View Full Version : Stainless Works Install Questions
License2Bill
10-29-2014, 08:27 AM
In anticipation of my latest purchase, I was reading through Blackened300A's writeup of the install that he did last year, and he mentions replacing the manifold gaskets. Would Mach 1 or Cobra 4v gaskets work? The biggest difference I can see is that the driver's side is 1 piece versus 2.
I already ordered the locking header bolts and Lokar dipstick as well.
MOTOWN
10-29-2014, 09:56 AM
OEM ford gaskets is your best option , locking header bolts is a complete waste of money , oem studs are your best option.
Comin' in Hot
10-29-2014, 10:17 AM
I installed SW headers recently and they the OEM dip stick tube went right in. Cobra or Mach 1 gaskets are the same. And I highly recommend these studs
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=95070
Best of luck with the locking header bolts.....You will regret it.
Use oem studs, what ^^^^ said or the bolts they give you.
fastblackmerc
10-29-2014, 10:38 AM
I'd install with the studs then replace them with the locking header bolts. Much easier to install with studs.
MOTOWN
10-29-2014, 10:43 AM
I'd install with the studs then replace them with the locking header bolts. Much easier to install with studs.
You cant even get bolts into all the bolt holes on the Stainless works header flange (at least the newest revision) and it will make removing the header a nightmare!:shake:
License2Bill
10-29-2014, 11:54 AM
A friend of mine who will be assisting with the installation is quite knowledgeable about foxbodys and the engines (apples to oranges maybe) keeps mentioning copper gaskets. Anybody ever use them on a Marauder?
ctrlraven
10-29-2014, 12:04 PM
Go with Ford OEM manifold gaskets.
fastblackmerc
10-29-2014, 12:04 PM
A friend of mine who will be assisting with the installation is quite knowledgeable about foxbodys and the engines (apples to oranges maybe) keeps mentioning copper gaskets. Anybody ever use them on a Marauder?
What does Stainless Works recommend?
License2Bill
10-29-2014, 12:11 PM
In their installation pdf on the website, looks like they recommend their studs and rtv
Jesus Fing christ.
Use OEM gaskets and studs/nuts.
No need to beat this to death, we have been doing it for over 10 years now.
massacre
10-29-2014, 04:00 PM
Where's the like button?
Can you use copper gaskets? Yes.
When 99% of people use the OEM gaskets, there's a reason why.
License2Bill
10-29-2014, 04:10 PM
Whoa there Zack, no need to go all righteous on me. I simply responding to a question that I was asked, which now that I think about it, could possibly have been rhetorical. I got the hint the first time fyi. And before you go into one of your "do you know who I am spiels like you do on Facebook every now and again, yes I do, I respect all the knowledge that you've brought to this community of enthusiasts. Yes, I'm aware you've probably forgotten more about these cars than I'll ever know.
Thanks for the input people. I'll be canceling the orders for the flexible dipstick and locking bolts and using OEM parts
fastblackmerc
10-29-2014, 04:15 PM
Whoa there Zack, no need to go all righteous on me. I simply responding to a question that I was asked, which now that I think about it, could possibly have been rhetorical. I got the hint the first time fyi. And before you go into one of your "do you know who I am spiels like you do on Facebook every now and again, yes I do, I respect all the knowledge that you've brought to this community of enthusiasts. Yes, I'm aware you've probably forgotten more about these cars than I'll ever know.
Thanks for the input people. I'll be canceling the orders for the flexible dipstick and locking bolts and using OEM parts
I'd keep the dipstick.
03blackvegas
10-29-2014, 04:23 PM
Jesus Fing christ.
Use OEM gaskets and studs/nuts.
No need to beat this to death, we have been doing it for over 10 years now.
Funny ASS **** there!
Who are you on Facebook????
tbone
10-30-2014, 08:34 AM
So what you're saying is to use copper gaskets and monkey cum?
05GM123
10-31-2014, 12:59 PM
"Change? Who needs change when what we have works" - said no truly successful person ever
Jeffonebuck
10-31-2014, 03:13 PM
Most Dipshticks aren't Flexible :burnout:
License2Bill
10-31-2014, 03:53 PM
Who are you on Facebook????
I only see the stuff you post on the Marauder Fan Club page. We currently are not friends on that page
martyo
10-31-2014, 04:26 PM
I only see the stuff you post on the Marauder Fan Club page. We currently are not friends on that page
He was going to delta you. He is power hungry. :bunny3:
I only see the stuff you post on the Marauder Fan Club page. We currently are not friends on that page
What is your FB name?
License2Bill
11-07-2014, 11:37 AM
So I started the install this morning, one of the manifold to cat pipe nuts on the driver side looks welded in place, didn't notice that before I started trying to take it off, and it stripped. Can the whole assembly be removed in one piece?
I'm assuming they will, but will make the job more difficult.
justbob
11-07-2014, 09:49 PM
Yes you can remove it as one.
But an even easier way. Sawzall.
Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.
Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"
License2Bill
11-13-2014, 09:25 AM
I have got the driver side manifold off yesterday. One stud snapped with about 1" exposed and one stud remained in the block with just the nut being removed. I have tried threading on two nuts, using one as a lock and wrenching on the one closest to the block, not making any progress. I suppose I could leave them in since there are enough threads on the broken one to get a nut on there even with the header in position.
Having problems on the passenger side as well. The top and bottom studs on cylinder 1 are proving to be especially tricky. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!
Having problems on the passenger side as well. The top and bottom studs on cylinder 1 are proving to be especially tricky. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!
If you are having problems with cylinder 1 then you did not remove the AC compressor, which is required.
License2Bill
11-13-2014, 09:49 AM
I relocated it per the instructions.
License2Bill
11-13-2014, 10:00 AM
Accessing them isn't the problem
6 point socket, and mapp gas will get them off quick
License2Bill
11-13-2014, 01:18 PM
6 point socket, and mapp gas will get them off quick
Thanks.
Am I missing something here? Two male connections? Looking at the stock manifold, the egr bung is clearly a female connection.
You removed the adapter from the manifold as well.
It needs to come off, get placed in a vice, then heated before you attempt to remove it.
Comin' in Hot
11-13-2014, 03:10 PM
Thanks.
Am I missing something here? Two male connections? Looking at the stock manifold, the egr bung is clearly a female connection.
You need to remove the double male fitting on your EGR tube. It's also much easier to start the erg tube on the header and then put the header in place.
justbob
11-13-2014, 03:46 PM
Headers come with instructions? Honestly, I didn't know that.
Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.
Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"
MERCULES
11-13-2014, 07:31 PM
Headers come with instructions? Honestly, I didn't know that.
Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.
Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"
That's what she said.;)
License2Bill
11-20-2014, 11:16 AM
Finally have all the studs out, EGR is reattached and so on. I broke something connected to the a/c compressor in the struggle of getting the studs out for cylinder 1. Part Number F6CF-19D594-CB, which according to brief research is an a/c pressure sensor or something. Can I safely drive the car with out this attached until the new one comes in?
I've thought about picking up a starter blanket. Does anybody here use one or is it just another waste of money?
massacre
11-20-2014, 04:15 PM
I use one it seems to work OK
justbob
11-20-2014, 04:35 PM
I use one it seems to work OK
Same. Why not try to save it for such little cost.
Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.
Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"
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