Preventing torque converter from turning?

[Mebot]

I'm installing my steeda underdrive pulleys but the air compressor I'm borrowing is factory set to 120 psi max. The impact gun is not removing the crank bolt so I've got to go manual on this

My question is how to you stop the torque converter from turning? Ive read install threads and it says to use a 14mm wrench or pry bar, but it doesn't say how exactly..

Do I need another person to jam a wrench up there while I take a breaker bar or is there an actual bolt and I just need to keep turning until I see it?

Thanks in advance

[Marauderjack]

Big screw driver or flat pry bar on the flywheel teeth is how I've done it but not on a Marauder motor!!:beer:

Pull #1 plug and turn the engine to the compression stroke on #1 and stop before TDC......run about a foot of 1/4" nylon line in the spark plug hole and turn the crank bolt until it stops.....a breaker bar will do the rest!!:eek:

I have only done this with older 2 valve pushrod engines but it worked GREAT and I don't see why it wouldn't work on our motors!!:banana:

I'm sure someone else will have another solution......

Good Luck!!

[Dereck]

Hi Mebot

If the engine is still in the car and not in a half torn apart state use a long socket bar, wedge it under the frame rail and stab the starter a couple times, haven't had one yet that won't undo using this method.

If the engine is out of the car you can buy a little wedge to hold the flexplate

http://superstitiongold.com/lincoln/pictures10/Torque%20Convertor%20Wedge.JPG


Regards

Dereck

[tbone]

Go to the store and buy a battery powered high impact torque wrench. Great tool to have for many years. Just ask yjmud. I borrow his all the time! ;)

[fastblackmerc]

Big screw driver or flat pry bar on the flywheel teeth is how I've done it but not on a Marauder motor!!:beer:

Pull #1 plug and turn the engine to the compression stroke on #1 and stop before TDC......run about a foot of 1/4" nylon line in the spark plug hole and turn the crank bolt until it stops.....a breaker bar will do the rest!!:eek:

I have only done this with older 2 valve pushrod engines but it worked GREAT and I don't see why it wouldn't work on our motors!!:banana:

I'm sure someone else will have another solution......

Good Luck!!

I used the big screwdriver in the flywheel teeth method. Worked great!

[Zack]

Install 2 bolts in the holes in the balancer. Hold with pry bar.
Simple. Lol at holding flywheel

[Mebot]

Thanks guys, I got it with a screwdriver and my neighbor used a breaker bar.

Got the pulleys on

[Marauderjack]

Install 2 bolts in the holes in the balancer. Hold with pry bar.
Simple. Lol at holding flywheel

There ya go......simple and easy to do!!:beer:

[vegasmarauder]

Two things. Someone posted on here a while ago to NOt use an impact on the crank bolt because the oil pump gears are made out of sintered(?) iron and could be damaged from the impacts causing failure down the line.

2. The method I have used is to remove the rubber plug from the driver's side of the block in the back. This is the torque converter access hole. Take a deep 9/16" (14MM) socket and slip it over the nut exposed through the hole. It it's not there, slowly turn the crank with the bolt until a nut is visible. As you loosen it, the socket will move and contact the edge of the block and stop the flywheel from turning. To tighten, reverse the process. It makes it easier since to tighten you have to turn the bolt 90* after intital torque setting.