Eaton intercooler coolant leak

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

So I guess it's about time I ask for advice and opinions. I have done a good amount of research on the subject but need some input from eaton swapped MM fellas.

Ever since getting my car back from the eaton installation, it hasn't been right. The intercooler coolant had always been low and would always go down after topping off and purging air out.

A couple weeks back I took apart stuff and replaced the water tube o rings at the intercooler side with new rings. I have been using the car for a while and didn't notice a significant loss in coolant until tonight. There was still some loss I did not know whether or not to attribute it to air in the system or if in fact a leak since I haven't driven much.

Tonight I topped it off to the line, drove for 15 minutes. Did some decent pulls - nothing crazy then stopped at a gas station. When leaving a Chevy SS hammered away and I hit it to catch him. The car didn't lose traction as I would have expected and instead left a plume of white smoke. I got home 10 min later and the coolant had gone from this

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/25/ygu2a4ur.jpg

To this

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/25/ga5unu6a.jpg

Now when parking it at the gas station I noticed what seems to be a dripping sound onto a hot exhaust pipe every couple of seconds a good 3-5 min after shutting the motor down. I couldn't explain this might just have been water as it had rained earlier today.

I should say the car starts fine, idles fine, drives fine, no codes and the coolant does not seem to go down any when parking and sitting over night. If it did I would be afraid of cranking the motor.

I am planning a tear down of the blower and taking the intercooler and water adapter parts to be pressure tested. My question is what do you guys think they should pressure test at? 19psi? And is there a right or wrong way of plugging in the water adapter piece into the intercooler when installing? Any help is appreciated as this is now keeping me from enjoying the car after all the hustling of gathering parts over the end of winter and rushing to get it installed. Thanks.


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[justbob]

The white smoke would have me concerned. Any chance you may have nicked the new Orings? Definitely sounds as if it's leaking into the lower intake and blowing out the exhaust.

Not sure on the pressure test. 19 for that system seems kinda high.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

I am not finding any external leaks, or puddles outside. The exhaust smelled sweet today and it definitely seems to hold off on consuming coolant if I grandma the car when driving it, so out of boost that's for sure. I am wondering if there could be a pin hole leak on the intercooler somewhere and only leaks under high boost = higher temps, higher pressure...or if there is a weak point in the water tube adapter somewhere.

The o rings Zack installed seemed fine. I installed the new ones with proper silicon lube and installed smoothly. It really has me perplexed and am afraid I will not find the problem after removing everything. Keep in mind the intercooler, and lower intake had 11k miles on them and looked new. I could always try another water adapter and tubes but these seem fine as well. Hmmmmm..

[chief455]

Damn, this sucks. You got it done so fast!
Agreed = white smoke from exhaust and more prominent fluid loss under rpm or boost would steer me to the intercooler leaking into the lower intake manifold.
Test pressure? No Idea. 19lb does seem high.
I would be trying to pressurize while assembled and not running, after reaching operating temperature. Push air into that intercooler behind coolant, see if the fluid level drops.
Then you know it has to come apart. And your intercooler pinhole leak theory seems reasonable.

[martyo]

If I recall correctly, those bottles are fitted with a 13 psi cap. It may be 16 psi, but I really want to say 13.

Have you checked your oil lately?

[Zack]

Test at 35-40psi.
Or do what I told you and fill it with solvent or thinner.

You can pressure test it without removing it from the car.

Just use the 5/8 ends on the water outlet.

[Zack]

The noise you are hearing is probably the exhaust that got ridiculously hot from the coolant making the car lean.
I told you not to drive the car.
You have a DD.
Makes no sense brah

[8UWITH6]

Keep driving it and you will be buying 02's and cats. Check you oil and pull a couple spark plugs. Hope you get it figured out.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

I barely drive it, and the easiest way to know if the o-rings fixed it was to use it.

I had read somewhere to test at 40psi for the intercooler, but wasn't sure as the cap is rated for 13-16 as Marty stated. By the way the oil seems perfect.

I know there is a leak already so pressure testing it on the car would just introduce coolant into the motor when it's shut off. My idea is to pressure test the intercooler to look for a leak.

On my motorycle's cooling system, a pin hole leak was enough to consume a large quantity of coolant when at full operating temp in a short period of time. I realize the intercooler system here is a separate system only pressurized by the heat produced by the supercharger's compression, so staying out of boost would make sense to it not leaking as much. I'm just concerned I will not see the issue even after pressure testing the intercooler. The only other culprit at that point would be the water adapter and tubes which could be replaced cheap...just annoying.

[tbone]

Sounds like a leak in the intercooler. Maybe a bottle of stop leak? Or a new intercooler?

If you try the stop leak and if it goes away you know you need a new intercooler. Or leave it alone until it leaks again.

[justbob]

You can count on it being the intercooler. Probably a pin hole. Not sure how you would be able to test it unless you install the adapter and tubes a hold together with a ratchet strap. Do it in a bucket of water or a sink. I would think any radiator shop could easily repair it bro.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Sully008]

Definitely get the intercooler checked. Don't let this happen to you.

http://motorcitymarauders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12804

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Damn Sulley, going to have nightmares after reading your thread. Thanks for sharing! I will begin the tear down this week/weekend sometime. The crack on your intercooler was unrepairable?

[Sully008]

Damn Sulley, going to have nightmares after reading your thread. Thanks for sharing! I will begin the tear down this week/weekend sometime. The crack on your intercooler was unrepairable?

It probably is, I just never brought it anywhere to get it checked. I still have it as a reminder in my garage.

[chief455]

Definitely get the intercooler checked. Don't let this happen to you.

http://motorcitymarauders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12804

This is what ChiTown will find as well, I'm pretty sure.
In your link to MCM, the thread mentions a $5 tool to test before winter. The pic won't show. Can you post this device here?
I will do this before winter storage.
Thanks!

[Sully008]

This is what ChiTown will find as well, I'm pretty sure.
In your link to MCM, the thread mentions a $5 tool to test before winter. The pic won't show. Can you post this device here?
I will do this before winter storage.
Thanks!

Sure, get one of these:

http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/79/74/96/00/0079749600469_500X500.jpg

The sad thing is I already HAD one of those in my toolbox before all of that happened.:mad:

[chief455]

Sure, get one of these:



The sad thing is I already HAD one of those in my toolbox before all of that happened.:mad:
LOL!

I have one - you're right though, might not of thought to check freezing level on the intercooler set up.
I will this year :D

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

I was lazy and busy riding the hell out of the motorcycle this weekend, so I didn't begin the tear down. I did however buy the $5 tool it measures the strength of the coolant. Made by Prestone, sold at wal mart.

[tbone]

I was lazy and busy riding the hell out of the motorcycle this weekend, so I didn't begin the tear down. I did however buy the $5 tool it measures the strength of the coolant. Made by Prestone, sold at wal mart.

The problem you're having would drive me out of my mind until I fixed it. :eek:

My tuner is really perplexed why we both have to ground our alternators. Can you explain why this is happening to at least our 2 cars?

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Yeah If I think too much about it it pisses me off. So I just let it sit until I feel like messing with it again.

The problem is the coating used on the brackets was not kept off the bolt threads. This coating on the threads keeps from achieving a clean electrical connection between the alternator case, bracket, and engine mount. Placing a direct connection between a bolt on the alternator/alt case and the engine ground using 4 AWG is the best solution.

[chief455]

I was lazy and busy riding the hell out of the motorcycle this weekend, so I didn't begin the tear down. I did however buy the $5 tool it measures the strength of the coolant. Made by Prestone, sold at wal mart.
I've had one since my first winter storage 30 years ago. Must have in cold areas.
Once you tear it down and put a good intercooler in, you'll be in happyland, like me! 1500 trouble free miles after replacing one 0-ring in the first 50 miles. The car is so much fun and repeatable driving.
Surprisingly, I don't crave more power..

YET!!

[tbone]

I'm already thinking about a built lower end someday..... :rolleyes:

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

I've had one since my first winter storage 30 years ago. Must have in cold areas.
Once you tear it down and put a good intercooler in, you'll be in happyland, like me! 1500 trouble free miles after replacing one 0-ring in the first 50 miles. The car is so much fun and repeatable driving.
Surprisingly, I don't crave more power..

YET!!

I don't think I'll want more power, because that would involve motor internals, transmission, rear end and who knows what else kind of upgrades. I just want the problems to be squared away so I can enjoy it and spend time on visual mods now.

[justbob]

I don't think I'll want more power, because that would involve motor internals, transmission, rear end and who knows what else kind of upgrades. I just want the problems to be squared away so I can enjoy it and spend time on visual mods now.


Yeah.... That's what we call thinking only one year at a time..


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Yeah.... That's what we call thinking only one year at a time..


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

Lol that's my fear. I guess I can always do headers next year. ;)

[chief455]

I'm already thinking about a built lower end someday..... :rolleyes:
I have been as well, since I bought my Eaton.
If I had the cash, all would have been done once.

I don't think I'll want more power, because that would involve motor internals, transmission, rear end and who knows what else kind of upgrades. I just want the problems to be squared away so I can enjoy it and spend time on visual mods now.
Yes, you will. :cool:
Save, buy pieces and you'll have the stronger parts ready when you are.
I agree, correct your issue and spend qualty time behind the wheel.
Best summer I've had in years due to Eaton swap :banana:

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Any other suggestions on removing an eaton with way too much gasket maker on it?

