Me
$170 adapter brackets
eBay
$138 hart 2012 gt500 rotors
Amazon
$38 Wagner pads mx731


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello there. I sent you a PM and sent $170 on PayPal
Plano TX addess.

[nopropslaw]

I searched this thread and didn't find the outcome from a guy who posted a similar question, so I hope this is not repetitive.

Will this setup work with c6z06 calipers? All else being the same? I have 19 inch wheels. Thanks.

[ClayBelt]

Does TCE still provide the brake lines? If so, do we have to reach directly out to TCE about the brake lines, or is there a link I’m missing somewhere?

[MyBlackBeasts]

Does TCE still provide the brake lines? If so, do we have to reach directly out to TCE about the brake lines, or is there a link I’m missing somewhere?


Link is in the vendor forum.


http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/

[ClayBelt]

Link is in the vendor forum.


http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/

Alright, so it does look like I have to reach out directly to them.

[03Merc]

Alright, so it does look like I have to reach out directly to them.



You can order them on the page, look for "Zack's fronts" in the drop down box for Marauder.


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[ClayBelt]

You can order them on the page, look for "Zack's fronts" in the drop down box for Marauder.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Awesome. I had somehow missed the drop down box when I was browsing their page before.

[cheapthrillb2]

Question for those with the front kits...

Anybody notice a difference when trying to foot brake at the track? Last year I could foot brake and hold the car to about 3200 rpm to launch. This year it's around 2600-2700 before I start pushing through the brakes.

My thought process was maybe the corvette calipers were a bit larger and not upgrading the master cyl to displace more fluid might be the source. When we upgrade our axles in jeeps with larger brakes we have to go to larger master cylinders.

My brakes feel fine, good firm pedal, stops great etc. Just can't foot brake like I could.

Torn between a possible brake change or my torque converter. It's the same converter as last year, but I did have the company I got it from cut/clean it over the winter to renew my warranty.

[justbob]

Question for those with the front kits...

Anybody notice a difference when trying to foot brake at the track? Last year I could foot brake and hold the car to about 3200 rpm to launch. This year it's around 2600-2700 before I start pushing through the brakes.

My thought process was maybe the corvette calipers were a bit larger and not upgrading the master cyl to displace more fluid might be the source. When we upgrade our axles in jeeps with larger brakes we have to go to larger master cylinders.

My brakes feel fine, good firm pedal, stops great etc. Just can't foot brake like I could.

Torn between a possible brake change or my torque converter. It's the same converter as last year, but I did have the company I got it from cut/clean it over the winter to renew my warranty.



Could also be a difference in your tire life, air pressure, temps, and track prep.

Any changes in those departments? I’ve never read of any booster changes even with the larger Wilwood kits.


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[RubberCtyRauder]

get a Hurst roll control

[justbob]

get a Hurst roll control



I was assuming he already had one and was pushing thru the front pads because of traction? I could be wrong.


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[Spectragod]

get a Hurst roll control



Get 2, one for each front wheel


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cheapthrillb2]

Tires were identical. I only run my etss at the track (not on the street). Hoping to go back this week to the track. Got to try a few other things. I wasn't talking boosters, but master cylinders.

Track condition, Temps, humidity etc were all very similar.

[NATEHAWK]

Anyone install speed bleeders on the C5 Calipers? If so are they the same spec for the Marauder stock?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cruise_missile]

Probably a pretty obvious answer to this since a lot of people are running this set up, but are these rotors centered on the lugs? Or are people just getting the id knurled out professionally? My rotors are starting to pulse a little on braking so I might as well do the upgrade now.

[justbob]

You open the hub hole .030 with a die grinder.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[cheapthrillb2]

Probably a pretty obvious answer to this since a lot of people are running this set up, but are these rotors centered on the lugs? Or are people just getting the id knurled out professionally? My rotors are starting to pulse a little on braking so I might as well do the upgrade now.


Not really lug centered but hub centered. But if you didn't grind the center straight it could be off. But neither scenario should cause pulsation. If you had debris between the rotor and hub surface could. Alot of vehicles today are'nt lug centered, but hub centered. Even then I find alot aren't that great and have a little slop in fitment, but have no real braking concerns.

[cheapthrillb2]

In response to my question on braking force. I think I'm gonna try and rebleed the brakes. While the pedal feels firm and no excessive drop, I have had the abs engage a few times over several hundred miles when it shouldn't engage. So I'm gonna readdress that and bleed with a scanner as well and see if that makes any difference.

[NATEHAWK]

In response to my question on braking force. I think I'm gonna try and rebleed the brakes. While the pedal feels firm and no excessive drop, I have had the abs engage a few times over several hundred miles when it shouldn't engage. So I'm gonna readdress that and bleed with a scanner as well and see if that makes any difference.

If you haven't already get speed bleeders.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cruise_missile]

Not really lug centered but hub centered. But if you didn't grind the center straight it could be off. But neither scenario should cause pulsation. If you had debris between the rotor and hub surface could. Alot of vehicles today are'nt lug centered, but hub centered. Even then I find alot aren't that great and have a little slop in fitment, but have no real braking concerns.

Sorry if it was confusing, but I have pulsing now with oe brake setup. I'm buying the pieces for this now and I'm deciding if I should get the rotors professionally knurled out. I figured most are hub centered so just wondering how people are clearing it out with a grinder and not having vibration. I'll probably have it done professionally and not risk vibration at 80+

[Blakshukvw]

Over 20k miles and 1 worn out set of pads on my brake upgrade in 1 year. Still love the brakes. Just installed Hawk HP+ pads and the brakes are even better than before. Might have a piston seal leaking on my crappy Oreilly caliper already. The Powerstop on the other side is doing great so it’s just an inferior reman from Oreilly. Keep an eye on your remans for this.

