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Marauderjack
12-02-2014, 09:41 AM
12-2-14

I spoke with Steve Shrader this morning and the block had NO RIDGES at the cylinder tops and is ONLY being bored 0.003" (yep three thousandths!) then honed.....NOT BAD for 11 years and 256K miles!!:shake::eek: I will take a little credit here.....my upper cylinder lube "concoction" for it's entire life!!:beer::bows:

The crank is perfect so he's only polishing it!!:beer: Mobil I Synthetic Oil to thank here!!:beer:

The #7 cylinder head is not damaged but the valves are beat up and he is replacing all 4 just to be safe!!;)

So far I am fairly pleased!!:D

Stay tuned!!:cool:

BigM460
12-02-2014, 09:59 AM
12-2-14

I spoke with Steve Shrader this morning and the block had NO RIDGES at the cylinder tops and is ONLY being bored 0.003" (yep three thousandths!) then honed.....NOT BAD for 11 years and 256K miles!!:shake::eek: I will take a little credit here.....my upper cylinder lube "concoction" for it's entire life!!:beer::bows:

The crank is perfect so he's only polishing it!!:beer: Mobil I Synthetic Oil to thanks here!!:beer:

The #7 cylinder head is not damaged but the valves are beat up and he is replacing all 4 just to be safe!!;)

So far I am fairly pleased!!:D

Stay tuned!!:cool:

Good to hear! :banana2:

Zack
12-02-2014, 10:03 AM
I would have the exhaust valve seats replaced in #7 & #8 for good measure.

Fastbob
12-02-2014, 12:22 PM
.003" for 250,000+ miles is amazing. How much cylinder taper?

fastblackmerc
12-02-2014, 01:07 PM
I would have the exhaust valve seats replaced in #7 & #8 for good measure.

+1 and I'd add the rear cooling mod.

Marauderjack
12-02-2014, 03:28 PM
.003" for 250,000+ miles is amazing. How much cylinder taper?

Evidently none "Fastbob" and it sounds like serious honing would get it there??:confused:

Steve said he likes to stay with less than 0.020" overbore on these blocks and mine sure fit the mold and then some....I was truly surprised!!:eek:

Zack.....he has the heads completely disassembled and I'll ask about those seats for sure!!:beer:

Jim.....I asked him about the cooling mod and he said he'd do it but it's not necessary??:cool: May get him to do it anyway while the motor is out!!:beer: Where can I get the parts??:confused:

Stay tuned......photos forthcoming!!:D

fastblackmerc
12-02-2014, 03:43 PM
Jim.....I asked him about the cooling mod and he said he'd do it but it's not necessary??:cool: May get him to do it anyway while the motor is out!!:beer: Where can I get the parts??:confused:

Stay tuned......photos forthcoming!!:D

My not be "necessary" but for a few $$'s why take the chance?

Contact Zack for the mod.

Marauderman
12-03-2014, 06:01 AM
+1 and I'd add the rear cooling mod.


My not be "necessary" but for a few $$'s why take the chance?

Contact Zack for the mod.

I had mine done couple years ago at Mo's"---got mine from "Musclemerc" --not sure if he still has or sells them -- like Jim said---more of sence of mind ---since no one has any real facts on its benefit--exept to know it completes the circle and provides cooling to the rear that is not there if not installed--so --yeah---I say benefit--- from my engine cooling gauges it seem to be working when weather is hot---I say like Jim --do it--

Jeronimojc
12-03-2014, 05:07 PM
I believe new valve seals are only about $60; so why not change them all?
Impressive for the mileage! What concoction are you talking about?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Marauderjack
12-04-2014, 03:47 AM
I believe new valve seals are only about $60; so why not change them all?
Impressive for the mileage! What concoction are you talking about?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All valve seals are being replaced and the heads are completely disassembled right now.......no damage to the heads but #7 valves are beat up pretty bad!!:(

My "concoction" is a time proven "Upper Cylinder Lubricant" that I add to the fuel at EVERY fill up!! Based on the condition of the block, I'd say it works pretty GOOD!!:beer::bows:

I would be glad to PM you the ingredients since my "Flame Suit" is at the dry cleaners right now.......been down that road MANY TIMES before!!:flamer:

Marauderjack
12-04-2014, 07:44 AM
My not be "necessary" but for a few $$'s why take the chance?

Contact Zack for the mod.

Jim,

I just spoke with Steve and this is the one he uses!!

http://www.cobraengineering.net/cooling%20mod.html

He said he'd rather stick with what he has used successfully in the past.....$200 installed so I told him to go ahead!!:beer:

Zack
12-04-2014, 08:01 AM
Jim,

I just spoke with Steve and this is the one he uses!!

http://www.cobraengineering.net/cooling%20mod.html

He said he'd rather stick with what he has used successfully in the past.....$200 installed so I told him to go ahead!!:beer:

He is charging you $200 for labor?

It's a 10 minute job with the engine out.

fastblackmerc
12-04-2014, 08:30 AM
He is charging you $200 for labor?

It's a 10 minute job with the engine out.

No, he said "$200 installed". The part on the website is $240.00.

Marauderjack
12-04-2014, 08:51 AM
$200 for the parts and labor......and his GUARANTEE!!:shake:

Most folks don't like to use unknown parts when they have to stand behind their work....cannot argue with that!! :beer:

myrodr
12-04-2014, 09:40 AM
Will that clear the firewall on MM? I think Mustangs may have more room at the back of the motor.

Marauderjack
12-04-2014, 11:23 AM
Beats me.....anyone know about the room or lack of room back there??:confused:

fastblackmerc
12-04-2014, 11:29 AM
Beats me.....anyone know about the room or lack of room back there??:confused:

It should fit. I have DR's original cooling kit which mount to same way as yours. Plenty of room.

Zack
12-04-2014, 11:53 AM
Have the shop weld shut the 5/8" coolant nipple on the passenger side of the COT.
Run the cooling mod directly to the heater core.

Marauderman
12-04-2014, 11:56 AM
$200 for the parts and labor......and his GUARANTEE!!:shake:

Most folks don't like to use unknown parts when they have to stand behind their work....cannot argue with that!! :beer:

Either way---I say its good that you are doing it--a good piece of mind for sure.

Marauderjack
12-04-2014, 12:13 PM
It should fit. I have DR's original cooling kit which mount to same way as yours. Plenty of room.

Thanks Jim!!:beer:

Marauderjack
12-04-2014, 03:48 PM
Progress photos.....heads being reassembled.:beer:

slickster
12-04-2014, 08:15 PM
:2thumbs: treatment well deserved

fastblackmerc
12-04-2014, 08:18 PM
Progress photos.....heads being reassembled.:beer:

Looks like they do good work!

Marauderjack
12-05-2014, 03:49 AM
I am very impressed so far and thank "03mmmonroe" for his recommendation of Steve and Shrader Performance!!:beer:

Marauderjack
12-09-2014, 03:07 PM
Went by today to check on my "BABY" today and it all looks GREAT so far!!

I got a bunch of photos along with a BOX of "engine guts" that look AMAZINGLY GOOD for the years and miles!!:eek:

I'll post photos when I return home tomorrow!!:beer:

Stay Tuned!!:D

Marauderjack
12-10-2014, 03:10 PM
Monkeyed up innards...see photos!!

fastblackmerc
12-10-2014, 03:12 PM
Monkeyed up innards...see photos!!

They couldn't buff those out????

Marauderjack
12-10-2014, 03:18 PM
Oil pump really looked OK as did the bearings!!

Steve said the Timing Chain guides were worn but no more than the tensioner in the photo!!:beer:

Stay tuned!!:cool4:

Marauderjack
12-10-2014, 03:20 PM
They couldn't buff those out????

Jim...one had evidence it was bent....replaced all 4 valves in that hole!!:D

BigM460
12-10-2014, 04:04 PM
256,000 miles, and the bearings look like they could have done it again! :up:

lifespeed
12-10-2014, 05:16 PM
Monkeyed up innards...see photos!!

Just looking at fuzzy pictures on the internet it appears as if you can see shiny spots where the top compression ring gap closed ultimately causing the failure.

RF Overlord
12-10-2014, 05:34 PM
Damn, 'jack...if the piston hadn't let go, you could have had the first half-million mile Marauder. The rest of those innards looked amazing...

03mmmonroe
12-10-2014, 09:17 PM
I am very impressed so far and thank "03mmmonroe" for his recommendation of Steve and Shrader Performance!!:beer:

I will be sending my short block over let me know when your engine is done.

Russ

Marauderjack
12-11-2014, 03:20 AM
256,000 miles, and the bearings look like they could have done it again! :up:

The bearings and the condition of the block blew me away......ya can still see machining marks on the bearings and the block still had the original honing patterns in each bore.....crazy!!:eek:

Steve said that with routine maintenance modern engines can last indefinitely!!:beer:

Marauderjack
12-11-2014, 03:25 AM
Damn, 'jack...if the piston hadn't let go, you could have had the first half-million mile Marauder. The rest of those innards looked amazing...

I may still have the first "Half Million Mile Marauder" but not with the OEM engine and to think low octane fuel may have done it??:argue:

Marauderjack
12-11-2014, 03:25 AM
I will be sending my short block over let me know when your engine is done.

Russ

Looks like mid-January Russ....I'll let ya know!!:beer:

lifespeed
12-11-2014, 11:00 AM
. . . and to think low octane fuel may have done it??

The piston failure shown has a fairly specific cause. You posted good information you were given by an experienced engine builder as to the cause; top ring gap closing. This is pretty much always due to heat beyond design parameters. Could be pre-ignition, could be heavy load from supercharging.

Depending on your perspective, the stock rings and pistons or added heat from supercharging are at least partly to blame.

Building an engine for supercharging, besides the obvious forged components, also entails details like a specific ring type, gap, and sometimes even a greater distance from piston crown to top ring. This increases the piston/ring package tolerance for load and heat. No doubt your engine builder is aware of this.

MOTOWN
12-11-2014, 12:38 PM
The piston failure shown has a fairly specific cause. You posted good information you were given by an experienced engine builder as to the cause; top ring gap closing. This is pretty much always due to heat beyond design parameters. Could be pre-ignition, could be heavy load from supercharging.

Depending on your perspective, the stock rings and pistons or added heat from supercharging are at least partly to blame.

Building an engine for supercharging, besides the obvious forged components, also entails details like a specific ring type, gap, and sometimes even a greater distance from piston crown to top ring. This increases the piston/ring package tolerance for load and heat. No doubt your engine builder is aware of this.

Exactly! couldn't have said it better:bows:

Marauderjack
12-11-2014, 04:02 PM
Low Octane fuel.....I'm currently in communication with the supplier...may just get some help from them!!:beer:

My builder builds "blower motors" for a living and is quite successful at it......'nuf said thank you!! :rolleyes: