Broke Down FRPS P0190 Need Advice!

[tbone]

I hit the pedal to the floor on the way home, went like crazy and then the car suddenley lost power and slowly stalled. Was able to restart and limp home, stalling, restarting and stalling......

Code thrown is the P0190 fuel rail pressure sensor. Installed a new one but it did not fix it. Checked the 30 amp fuse under the hood. Ok. Checked the Boost a Pump fuse. Ok. Checked relay 203 by switching with another one. Ok. Checked the hose connections and looks ok. Car starts, barely runs, stalls.

What else should I check? Kind of sounds like the fuel pump went bad but I just changed it out about 2 years ago with the Walbro GT40 pump.

The tuner has my 20 amp Boost a Pump pegged at max. Was this possibly too much?

[Comin' in Hot]

Look at the wiring harness where it wraps around the front of the car, mainly where it passes the core support to lower front fender brace. The brace took out my fuel pump wire once and its a known chaffing point.

[Comin' in Hot]

its easy to look at if you put the car up on ramps and look through the flaps to change the fog light bulbs

[martyo]

The FRPS is designed to sense low pressure so if the FRPS is not popped (they do break under boosted applications), it is sensing low pressure.

We generally do not run the BAP maxed out because it can lead to blown fuses, which you say you have already checked for.

My next step would be to use your Xcal to see what your fuel pressure readings look like - my guess is you will find you pump is going down.

Also, do you have a fuel pressure gauge on board?

[tbone]

The FRPS is designed to sense low pressure so if the FRPS is not popped (they do break under boosted applications), it is sensing low pressure.

We generally do not run the BAP maxed out because it can lead to blown fuses, which you say you have already checked for.

My next step would be to use your Xcal to see what your fuel pressure readings look like - my guess is you will find you pump is going down.

Also, do you have a fuel pressure gauge on board?



How do you check fuel pressure when the car won't run? Pressure when cranking?

Where do you usually set BAPs?

No fuel pressure gauge.

Does an oem pump work well with the BAP? I need this fixed fast and don't have time to wait for UPS. Or, what pump works well with the 20amp BAP?

Thanks.

[Zack]

Did you replace the junk corrugated fuel line in the tank?
If not, you most likely blew a hole in it.

[martyo]

Did you replace the junk corrugated fuel line in the tank?
If not, you most likely blew a hole in it.

That or a line could have come off the pump.

I thought the OP said that the car was running which is why I suggested the data logging.

If the car is not running, go to an auto parts store and rent a fuel pressure gauge that you can hook to the Shrader valve and see what the pressure looks like.

Of course, like Zack is saying, if it is in the tank take a look at what is going on there. I would have a pump on hand and we recommend the Aeromotive 340 for a set up like yours.

[tbone]

I tried cranking it this morning and it did not catch at all.

It was such a sudden loss of power I thought for sure it was a fuse. But it sure looks like the pump failed.

[tbone]

So the Aeromotive 340 works well with the 20 amp BAP?

[martyo]

So the Aeromotive 340 works well with the 20 amp BAP?

Yep.


.........

[tbone]

Gotta be it. Just ordered one up from ebay for $155.00.

[RacerX]

Take the old FRPS, see if you can blow through it. If you can, you blew it and there will be a ton of fuel sitting in your lower intake manifold. Pull a plug to see if it's soaked also.

[tbone]

I tried blowing through the old one. Nothing. New one didn't solve the issue. Fuses are good. What's left? The damn pump.

[RacerX]

Just making sure. Ever see the video of Jake's car when one does blow?

[tbone]

No but I'd like to.

Thanks for the advice.

[tbone]

What should the BAP typically be set at with the Aero pump?

[Zack]

I will bet money its a hose and not the pump.

You diagnose, then buy parts. Not the opposite

[Zack]

What should the BAP typically be set at with the Aero pump?

Only your wideband can answer that. You most likely don't need the bap with that pump

[tbone]

I will bet money its a hose and not the pump.

You diagnose, then buy parts. Not the opposite

I have to work 9-9 today and tomorrow. 9-6 on Saturday. 3 days before I can pull the pump and then order parts. I can always return it. I'd rather have what I need on hand when I have it jacked up and pulled apart.

My buddy at the parts store said he'll take the FRPS back no problem.

[tbone]

Only your wideband can answer that. You most likely don't need the bap with that pump

I have the BAP installed. It's going nowhere. Marty says it's a good combo so I'll go with it.

[tbone]

I forgot to turn on the key and listen to see if the pump makes a thump. First thing I'm going to do when I get home.

[martyo]

I forgot to turn on the key and listen to see if the pump makes a thump. First thing I'm going to do when I get home.

That alone will not be definitive.

Pull the pump and look at the line like Zack suggested. You will have to do this to do the pump anyway.

[tbone]

As long as I'm pulling it all apart (again) I would rather have the upgraded pump anyway. Yes I will look at all the plumbing. Thanks.

[martyo]

As long as I'm pulling it all apart (again) I would rather have the upgraded pump anyway. Yes I will look at all the plumbing. Thanks.

Makes sense. If it was one of my POVs, I would probably do the same.

[justbob]

Pull plugs, get a boroscope, and see if you remodeled your pistons..


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

Pull plugs, get a boroscope, and see if you remodeled your pistons..


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"


Thanks Bob. Now I have THAT to worry about.

They'll be fine. The car shut down too quick to do any damage.

[martyo]

Thanks Bob. Now I have THAT to worry about.

They'll be fine. The car shut down too quick to do any damage.

You can measure hydrolock in nano seconds.

[tbone]

Ok guys. Enough negativity. I won't sleep tonight.

[martyo]

Ok guys. Enough negativity. I won't sleep tonight.

I was giving you solutions.

Does the motor roll over?

[tbone]

Yes it starts and dies. No gas.

[martyo]

Yes it starts and dies. No gas.

Unlikely to be hydro locked.

[whitey]

What about a clogged fuel filter? Possibly sucking gas that fast stirred up some gunk and clogged your filter. Thats a easy check, probably not the issue, but worth a shot....

[sailsmen]

When you check/install the fuel pump be cognizant of the socks and the clearance they need.

[tbone]

Brand new musclemerc filter. Pump two years old. Pegging the BAP should not kill the pump according to what I read on the Kenne Bell site. Pump coming tomorrow. I'll report what I find.

[tbone]

What about a clogged fuel filter? Possibly sucking gas that fast stirred up some gunk and clogged your filter. Thats a easy check, probably not the issue, but worth a shot....

I have 7/8 of a tank so I plan on jacking up the car and pulling the front line of the filter and draining into a gas can. That should tell me if the filter is clogged. I'm sure it's fine though.

[Zack]

I have 7/8 of a tank so I plan on jacking up the car and pulling the front line of the filter and draining into a gas can. That should tell me if the filter is clogged. I'm sure it's fine though.

Fuel will not pour out regardless. That is not the way to properly test the filter.

[tbone]

What's the best way to get the gas out so I can do the job? Gotta be below the hole.

[Zack]

Hotwire the pump and disconnect the fuel line at the rail.
Can be done from inside the trunk

[tbone]

I have the fuel line removal tool but could never get it to disconnect it......
No idea what wires to use to hot wire the pump, or if it will even pump anything. The car cranks but won't sputter to life even a little bit.

[tbone]

Fuel will not pour out regardless. That is not the way to properly test the filter.

If it was completely clogged no gas would come out. When I changed it from OEM plenty was coming out of the old one.

[8UWITH6]

Its not the fuel filter. Screw a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and key up. See what you have. Then crank it and see what you have. If you have no pressure you don't need to worry about trying to drain the tank by hotwiring the pump. Make sure you go to Napa and get fuel submersible hose for inside the tank part number H209 and a couple of fuel injection clamps.

[MM2004]

Why not try this?

After cranking it for a few seconds, press in the schrader valve on the fuel rail (using caution of course) to see if you have any pressure whatsoever?

If you hook a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve you may read anywhere from 24 - 39lbs.

That is where my fuel pressure gauge is connected and always read 24lbs when on the gas, 39lbs when off.

Yes, I am running 39lb injectors.

Mike.

[tbone]

Its not the fuel filter. Screw a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and key up. See what you have. Then crank it and see what you have. If you have no pressure you don't need to worry about trying to drain the tank by hotwiring the pump. Make sure you go to Napa and get fuel submersible hose for inside the tank part number H209 and a couple of fuel injection clamps.

I don't want to drain the tank completely. I just need to lower it so I can do the work.

