Eaton M112 S/C Leaking Oil (Trilogy Kit #231)

[drobin]

Has anyone ever experinced S/C oil leaing and accumulating under unit onto outlet mounting plate?? It is not coming from the front nose bearing seal or from any obvious telltail area. Kit has only 4000 miles since install and I need some good advice.

Many thanks,

drobin

[JohnE]

Yes. It is leaking at the flange seal from flexing there. The Trilogy setup has too much length without snout support.

I have re-sealed mine a couple of times. It helps to use an activator with the anaerobic flange sealant. Also, after a new fill, open the fill plug when the blower is hot to let excess pressure out.



John

[drobin]

Is this where the snout bolts up to the
S/C??

Drobin

[JohnE]

Yes, it's likely the front snout flange to the rotor pack flange. The seal is worn from flexing. Only way to fix is unbolt blower and take the snout off. Have to clean, seal and re-fill. It's a major job to fix correctly.

I suggest you check the fluid level every so often and always check when hot. Just don't let is run low or you'll need to rebuild the snout bearings.

[drobin]

Damn, the entire S/C must be removed??

Drobin

[Jokerzl]

Yes sir

I just got don fixing ken Johnson's

There is a way to fix it without ever having to worry about it again

[sailsmen]

Regular driving reduces the static stress allowing the dynamic stress to "spread" the loads reducing leakage.

[Limited360]

Regular driving reduces the static stress allowing the dynamic stress to "spread" the loads reducing leakage.


Draw me a free body diagram proving this please ...

[drobin]

Draw me a free body diagram proving this please ...


Forget that, he's just jealous that I have soooo many miles less than his slightly faster M/M.


drobin (Donald)

[BUCKWHEAT]

I have a variant on Don's problem of a year ago. The metal stress on the snout has caused a leak at the base of the upper driver's side rib on the snout where it attaches at the snout flange plate. Leaks right thru the aluminum, nowhere near the gasket.

Has anybody seen this failure on the Trilogy snout? My options so far seem to be:
1. Get a new/used snout. Unlikely, but does anyone have one?
2. Weld up the aluminum to reinforce it and go with ugly.
3. take it to Bobby Stiegemeier & let him fix it
4, find a twin screw, newer technology.

Any ideas? Would a too-tight idler pulley cause the extra stress? Is it, like me, just getting old?

[drobin]

I still have the same issue today and have not removed the S/C to this date. I do keep a continuous check on oil level and one day will attend to this PITA situation. Keep me posted on your fix when you are ready to tackle issue at hand and I will gladly do the same.

Thanks,
drobin (Donald)

[Gccch]

I did not need to read this. Another thing to worry about.

If you are putting your Trilogy away for winter storage would you recommend removing the drive belt to relieve the stress?

[JohnE]

The last time I resealed mine worked. One trick that helped was to remove the fill cap after the blower was heat soaked and re-tighten it. This reduces the pressure that builds up in the case from the heat cycles.

On a separate note, I still need to install my Whipple that I've been sitting on over a year.

[drobin]

I did not need to read this. Another thing to worry about.

If you are putting your Trilogy away for winter storage would you recommend removing the drive belt to relieve the stress?


I don't see the need to do this, but someone else may chime in and advise accordingly.

drobin

[justbob]

I don't see the need to do this, but someone else may chime in and advise accordingly.



drobin


I think he was kidding. Hope so at least.


Builder Of Badassery

[drobin]

I think he was kidding. Hope so at least.


Builder Of Badassery


No, he is definitely serious because by doing this, it would take the load off the nose piece of S/C.

drobin

[BUCKWHEAT]

No, he is definitely serious because by doing this, it would take the load off the nose piece of S/C.

drobin
and it certainly won't hurt. Don't forget to put it back on.

[justbob]

No, he is definitely serious because by doing this, it would take the load off the nose piece of S/C.



drobin


Absolutely silly.


Builder Of Badassery

[8UWITH6]

Take snout off the front of blower. Clean mating surfaces. Replace coupler if it needs it. Apply Napa Water Pump grey sealer to snout. Bolt on snout, fill with supercharger oil. Drive car.

[chief455]

I have a variant on Don's problem of a year ago. The metal stress on the snout has caused a leak at the base of the upper driver's side rib on the snout where it attaches at the snout flange plate. Leaks right thru the aluminum, nowhere near the gasket.

Has anybody seen this failure on the Trilogy snout? My options so far seem to be:
1. Get a new/used snout. Unlikely, but does anyone have one?
2. Weld up the aluminum to reinforce it and go with ugly.
3. take it to Bobby Stiegemeier & let him fix it
4, find a twin screw, newer technology.

Any ideas? Would a too-tight idler pulley cause the extra stress? Is it, like me, just getting old?
I'm thinking any good welder could solve that for you. It shouldn't have to be ugly.
I would not buy another - it's old and used too.
3. let Steggy fix it.
4. upgrade blowers = WINNING!

[Gccch]

Absolutely silly.


Builder Of Badassery

I have asked sillier questions. I don't know what's wrong with my logic. If the stress of the pressure on the snout is contributing to such a leak, and my car will sit for 5 months without being started, seems like a legitimate question.

[Curless]

I have asked sillier questions. I don't know what's wrong with my logic. If the stress of the pressure on the snout is contributing to such a leak, and my car will sit for 5 months without being started, seems like a legitimate question.


Are you going to take the regular belt off as well so the alternator bearings don't fail?

[martyo]

Are you going to take the regular belt off as well so the alternator bearings don't fail?

I would soak the bearings in grease rather than oil so they are more comfortable as they rest over the winter. :D

[Gccch]

Are you going to take the regular belt off as well so the alternator bearings don't fail?

I don't even use my alternator. Why would I want to wear it out?

[BUCKWHEAT]

Good news. Brand new ones available from Magnuson. It's their 7.5". Part number 15-04-90-750-sl. Bad news is its $482 plus $40 for the oil service kit.

Still working on Plan B.

[chief455]

Good news. Brand new ones available from Magnuson. It's their 7.5". Part number 15-04-90-750-sl. Bad news is its $482 plus $40 for the oil service kit.

Still working on Plan B.
that is great news John! Hey, if it lasts another 10 years, not bad really....and weld your old one as a spare.
What is Plan B.?

B = bigger....:coolman: