lowering

[Mach]

Whats up guys, needing suggestions on lowering the MM. I dont want to lower it too much, just to have sitting pretty. What kits or how inches would be best?

[jwibbity]

most guys have cut one coil off the front spring and then adjusted the rear ride height to their liking.

Eibach was the only company to make lowered springs for the marauder, but good luck trying to find a set of those....:beer:

[justbob]

I cut my coils probably six years ago and still love the looks.


Builder Of Badassery

[2mercs]

Didn't Detroit spring do lowering coils also?

[Logizyme]

^ And coilsprings.com

However both have had issues with consistancy and customer service with the guys over at CVN.

I have Eibachs but if I were to do it agian I would just cut springs - I would grab some springs off of a newer cop car at the junkyard if possible just to save my OE ones and get a fresher spring.

and adjust the rear air suspension to lower the rear.

[Embassy]

most guys have cut one coil off the front spring and then adjusted the rear ride height to their liking.



Yes!
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1017209/fullsize/marauder-2014-ky-meet.jpg

[stevengerard]

I had QA1s on the front - took em off - cut oem spring 1" works much better. Those QA1s had to be adjusted constantly - I think they gave us the wrong spring rate

[lifespeed]

Depending on your specific configuration and how low you drop the rear there can be bump stop and sway bar clearance (Addco tubular for sure, don't know about stock or solid Addco) issues that are easily addressed with the right parts.

See this thread (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=88840).

[bodabdan]

I know it's not an MM, but for the car in my sig which should be very similar. I measured all the wheel wells. From the top of the tire to the roll in the fender directly above it was the same all the way around. I took exactly one coil off of the front springs and got a 3/4" drop on both sides, then adjusted the rear bags to match.
I played around with the bags, and got the back down 1-1/2". I think that is where i would really like to be all the way around. I'm hesitant to cut another coil off the front, i don't want to lose all my travel. Where the rear sits now, the top of the factory size tire is almost even with the roll of the fender directly above it. If someone made 1-1/2" drop spindles, they couldn't make them fast enough........
Hope that helps.

[8UWITH6]

Cut a coil on the front and adjusted the rear air ride 3 months after buying mine. Best decision evar.

[STEPS]

I cut of 3/4 of a coil and got 3/4 of an inch lower in the front just right for me then lowered the rear air ride to match the tire wells.
then added a front air dam looks good I think
Before I started i bought a used set of front springs just in case.

[1Marauder]

Thanks ALL!

I dont want a car that is TOO LOW, and scrapes on everything. I am too OLD for that (HAHAHAHAH). I've been tossing this around and delaying unitl it "feels" right. I want to lower 3/4, and 3/4 only. Everything above helps me navigate this.

Spring is coming! Hope to have them lowered, and re-aligned in time for MARCH (spring) in California.

'Thanks again to ALL Y'ALL!

[rauder88]

I cut 1 coil off my fronts and got about 1" drop. My springs had 115k on them though. Mileage may vary. Also when going lower you will need to get SPC camber bolts. $50 shipped on tirerack. Need 2.
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/Susptabl.jsp?autoMake=Mercury&autoModel=Marauder&autoYear=2003&autoModClar=

And the rear bump stops are stupid high. I leveled the rear of my Marauder before I lowered the front and the bump stops were rubbing. I got Energy Suspension 9.9101R bump stops.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN7CU6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01? ie=UTF8&psc=1
The cheapest I could find them if you have prime.

[1Marauder]

I am moving forward quickly with lowering.

I'd like to BUY NEW springs and cut them 3/4 inch. (Mine are 11+ years old)

WHICH springs should I get and from WHERE?

Does anyone make a great solid slightly firmer sling already "lowered"?

I already have new KYBs, new rear bump stop, camber bolts, addco sway bars, etc.

[justbob]

I am moving forward quickly with lowering.

I'd like to BUY NEW springs and cut them 3/4 inch. (Mine are 11+ years old)

WHICH springs should I get and from WHERE?

Does anyone make a great solid slightly firmer sling already "lowered"?

I already have new KYBs, new rear bump stop, camber bolts, addco sway bars, etc.


You will be upset when you go through all that and end up right back where you already are or possibly higher..


Builder Of Badassery

[1Marauder]

You will be upset when you go through all that and end up right back where you already are or possibly higher..


Builder Of Badassery



Sorry, I may be a little slow because of new year celebrations.... But what exactly was your advice?

[2mercs]

11 year old mm springs have started to sag. Can't get new mm springs. Cv and mgm springs are taller than mm springs. So if you buy new springs for cv or mgm and cut 3/4 of a coil good chance you will be sitting at same ride height.

[1Marauder]

Ok! thank you for the clarifications!

[justbob]

Sorry, I may be a little slow because of new year celebrations.... But what exactly was your advice?


This .


11 year old mm springs have started to sag. Can't get new mm springs. Cv and mgm springs are taller than mm springs. So if you buy new springs for cv or mgm and cut 3/4 of a coil good chance you will be sitting at same ride height.


Or perhaps a tad higher than now. If your hell bent on new springs I wouldn't hesitate to cut 1 1/2 coils.


Builder Of Badassery

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

I have my stock springs with like 10k miles laying around somewhere if someone needs some.

[Gccch]

What do you need to drop the rear end? Is this an adjustment covered in the owners manual? I would check but mine is in storage and a 2-1/2 hr. drive away.

[justbob]

Adjust it above the rear axle at the watts link height adjust switch.


Builder Of Badassery

[RubberCtyRauder]

slide the adjuster "slightly" small increments make big changes. be sure to mark whre you started from. Marauder is same as pic for Crown vic sport models .

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu92/mdnos/03heightadjustment002_zps7ed2d 8d2.jpg

[Gccch]

Thanks. Is the adjustment done by turning that rod? Or is it more involved?

[RubberCtyRauder]

Thanks. Is the adjustment done by turning that rod? Or is it more involved?

No that is the height sensor rod. you loosen the 8 and 12 mm botls and slide it towards driver side to lower. You'll have to cycle the air compressor for it to adjust. Be careful with it, they are somewhat fragile and are expensive..

[1Marauder]

This .




Or perhaps a tad higher than now. If your hell bent on new springs I wouldn't hesitate to cut 1 1/2 coils.


Builder Of Badassery



If I find CPVI new and cut 1.5 coils????

[1Marauder]

I have my stock springs with like 10k miles laying around somewhere if someone needs some.


I'd love to have them. Can "core" my 28,000 mile springs back to you if you want or simply borrow / buy them. I appreciate it!

[Gccch]

I'm not near my car to check. What is the adjustment mechanism? Is it the rod pictured Threaded opposite direction on both ends to lengthen or shorten? Does the car need to be jacked with no spring tension?

[Comin' in Hot]

I'm not near my car to check. What is the adjustment mechanism? Is it the rod pictured Threaded opposite direction on both ends to lengthen or shorten? Does the car need to be jacked with no spring tension?

its the black bracket that slides on the watts link arm

[1Marauder]

I'm not near my car to check. What is the adjustment mechanism? Is it the rod pictured Threaded opposite direction on both ends to lengthen or shorten? Does the car need to be jacked with no spring tension?


Call me if you want. Easier to tell you the first time 916 8499934

[Gccch]

Call me if you want. Easier to tell you the first time 916 8499934

Hey,thanks a lot for the offer to phone you. Maybe I will when I get to the car again. It's in storage far away. When I get back to it I want to try this.

[Baconbit]

So if I put Eibachs on the front and lower the rear air suspension, Do I have to have camber bolts?

[RubberCtyRauder]

So if I put Eibachs on the front and lower the rear air suspension, Do I have to have camber bolts?

I would prolly say yes, to any lowering would be better with camber bolts and eibachs are long discontinued. I have camber bolts in mine

[MMBLUE]

So if I put Eibachs on the front and lower the rear air suspension, Do I have to have camber bolts?

Or, you can dremel out the current slots for more adjustment. ;)

[Bad_S55]

Is it possible to use the Suncore air ride replacement springs on an originally spring equipped car? My Marquis was a GS, total barebones, no air ride. Would the cup size for holding the bag be any different than that of a spring?

[Invader]

I would prolly say yes, to any lowering would be better with camber bolts and eibachs are long discontinued. I have camber bolts in mine


What Camber Kit Should I use?

[rauder88]

What Camber Kit Should I use?

http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/suspension.jsp?make=SPC&model=Taur%2FSab+SW+R+Camber+K it&group=Taur%2FSab+SW+R+Camber+K it&partNum=SPC87365&autoMake=Mercury&autoModel=Marauder&autoYear=2004&autoModClar

SPC camber bolts. $50 shipped from Tire Rack (you need 2). I needed them for mine (1 coil cut)

[Invader]

http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/suspension.jsp?make=SPC&model=Taur%2FSab+SW+R+Camber+K it&group=Taur%2FSab+SW+R+Camber+K it&partNum=SPC87365&autoMake=Mercury&autoModel=Marauder&autoYear=2004&autoModClar

SPC camber bolts. $50 shipped from Tire Rack (you need 2). I needed them for mine (1 coil cut)


I found them, I have the Eibach Springs too...

[detrailers]

my next mod for sure, guys that have done this (1 coil - camber bolts - rear air ride adjust) any rubbing or bottoming out and did you need to roll the inner fenderwells??

[Krytin]

my next mod for sure, guys that have done this (1 coil - camber bolts - rear air ride adjust) any rubbing or bottoming out and did you need to roll the inner fenderwells??

The front plastic liner on the passenger side will need to be cut/relieved w/1 coil cut in the front. Also relocate the wire harness (the liner has a squared section next to the fender lip at the top of the arch w/harness behind it) to above the liner - just use the plastic tabs already on the harness and drill new holes on the top of the liner next to the top of the fender under the hood.

[detrailers]

The front plastic liner on the passenger side will need to be cut/relieved w/1 coil cut in the front. Also relocate the wire harness (the liner has a squared section next to the fender lip at the top of the arch w/harness behind it) to above the liner - just use the plastic tabs already on the harness and drill new holes on the top of the liner next to the top of the fender under the hood.
Thanks for that....what area of the plastic liner...or what is it that rubs where it needs to be relieved

[Logizyme]

I run Eibachs and I think they are a touch too stiff with all my other mods. If I were to do it agian just cut your OE or new P71 springs and add SPC's. Done.


I had QA1s on the front - took em off - cut oem spring 1" works much better. Those QA1s had to be adjusted constantly - I think they gave us the wrong spring rate

^ +1

[Krytin]

Thanks for that....what area of the plastic liner...or what is it that rubs where it needs to be relieved

The edge of the liner at the top of the wheel arch where it meets the edge of the fender - you will see a squared off section. This has to be removed. The harness is behind the section you need to remove.

[lifespeed]

I run Eibachs and I think they are a touch too stiff with all my other mods. If I were to do it agian just cut your OE or new P71 springs and add SPC's. Done.

The problem is not that the springs are too stiff, but rather the shocks do not have enough damping to control the stiffer springs. My Marauder works very well with springs that are much stiffer than stock.

If you are not willing to buy shocks other than what Pep Boys wants to foist on you it will be impossible to accomplish a significant upgrade to your suspension.

Same answer as always: speed costs money, etc.

[Logizyme]

The problem is not that the springs are too stiff, but rather the shocks do not have enough damping to control the stiffer springs. My Marauder works very well with springs that are much stiffer than stock.

If you are not willing to buy shocks other than what Pep Boys wants to foist on you it will be impossible to accomplish a significant upgrade to your suspension.

Same answer as always: speed costs money, etc.

No. The springs are too stiff for me. KYB's are the best shocks you can put on a panther.

[justbob]

Mine is quite low and I never had any rubbing issues?


Builder Of Badassery

[lifespeed]

No. The springs are too stiff for me. KYB's are the best shocks you can buy at Pep Boys you can put on a panther.

Fixed it for you. Look, I'm not really interested in arguing with someone about suspension tuning on the internet. I have been through this in gory detail and I learned:

1) Chances of an off-the-shelf non-adjustable shock being correct for a custom suspension are near zero. Not to mention they are cheap garbage to begin with.

2) it costs more for one good shock than a set of 4 KYB/Monroe/Gabriel

[MOTOWN]

I would love to try the Penske setup on the front , but I'm afraid it will be a small fortune!

[Logizyme]

Fixed it for you. Look, I'm not really interested in arguing with someone about suspension tuning on the internet. I have been through this in gory detail and I learned:

1) Chances of an off-the-shelf non-adjustable shock being correct for a custom suspension are near zero. Not to mention they are cheap garbage to begin with.

2) it costs more for one good shock than a set of 4 KYB/Monroe/Gabriel

Just because you say so does not make it true. You are the only one with that setup and I have no clue how well it works. The real point is that there are thousands of Panther owners on CVN, UPOA, and MM.net that swear by and can attest to the true performance of the KYB shocks for 03+ and you are the only one that can tell anyone about your setup.

Like I said I don't know how well your setup works and I honestly don't care about how well you say it works because there is no way for you to prove to me you are not biased.

Furthermore I would argue that your logic is backwards. I would describe your Penske shocks as off the shelf shocks - not designed with the Panther platform in mind and regardless of its performance or adjustability I doubt it effectiveness over the platform engineered OE replacement shocks. I will also point out that I would not describe my suspension as custom - my suspension still works on the factory principle with factory replacement parts - even if they are aftermarket upgrades.

Have you run the KYB's on one of your cars? Have you run Monroes? Have you run Naake's? I have. Its a no contest to which outperform.

Oh and your points that the OE replacement shocks are "Cheap garbage" and that one good shock costs more than 4 KYB's: why don't you try telling that to the handful of members here who installed the Naake/QA1's just to remove them for the KYB's because of how poorly they performed. Just because you spend more on something does not make it better.

If you don't want to argue suspension over the internet, how about you just state your own opinion instead of quoting me and saying that I am wrong - especially about my own car.

[lifespeed]

I used the KYB in the rear. They weren't any good by comparison. I never said anything about Naake, although I have not heard good reports. KYB are designed for stock crown vics, not upgraded Marauders. And from what I have seen they are merely adequate. The OEM Tokicos were designed for Marauders.

Changing the spring and anti-roll bar rates is significant. The shocks have to match. Here is the link to my shock install (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=84895&highlight=finally+arrived), I did post information as you suggested.

Don't get all wrapped around the axle, just wanted to try and help with your "stiff spring" issue. Any time you increase the spring without changing to an appropriate shock it will feel harsh.

Yeah, I'm the only one who has done the Penske 7500DA. Probably got the best handling Marauder out there. ;) I guess I can't prove it though. Good thing I don't much care.

Edit: you're the only one who tried the GT500 brake upgrade. I guess you can't prove much either, LOL.

[Logizyme]

I used the KYB in the rear. They weren't any good by comparison. I never said anything about Naake, although I have not heard good reports. KYB are designed for stock crown vics, not upgraded Marauders. And from what I have seen they are merely adequate. The OEM Tokicos were designed for Marauders.

Changing the spring and anti-roll bar rates is significant. The shocks have to match. Here is the link to my shock install (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=84895&highlight=finally+arrived), I did post information as you suggested.

Don't get all wrapped around the axle, just wanted to try and help with your "stiff spring" issue. Any time you increase the spring without changing to an appropriate shock it will feel harsh.

Yeah, I'm the only one who has done the Penske 7500DA. Probably got the best handling Marauder out there. ;) I guess I can't prove it though. Good thing I don't much care.

Edit: you're the only one who tried the GT500 brake upgrade. I guess you can't prove much either, LOL.

I appreciate you mellowing out - I will try to return the favor.

I will say that all of the Marauder suspension components were shared among other Panther platform cars. The only difference between a 2003 P71 suspension and a 2003 Marauder suspension is the rear air suspension and the rear sway bar. The rear air suspension and rear sway bar from the Marauder can however be found on the HPP versions of the civilian Crown Victoria and Grand Marquis. The Tokicos were used for many years onward for the Panther platform, they may have been the OEM all the way to the end.

The KYB's were designed to match and improve performance of both the "Heavy duty" P71/Marauder shocks and the more comfortable Civilian shocks, which is why the KYB's are offered in two versions. I believe that KYB did a very good job in matching the performance of their shocks to the vehicle on our application.

and yes I am the only one to have reported installing the Zack brake kit(besides Zack himself) and I do state my opinion on the setup - and your right that myself alone does not prove anything, if others get around to installing theirs then I may be joined in my opinion or I may be disagreed with - regardless I leave my opinion at just that, my opinion.

[lifespeed]

All the other panthers have an iron motor in the front which is a major difference. Most HPP package cars still had the lower rate rear air springs. They all had softer sway bars than the Marauder. The Marauder is very different to begin with, then add in even stiffer aftermarket springs, sway bars and rear control arms. How could one (or two) shock rates for a crown vic be correct?

Tokico only went on Marauders, were valved specifically for our cars, worked very well and cost Mercury a price premium. It is a moot point today as they're unavailable, but for anybody who owned a young Marauder and remembers what it was like, it is an example of how critical the right shock is to dial in the cars ride and handling.

KYB may well be the best parts-store shock, but that is a low standard. We don't even get the easy option of Koni or Bilstein for the later panthers.

[detrailers]

sooooo with all that being said, My MM at 96k miles rides nice up front. From what I gather if I do the 1 coil cut and want to do shocks at a reasonable price, go KYB?

[Krytin]

sooooo with all that being said, My MM at 96k miles rides nice up front. From what I gather if I do the 1 coil cut and want to do shocks at a reasonable price, go KYB?

I have 1 1/8 coil cut on the front coils w/addco solid sway bar and Marauder specific KYB's on the front of mine and very happy w/the results vs. cost. I did have the QA1 kit from Naake front and rear and finally removed them after almost two years of trying to make them work!

[Logizyme]

All the other panthers have an iron motor in the front which is a major difference. Most HPP package cars still had the lower rate rear air springs. They all had softer sway bars than the Marauder. The Marauder is very different to begin with, then add in even stiffer aftermarket springs, sway bars and rear control arms. How could one (or two) shock rates for a crown vic be correct?

Tokico only went on Marauders, were valved specifically for our cars, worked very well and cost Mercury a price premium. It is a moot point today as they're unavailable, but for anybody who owned a young Marauder and remembers what it was like, it is an example of how critical the right shock is to dial in the cars ride and handling.

The Marauder rear bar is identical to the HPP bars 98-on(21mm). 2003 Marauder front bars are identical to 2003 P71 bars(28mm) and 2004 Marauder front bars are identical to 2004 P71 bars(29/29.5mm depending on where you measure) While the Marauder is the only car to have both the stiffest front and the stiffest rear, both bars were used on non-Marauders. I disagree that shocks would critically require adjustment for every miniscule change in spring and stabalizer rate.

Do you have any proof that Tokico's only went on Marauders? Tokico is the OEM manufacture for plenty of cars from plenty of automakers. Any proof that Marauder air springs have a different rate? Just because something has a different part number, especially a Ford engineering part number does not mean anything - Ford changes part numbers everyday.

[lifespeed]

I disagree that shocks would critically require adjustment for every miniscule change in spring and stabalizer rate.

If that were true why did a small change in your front spring rate result in crappy ride quality? This is commonly understood by experienced suspension tuners.

Disagree based on what? Your experience adjusting shocks for best ride and handling? Did you succeed with Naake? I have had the opportunity to use adjustable shocks on this car, and worked at it long enough to get it right. Probably didn't hurt that I hired a good shock builder who used good dampers. The rear was especially difficult, I am almost embarrassed to say how many times I had them re-valved (external bleeder adjusments only go so far, you have to change the internal shim stack for larger changes). But I've got the "recipe" figured out now.

I was surprised at how small of a window in damping was correct for the suspension combination. I swapped out the rear sway bar for the addco after all the other suspension upgrades were in place (springs, shocks, front addco bar) and it put me back through the shock adjustment cycle in the rear to get the ride and handling correct. I had the rear shocks adjusted with slightly too much rebound damping (only slightly!!) and the car oversteered bordering on dangerous. A small change to lessen the rebound and the car handled near neutral with a slight tendency to oversteer. Rode better too.


Do you have any proof that Tokico's only went on Marauders? Tokico is the OEM manufacture for plenty of cars from plenty of automakers. Any proof that Marauder air springs have a different rate? Just because something has a different part number, especially a Ford engineering part number does not mean anything - Ford changes part numbers everyday.

Proof . . . well, the Marauder air springs are color-coded with different piston sizes which is what determines their rate. You can look for yourself. As for the shocks, they can't be the same as the other cars for the reasons I described - wouldn't ride nice. Ford couldn't sell the cars. It may be possible to "prove" that, but I'm not going to do it for you.

There is an old saying about leading a horse to water. I have explained in great detail what I have done to overcome the lack of easily-available shocks to match my performance suspension setup. I have 600 lbs/in springs in the front of my car, far stiffer than your Eibachs. Yet my car rides great and handles like it is on rails.

The proof is in driving the car. Works for me, not for you. Can't do anything about that, and although I do care about the small Marauder community and am willing to help, there will be no providing of "proof" unless you visit Northern California. And BTW, I do believe you that those GT500 brakes are not a big improvement, at least not as much as the car could use.

Perhaps you were soured on the whole adjustable shock idea by those bad Naake's? Not to mention it can be rather tricky. But Penske is not Naake. They are widely regarded as one of the best in the business. Check out what is under the race cars next time you're at the track. Or call Angelo at Anze Suspension.

Edit: You know why adjustable shocks exist right? It sure isn't so you can crawl under the car and adjust them for a day at the track vs. a soft everyday ride. They are adjustable so you can match them to your springs and sway bar.