I can put all my weight and then some on the huge bar and nothing. The motor actually moves down some but the blower won't budge.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/21/a8eha2ap.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/21/8a2a5uby.jpg


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[martyo]

Dead blow hammer and discretion.

[martyo]

And why did you use so much gasket maker?

[justbob]

Cutaway what you can with a sharp utility knife and I have also had to carefully drive a very small and very thin chisel under one of the front corners. Go slow, keep just moderate pressure on your bar and when it starts to break free cut a little more with your knife. They can be a serious PITA.

Also you can try holding up on the snout and carefully tap the bottom with a dead blow.

But stop trying to just pry. That's a good way to damage stuff. Slow and easy..


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Thanks guys I will try that.

Marty, I didn't. I guess Zack got a little excited.


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[martyo]

Marty, I didn't. I guess Zack got a little excited.


Rumor has it that Zack squirts a lot when he gets excited.

You will have to ask Jerry to confirm that. I am betting he has some experience.

[8UWITH6]

Bad visual fellas, LOL

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

I gave up. The fine knifes I have barely penetrate the seal. Hammered at it for hours and it won't budge at all. Don't know what to do. I guess I can always replace the rings again, throw stop leak in it and pray for the best.

This whole swap has been an expensive cluster ****. I should have left it slow and usable, instead of a theoretically faster paperweight. I got ahead of myself on this one and rushed things through. :(

[lji372]

If you pull the motor I can cut it off.....

Have you tried hammering in a 5 in 1 (it's a thick paint scraper drywall guys use)

[justbob]

If you pull the motor I can cut it off.....

Have you tried hammering in a 5 in 1 (it's a thick paint scraper drywall guys use)


5 in 1, fine point chisel, ETC Telling you bro, that's the easiest way.

Don't get discouraged, once down it will remain trustworthy till the next level, then you best save up..


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Zack]

I told you how to remove it in text message sir.
Remove all bolts then take a big dead blow hammer and beat down on the snout (not the pulley)

Let me ask you sir, how do you know I used too much gasket maker if you have not seperated the 2 pieces yet?

[Zack]

And just to be sure, lets verify that:
-The water outlet is completely removed
-You have 10 blower to lower manifold bolts removed

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Oh maybe because its welded on and some black gasket maker was oozed down from between the two pieces.

Yes the outlet is removed, and the (10) blower bolts removed. :banghead:

Anyone have the gasket Ford part number?

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

So good thing I kept beating at my car. I ended up popping it off with a crowbar after many heat and cool cycles with a heat gun as well as some love filled taps of a sledge hammer.

Oh what's this in the lower intake.... A murky pool of oily coolant.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/23/unutaqyv.jpg

Seems I've screwed myself with not purchasing a brand new OEM intercooler which was up for sale on eBay the day I couldn't get this thing off. The intercooler I pulled seems to have a pin hole leak somewhere inside a corner as it's not visible but can be heard when filling it up and shaking it back and forth.

Lesson learned eaton swap noobs, pressure test your used intercoolers before installing them. I trusted my dipshit seller with the parts (lower intake and intercooler) as they looked brand new, he said they were pulled in perfectly working order and had 10k miles. Now the only alternative is to take a chance on another used part or pony up $700 for the LFP intercooler.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/23/va2ahagu.jpg


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[MOTOWN]

I would hate to see what your engine bearings look like! the intercooler should have been pressure tested before installation be it new , or used!

[martyo]

Now the only alternative is to take a chance on another used part or pony up $700 for the LFP intercooler.


I am an LFP dealer. Let me know if you need me to price he part for you. We offer pretty good pricing.

[loud2004marquis]

the intercooler should have been pressure tested before installation be it new , or used!

^^^THIS^^^

A local radiator shop was even nice enough to test mine for free...

It seems like all the swaps have headaches, don't think we could appreciate things quite the same without them. Glad you didn't put the stop leak in there. Do it right, you've gone this far.

Maybe see if you can have the I/C tested to see if you have more then one leak? Then you can have it welded and then verify the fix with another pressure test?
Gotta be cheaper going that route...Then again, maybe at this point you just want to start with a fresh new one...

Either way, don''t give up and good luck with it...your so close!

:burnout::burnout:

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

I'm not too worried, the oil on the dipstick looks clean somehow, and the car was running great. Besides it's been babied its whole 20k miles of life. Regardless, it will still get fresh oil and plugs before being starting again. There's been instances where cobras were ran like this and have even hydrolocked the motor with coolant spillage into the intakes, and are still fine thereafter.

I'm going to see if this intercooler can be repaired. Although I'd rather have a new unit for piece of mind.