[Blakshukvw]

Sorry if it was confusing, but I have pulsing now with oe brake setup. I'm buying the pieces for this now and I'm deciding if I should get the rotors professionally knurled out. I figured most are hub centered so just wondering how people are clearing it out with a grinder and not having vibration. I'll probably have it done professionally and not risk vibration at 80+
it certainly wouldn’t hurt to have the center bore machined properly on a lathe. Do whatever makes you feel comfortable. Turbov6 Bryan and I just used a dremel bit.

[mm svt]

Sorry if it was confusing, but I have pulsing now with oe brake setup. I'm buying the pieces for this now and I'm deciding if I should get the rotors professionally knurled out. I figured most are hub centered so just wondering how people are clearing it out with a grinder and not having vibration. I'll probably have it done professionally and not risk vibration at 80+

Probably too much for you if your ocd is preventing you from using a round sanding drum inside a round hole for the .001” needed. What do you think the machine shop would do anyway? Set up mill or cnc the rotor.


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[03Merc]

All You do is modify the hub a little, so every rotor fits. You'll have to replace the rotors eventually anyways....


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[03MERCMARAUDER]

Anybody looked at the Cadillac ATS Brembo calipers as an upgrade? Newest swap for the 03/04 cobra guys for a cheap front brake upgrade. Curious if these could be adapter to work on Marauder.

Joe

[mm svt]

Anybody looked at the Cadillac ATS Brembo calipers as an upgrade? Newest swap for the 03/04 cobra guys for a cheap front brake upgrade. Curious if these could be adapter to work on Marauder.

Joe

Not sure why, the set that Zach and Jerry have are perfect


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[blazen71]

Because they are 4 piston fixed vs. 2 piston floating.

[Peace2Peep]

Hmmm...interesting...!

[03MERCMARAUDER]

Not sure why, the set that Zach and Jerry have are perfect


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Never said they weren't perfect..... just another option to look at.

[musclemerc]

If it's a Brembo more than likely they will not work. The front spacing will be too wide to clear the backside of the wheel.

You could use them IF you plan on using a spacer. Which I hate the thought of using.

I tried a set of Brembo 4 piston calipers from a GT500 and lost $$ trying to make them fit behind a stock wheel. Gave up and went to this setup!

Good luck, keep us posted on your results.

[cheapthrillb2]

Can anybody tell me if the 05+ Mustang wheels clear the calipers? Not the diameter specifically, but the spokes? I had American racing torq thrust 18x9 prior to the brake upgrade and afterwards, the spokes of the wheel hit the face of the calipers. I ended up replacing the wheels and kinda got stuck specifically with a set I'm not overly enthusiastic about. I don't have oems, I know they can clear, just didn't have any. But looking at maybe some mustangs.

[a_d_a_m]

Can anybody tell me if the 05+ Mustang wheels clear the calipers? It would be helpful to know which of the litany of offerings you're referring to.

I can say with certainty that the wheels seen in this picture do in fact clear the Zack brakes.
https://car-from-uk.com/ebay/carphotos/full/ebay147911060673543.jpg

[cheapthrillb2]

I'm specifically looking at the 05+ Saleen hertigae 19" wheels.

[Blakshukvw]

Probably too much for you if your ocd is preventing you from using a round sanding drum inside a round hole for the .001” needed. What do you think the machine shop would do anyway? Set up mill or cnc the rotor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I would think a machinist would put the rotor in a lathe since that’s what is used to to turn down inside or outside dimensions usually. But what do I know.

[cheapthrillb2]

Can anybody tell me if the 05+ Mustang wheels clear the calipers? Not the diameter specifically, but the spokes? I had American racing torq thrust 18x9 prior to the brake upgrade and afterwards, the spokes of the wheel hit the face of the calipers. I ended up replacing the wheels and kinda got stuck specifically with a set I'm not overly enthusiastic about. I don't have oems, I know they can clear, just didn't have any. But looking at maybe some mustangs.


It would be helpful to know which of the litany of offerings you're referring to.

I can say with certainty that the wheels seen in this picture do in fact clear the Zack brakes.
https://car-from-uk.com/ebay/carphotos/full/ebay147911060673543.jpg


I'm specifically looking at the 05+ Saleen hertigae 19" wheels.


Yep, thankfully the saleen heritage knock offs cleared lol.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48530863562_b61ecb7364_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2gWvmWW)2019-08-13_03-49-04 (https://flic.kr/p/2gWvmWW) by Cheapthrillb2 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/92671503@N02/), on Flickr

[Peace2Peep]

Looks cool! Nice!

[ClayBelt]

This may seem like a stupid question, but since I’m getting ready to install mine this weekend what die grinder attachment did y’all use to open up your hubs?

[ClayBelt]

Got them on today, wish I had done it sooner. Absolutely love them guys!

[crownvic97]

Ordered all my parts last night, $352 for everything shipped to my door, how could you beat that for a big brake setup?!

Ive had the bracket from Jerry and the TCE lines in the basement for years so I’m not counting that expense, lol.

[crownvic97]

So of course I get the calipers in the mail today and they have the Corvette script on the side, ugh. It says right in the description that they are “without” logo. So I’ll have to call them tomorrow and deal with that.

Anyone just ground off the Corvette script? I’m planning to paint them anyways...

[03Merc]

So of course I get the calipers in the mail today and they have the Corvette script on the side, ugh. It says right in the description that they are “without” logo. So I’ll have to call them tomorrow and deal with that.

Anyone just ground off the Corvette script? I’m planning to paint them anyways...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200312/415f9c5d3ac6daf28a60ff1880d050 82.jpg


Find someone to engrave them! Might as well now.


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[crownvic97]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200312/415f9c5d3ac6daf28a60ff1880d050 82.jpg


Find someone to engrave them! Might as well now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

After dealing with way too much stupidity I ended up returning them and buying a new set from Rockauto for a few bucks more. Apparently Autozone will not guarantee the calipers will come without Corvette on the side, even though the listing clearly says “Without Corvette Script” The store employee just could not fathom why this was an issue...

[blazen71]

I bough the "Non-logo" from Rockauto and they were correct!

[crownvic97]

Order from RockAuto came in. I now have one without a Corvette logo, and one with. :mad2:

[BigCars4Ever]

I ended with two completely different calipers. I had to return them twice before I got a matching set. And yes I ground the corvette off of them and ground the fins down a little for better wheel weight clearance.

[crownvic97]

I ended with two completely different calipers. I had to return them twice before I got a matching set. And yes I ground the corvette off of them and ground the fins down a little for better wheel weight clearance.


that’s what I have, I’ll have to call them Monday and see if I can try this again...

[03Merc]

I ended with two completely different calipers. I had to return them twice before I got a matching set. And yes I ground the corvette off of them and ground the fins down a little for better wheel weight clearance.

You can do a static balance and move the weights to the center of the wheel...if it were to be an issue.


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[ClayBelt]

I ordered both of mine without, they both came with so I just kinda said screw it and highlighted the corvette script as some mild revenge for all those 32 fords with SBC in them. Rock auto sucks at selling them consistently without from what I’ve heard and your best bet is to grind them off

[ledzilla]

You can do a static balance and move the weights to the center of the wheel...if it were to be an issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProI think that's actually a dynamic balance. I had to do that for mine because it was a hair too tight on one wheel. A nearby shop was able to balance the fronts with the weight set towards the center. Been butter smooth even when reaching triple digits.

[MercLSU]

So last week I finally got off of my rear and installed these brakes. Unfortunately I’ve had issues with brake noise on the driver’s side. I don’t believe this to be an issue with the adapter brackets whatsoever but I wanted to run the situation past y’all and to see if anybody had a similar issue or had any advice to offer. If I should post this in a separate thread, please let me know.

Also, this will be a bit long so I apologize for that. I’ve probably way overthought this but it’s one of those little nagging things that has me stumped.

The parts I used were:



Adapter brackets from lji372
Hose kit from TCE
Raybestos rotors P/N 680497PER
Duralast Gold Ceramic Brake Pads P/N DG731
Duralast Bracketed Brake Calipers P/N 18-B4702 and 18-B4703 (reman)


From start to finish it took me about three hours and everything looked good and moved freely. Upon driving the car, however, there was an intermittent metallic scraping noise coming from the driver’s side (no issues with the passenger side). I say scraping and not grinding; it sounds like the sound makes when sharpening a knife on a wet stone. It’s definitely not a normal brake squeak or super high pitch noise. It also appears to occur briefly once every revolution briefly (depending on speed). It’s constant upon braking and iffy when driving, though it does seem more audible when turning left.

My first inkling was the wheel weights hitting the caliper. After jacking the car up I did notice slight contact between the wheel weights and the caliper fins. Two minutes with a belt sander and all appeared well. When that didn’t fix the noise, I thought that perhaps I hadn’t adequately opened up the rotor I.D. such that it wasn’t properly seating on the hub. I opened it up a bit more and was then concerned that perhaps it was too loose on the hub and that was the issue. Yesterday I tried both a new rotor (very carefully ensuring that the hub fit was tighter). Nothing changed. I tried a new set of pads. Nothing changed.

I used a black marker on the outside of the rotor to ensure that it wasn’t rubbing the bracket / pad clips or anything else. I also did the same with the wheel weights. Nada. Even though I was certain I’d removed enough material from the spindle, I removed the brackets and checked for any burs on them (I recall dropping one from a couple of feet in the air on the concrete). Everything looked good but I removed a little more material from the spindle near the inside curved part of the bracket to be sure. I drove the car 20 miles to ensure that it wasn’t some odd break in issue with the pads. Nothing changed.

There is no visual alignment issue that I can see. I’ve checked this when the wheel off and the rotor tightened to the hub both with centering lugs and without (to ensure I didn’t enlarge the I.D. too much but again the second rotor fits plenty tight to the hub). I’ve also visually checked the alignment with both with the brake applied and not applied.

One thing I do notice that’s appeared on both rotors is an odd groove on the lower part of the wear pattern that I can’t explain. It’s definitely below the bracket / pad retaining clips. The only thing that would appear to be contacting the rotor here is the pad. A picture is below. I can get pictures of everything else once I pull it all back apart.

50803

Additional details / things I’ve thought of / checked:



The car has never been wrecked to my knowledge and I can’t find any obvious damage to the spindle
There is no play in the hub / wheel bearing
There are no marks on the inside of the wheel where anything could be rubbing / scraping on the caliper that I can find
The car stops well, has great pedal feel, and doesn’t pull to one side when braking. Everything was bled properly.
There are no vibrations when braking, thus I feel the rotors are flat enough to not be causing the noise
All hardware is adequately tight but not overtightened or stripped. Only the OEM bracket bolts and supplied adapter bolts were used.
I cannot reproduce the noise when the car raised and turning the wheel, either with no brake applied or it being slightly applied
The calipers appear to be undamaged and the floating pins move freely in and out
The previous rotors were anything but flat; cheesy eBay rotors that the P/O installed. Warped as they were, they never made any noise.
The factory dust shield was retained but there is adequate clearance between it and the inside of the rotor; there are no grooves on the inside of the rotor.
There are no other noises, rattles, clunking, etc. that would indicate anything being loose.


When I get some time this week I suppose I’ll try to keep ruling things out by switching the driver’s side wheel (temporarily of course), adapter bracket, rotor, and pads with that of the passenger’s side. That would leave me with these culprits (please chime in with any others you can think of):



An alignment issue that I can’t visually determine (either between the rotor and hub, between the spindle and the adapter bracket, between the adapter bracket and the caliper bracket, between the caliper and caliper bracket, or between the caliper / pads / rotor)
An issue with the caliper. It’s possible that one piston is stuck or not applying the same amount of pressure as the other, which I suppose the former should be easy to check.


Again, sorry to be so long but as previously mentioned I would appreciate anybody's $.02. Thanks!

[marauderrocks51]

maybe some one can sort this out . with the stock rotors the entire surface is covered with the pad . i also have installed the 14inch set up and at least 1/2 of the bottom of the rotor is not contacted by the pads . i have onlly a few miles on this set up , and to be quite honest i think it was better stock . and yes i have ss hoses . my 2 cents

[Mr. Man]

So last week I finally got off of my rear and installed these brakes. Unfortunately I’ve had issues with brake noise on the driver’s side. I don’t believe this to be an issue with the adapter brackets whatsoever but I wanted to run the situation past y’all and to see if anybody had a similar issue or had any advice to offer. If I should post this in a separate thread, please let me know.

Also, this will be a bit long so I apologize for that. I’ve probably way overthought this but it’s one of those little nagging things that has me stumped.

The parts I used were:



Adapter brackets from lji372
Hose kit from TCE
Raybestos rotors P/N 680497PER
Duralast Gold Ceramic Brake Pads P/N DG731
Duralast Bracketed Brake Calipers P/N 18-B4702 and 18-B4703 (reman)


From start to finish it took me about three hours and everything looked good and moved freely. Upon driving the car, however, there was an intermittent metallic scraping noise coming from the driver’s side (no issues with the passenger side). I say scraping and not grinding; it sounds like the sound makes when sharpening a knife on a wet stone. It’s definitely not a normal brake squeak or super high pitch noise. It also appears to occur briefly once every revolution briefly (depending on speed). It’s constant upon braking and iffy when driving, though it does seem more audible when turning left.

My first inkling was the wheel weights hitting the caliper. After jacking the car up I did notice slight contact between the wheel weights and the caliper fins. Two minutes with a belt sander and all appeared well. When that didn’t fix the noise, I thought that perhaps I hadn’t adequately opened up the rotor I.D. such that it wasn’t properly seating on the hub. I opened it up a bit more and was then concerned that perhaps it was too loose on the hub and that was the issue. Yesterday I tried both a new rotor (very carefully ensuring that the hub fit was tighter). Nothing changed. I tried a new set of pads. Nothing changed.

I used a black marker on the outside of the rotor to ensure that it wasn’t rubbing the bracket / pad clips or anything else. I also did the same with the wheel weights. Nada. Even though I was certain I’d removed enough material from the spindle, I removed the brackets and checked for any burs on them (I recall dropping one from a couple of feet in the air on the concrete). Everything looked good but I removed a little more material from the spindle near the inside curved part of the bracket to be sure. I drove the car 20 miles to ensure that it wasn’t some odd break in issue with the pads. Nothing changed.

There is no visual alignment issue that I can see. I’ve checked this when the wheel off and the rotor tightened to the hub both with centering lugs and without (to ensure I didn’t enlarge the I.D. too much but again the second rotor fits plenty tight to the hub). I’ve also visually checked the alignment with both with the brake applied and not applied.

One thing I do notice that’s appeared on both rotors is an odd groove on the lower part of the wear pattern that I can’t explain. It’s definitely below the bracket / pad retaining clips. The only thing that would appear to be contacting the rotor here is the pad. A picture is below. I can get pictures of everything else once I pull it all back apart.

50803

Additional details / things I’ve thought of / checked:



The car has never been wrecked to my knowledge and I can’t find any obvious damage to the spindle
There is no play in the hub / wheel bearing
There are no marks on the inside of the wheel where anything could be rubbing / scraping on the caliper that I can find
The car stops well, has great pedal feel, and doesn’t pull to one side when braking. Everything was bled properly.
There are no vibrations when braking, thus I feel the rotors are flat enough to not be causing the noise
All hardware is adequately tight but not overtightened or stripped. Only the OEM bracket bolts and supplied adapter bolts were used.
I cannot reproduce the noise when the car raised and turning the wheel, either with no brake applied or it being slightly applied
The calipers appear to be undamaged and the floating pins move freely in and out
The previous rotors were anything but flat; cheesy eBay rotors that the P/O installed. Warped as they were, they never made any noise.
The factory dust shield was retained but there is adequate clearance between it and the inside of the rotor; there are no grooves on the inside of the rotor.
There are no other noises, rattles, clunking, etc. that would indicate anything being loose.


