A/C clutch change on car

[longbid]

Has anyone done a clutch and pulley change on vehicle?
If so can someone post what they had to do.
It looks relatively easy but when I check Mitchell they are all relating to a compressor off the vehicle.
By the way this is not a Marauder just a Crown Victoria vintage 2004.
Thanks for any help.:confused:

[fastblackmerc]

If there is enough room to get a puller in there, no need to remove the entire compressor.

[longbid]

It looks like there should be.
Has anyone actually done this clutch task?
Thanks again:beer:

[EMAS]

I did it on my 92 CV who's compressor mounts in the same holes in the block. There is no need for a puller to get the driven plate off. Undo the nut and stick a pair of screwdrivers in between the drive and driven plate and wiggle it gently and it should slide right off. There is a snap ring that holds the bearing for the pulley/drive plate and once that is off it slides off pretty easily. The hard part is the actual clutch coil it is pressed on the snout of the compressor at least it is on the 90's and in the 80's it was held on by a snap ring. Again a couple of screw drivers will lever it off. Now the hard part is getting it back on. I was able to get a hammer down there and use a block of wood and a couple of taps and it was back in place. Worse comes to worse and you may have to unbolt the compressor to tilt it to get access but you don't need to discharge the system and disconnect the lines.

[larryo340]

I did it on my 92 CV who's compressor mounts in the same holes in the block. There is no need for a puller to get the driven plate off. Undo the nut and stick a pair of screwdrivers in between the drive and driven plate and wiggle it gently and it should slide right off. There is a snap ring that holds the bearing for the pulley/drive plate and once that is off it slides off pretty easily. The hard part is the actual clutch coil it is pressed on the snout of the compressor at least it is on the 90's and in the 80's it was held on by a snap ring. Again a couple of screw drivers will lever it off. Now the hard part is getting it back on. I was able to get a hammer down there and use a block of wood and a couple of taps and it was back in place. Worse comes to worse and you may have to unbolt the compressor to tilt it to get access but you don't need to discharge the system and disconnect the lines.
+1^^^^
I did it that way on my 98 Marquis... I did remove the cooling fan for much better access, and I did it all from above the car never had to get on the ground or remove the compressor.

[longbid]

Thanks to all .
Sounds encouraging.
If a puller was necessary I was thinking of a pittman shaft puller.
Looks the right size.
I will keep you posted.

[MyBlackBeasts]

Yes, did mine summer of 2011.

Did job from underneath w/o compressor removal.

Took about an hour total to R&R & set correct gap.

[longbid]

Did you have to use the clutch fixture tool or did you improvise?
Mitchell states a 13 ft.lb torque spec on the retaining nut.
Seems that maybe the tool is unnecessary.
Thanks again.:beer:

[fastblackmerc]

Did you have to use the clutch fixture tool or did you improvise?
Mitchell states a 13 ft.lb torque spec on the retaining nut.
Seems that maybe the tool is unnecessary.
Thanks again.:beer:

You'll need a puller............ most FLAPS can lend you the tool(s).

[longbid]

Thanks,
I have a two jaw puller that should fit.
I am still wondering if the belt
tension will be enough to remove the 13 ft. lb. 8mm nut or will I need
the compressor clutch holding fixture?

[EMAS]

You do not need a puller and a jaw type puller should not be used as it will damage the driven plate. The proper puller threads into the driven plate. If you look down the hole the nut is in you'll see that it is threaded but as I said above if it doesn't slide off by hand a couple of screw drivers gently wiggled back and forth will get it free.

The proper tool looks like this though I don't know the exact compressor this one is for, since it is a random picture I found on the web. But it gives you an idea of what it looks like.

http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/6778/pullerrp6.jpg

Belt tension will do nothing to help you since the driven plate is not mechanically connected to the drive plate/pulley. Typically you can just hold the drive plate with one hand and a sharp wrap on the handle of the ratchet will break it free.

[longbid]

You guys are stars.
I ordered the part today and I am
confident it will go well.
Thanks again!!

[MyBlackBeasts]

Did you have to use the clutch fixture tool or did you improvise?
Mitchell states a 13 ft.lb torque spec on the retaining nut.
Seems that maybe the tool is unnecessary.
Thanks again.:beer:
Sometimes the drive plate will slide off the splines w/o puller. I got lucky when I did mine & did not need a puller.

Hardest thing was managing the magnet retaining snap-ring.

Patience & a few different angled snap ring pliers = success.

[longbid]

Just wanted to update.
I had to remove the cooling fans housing and buy a longer
snap ring plier set from Craftsman.
Works well now.
Many thanks for all of the input.
PS did not need the threaded puller