It definitely is not the fuel filter.

[Jeronimojc]

What's the best way to get the gas out so I can do the job? Gotta be below the hole.


I recently used a $7 hand pump from Harbor Freight to drain about 6 gal of fuel from the tank of my wrecked MM.


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[8UWITH6]

Yes, I had just over 1/4 tank when I did my pump last Sunday. Nothing spilled out even with the ass end up the air. Let us know what you find. This is what my pump looked like when I put it back in.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10297715_10204155696633159_627 2990400330212323_n.jpg

[tbone]

I recently used a $7 hand pump from Harbor Freight to drain about 6 gal of fuel from the tank of my wrecked MM.


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I have a hand pump and plan on using it. Where did you connect to?

I plan on tapping in right after my Musclemerc filter conversion.

[justbob]

Have you even tried to start it with the pedal matted to shut off the fuel? What if in all these start attempts, or possibly your FRPS was bad causing a complete flood out?

I can't believe you would be willing to not only buy, but install a pump without even checking the fuel pressure accurately and also the spark plugs?? Makes no sense to guess. You could be right, but maybe not. Your guessing. Stop it Tom. :)

Don't touch a damn thing till you diagnose and fix what's broke. You are only creating more areas of untested concerns if they fail. Did you solder and heat shrink the FP wires that you decided to cut? That's my guess. Been just long enough for corrosion to set in...


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

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"Since 2004"

[tbone]

1. It conked out like it had no fuel. Yes I tried to start it with the pedal to the floor.
2. I limped home with it starting and stalling. No flooding possible.
3. It threw the p0190 code.
4. No pressure at the rail. Nothing when I pushed the valve or removed the sensor.
5. New sensor did not fix it. Got my money back. No harm, no foul.
6. All fuses good.
7. I didn't "decide" to cut a wire. I had to. No choice. Not enough slack to get it out and the wire runs up and hides behind everything. No I did not solder and heat shrink it. I'll bet you $100 there will not be a minute trace of corrosion when I untape it. I hear it whir when I turn the key so it is getting power. My guess is a bad diaphragm.

It has every sign of a bad pump. This isn't my first time facing this issue in this or other cars I've owned. They may be guesses but they are ones based on past experiences.

[Jeronimojc]

I have a hand pump and plan on using it. Where did you connect to?


Pump and hose. I put the pump intake hose inside the tank, like people do when siphoning gas.


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[tbone]

They have some kind of blocking mechanism in the filler tube to prevent people from siphoning gas. I've tried with the smallest tube in my arsenal of tubes.

I siphoned gas from my parents cars a 1000 times in my youth directly into my go kart tank. Using my mouth for suction.

[justbob]

1. It conked out like it had no fuel. Yes I tried to start it with the pedal to the floor.
2. I limped home with it starting and stalling. No flooding possible.
3. It threw the p0190 code.
4. No pressure at the rail. Nothing when I pushed the valve or removed the sensor.
5. New sensor did not fix it.
6. All fuses good.
7. I didn't "decide" to cut a wire. I had to. No choice. Not enough slack to get it out and the wire runs up and hides behind everything. No I did not solder and heat shrink it. I'll bet you $100 there will not be a minute trace of corrosion when I untape it. I hear it whir when I turn the key so it is getting power. My guess is a bad diaphragm.

It has every sign of a bad pump. This isn't my first time facing this issue in this or other cars I've owned. They may be guesses but they are ones based on past experiences.

I appreciate your help but you don't have to get smarmy about it.


Relax butthead, you know me... :)

Just running down the quick checklist is all. Yes, if all that was done, i'd lay my bet on the pump or the line popped off. As for the wires, on your next car untape the FP wires (one little piece is all there is) from the harness and it will warrant more than enough slack to remove it. While your under there, take the thirty minutes and $20 to properly install a weather pack male and female connector. Get the ones without wires, they come with the pins to solder on and snap nicely into the connector, then simply slide the seal down in to keep it dry. Then the next one you do you can simply unplug it. Not too mention never giving a thought to corrosion or bad crimp next time you have issues. Never mind, you always have issues. :D

Don't think for second this is the last time under there. You may upgrade in the future, plus I have seen bad pumps right out of the box.

At minimum, you should hook a fuel gauge to the rail and hit the key before proceeding. There isn't fuel pressure all the time. Your testing the shrader and swapping the FRPS and having no pressure is completely normal.

Also get used to the po190 code, it's a common thing in S/C'ed cars. Clear it and move on.

Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

I tried to get the slack I needed last time and could not find any other way to get it.
I'll try again.

Quick connectors is a good idea. I have used them plenty of times.

The p0190 code came on after the shutdown. If the car was acting normally I would not be as zeroed in on it.

I removed the smarmy comment but you were too quick to quote it. ;)

Frankly, I suck at diagnosing cars in general. Especially electrical issues.

These symptoms are exactly the same ones I had the last time I had a bad fuel pump.

[Jeronimojc]

They have some kind of blocking mechanism in the filler tube to prevent people from siphoning gas. I've tried with the smallest tube in my arsenal of tubes.


It worked for me on my 03 MM.



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[justbob]

It worked for me on my 03 MM.



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We had a freak snow storm and were stranded at home once with no power. I needed gas for the generator and I couldn't for the life if me get anything to fit. I read it has a roll over safety device that blocks you from doing so.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[justbob]

So I guess that means you won't come over to help with my small electrical issue? :)
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/13/6epunuda.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/13/yte3e4aq.jpg





Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

ummmmmmmmmmmm

[tbone]

We had a freak snow storm and were stranded at home once with no power. I needed gas for the generator and I couldn't for the life if me get anything to fit. I read it has a roll over safety device that blocks you from doing so.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"


I think all cars have this feature now. Not sure when they started doing it. Good or bad depends on whether you need the gas or not.

[Jeronimojc]

Wonder if 03s don't have this feature or the hose I used was just the right size. I know I can pump gas out of my. 03.


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[tbone]

Have you guys used the Aeromotive 340 pump with the 20 amp Boost a Pump? I probably don't need the BAP from what I've read along with this pump. Should I just turn it off or turn it down to maybe 2 or 3 and watch my air fuel ratio?

[Blackmobile]

I've got the setup and I leave the BaP setting midway!

[justbob]

I have that pump and a 40 amp about a quarter of the way up. But I was also tuned at 19#s

On my old set up with 11.7#s I had a Walbro 342 and same 40amp at the same setting.

Don't play with fire or lack there of until you know exactly what to data log. Don't just use the AFR as your only means. The AFR is very resourceful but now that you've entered the world of boost you need to learn some of the data logging features that are most important and what variables they need to remain in.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Zack]

Just blow it up so you have an excuse to get a free engine from the website

[tbone]

I don't have datalogging on my xcal, and I'm not paying Tim another cent to put my car back on the dyno. My 9415SF was converted to a 9400 xcal2 and cannot be converted back so I can data log.

Is it the end of the world to just leave it pegged? That's what he did with my old pump.

[tbone]

Just blow it up so you have an excuse to get a free engine from the website


Funny!!!!!!!!!:beer:

[justbob]

All it takes is detonation one time..


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[jwibbity]

BAP's suck ass, I will never put one on a car.....

[martyo]

Have you guys used the Aeromotive 340 pump with the 20 amp Boost a Pump? I probably don't need the BAP from what I've read along with this pump. Should I just turn it off or turn it down to maybe 2 or 3 and watch my air fuel ratio?

Take it to a Dyno shop and spin it up or watch your A/F

[martyo]

Is it the end of the world to just leave it pegged? That's what he did with my old pump. I don't think pegging it unnecessarily can harm the pump, but I'm obviously not sure.

It's not so bad to run the car super fat and wash the ring lands down....

Oh wait.

[martyo]

By the way did the pump fix the no run situation?

[Zack]

Return it to NA so Curless can work on it.

[tbone]

Fixing it tomorrow Marty.

Zack you are a dickwad.

[tbone]

It's not so bad to run the car super fat and wash the ring lands down....

Oh wait.


Which is why I wondered why my "Super Tuner" just pegged the mother****er and told me the MAFia I bought was not necessary, after he told told me he adjusted it, but didn't touch it, and on and on and on....

[MyBlackBeasts]

Which is why I wondered why my "Super Tuner" just pegged the mother****er and told me the MAFia I bought was not necessary, after he told told me he adjusted it, but didn't touch it, and on and on and on....

Joe made sense to me here tbone, maybe why your tuner did it.

I set my bap to max, no popped fuses or any problems since instal. Jeff @ Marty's dialed the tune up to 409hp. No probs, no complaints.

[martyo]

Which is why I wondered why my "Super Tuner" just pegged the mother****er and told me the MAFia I bought was not necessary, after he told told me he adjusted it, but didn't touch it, and on and on and on....

Tim knows what he's doing speak to him and ask him what his approach was.

[tbone]

What pump do you have Sandman?

[MyBlackBeasts]

What pump do you have Sandman?

Still have OEM

[tbone]

New pump installed. Car runs great. Still needs some tuning on the slow to come down hanging idle and shift schedule/firmness. Played with the BAP and settled on position 4 for now. I guess my diagnosis was correct and no need to get all up in arms over it......:argue:

I had an occasional stumble/sputter before that is gone. Must have been the pump slowly giving up. Glad it didn't cause a major implosion of my motor.

Bob, you will be glad to know there was zero corrosion in the wires I had to cut and tape last time. I am an expert at taping up wires. :rolleyes: Looked again and I'm telling you there is absolutely no possible way to get any slack so you can get the assembly out without cutting those wires. The loom goes to the side of the tank and disappears up and over it. At least that is how MY car was assembled.

You want to pay cash or send me a check for the $100? ;)

Oh, and the idea of tapping into the Musclemerc fuel filter line with a hand pump worked great as well. Removed 7 gallons in about 20-25 minutes. The 5 gallon tank on my lawn tractor is full for the first time in years!

[justbob]

Haha good for you tom. But. I'll double that bet any day of the week under any Marauder Bud. I've done more than enough of these on plenty of these cars to know you are WRONG! LOL

Seriously, glad you got it, but you had it easy. Fact is your car will in fact break stuff quicker and you are going to have to learn diagnostics. I don't even bother starting a thread when mine breaks, just to get all the misinformed knowledge I read day in day out. Nope, I do my own research, read perhaps too much, buy tools at any expense and learn.

As for your tape job. Seriously I would not be bragging about that. Like for real. As the shop manager at my shop, I have seen it all in regards to butt connectors and tape.. I diagnose and repair everything from trucks to semi's, to excavators. At minimum for a quick repair, just use the steel inserts and shrink wrap.

As for the hanging idle it must be a Tim special.. My car does it, Kentucky Mikes car did, and now yours.. I was told I would need a new IAC. Okay done. No fix..

So when you hitting the track?


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

I did troubleshoot it if you look back and read what I did.

I won't be asking for advice on here anymore unless I get stuck and can't figure it out. Not worth the brain damage. I mispoke. I think I'm ok at diagnostics except for electrical crap.

I didn't want any heat near the tank. Call me a chicken. Anywhere else and I would have soldered and shrink wrapped it. It will be just fine. This isn't my first time repairing cars either.

[tbone]

Tim says he has to have the hanging idle with the s/c or it will stall. I find that hard to believe.....but I'm just a dumb supercharger newbie. He did my n/a tune and it was perfect.

I'm going to take it to Hans for a tune when funds allow.

[MM2004]

Tim says he has to have the hanging idle with the s/c or it will stall. I find that hard to believe.....but I'm just a dumb supercharger newbie. He did my n/a tune and it was perfect.

I'm going to take it to Hans for a tune when funds allow.

:bs:

My hanging idle was god-awful. Several IAC's later and no improvement whatsoever.

My car felt good, but the fact is, and never posted this until now,...

The trans tune in my car sucked!

To the point I hated driving the damn thing.

Hanging idle, surging, bucking, torque convertor flashing all over the place, lock-in/lock-out at random, and the gas mileage was piss poor at best.

Before re-tuning, God as my witness, the car sat for a month in storage. Not once did I check on it, nothing. That was after the last time I parked it there, gave it the finger and drove away.

Now, I am where I need to be. Tweaks are to follow, but the trans is doing what it's suppose to, and drivability is top notch.

The hanging idle is nowhere near as bad as before, but was told due to my single blade TB, it is commonplace. So, no worries here.

Once again, I enjoy driving my MM and even though it has conservative numbers, she runs like a scolded jack ass.

Mike.

[Zack]

I can fix all these issues in less than a minute

[tbone]

I can fix all these issues in less than a minute


Call your buddy Tim and share your secrets with him.

[Zack]

FYI Tim loads my trans tune in all marauders. Maybe he didn't in yours Mike.
If he did load it and you don't like it, you suck

[tbone]

:bs:

Once again, I enjoy driving my MM and even though it has conservative numbers, she runs like a scolded jack ass.

Mike.

Who did the first tune and the final tune?

[tbone]

I just got back from Chili's. The car has never run so good. I let it idle in the driveway for about 45 minutes, just to let it get its' feet wet with the new pump and shut her off. Went to eat and noticed suddenly while parking that the high idle issue was gone. Gave her some medium throttle inputs down the road and watched the a/f ratio. Looking good. Finally decided to got for WOT. Made a right at the light and slammed it at 15 mph and screeched the tires perfectly and tore down the road. The 1-2 shift was much improved, still not where I want it to be....no chirp like I want, but no sputtering, shuddering or long delayed lazy shift like before. FINALLY a big smile on my face roughly 2 1/2 months into the project. :banana2:


The wifes face.....well, not smiling. :eek: I won't do that again with her in the car.

[justbob]

FYI Tim loads my trans tune in all marauders. Maybe he didn't in yours Mike.
If he did load it and you don't like it, you suck


He didn't load it in mine? :dunno:


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[martyo]

If your car has hanging idle bring it down here and we will retune your car. Your car will not leave with hanging idle or we will not charge you. Period.

[martyo]

I won't be asking for advice on here anymore unless I get stuck and can't figure it out. Not worth the brain damage. I mispoke. I think I'm ok at diagnostics except for electrical crap.


That is throwing out the baby with the bath water.

You stated your problem. I offered you a suggested solution and that is, in fact, what fixed the car. No brain damage was intended or inflicted as a result of that.

[tbone]

You're fine.

[guspech750]

Good job Tom.


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[MM2004]

FYI Tim loads my trans tune in all marauders. Maybe he didn't in yours Mike.
If he did load it and you don't like it, you suck

I am familiar with your trans tune Zack. And what mine was doing wasn't anywhere close to it.

[MM2004]

Who did the first tune and the final tune?

Tim tuned it the first time.

Lee Blankenship, just recently.

[sflrainmaker01]

I just got back from Chili's. The car has never run so good. I let it idle in the driveway for about 45 minutes, just to let it get its' feet wet with the new pump and shut her off. Went to eat and noticed suddenly while parking that the high idle issue was gone. Gave her some medium throttle inputs down the road and watched the a/f ratio. Looking good. Finally decided to got for WOT. Made a right at the light and slammed it at 15 mph and screeched the tires perfectly and tore down the road. The 1-2 shift was much improved, still not where I want it to be....no chirp like I want, but no sputtering, shuddering or long delayed lazy shift like before. FINALLY a big smile on my face roughly 2 1/2 months into the project. :banana2:


The wifes face.....well, not smiling. :eek: I won't do that again with her in the car.

Lmao, sounds like the same reaction I would get from my wife with me doing "that" in my car! I'm glad you got it fixed, though! Sounds like the Aeromotive pump is the right pump for the job. While scrounging for Eaton Swap parts, sounds like I should NOT need the BAP if using the 340?

[tbone]

I have my BAP set at 4 with it. No idea if it is correct or not. Seems to run great with it on this setting. Depends on who you talk to on whether you need it or not. I would like to see more input from people on this as well.

[Motorhead350]

Good work Tom. Remember, I told you it would break. This stuff is not fun for a DD.

Regardless, tear up the streets and lay down some 11s for me.

BTW who here got a free engine? I do not recall that sense 2006?

[tbone]

Drove it fairly hard today. Nothing broke, rattled, or fell off. Runs great. No complaints.

Still waiting on revised shift pressure tune from tuner who has suddenly disappeared. Vacation maybe?

[tbone]

Tim says he has the shift pressure at max in my tune, just like my NA tune before where it shifted perfect. But the car has lazy shifts now. Something isn't right.

He says he has "no idea" why it would be like this, and is leaving it at that. Now what the hell am I supposed to do?

Zack, when I had your tune it shifted great too. Like you said, he loads your shift tune. (??????)

[Zack]

I cant tell you what's going on unless i looked at the tune itself.

[justbob]

Cliff notes:

Disappeared, vacation, leaving it that, no idea, what am I supposed to do...


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Limited360]

Tim says he has the shift pressure at max in my tune, just like my NA tune before where it shifted perfect. But the car has lazy shifts now. Something isn't right.

He says he has "no idea" why it would be like this, and is leaving it at that. Now what the hell am I supposed to do?

Zack, when I had your tune it shifted great too. Like you said, he loads your shift tune. (??????)

WOT shifts are lazy? Slow? Slips?


Also what are your MIL eliminators? If you have a tuner you should be able to just shut the codes off...

[Zack]

Cliff notes:

Disappeared, vacation, leaving it that, no idea, what am I supposed to do...


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

His 21 year old son was shot and killed last month Bob. He's doing the best he can.

[tbone]

Wot shifts are slow and lazy, but getting somewhat better. Playing with the xcal to try and dial it in. I used to be able to chirp the tires on my 1-2 shift. Nowhere close now.

I need the MIL eliminators for my "cats on" tune so I can pass emissions. Otherwise I will revert to my "cats off" tune.

[tbone]

His 21 year old son was shot and killed last month Bob. He's doing the best he can.

I've been keeping that in mind and am always polite when I call or email.

Still, $1675 is a lot or money to pay and then be told "no idea" on the poor shifts after waiting more than a week for any response.

[sflrainmaker01]

Wot shifts are slow and lazy, but getting somewhat better. Playing with the xcal to try and dial it in. I used to be able to chirp the tires on my 1-2 shift. Nowhere close now.

I need the MIL eliminators for my "cats on" tune so I can pass emissions. Otherwise I will revert to my "cats off" tune.

I would have thought, now that you have the Eaton Swap, you'd be able to boil the tires on the 1-2 shift at WOT (or even less pedal). :dunno: Hope you get it figured out.

[Zack]

Buy a pro racers package and forever be in control of your settings.

[JoeBoomz]

Buy a pro racers package and forever be in control of your settings.


+1

Worth every penny.

[tbone]

I looked into it. I may just do it.

[Zack]

FYI Tom, Hans does not tune cars.
He has a select few cars remote tuned by Bob Kurgan

[Limited360]

Buy a pro racers package and forever be in control of your settings.


+1 on this.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk so I may sound retarded.

[justbob]

His 21 year old son was shot and killed last month Bob. He's doing the best he can.


Damn. I couldn't imagine. Nah, I was just reflecting back on my personal dealings over a five month period last year is all.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

Raising the rev limit to 7000 rpm and dropping the 1-2 shift to -2 mph per Zacks advice has helped quite a bit. Still too soft on the 1-2 but bearable. I miss the chirp.

[justbob]

Raising the rev limit to 7000 rpm and dropping the 1-2 shift to -2 mph per Zacks advice has helped quite a bit. Still too soft on the 1-2 but bearable. I miss the chirp.


Go back in and this time remove the spring.




Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Limited360]

Are you sure you are not spinning more through the 1-2 shift and the chirp just isn't audible since your spinning instead of just slipping a little? With 4.10's and an eaton making 400wtq you should be burning those tires on the 1-2.

Still running 255 rear tires?

[tbone]

Oh yeah, I'm sure. I know my car quite well.

[tbone]

Go back in and this time remove the spring.




Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

I might have to. OR go and get a new tuner.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

7000 is quite high. Lower it to 6000 and test. I feel the car shifted harder at 5800-6200 than at 65+.

[tbone]

It doesn't rev that high. It just makes it so the rev limiter isn't reached and the car sputters. Lowering the shift speed to -2 or -3 lowers the max shift rpm. My car was sputtering on occasion.

[tbone]

Latest thing is the car stumbles at light throttle input when the torque converter locks up once in a while. Now I'm thinking a lot of my troubles could be attributed to the TC. More $$$ :puke:

[Limited360]

Oh yeah, I'm sure. I know my car quite well.


Understood. Based on your posts it seems that's true. [emoji12]

Seriously tho, get pro racer and adjust your shift points properly, the global adjust isn't the best approach. Plus raising the limiter isn't the fix, keep it where it's at and fix the shift request. You need to request the shift sooner with 4.10's and a blower since the rate of rpm rise is significantly faster than when NA.

Recent car I tuned, made 413hp/385tq only and would slide sideways no issues on the 1-2 shift on 255's.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk so I may sound retarded.