When I get some time this week I suppose I’ll try to keep ruling things out by switching the driver’s side wheel (temporarily of course), adapter bracket, rotor, and pads with that of the passenger’s side. That would leave me with these culprits (please chime in with any others you can think of):



An alignment issue that I can’t visually determine (either between the rotor and hub, between the spindle and the adapter bracket, between the adapter bracket and the caliper bracket, between the caliper and caliper bracket, or between the caliper / pads / rotor)
An issue with the caliper. It’s possible that one piston is stuck or not applying the same amount of pressure as the other, which I suppose the former should be easy to check.


Again, sorry to be so long but as previously mentioned I would appreciate anybody's $.02. Thanks!Assuming it's not something like a dust shield rubbing or a piece of grit it one of the pads it's sounds like a wheel bearing starting to go. As you point out it happens when turning left.

[MercLSU]

Assuming it's not something like a dust shield rubbing or a piece of grit it one of the pads it's sounds like a wheel bearing starting to go. As you point out it happens when turning left.

To clarify when turning right, left, or going straight if I'm depressing the brake the noise doesn't change. After releasing the brake and going straight for a short distance the noise disappears. If I coast to a slow enough speed to turn left I hear the same noise but much less audible. Also, I was regularly driving the car with no noise or such issues before the swap. So based on that I had ruled the wheel bearing out, but I'll add it to the list. Thanks!

[justbob]

Nothing in a braking system is the truest of true. With that said I would personally drive it until I could tell it was changing sound as in going away or just the slightest bit worse. It would be easier to find it if it worsens.

It may just need to all be broken in more.


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[marauderrocks51]

is the clip under the chevrolet caliber installed correctly ? it fits both ways . and if its wrong it makes noise . happened to me .

[crownvic97]

The pads not reaching the bottom part of the rotor surface is normal I think. My setup has the same wear pattern and I’ve noticed it on others as well.

[marauderrocks51]

i dis agree . the pads not only on this set up , but on all vehicles grab the entire rotor . check your rear rotor for reference . by the way , in your opinion does your vehicle stop any quicker ?

[blazen71]

i dis agree . the pads not only on this set up , but on all vehicles grab the entire rotor . check your rear rotor for reference . by the way , in your opinion does your vehicle stop any quicker ?
Wrong......

[marauderrocks51]

i think you are correct . with out any technical data IMOP its the same .

[crownvic97]

i dis agree . the pads not only on this set up , but on all vehicles grab the entire rotor . check your rear rotor for reference . by the way , in your opinion does your vehicle stop any quicker ?
Yeah, I have to say you are wrong on this one.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-tech-performance/3962219-brake-pad-doesn-t-cover-rotor-sufficiently.html



Yes, stopping power is greatly increased.

[marauderrocks51]

well thanks for that info . makes the investment in the brakes more palatable . they are on now and it is what it is . great research . cleared that up .

[MercLSU]

Long story short, it was the caliper bracket.

Now for the long story. I got the red a$$ and ordered a new caliper / bracket and hub assembly, which along with the new rotor and pads would just about rule everything else out, beyond a bent spindle (as nothing was contacting the wheel or wheel weights). The hub assembly arrived on my doorstep first. The existing hub was true (I checked the runout and there was no play, but it didn't have the lubed spring in its step that it should. I installed it along with everything else, and there was no change. After taking the caliper / bracket off in anticipation of the new one arriving, I noticed a very odd wear pattern on the lower portion of the brake pad. I don't have pictures handy but it was the outside of the bottom of both inside and outside pads. I checked the previous set of pads and noticed a similar but faint impression...makes sense as I only drove those a few miles vs. these were driven more.

Once the new caliper / bracket arrived I compared the brackets and noticed they were not exactly the same...we're talking 1/16" here, 1/32" there, but not quite the same. No part numbers on them but not quite the same. I installed the new bracket along with the existing caliper (both out of curiosity and laziness). The caliper now contacted the wheel weights. So the caliper was moved outboard, which I'm assuming corrected the alignment issue between the pistons and the pads. I sc***** the wheel weights off, bolted everything together, and there's been no noise since. I'll be returning the new caliper and old bracket to Autozone. I've probably done several hundred brake jobs in the past but this one was the most frustrating. I'll need to get the wheel re-balanced shortly, and may grind the fins on the caliper down first. I had that thought once I saw it contacting the wheel weights but I couldn't help myself...needed to see if that was the fix.

So as previously mentioned this wasn't meant to question the swap nor did I want to encourage anybody to. The pedal feel is great, the car stops on a dime, and ^(@&#(&@#$ it just looks cooler.

[MercLSU]

is the clip under the chevrolet caliber installed correctly ? it fits both ways . and if its wrong it makes noise . happened to me .

The third / top clip was not included with either the new calipers or the two new pad sets. I did buy a C5 hardware kit while at the parts store so I have two. I do need to take everything apart ONE MORE TIME to put loctite on the caliper bolts. When I do that I'll install those. Since I addressed the other issues described above, I haven't noticed any noise though I've only driven the car about five miles of light city driving.

[crownvic97]

Long story short, it was the caliper bracket.

Now for the long story. I got the red a$$ and ordered a new caliper / bracket and hub assembly, which along with the new rotor and pads would just about rule everything else out, beyond a bent spindle (as nothing was contacting the wheel or wheel weights). The hub assembly arrived on my doorstep first. The existing hub was true (I checked the runout and there was no play, but it didn't have the lubed spring in its step that it should. I installed it along with everything else, and there was no change. After taking the caliper / bracket off in anticipation of the new one arriving, I noticed a very odd wear pattern on the lower portion of the brake pad. I don't have pictures handy but it was the outside of the bottom of both inside and outside pads. I checked the previous set of pads and noticed a similar but faint impression...makes sense as I only drove those a few miles vs. these were driven more.

Once the new caliper / bracket arrived I compared the brackets and noticed they were not exactly the same...we're talking 1/16" here, 1/32" there, but not quite the same. No part numbers on them but not quite the same. I installed the new bracket along with the existing caliper (both out of curiosity and laziness). The caliper now contacted the wheel weights. So the caliper was moved outboard, which I'm assuming corrected the alignment issue between the pistons and the pads. I sc***** the wheel weights off, bolted everything together, and there's been no noise since. I'll be returning the new caliper and old bracket to Autozone. I've probably done several hundred brake jobs in the past but this one was the most frustrating. I'll need to get the wheel re-balanced shortly, and may grind the fins on the caliper down first. I had that thought once I saw it contacting the wheel weights but I couldn't help myself...needed to see if that was the fix.

So as previously mentioned this wasn't meant to question the swap nor did I want to encourage anybody to. The pedal feel is great, the car stops on a dime, and ^(@&#(&@#$ it just looks cooler.

Glad you got it figured out!

[NATEHAWK]

I recently did a big brake upgrade on my car. Check out the video links below that gives a pretty good step by step of the process.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/B-QqwdOBdwW/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link (https://www.instagram.com/tv/B-QqwdOBdwW/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link)

https://www.instagram.com/tv/B-Vs5JTnlV3/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

[Javonys]

Can someone please provide me with the eBay link to purchase the adapter brackets? Thanks

[justbob]

Can someone please provide me with the eBay link to purchase the adapter brackets? Thanks

Post 1...


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[Taemian]

The third / top clip was not included with either the new calipers or the two new pad sets. I did buy a C5 hardware kit while at the parts store so I have two. I do need to take everything apart ONE MORE TIME to put loctite on the caliper bolts. When I do that I'll install those. Since I addressed the other issues described above, I haven't noticed any noise though I've only driven the car about five miles of light city driving.

When I link to the Napa calipers on the kit list, it shows them to be a C4 Corvette, 97-2004. Is that wrong? You said you used C5 calipers.

I was literally just ordering the calipers, I have all the other pieces.

[justbob]

When I link to the Napa calipers on the kit list, it shows them to be a C4 Corvette, 97-2004. Is that wrong? You said you used C5 calipers.

I was literally just ordering the calipers, I have all the other pieces.

97-04 is C5


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[Taemian]

I'm sorry, I got it confused. I'll order the stuff tomorrow. Thanks!

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Drove my car 700+ miles last week from Chicago to GA on this setup and was great. Much better than stock as I remember it.

[dwilasnd]

EDIT: SOLD --- I bought the parts and got them installed but used different brake lines, if someone is doing this installation and wants the TCE brake lines, i'll make you a deal.

[Cat72chevy]

I'd love to buy a set of the brackets if possible any information would be much appreciated.

[En4cer71]

Been years since the original parts/links post. Anyone have a update on more modern/better parts/links for the calipers, pads, and rotors? Trying to get a hold of the brackets....

[Black Terror]

Best Mod I did to my Marauder. A great piece of work.

[cpe6]

Zack should have come to you a long, long time ago

[Black Terror]

I got one of the original kits made.

[fastblackmerc]

Been years since the original parts/links post. Anyone have a update on more modern/better parts/links for the calipers, pads, and rotors? Trying to get a hold of the brackets....

Hands down the BEST BIG BRAKE KIT!!!

https://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/marauder/kits-17/

No searching for parts, no waiting for someone to call you, etc.

[blazen71]

Hands down the BEST BIG BRAKE KIT!!!

https://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/marauder/kits-17/

No searching for parts, no waiting for someone to call you, etc.You're comparing apple to oranges. Of course a 6-piston fixed caliper is going to be better than a 2-piston floating caliper. This post is about a budget friendly big brake upgrade.

[jonmac21]

Been years since the original parts/links post. Anyone have a update on more modern/better parts/links for the calipers, pads, and rotors? Trying to get a hold of the brackets....

Me too! Any luck?

[fastblackmerc]

You're comparing apple to oranges. Of course a 6-piston fixed caliper is going to be better than a 2-piston floating caliper. This post is about a budget friendly big brake upgrade.

If you can't source the parts.........................

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

I agree. This is a $$ friendly upgrade of the front brakes. I’ve done this upgrade on both of my Marauders. On silver, I spent about $300 total for the upgrade. I was lucky and won a pair of ZR1 calipers for $51 total.

This is the best upgrade on any Marauder that doesn’t want to spend 3K for a brake upgrade.


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[jonmac21]

I may just go ahead and buy the Corvette calipers and GT500 rotors and take it all to a local machine shop to make a bracket to attach it to the MM knuckle...

[RubberCtyRauder]

I may just go ahead and buy the Corvette calipers and GT500 rotors and take it all to a local machine shop to make a bracket to attach it to the MM knuckle...
Member Jerry, lji372 makes the brackets..he is busy at his business and most don't frequent here so much..all went to Marauder page on Facebook

[jonmac21]

Member Jerry, lji372 makes the brackets..he is busy at his business and most don't frequent here so much..all went to Marauder page on Facebook

Hey thank you so much! I did not know this, I thought Zack made them. Appreciate it!

[MyBlackBeasts]

Hey thank you so much! I did not know this, I thought Zack made them. Appreciate it!

Zach & Jerry teamed up to design and Jerry fabs in his shop

[jonmac21]

Zach & Jerry teamed up to design and Jerry fabs in his shop

Thanks guys!!

[En4cer71]

Love all the comments... but seriously, some of use dumbasses are looking for dummy proof links to the parts needed.... outside of the brackets....
:)

[blazen71]

Handholding is always nice, but if you can put the parts on yourself, I sure hope you can read what model car the rotors and calipers are for and find the ones you want on RockAuto.

[daniel.drives]

Sweet. Did this job last week, took it out for a track day weekend, and HOLY **** THAT'S GOOD.

Breakdown is C5 calipers from Rockauto, 18FR1853/4, $234 for the pair. Specified no logo, came with the corvette logo, ground it off with an 80 grit flap disc and under paint, you literally cant tell.
GT500 rotors from Summit, got the raybestos 680497PER, $181 for the pair
TCE Zack kit, $194. Need to double check my front line routing now that they've been used for a bit, but the lines are nice and came with all the hardware. On the front brackets, the ones that hold the junction of the hardline to softline, the holes for the bolt and the guidepin weren't very precise, I'd advise re-bending, grinding, or drilling before you take the old line off and have brake fluid dripping everywhere while trying to make it fit.
I went with expensiver race pads from Hawk, HB247S.575 for $264. If you're not tracking your car, go with a street compound from a normal company. These are expensive and loud, but holy cow do they stop hard, and I haven't experienced even a hint of brake fade yet.
And of course, the brackets from Gerald Irwin, who is easiest to find on Facebook. $170 got me a pair of very nice looking brackets, anodized, with appropriate hardware for attaching the corvette caliper. You'll need to grind a little of the spindle ears, I just made sure I could get a piece of paper between the spindle and the bracket.

So for a total of $1043 and a few hours of work, it feels like I've increased the stopping power of the car by at least 60%. More importantly for my 20-25 minute track sessions, I've increased the heat capacity of the system and no longer need to take a chill lap in the middle. And it fits inside the stock wheels, wheel weights and all (your mileage may vary). And most importantly, it looks great. Now I need to order the matching rotors for the rear and some fresh Hawk HPS pads to keep up.

As far as the unused inner strip of the rotor: You're getting the braking force farthest from the axis of rotation, which has the most leverage when it comes to slowing you down. You're also getting the most out of the surface area of the rotor, since Area = pi*R2^2 minus pi*R1^2. If the visual is really that big of a turn off, maybe get the GT500 caliper too, make your own custom bracket, and then get bigger wheels because it's probably thicker than the corvette caliper and won't fit between the rotor and the stock marauder wheels.

Anyways, 10/10 recommend

[MAC1]

So I just did the big brake upgrade to my Marauder and all I can say is this is one of the best upgrades I've ever done.
It stops SOOOO much better than stock set up, I would highly recommend this to anyone looking to improve their front
brakes in these cars...
Thanks guys.

[daniel.drives]

So 5 month update: I run my Marauder at track days at road courses around the southwest. I'm pretty sure I drive mine harder than anyone, but I'd love to be proven wrong.

Performance has continued to be astounding. The increase in braking force and heat capacity has dramatically improved my confidence in driving and I can push this thing into corners way harder than anyone on track would suspect. I've ran through a couple sets of Hawk DTC-60 pads, they have incredible braking force and no change in feel as things get hot, even at the most demanding tracks. Impressive, but $300/set hurts, so I'm trying out the carbon metallic brakes from Performance Friction concepts, available from local parts stores for $99/set. So far so good, and it's nice having access to the range of pad options that are made for the C5. The TCE lines are great, just make sure they fold nicely at installation before you tighten anything down, they can end up rubbing on tires if you're not careful. Gerald Irwin's brackets continue to be excellent. The first set of slotted Raybestos rotors I had finally cracked after like 7 track days, I knew I was pushing it when I didn't replace them before the weekend that it happened, I'm going to buy more, Slots seem to work much better than the blank rotors that I had to get in a pinch. Speaking of getting rotors in a pinch, don't forget that the hub bore of the mustang rotor needs to be opened up a smidge for the panther hubs. I'm going to keep a spare pair that are already modified on hand because that was a pain to do in the paddock.

My biggest problem is the Rockauto sourced C5 calipers. They're rebuilt, as any 15+ year old caliper you can buy is, but there were some surprising quality issues: the slide pins were different side to side, one had a hex head, one had a round head, and on one side, the bolts that hold the caliper to the slide pin come on the verge of stripping, there's maybe half of the thread depth left the first time I removed them to change pads. I've also developed an issue with one side getting loose and letting the caliper move around, it was already tight on the mustang 18s I track with, but at the end of this last track weekend I had scrapes both on the inside of the wheel and the outside edge of the rotor. Since I ground the "corvette" off and shaved the fins to fit the mustang 18s (fanblade design, the Marauder 18s fit with no shaving with plenty of clearance), I think I'm a little married to those calipers, so I may have to source replacement brackets, slide pins, and bolts. Again, this is an issue that's developed over months of track abuse, for spirited street driving you probably wont have this issue.

Question for Zack and Jerry: I've learned that the C6 base model caliper fits the same bracket and provides more strength against flexing, why not use it here? Is there an issue with fitment under the stock wheels?

Thanks again for putting together such an awesome kit.

[daniel.drives]

I went ahead and swapped C6 front calipers onto the C5 brackets, they seem to give a little better pedal feel under hard abuse. I've been dailying on 19 inch mustang wheels and running high brake clearance 18s at the track, havent had a chance to throw the stock wheels back on and see if they clear the thicker calipers.

Here's my brake pad report:
Hawk HPS and HPS+: Excellent. Pricey for street pads, but you get what you pay for and they hold up to aggressive use well.
Hawk HT-10: More aggressive stopping power than HPS, very good heat resistance for sustained abuse. Wears very quickly when hot, though. $250/set
Hawk DTC-60: Excellent track pads with relatively good cold (street) characteristics as well. More durable than the HT-10, I usually get about 5 track days out of a pair. V expensive at $300/set
Performance Friction Compounds carbon ceramic whatever: Bought these at Oreillys when I got tired of paying for DTC-60. Great for street use, but hi-temp track use deposits a lot of pad material on the rotors. Enough to give the car a vibration under braking. Seemed to be a long lasting pad. $100/set
Powerstop PST731: Rockauto's track day brake compound. Smaller friction puck than some, but this doesn't seem to hurt performance under extreme conditions. Only ran for one track day so far, but I was impressed. Too soon to say about durability yet. Seems dustier in street use than track use. $100/set

[burt ragio]

I went ahead and swapped C6 front calipers onto the C5 brackets, they seem to give a little better pedal feel under hard abuse. I've been dailying on 19 inch mustang wheels and running high brake clearance 18s at the track, havent had a chance to throw the stock wheels back on and see if they clear the thicker calipers.

Here's my brake pad report:
Hawk HPS and HPS+: Excellent. Pricey for street pads, but you get what you pay for and they hold up to aggressive use well.
Hawk HT-10: More aggressive stopping power than HPS, very good heat resistance for sustained abuse. Wears very quickly when hot, though. $250/set
Hawk DTC-60: Excellent track pads with relatively good cold (street) characteristics as well. More durable than the HT-10, I usually get about 5 track days out of a pair. V expensive at $300/set
Performance Friction Compounds carbon ceramic whatever: Bought these at Oreillys when I got tired of paying for DTC-60. Great for street use, but hi-temp track use deposits a lot of pad material on the rotors. Enough to give the car a vibration under braking. Seemed to be a long lasting pad. $100/set
Powerstop PST731: Rockauto's track day brake compound. Smaller friction puck than some, but this doesn't seem to hurt performance under extreme conditions. Only ran for one track day so far, but I was impressed. Too soon to say about durability yet. Seems dustier in street use than track use. $100/set


Any idea if the c6 caliper fit with stock 18” wheels ?

[FiestaST]

Hello guys and gals. Thanks to all that made this happen !!! Just did this to replace my KVR rotors which were made of unobtainium and went belly up long ago. Completely worn down but stayed true to the end. Could have had discs made but $600 later in same boat. Grinding and bolt up with bracket was fine. Only issue is the C5 pads don't cover all the disc surface area. Lose approx 15% contact towards bottom. Aesthetically challenging. Pads are not tall enough. Got the leverage though and using Carbotec X8 compound pads. Pricey but best pads I've had on any vehicle over last AHHHGGG!! 50+ years. As Mikey says try it you'll like it. Talk to Mike or Mike Jr. at Carbotec.Fast response and very helpfull. Proverbial hit the brick wall stopping. Better have premium rubber. Will post pics when I get a chance. Call/text me me if you want 908-208-3735

Thanks, Stan

[Serge]

Has anyone experienced annoying squeaking from the brakes when going over bumps?

[Comin' in Hot]

Has anyone experienced annoying squeaking from the brakes when going over bumps? I have about 175,000 miles on this brake upgrade. I experience squeezing when the pedal is depressed and the brake pads are less than 1/2 of new. If its happening going over bumps I would check your wheel bearings/ hubs for movement.

[Serge]

Turned out to be the body mounts.

[Serge]

Question for the experts. Pad on the right is off c5 Vette. Pad on the left is from Hemi Charger. Charger pads fit Vette calipers. Would there be any advantage to these over c5 pads? There does appear to be more pad material on Charger pads. Thoughts?

53114

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

Interesting find. What year Charger?
Is that a Brembo brake pad? Or base brake pad?
I’m extremely happy with my C5 pads.
My car stops on a dime.


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[Serge]

Like 06 and up v8 Charger, 300c or Magnum with dual piston calipers. Not Brembo.

[NATEHAWK]

Hmmmmm interesting. More pad is definitely more bite.

[xxfonziexx]

Does anyone know if the brackets are still available for this? I have one of the very early sets on my '03, and recently picked up an '04 that desperately needs better braking.

I'll go with one of the Wilwood kits if this whole project has ended, but I really like this kit from a long term ownership perspective. I plan to have this car for a long time, and I know I'll always be able to find Corvette and Mustang brake parts. Wilwood may not be around 20-30 years from now if I need parts.

[03Merc]

Does anyone know if the brackets are still available for this? I have one of the very early sets on my '03, and recently picked up an '04 that desperately needs better braking.

I'll go with one of the Wilwood kits if this whole project has ended, but I really like this kit from a long term ownership perspective. I plan to have this car for a long time, and I know I'll always be able to find Corvette and Mustang brake parts. Wilwood may not be around 20-30 years from now if I need parts.

I let the vendor know You are looking for another set.


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[lji372]

Yes sir paypal $170 to lji_372@yahoo.com as friends and family. Don’t forget to include your shipping address in the notes.

[xxfonziexx]

Awesome! I just sent the payment through. Thank you!!

[lji372]

thank you, i’ll pm tracking in the morning.