Battery Cable Change, Looks like fun!

[Fastbob]

I have an issue with my 2004 SB. One of the previous owners cut the positive battery cable off and used one of those cheap a$$ clamp on terminal ends. The proper Marauder battery cable part number 3W7Z-14300-CA is no longer available and nowhere to be found. I reasoned that a 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis cable should be similar (part number 3W7Z-14300-AA). I ordered one from Tasca Ford and received it today. The cable looks identical except a couple of the mounting tabs are not in the exact same place. The negative cable is included as part of this cable assembly.

I crawled around under the Marauder today to see where the cable attached to the starter and my replacement cable has the same connections. I am guessing that these cables may be the same other than the locating tabs that fit onto the cam cover bolt threads. I will be an easy fix to move them. My problem is that I am not sure what is involved in removing the part of the cable that comes up behind the engine from the starter and I don't want to cut the cable to remove it as I am not 100% sure the new cable is exactly the same length.

Any help or advice would be appreciated. I am currently not having problems with the existing cable, but want to change it as it is a problem waiting to happen. I may wait till spring to tackle this as today is the only good warm weather day left and I don't want to get it tore apart and have to finish when it is cold outside.

Pictures to follow.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kE-gkdu80mQ/VHoKfxF08rI/AAAAAAAAAOc/tb9kxuFcJS8/w1155-h866-no/20141129_111447.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8XnndKKbeMM/VHoKesKIfzI/AAAAAAAAAOU/LAtOo1XY7YM/w1155-h866-no/20141129_111427.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XQ39dGmiJyU/VHoKhIshavI/AAAAAAAAAOk/dY81Glqs8LY/w1155-h866-no/20141129_111539.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9Lr69NA0tC4/VHoKdX56oyI/AAAAAAAAAOM/qViYwbaGxBo/w1155-h866-no/20141129_111419.jpg
Bob

[Comin' in Hot]

I bought the last available one in the country 3 years ago because my trilogy's harness was screwed up beyond repair.

Its not that hard to change, I did it outside in 30 degree weather in about an hour.

[Comin' in Hot]

I should have read the whole post.

I'm sure I don't have to say it, but disconnect the battery terminals first, Then disconnect the starter and then the bracket on the back of the head.

If its a nice day you might want let the harness lay in the sun for a while so make it more pliable. It's really a straight forward job and I have heard the CV/ MGM harnesses are the same as the MM except for the cam cover clips.

[Fastbob]

I should have read the whole post.

I'm sure I don't have to say it, but disconnect the battery terminals first, Then disconnect the starter and then the bracket on the back of the head.

If its a nice day you might want let the harness lay in the sun for a while so make it more pliable. It's really a straight forward job and I have heard the CV/ MGM harnesses are the same as the MM except for the cam cover clips.
Thanks I was really hoping someone would reinforce my guess that the wiring part of the cables is the same on the CV/GM as the MM. Uhhh, disconnect the battery cables?? Well I suppose there are people dumb enough to try it with them connected, but I am not one of them.

Thanks

Bob

[justbob]

Removing the wiper cowl isn't necessary but yields a TON of space behind the engine and I almost consider it "step 1" to most repairs.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[Mr. Man]

Removing the wiper cowl isn't necessary but yields a TON of space behind the engine and I almost consider it "step 1" to most repairs.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"
Also by doing so it provides a good opportunity to clean out all the gunk that settles in there.

[Comin' in Hot]

Thanks I was really hoping someone would reinforce my guess that the wiring part of the cables is the same on the CV/GM as the MM. Uhhh, disconnect the battery cables?? Well I suppose there are people dumb enough to try it with them connected, but I am not one of them.

Thanks

Bob

I only said about disconnecting the battery because sometimes people get excited to work on their marauder and forget this step..... I've been guilty before :lol:

[Logizyme]

Yes the GMQ cable is the same exept the valve cover mounts.

[Fastbob]

I am thinking I can reach the retaining bolt on the back of the head from below, but not sure. I will wait till next weekend and if the weather cooperates I'll set up my Maxx Jaxx lift and tear into it.

[vegasmarauder]

I've changed 6 battery cable sets on Marauders over the years. The cable is the exact same as the MGM one. Just carefully release the plastic tabs. They are basically zip ties around the cable so I use a small flat balde screw driver to release the lock tab and remove the plastic reatainers. The one up by the alternator is just taped to the harness.

The nut on the back of the right head is 13mm wide flat nut. I found a flat ratchet works great to get to it from the underside of the car. You have to do it by feel.

Pre bend the new cable assembly to roughly match the old one for ease of installation. The only area to watch out for is where the cables run under the right head along the block right near the starter. Make sure the cable does not touch or is near the exhaust manifold. (By the way, this is the area almost all the MGM/Marauder engine fires start at.) It's tucked up next to engine pretty close in this area.

Use care when removing the 10MM nut on the end of the power junction box (one end of the red cable attaches here on the engine side of the big black power jucntion box). It's a locknut and it's easy to break the plastic. I hold the end of the old cable with a pair of pliers and then loosen the nut after spraying some penatrating oil on the nut.

The wires only connect one way, so no chance of making a wrong connection.

[ctrlraven]

Good reason to do the Big 3/4 upgrade and change the starter cables as well if they are iffy.

[Fastbob]

Good reason to do the Big 3/4 upgrade and change the starter cables as well if they are iffy.Okay, I give up...what is the Big 3/4 upgrade?:confused:

[Fastbob]

I've changed 6 battery cable sets on Marauders over the years. The cable is the exact same as the MGM one. Just carefully release the plastic tabs. They are basically zip ties around the cable so I use a small flat balde screw driver to release the lock tab and remove the plastic reatainers. The one up by the alternator is just taped to the harness.

The nut on the back of the right head is 13mm wide flat nut. I found a flat ratchet works great to get to it from the underside of the car. You have to do it by feel.

Pre bend the new cable assembly to roughly match the old one for ease of installation. The only area to watch out for is where the cables run under the right head along the block right near the starter. Make sure the cable does not touch or is near the exhaust manifold. (By the way, this is the area almost all the MGM/Marauder engine fires start at.) It's tucked up next to engine pretty close in this area.

Use care when removing the 10MM nut on the end of the power junction box (one end of the red cable attaches here on the engine side of the big black power jucntion box). It's a locknut and it's easy to break the plastic. I hold the end of the old cable with a pair of pliers and then loosen the nut after spraying some penatrating oil on the nut.

The wires only connect one way, so no chance of making a wrong connection.Pretty much the way I was thinking it would go. I did NOT know the cable nut at the power box was a locknut. Thanks for letting me know. Maybe do it this weekend.

[ctrlraven]

Okay, I give up...what is the Big 3/4 upgrade?:confused:
The Big 3 is a simple electrical upgrade for any vehicle to improve a better electrical charge from the alternator to the battery. Your stock electrical system consists of 3, or more, wires hence the term “Big 3”. These are the main wires for your electrical charging system. The actual “upgrade” is we are adding a thicker gauge wire to the system.

The 3 wires are:
- Positive from battery to positive from alternator
- Negative from battery to ground
- Engine block to ground

Also the Positive from the battery to the main relay/fuse block is another wire that is usually upgraded so really it's the Big 4. But the other 3 wires are the main ones that are focused on.

Most who do it are car stereo guys who run big systems but it can be done on any vehicle. The stock positive battery/alternator wire is a 6 AWG wire, by increasing it's size to a 4 or even 1/0 AWG wire you decrease the resistance in the wire and power flows easier. Several or members on the site, I have all the stuff to do it but just haven't felt like doing it yet.

[Fastbob]

The Big 3 is a simple electrical upgrade for any vehicle to improve a better electrical charge from the alternator to the battery. Your stock electrical system consists of 3, or more, wires hence the term “Big 3”. These are the main wires for your electrical charging system. The actual “upgrade” is we are adding a thicker gauge wire to the system.

The 3 wires are:
- Positive from battery to positive from alternator
- Negative from battery to ground
- Engine block to ground

Also the Positive from the battery to the main relay/fuse block is another wire that is usually upgraded so really it's the Big 4. But the other 3 wires are the main ones that are focused on.

Most who do it are car stereo guys who run big systems but it can be done on any vehicle. The stock positive battery/alternator wire is a 6 AWG wire, by increasing it's size to a 4 or even 1/0 AWG wire you decrease the resistance in the wire and power flows easier. Several or members on the site, I have all the stuff to do it but just haven't felt like doing it yet.Sounds like there is a bunch of crimping / soldering involved and the use of a car stereo type multi-connection battery cable end. I would rather have the factory made connections since I don't plan any powerful stereo ("sound system" for you young guys) upgrades. I do appreciate the info.

Bob

[fastblackmerc]

Sounds like there is a bunch of crimping / soldering involved and the use of a car stereo type multi-connection battery cable end. I would rather have the factory made connections since I don't plan any powerful stereo ("sound system" for you young guys) upgrades. I do appreciate the info.

Bob
I don't have a "sound system" but I did the upgrade. Car starts easier and charges better. The tools you need are 4 gauge wire (different colors for + & -), battery terminals, heat shrink tub, copper lugs, propane torch and solder pellets.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/250%20Amp%20Alternator/DSCN1137.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/fastblackmerc/media/MM%20Mods/250%20Amp%20Alternator/DSCN1137.jpg.html)
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/250%20Amp%20Alternator/DSCN1138.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/fastblackmerc/media/MM%20Mods/250%20Amp%20Alternator/DSCN1138.jpg.html)
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/250%20Amp%20Alternator/DSCN1135.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/fastblackmerc/media/MM%20Mods/250%20Amp%20Alternator/DSCN1135.jpg.html)
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/250%20Amp%20Alternator/DSCN1136.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/fastblackmerc/media/MM%20Mods/250%20Amp%20Alternator/DSCN1136.jpg.html)

[Fastbob]

I don't have a "sound system" but I did the upgrade. Car starts easier and charges better. The tools you need are 4 gauge wire (different colors for + & -), battery terminals, heat shrink tub, copper lugs, propane torch and solder pellets.


Looks very professional. Thanks for the photos.

[Fastbob]

Went out to the garage today to change the battery cable. I can not reach the nut that holds the cable and bracket to the back of the passenger cylinder head. Are you guys that have changed these dropping the passenger catalyst to get at the nut on the back of the cylinder head? I could probably reach the nut with a ratchet and socket, but there is no way to bend and route the battery cable behind the head without putting my hands on it.

[lifespeed]

I don't have a "sound system" but I did the upgrade. Car starts easier and charges better. The tools you need are 4 gauge wire (different colors for + & -), battery terminals, heat shrink tub, copper lugs, propane torch and solder pellets.

Looks very nice! While a big stereo may be one reason to upgrade the wiring, there are others. My Marauder supplies 30 to 50A to my pop-up tent trailer through an 8G wire and circuit breaker feeding the 7-pin trailer jack.

I have not yet upgraded the alternator wire, but it is probably worth doing. The trailer has a hard wired DC-input battery charger (boosts the voltage as required to properly charge the trailer batteries up to 14.8V) so voltage drop is not a big concern.

I'm not sure the battery cables are as important to upgrade. Electrical loads other than the starter won't induce much of a voltage drop across #2 cables, and voltage drop during starting is a non-issue.

[Vortech347]

When the tiny and thin copper clamp failed on my original wiring I replaced them both with a standard hook-up and 4 gauge wire. The stock stuff was just barely enough to get the job done anyway.

[xopher]

Went out to the garage today to change the battery cable. I can not reach the nut that holds the cable and bracket to the back of the passenger cylinder head. Are you guys that have changed these dropping the passenger catalyst to get at the nut on the back of the cylinder head? I could probably reach the nut with a ratchet and socket, but there is no way to bend and route the battery cable behind the head without putting my hands on it.

I know this is from over a year ago, but how did this go for you?

I am in the same scenario right now, except I am the knucklehead who macguyvered my own connection 3 or 4 years ago out of autozone garbage. My parking lot kitbash worked well for several seasons until I was putting the Marauder away for the winter. I was simply disconnecting the positive terminal and my hulk strength comprimised my shoddy crimp job and it all fell apart in my hands.

I know the best option would be to find the MGM cable you mentioned and replacing everything, but it is costly, and I'm not excited about getting at the back of the heads.

The option I am leaning towards is trimming back the cables, taking the time for a couple in-line solder+crimps, and connecting it to this termination: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008Y80GZE

Is there a part number I am missing that might be a good patch for just the end of the positive cable? Anybody else have thoughts?

http://i.imgur.com/5tGxuoh.jpg

[justbob]

I know this is from over a year ago, but how did this go for you?

I am in the same scenario right now, except I am the knucklehead who macguyvered my own connection 3 or 4 years ago out of autozone garbage. My parking lot kitbash worked well for several seasons until I was putting the Marauder away for the winter. I was simply disconnecting the positive terminal and my hulk strength comprimised my shoddy crimp job and it all fell apart in my hands.

I know the best option would be to find the MGM cable you mentioned and replacing everything, but it is costly, and I'm not excited about getting at the back of the heads.

The option I am leaning towards is trimming back the cables, taking the time for a couple in-line solder+crimps, and connecting it to this termination: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008Y80GZE

Is there a part number I am missing that might be a good patch for just the end of the positive cable? Anybody else have thoughts?

http://i.imgur.com/5tGxuoh.jpg


Easy way.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/400775484345?ul_noapp=true&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frove r.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252 F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526 kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D536019 19689_324272%2526itemid%253D40 0775484345%2526targetid%253D15 4774698729%2526rpc%253D0.19%25 26rpc_upld_id%253D62747%2526de vice%253Dm%2526mpre%253Dhttp%2 5253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.co m%25252Fulk%25252Fitm%25252Fli ke%25252F400775484345%25253Flp id%25253D82%252526chn%25253Dps %2526adtype%253Dpla%2526google loc%253D1016956%2526poi%253D90 21519%2526campaignid%253D23912 5209%2526adgroupid%253D1497842 8809%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-154774698729%2526gclid%253DCLH Rwc6g1coCFYcjgQodd84Fyw%2526sr crot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D975293738472&chn=ps&lpid=82


Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk

[fastblackmerc]

I know this is from over a year ago, but how did this go for you?

I am in the same scenario right now, except I am the knucklehead who macguyvered my own connection 3 or 4 years ago out of autozone garbage. My parking lot kitbash worked well for several seasons until I was putting the Marauder away for the winter. I was simply disconnecting the positive terminal and my hulk strength comprimised my shoddy crimp job and it all fell apart in my hands.

I know the best option would be to find the MGM cable you mentioned and replacing everything, but it is costly, and I'm not excited about getting at the back of the heads.

The option I am leaning towards is trimming back the cables, taking the time for a couple in-line solder+crimps, and connecting it to this termination: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008Y80GZE

Is there a part number I am missing that might be a good patch for just the end of the positive cable? Anybody else have thoughts?

http://i.imgur.com/5tGxuoh.jpg

I'm making a set of 4 gauge cable and terminals for a member right now.

[xopher]

Easy way.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/400775484345?ul_noapp=true&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frove r.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252 F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526 kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D536019 19689_324272%2526itemid%253D40 0775484345%2526targetid%253D15 4774698729%2526rpc%253D0.19%25 26rpc_upld_id%253D62747%2526de vice%253Dm%2526mpre%253Dhttp%2 5253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.co m%25252Fulk%25252Fitm%25252Fli ke%25252F400775484345%25253Flp id%25253D82%252526chn%25253Dps %2526adtype%253Dpla%2526google loc%253D1016956%2526poi%253D90 21519%2526campaignid%253D23912 5209%2526adgroupid%253D1497842 8809%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-154774698729%2526gclid%253DCLH Rwc6g1coCFYcjgQodd84Fyw%2526sr crot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D975293738472&chn=ps&lpid=82


Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk
Very clean! Not a bad idea.



I'm making a set of 4 gauge cable and terminals for a member right now.

Does your positive side simply inline splice into the full ~4 foot cable? And does it replace the cable running to the power distribution box?

[fastblackmerc]

Very clean! Not a bad idea.




Does your positive side simply inline splice into the full ~4 foot cable? And does it replace the cable running to the power distribution box?

I'll post pictures when it's completed.

New positive and negative battery terminals (positive terminal with readout additional)
Red 4 gauge from terminal to alternator
Red 4 gauge from terminal to power distribution box
Black 4 gauge from terminal to engine block
Black 4 gauge from cam cover to firewall
Your choice of 200A ANL inline fuse (bigger fuse additional cost), no fuse or fusible links

I can also do a system with 2 or 1 gauge wire.

[Fastbob]

I know this is from over a year ago, but how did this go for you?

I am in the same scenario right now, except I am the knucklehead who macguyvered my own connection 3 or 4 years ago out of autozone garbage. My parking lot kitbash worked well for several seasons until I was putting the Marauder away for the winter. I was simply disconnecting the positive terminal and my hulk strength comprimised my shoddy crimp job and it all fell apart in my hands.

I know the best option would be to find the MGM cable you mentioned and replacing everything, but it is costly, and I'm not excited about getting at the back of the heads.

The option I am leaning towards is trimming back the cables, taking the time for a couple in-line solder+crimps, and connecting it to this termination: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008Y80GZE

Is there a part number I am missing that might be a good patch for just the end of the positive cable? Anybody else have thoughts?

http://i.imgur.com/5tGxuoh.jpgI am ashamed to say I have not installed the replacement cable yet. I was unable to reach the nut at the back of the cylinder head from underneath the car. I have decided to do it this spring and will remove the passenger side catalytic converter to aid in accessing the battery cable retention nut. I have ordered and received a new converter gasket. I do have the replacement Crown Vic battery cable assembly that I earlier ordered from Tasca Parts. Soon as the weather warms up a little more and my piriformis syndrome eases, I will get it done. Looks pretty easy, but access to that nut on the back of the cylinder head is a b1tch.


Bob

[justbob]

I am ashamed to say I have not installed the replacement cable yet. I was unable to reach the nut at the back of the cylinder head from underneath the car. I have decided to do it this spring and will remove the passenger side catalytic converter to aid in accessing the battery cable retention nut. I have ordered and received a new converter gasket. I do have the replacement Crown Vic battery cable assembly that I earlier ordered from Tasca Parts. Soon as the weather warms up a little more and my piriformis syndrome eases, I will get it done. Looks pretty easy, but access to that nut on the back of the cylinder head is a b1tch.





Bob


It's easy if you remove the wiper cowl.


Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk

[Fastbob]

It's easy if you remove the wiper cowl.


Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk Never thought of that. IS it easier to remove the wiper cowl or the passenger side catalyst?

[justbob]

Wiper cowl takes under five minutes. Just two wiper arms, a few Phillips screws, a few 8mm bolts, couple of clips, and a harness connector.

I use a dewalt 20v 1/4" impact for damn near everything anymore. [emoji106]🏻


Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk

[daddyusmaximus]

Good thread. Hoping to do the big 3 between now and spring as I am in the midst of a stereo build anyway. I have plenty of real heavy wire (0 I think) from a couple sets of military slave cables. Just need to find connectors. I love the custom stereo battery connectors, but I haven't seen any big enough for my wire. Much as I'd like to uses stuff I already have, I'm afraid I'll end up buying new wire. I wish I had a stash of #4 wire... Anyone here upgrade to a high output alternator? I read in an old thread that the Marauder has a different alternator voltage regulator and that the CV, MGM, or Mustang Alt will give you a battery light... DB Electrical was recommended in this old thread. Just wondering if anyone had used one.


Like this...
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-9808-alternator-high-output-200-amp-46l-marauder-2003-2004.aspx