2004 Marauder Mod Questions

[Fastbob]

Just got my 2004 SB and already considering mods.

Couple of questions.....
1) What will it take to get this car solidly in the 13s? I am not interested in forced induction. I am thinking Lidio or Mo's tune, 3:73, 3:89 or 4:10 gears, Steeda under drive pulleys, cold air intake and possibly long tube headers. Will that do it?

2) K&N or JLT cold air intakes, which one and I am not concerned about price difference. The K&N looks better, but which performs better?

Thanks

Bob

[RubberCtyRauder]

4:10's is the consensus to get the heavy car up and moving off the line, MO's tune, no issues with Lidio, but Marty is active here on the boards. Not sure which CAI, i think performance is similiar, Headers will add 25ish HP but not sure if a tune is required for them. Talk with Marty O. is my recommendation. who is also a stainless works dealer and SCT dealer. I bought my car with most of the performance mods already done and had MO's re-dyno it and go over the whole car ( had it shipped from seller directly to MO's)

[yjmud]

Nitrous oxide
a supercharger is the best way

[yjmud]

Or put a LS in it

[Fastbob]

Nitrous oxide
a supercharger is the best wayNo forced induction, NO2 or pushrods.

[Comin' in Hot]

Everyone with forced induction said they didn't need it until they rode in a blown Marauder:D

[yjmud]

Be the first to put a coyote in

[03blackvegas]

Hey Bob, why are you against forced induction?

[justbob]

I thought I was fast Bob? [emoji4]


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Fastbob]

This went off topic and down the toilet pretty fast, NEVERMIND!

Thanks

Bob

[loud2004marquis]

I thought I was fast Bob? http://s3.amazonaws.com/tapatalk-emoji/emoji4.png

Nope, just Bob :neener:

[MERCULES]

I thought I was fast Bob? [emoji4]


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"


Your fasterbob :burnout:

[Hadamustang1]

Somebody drive out to Kansas and give Bob a back rub.. he kinda sensitive today..

[slickster]

JLT. 410. mo tune. if your lucky on a cold day you might get low 14's. with headers might get14 flat

[RubberCtyRauder]

Well, geez, why do we gotta put a new member /owner down and tell him to add stuff he doesn't want....If he wanted boost, he prolly would be asking, but he said no power adders, NOS, chevy motors..etc...Most of us started out with a Marauder and some needs to make it better, not everybody has $5-6k sittin around for a eaton swap and install, dyno, etc..most of us prolly started out with a a CAI, and a tune if a trilogy wasn't in the budget..He hasn;t even been here a month and we shot him down..he asked a legit question.. I'm pretty much a nobody on here and I never got treated with thread trashing.

[Comin' in Hot]

To answer #1:

With 4.10s, tune, headers and exhaust, UD pulleys, and an intake, you might and I mean MIGHT hit high 13s or you could skip all that and do an eaton swap and be in the 12s all day long.

#2

I agree the K&N looks better than the JLT, and both will give that louders air sucking sound. As for performance, I doubt either would be noticeable over the stock intake which flows extremely well.

[03blackvegas]

Well, geez, why do we gotta put a new member /owner down and tell him to add stuff he doesn't want....If he wanted boost, he prolly would be asking, but he said no power adders, NOS, chevy motors..etc...Most of us started out with a Marauder and some needs to make it better, not everybody has $5-6k sittin around for a eaton swap and install, dyno, etc..most of us prolly started out with a a CAI, and a tune if a trilogy wasn't in the budget..He hasn;t even been here a month and we shot him down..he asked a legit question.. I'm pretty much a nobody on here and I never got treated with thread trashing.

I'm just looking for he's reason for staying away from forced induction.

[RubberCtyRauder]

My post is not directed at anyone in particular..There are questions we might have, like your's for instance..maybe he'll tell his reason for wanting to stay away from power adders..Yes, a boosted marauder is pretty amazing, but my first one wasn't until i added a nonintercooled vortech unit. it was pretty nice with just a tune, but I wanted more for myself after being here for a while and seeing all these boosted ones.

[jsignorelli]

I like forced induction as I have it on all of my Fox Body Mustangs. But.. I also like stroker kits. The Fox bodies all have one (331 and 347) in addition to the blowers.
I actually waited to long to supercharge the Marauder. I did a stroker kit to raise the displacement to 5.4 liters. I did go with the cold air from K&N and the S-W stainless exhaust. I did go with the larger TB from Accufab and the Motorsport 4.10 gears and a retune with a chip.

I don't usually drag race the Marauder, but I do run it on the road courses at my SAAC weekends. I did E-Town in 13.54. Faster definely needs a blower.

[Spectragod]

Well, geez, why do we gotta put a new member /owner down and tell him to add stuff he doesn't want....If he wanted boost, he prolly would be asking, but he said no power adders, NOS, chevy motors..etc...Most of us started out with a Marauder and some needs to make it better, not everybody has $5-6k sittin around for a eaton swap and install, dyno, etc..most of us prolly started out with a a CAI, and a tune if a trilogy wasn't in the budget..He hasn;t even been here a month and we shot him down..he asked a legit question.. I'm pretty much a nobody on here and I never got treated with thread trashing.

I'd say a big bore stroker motor, and 4:10's and headers and a tune, CAI is just fluff.

[boatmangc]

Just got my 2004 SB and already considering mods.

Couple of questions.....
1) What will it take to get this car solidly in the 13s? I am not interested in forced induction. I am thinking Lidio or Mo's tune, 3:73, 3:89 or 4:10 gears, Steeda under drive pulleys, cold air intake and possibly long tube headers. Will that do it?

2) K&N or JLT cold air intakes, which one and I am not concerned about price difference. The K&N looks better, but which performs better?

Thanks

Bob

Talk to Russ aka 03monroe
He is there.

[na svt]

-CAI's add no power.
-Go with 4.30s as the Marauder tires are very tall and reduce the final ratio. Mustangs commonly run 4.10s and with their short tire see the same hwy RPMs as you would with a 4.30
-Small diameter damper and large alt, wp and hydraboost pulleys will free up a good amount of power.
-long tube headers will add power in the area where Marauders need it and that is the midrange.
-Tune

[na svt]

I'm just looking for he's reason for staying away from forced induction.
Who gives a **** what his reasons are, he doesn't want forced induction so you guys should stop recommending it.

[tbone]

The best I ever ran, with the mods listed below, but before I supercharged, was 13.908. Hard to get into the 13's with these cars without superchargers, turbos, nitrous or a different engine.

[na svt]

Hard to get into the 13's with these cars without superchargers, turbos, nitrous or a different engine.

With the right selection of parts it's very easy to get 13s as a few have proven. However, most opt to spend money on components that add little to no power but lighten the wallet significantly.

Converter, gears, small diameter damper, large wp/hydraboost/alt pulleys, long tube headers and a tune are all good, power producing mods.

CAIs/RAIs, TBs, top my list of mods that cost a lot and do very little to increase performance.

[71cyclone]

Take a look at Fast Black Merc / Joe W,. and Cntrl Raven , these guys broke into the 13:30's to 13: 69's range and are N/A ,so it can be done , bull Dog 5.0 is crankin 13's with ,A -2 valve 4.6 Vic Sport .:burnout:

[na svt]

Take a look at Fast Black Merc / Joe W,. and Cntrl Raven , these guys broke into the 13:30's to 13: 69's range and are N/A ,so it can be done , bull Dog 5.0 is crankin 13's with ,A -2 valve 4.6 Vic Sport .:burnout:

True, very true. My Mach 1 Auto ran 12.8s with only 4.10s (26" tire), 3200 stall, small dia damper, hydraboost/WP pulleys and cobra intake cams advance to 107.5. The Marauder with its additional 600 pounds would be at 13.4. Add 4.30s and more cam and converter the ET would be in the 12s.

[tbone]

With the right selection of parts it's very easy to get 13s as a few have proven. However, most opt to spend money on components that add little to no power but lighten the wallet significantly.

Converter, gears, small diameter damper, large wp/hydraboost/alt pulleys, long tube headers and a tune are all good, power producing mods.

CAIs/RAIs, TBs, top my list of mods that cost a lot and do very little to increase performance.

Had all that. Still not "easy" or there would be more than just a "few" on the list who got there.

[fastblackmerc]

Degreed cams will get some more HP.

[fastblackmerc]

New exhaust system - headers + new 2.5" pipes, install 2 hi-flo cats.

[na svt]

Had all that. Still not "easy" or there would be more than just a "few" on the list who got there.
which converter and gears?

[Fastbob]

My reasons for not wanting to do forced induction are as follows:

1) Presently no kit available with all parts necessary to do the install.
I do not want to go on an extended hunting adventure to find all the parts necessary. (Reinhart Performance S/C will not be considered as being available plus it is Centri and not roots style). Guess I could swap out a Cobra motor, but not sure what all would fit and the cost is high.

2) Forced induction is sometimes hard on the bottom end.

3) Forced induction is hard on the wallet all at once where N/A can be do a little at a time.

4) I can do almost all of the mods for N/A myself in my spare time.

5) To me it is more challenging to do a N/A performance build than forced induction, knowing that forced induction is always faster. Yes N/A can be more expensive.

6) Sometimes us older guys like being old school and forced induction really isn't old school (nothing sounds better than a lumpy idle from cam(s)).

7) I have no use for Nitros Oxide other than maybe at the dentist. Yes, bottles are for babies.

If you understand my reasons fine and dandy, if you don't that's fine also.

I think it is amazing what some of you have done to your Marauders be they blown or otherwise.

Bob

[71cyclone]

New exhaust system - headers + new 2.5" pipes, install 2 hi-flo cats. "Ditto"
Yes Sir / I replaced my rear cats with Free flow 2-1/2 '' cats , magna flo x pipe an 2-1/2 inch pipes to factory mufflers with meggs 4'' tips [ took the delta 50's off ] .the car will churp from a stand still with no problem [ DR tune was readjusted also] the factory mufflers have the correct amount of back pressure for an initially stock car. after all is said and done.. Money would have been better spent with the stainless work header system and a retune.:depress:

[tbone]

which converter and gears?

4.10's and 3000 stall.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Just so you know, modular motors never really have that deep lopey cam sound..However member Justbob has a pretty "old school" sounding one, well did, he is in process of re-boosting it. And there is a NIB Trilogy kit for sale (roots style on here, if you want to spend the money..$8500...

[Fastbob]

Just so you know, modular motors never really have that deep lopey cam sound..However member Justbob has a pretty "old school" sounding one, well did, he is in process of re-boosting it. And there is a NIB Trilogy kit for sale (roots style on here, if you want to spend the money..$8500...$8500 for something that is worth about $4500 , I think I'll pass. I am quite familiar with how 4.6 Fords sound with cams. I was just trying to give some perspective on why I am not into forced induction.

[RubberCtyRauder]

The kit was $6500 when trilogy was making them. I was just letting you know about it being avail. if one really wants one. And glad you know about the mod motors, once again, some people want that ole school lope and mod motors just dont really have it..that is all..You are more educated on them than some have been.

[Fastbob]

The kit was $6500 when trilogy was making them. I was just letting you know about it being avail. if one really wants one. And glad you know about the mod motors, once again, some people want that ole school lope and mod motors just dont really have it..that is all..You are more educated on them than some have been.Hey, I very much appreciate your reply. I saw the Trilogy was for sale a week or 2 ago, but I and I am sure some others think it is stupid money for it.

I am a fairly knowledgeable motor head, I started this thread cause sometimes there are quirks with modding some vehicles and I am not that familiar with the Marauder yet. I can tell you about anything you want to know about the 08 Bullitt Mustang I had though.

I have learned much in the short time I have been here on mm.net and I appreciate it.

Bob

[RubberCtyRauder]

There is another member in Canada..WPG-Merc (who as been to MO's shop for dyno tuning during last years maruderville in Atlanta)) or something that is naturally aspirated with some mods that has him like at 345 rwhp or somehwere close..He , as well as the others mentioned, would be worth messaging about some of your goals and what they have,which sound similiar..

[03blackvegas]

My reasons for not wanting to do forced induction are as follows:

1) Presently no kit available with all parts necessary to do the install.
I do not want to go on an extended hunting adventure to find all the parts necessary. (Reinhart Performance S/C will not be considered as being available plus it is Centri and not roots style). Guess I could swap out a Cobra motor, but not sure what all would fit and the cost is high.

2) Forced induction is sometimes hard on the bottom end.

3) Forced induction is hard on the wallet all at once where N/A can be do a little at a time.

4) I can do almost all of the mods for N/A myself in my spare time.

5) To me it is more challenging to do a N/A performance build than forced induction, knowing that forced induction is always faster. Yes N/A can be more expensive.

6) Sometimes us older guys like being old school and forced induction really isn't old school (nothing sounds better than a lumpy idle from cam(s)).

7) I have no use for Nitros Oxide other than maybe at the dentist. Yes, bottles are for babies.

If you understand my reasons fine and dandy, if you don't that's fine also.

I think it is amazing what some of you have done to your Marauders be they blown or otherwise.

Bob

Now I know, thanks for the clarification, all I can say is good luck with your quest.

[chief455]

Just got my 2004 SB and already considering mods.

Couple of questions.....
1) What will it take to get this car solidly in the 13s? I am not interested in forced induction. I am thinking Lidio or Mo's tune, 3:73, 3:89 or 4:10 gears, Steeda under drive pulleys, cold air intake and possibly long tube headers. Will that do it?

2) K&N or JLT cold air intakes, which one and I am not concerned about price difference. The K&N looks better, but which performs better?

Thanks

Bob
Bob
I asked the exact same question when I bought my SB last November. Good reading here:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=91532 (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=91532)

After careful consideration of my true wants from the car, and weighing in costs, here is my outcome as of May:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=93382
Posted as relative topics are covered in length for you to consider.
Congrats on the super Carmax find!:beer:

[J-MAN]

Good luck in your quest!

[03mmmonroe]

Talk to Russ aka 03monroe
He is there.

I have SW headers, 4.10 gears and 3200 stall convertor, CAI with 255/55/18 at the SHSS14 I was running 13.96 @ 98 mph. With my 265/40/18 Drag radial 26 inch tall I can get it down to 13.40 @101 MPH. DYNO number are 298 hp and 302 ft tq. at the rear wheels.

Hope that helps. To get to were I am at is over $4,000 plus time.

Russ

[Fastbob]

Bob
I asked the exact same question when I bought my SB last November. Good reading here:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=91532 (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=91532)

After careful consideration of my true wants from the car, and weighing in costs, here is my outcome as of May:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=93382
Posted as relative topics are covered in length for you to consider.
Congrats on the super Carmax find!:beer: I just read the thread you started regarding wanting to go N/A and I'll be damned it is very similar to the results I have received. Thanks for the links.

Bob

[chief455]

I have SW headers, 4.10 gears and 3200 stall convertor, CAI with 255/55/18 at the SHSS14 I was running 13.96 @ 98 mph. With my 265/40/18 Drag radial 26 inch tall I can get it down to 13.40 @101 MPH. DYNO number are 298 hp and 302 ft tq. at the rear wheels.

Hope that helps. To get to were I am at is over $4,000 plus time.

Russ
:beer: WINNING!!

I just read the thread you started regarding wanting to go N/A and I'll be damned it is very similar to the results I have received. Thanks for the links.

Bob
You are welcome. I had to remind myself, it is smaller than a 289, in a big heavy car.
Headers, convertor, gear
(too bad cams are 4x the cost or more guys would be doing them and the aftrmarket would grind more options)

After really reading the Eaton swap threads, members car details, it was fun to do, and a bit of money each step along the way.

It resulted in such a better car I was able to sell my 600rwhp Procharged car for lack of use, and to recoupe funds.
I do want a second Marauder, this one left N/A and with a moonroof :bows:
Either way you mod it, you'll love it!

[sailsmen]

Just got my 2004 SB and already considering mods.

Couple of questions.....
1) What will it take to get this car solidly in the 13s? I am not interested in forced induction. I am thinking Lidio or Mo's tune, 3:73, 3:89 or 4:10 gears, Steeda under drive pulleys, cold air intake and possibly long tube headers. Will that do it?

2) K&N or JLT cold air intakes, which one and I am not concerned about price difference. The K&N looks better, but which performs better?

Thanks

Bob

There is a .75 difference between best/worst based on temp/humidity.

Chip, 4:10 Gears, Under Drive Pullies , PI Torque Convertor – 13.74 @ 98.33.

Others with better temp/humidity ran 13.5. The best CAI is the OEM.

For reference I have over 270 runs down the 1/4 and 140K S/C miles.