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View Full Version : Bad starting and now wants to die when warm



justbob
08-10-2014, 07:58 AM
I've been battling an issue of poor starting for well over a year now but nothing I couldn't live with. It always starts right up, revs a little like it should, then most of the time falls right on her face in two seconds. If you don't know the car and keep repeating start up it will eventually flood. Otherwise just pinch the gas and feather it a bit, all will be fine in a minute, end of issue, off you go. No real big deal, but annoying.

The new symptom for the last 6 out of 7 starts has taken it a step further.. Once driving all is fine till you reach about four blocks then the A/F bounces between pig rich and dead lean and it is a mother to keep running. If it dies it will only restart if I mat it. This will happen exactly the same wether fully warmed up or a start and go. It will clear up to be perfectly normal after about 1-3 miles of driving. Driving Miss Daisy or beating the snot out of it will not have any effect, it just needs to run its course. This I can't live with.

Practically everything was replaced in the last year for the rebuild including MAF, IAC, FRPS, and EGR. Nothing done lately. I understand that start ups are calculated from a reading from the ECT and the IAT and they must be within 5* of each other at start up to calculate fuel mixture (basically a form of choke) and I have data logged them to find only a 1or 2 degree difference.

I have not cleaned any sensor in a couple months, nor dived too deep into this yet. Just hoping for some insight.

BTW before you even bother asking about what codes may be present, I believe my ******* tuner shut off ALL codes as I haven't seen a single one since he touched it.. Even if I intentionally try to set one.

Where you at limited360? Marty? EMAS? Anyone?


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JohnE
08-10-2014, 08:37 AM
The first few seconds at and after startup, the O2 sensors are not used. If the settings aren't spot on it will run poorly without the feedback. I had to make several changes to startup fuel and air settings on my car because of the blower and injectors Its likely you need some fine tuning work done.

martyo
08-10-2014, 08:46 AM
Maybe the tune fell out of it. Lol

Any codes?

tbone
08-10-2014, 08:56 AM
Your tuner made a mistake? IMPOSSIBLE!!!

Granddaddy Marq
08-10-2014, 12:02 PM
Had similar problem with a 2000, 3.0 Ranger. Very hard to start when cold, did not run well, then would not restart when warm. Bad temp. sensor to the computer. It was shorted out and reading opposite. So it was in cold start mode when it was hot. If you don't have enough to do this weekend you could pull out the temp. sensor, and test it. Put it in a glass of cold water, attach your ohm meter to it. then pull it out and warm it in your hand. The reading should decrease when it warms and increase when it cools. Good luck, just my shoot in the dark.

Zack
08-10-2014, 12:17 PM
You probably have a legitimate vacuum leak bob.
It would make sense seeing as you have low vacuum

justbob
08-10-2014, 01:16 PM
Vacuum hasn't changed since the cams. This new condition started two weeks ago. I wish I had a vacuum leak, but nothing is ever that simple for me.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"