ts-pa
07-25-2014, 10:26 PM
It all began with the ride height sensor. Swapped it out. Then the compressor replaced, twice. Not surprising since the replacements were pick & pull parts. Finally I had enough with the air springs now leaking.
Previously I had bought the Eaton rear springs (MC3895-1) with a one inch drop for my 2000 LS, but never got to put them in. So I put them into the Marauder instead. The Marauder has the Eibach lowered front springs already, so now the car has an interesting rake. All I need next is a mullet to really fit the stereotype, LOL! The free height of the springs measured about 14-3/8”.
I had previously purchased Energy Suspension #9.6101 spring isolators. I was doing the same mod that a crownvic.net member had done with cutting an opening in the thin lip area for the pigtail. When I placed them on the coil spring, I thought that the fit was good, but the pigtail could still rub the perch once installed. So I also purchased a set of Moog K6203-2 spring isolators. The two fit together very well. Over kill perhaps, but I didn’t want any spring creaking noises. I taped the isolators onto the upper end of the spring, the end with tighter wound coils, to hold them in place during installation.
I tried to do one side at a time, but the axle doesn’t drop low enough. With two jack stands on the frame just in front of the rear wheels, I removed the wheels and lower shock bolts to let the axle hang lower.
Removed the upper wire clip from the air spring. I found that a hex key hooked through the wire and pulled with a channel lock worked really well. Then popped off the air spring from the lower perch,, removing the clip from the lower perch on the axle. I disconnected the solenoid and zip tied it up in case I decide to return to using the air springs again. Be careful of your eyes when removing the old air spring as they collect a lot of debris at the top.
The springs are a little harder to install that what the youtube videos show for a similar rear coil spring kit. These Eaton springs are a cargo coil type, with the progressive coil pitch to handle loads with less sagging. Essentially ended up “bench pressing” the spring into place. Once on the axle perch, rotate the spring to keep the pigtails of both to be the same orientation. After rotating, shifting the upper spring end may be needed to have it centered onto the upper perch.
The ride is nice and firm. Kind of reminds me of a CVPI. Not too harsh, but more to my liking as I always thought that the air springs were too soft when unloaded. The easiest way I can describe the ride differences is when the rear tires roll over a crack in the road, such as a gap of two concrete sections. With the air springs, you barely notice the crack. With the coil springs, you can definitely notice the same crack. Not objectionable to me, but to each their own as to preference.
I didn’t do the wire disconnect yet, but now notice that my steering feel is a bit hard. As in feeling like it has very low power assist. Kind of like a truck without power steering. Is it correct that the RAS module controls power steering? Do I need to replace this module?
Previously I had bought the Eaton rear springs (MC3895-1) with a one inch drop for my 2000 LS, but never got to put them in. So I put them into the Marauder instead. The Marauder has the Eibach lowered front springs already, so now the car has an interesting rake. All I need next is a mullet to really fit the stereotype, LOL! The free height of the springs measured about 14-3/8”.
I had previously purchased Energy Suspension #9.6101 spring isolators. I was doing the same mod that a crownvic.net member had done with cutting an opening in the thin lip area for the pigtail. When I placed them on the coil spring, I thought that the fit was good, but the pigtail could still rub the perch once installed. So I also purchased a set of Moog K6203-2 spring isolators. The two fit together very well. Over kill perhaps, but I didn’t want any spring creaking noises. I taped the isolators onto the upper end of the spring, the end with tighter wound coils, to hold them in place during installation.
I tried to do one side at a time, but the axle doesn’t drop low enough. With two jack stands on the frame just in front of the rear wheels, I removed the wheels and lower shock bolts to let the axle hang lower.
Removed the upper wire clip from the air spring. I found that a hex key hooked through the wire and pulled with a channel lock worked really well. Then popped off the air spring from the lower perch,, removing the clip from the lower perch on the axle. I disconnected the solenoid and zip tied it up in case I decide to return to using the air springs again. Be careful of your eyes when removing the old air spring as they collect a lot of debris at the top.
The springs are a little harder to install that what the youtube videos show for a similar rear coil spring kit. These Eaton springs are a cargo coil type, with the progressive coil pitch to handle loads with less sagging. Essentially ended up “bench pressing” the spring into place. Once on the axle perch, rotate the spring to keep the pigtails of both to be the same orientation. After rotating, shifting the upper spring end may be needed to have it centered onto the upper perch.
The ride is nice and firm. Kind of reminds me of a CVPI. Not too harsh, but more to my liking as I always thought that the air springs were too soft when unloaded. The easiest way I can describe the ride differences is when the rear tires roll over a crack in the road, such as a gap of two concrete sections. With the air springs, you barely notice the crack. With the coil springs, you can definitely notice the same crack. Not objectionable to me, but to each their own as to preference.
I didn’t do the wire disconnect yet, but now notice that my steering feel is a bit hard. As in feeling like it has very low power assist. Kind of like a truck without power steering. Is it correct that the RAS module controls power steering? Do I need to replace this module?