[detrailers]

Almost have all my parts together. Got the Camber kit today and the new bump stops for the rear. KYBs shipped out yesterday and should be here tomorrow. Have 2 questions, #1 I thought I read that there was a conflict with the rear sway bar when dropping the rear 1"...I plan on doing Addco's... #2 will I need new bump stops for the front?

[Logizyme]

Nope and nope.

The only conflict with the rear sway bar is with some aftermarket differential covers.

The front bump stops will be fine for most reasonable lowering jobs. If your going extreme you may want to cut the front bump stop down, which is completely reasonable if you are going 2+ inches lower, not that there are any better alternatives to cutting/removing the front bump stop.

[lifespeed]

The Addco hollow rear sway bar is a larger diameter and will hit the stock diff cover on lowered cars when the suspension is compressed. All that is required is shorter end links be used to remedy the interference.

Most folks here used the solid rear bar which I assume is different in this regard. But 5 lbs unsprung weight does matter . . .

[detrailers]

The Addco hollow rear sway bar is a larger diameter and will hit the stock diff cover on lowered cars when the suspension is compressed. All that is required is shorter end links be used to remedy the interference.

Most folks here used the solid rear bar which I assume is different in this regard. But 5 lbs unsprung weight does matter . . .

Great info. I have always done these on my CVs.... How do I get the shorter end links?... Contact Addco and how much shorter would I want?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=231297685866&alt=web

[lifespeed]

Great info. I have always done these on my CVs....

The sway bar you linked is a solid (http://www.neverenoughauto.com/p-6123-addco-rear-anti-sway-bar-650.aspx) sway bar, not tubular (hollow) (http://www.neverenoughauto.com/p-6125-addco-rear-anti-sway-bar-2271.aspx). There are some differences. My rear sway bar end link comments are for the tubular #2271 sway bar which is larger diameter (although the same spring rate), weighs less, costs more, and is shaped slightly different.



How do I get the shorter end links?... Contact Addco and how much shorter would I want?


See post #38 (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1333336#post1 333336)for a rundown on rear sway bar end links and tubular rear sway bar installation.

[detrailers]

Trying to lower it today following advice on another thread but cannot get the upper CA bolts past the loosened spring. Tried moving the spring all over and they wouldn't come out. Is there a different way by separating the lower CA from the spindle?

[justbob]

Trying to lower it today following advice on another thread but cannot get the upper CA bolts past the loosened spring. Tried moving the spring all over and they wouldn't come out. Is there a different way by separating the lower CA from the spindle?


Remove the upper spindle to upper A arm nut. Pry the lower control arm down and pull the shock assembly out a tad. Then go back to the bolts your struggling with and rotate them 180* so the flat spot slides past the spring.


Builder Of Badassery

[detrailers]

Thanks for the info....I'm a bit defeated today and will try tommorow. Plus looks like I am going g to need a spring compressor

[justbob]

Thanks for the info....I'm a bit defeated today and will try tommorow. Plus looks like I am going g to need a spring compressor


You can rent them for free at most auto part stores. They are cheap to buy also.


Builder Of Badassery

[detrailers]

Remove the upper spindle to upper A arm nut. Pry the lower control arm down and pull the shock assembly out a tad. Then go back to the bolts your struggling with and rotate them 180* so the flat spot slides past the spring.


Builder Of Badassery

ok so im going to take another stab at this in the next few days, would it be better to just remove the lower control arm to spindle nut, drop the LCA and slide the whole thing out from the bottom?

Also, how does the sway bar disassemble from the spindle. I put a wrench on it and it turned and turnedandturnedandturned.

(I know I sound like a rookie here but i'm quite mech inclined, just no where near you guys and a newbie to suspension)

[justbob]

ok so im going to take another stab at this in the next few days, would it be better to just remove the lower control arm to spindle nut, drop the LCA and slide the whole thing out from the bottom?



Also, how does the sway bar disassemble from the spindle. I put a wrench on it and it turned and turnedandturnedandturned.



(I know I sound like a rookie here but i'm quite mech inclined, just no where near you guys and a newbie to suspension)

No need. Just insert a prybar in the lower and pull down and wiggle the shock out.



Builder Of Badassery

[clmrt]

I stood on my lower arm assembly and shoved the coilover in. Plenty of room.

[JBeezy]

I stood on my lower arm assembly and shoved the coilover in. Plenty of room.
X2. ^^^^^^^

[detrailers]

I stood on my lower arm assembly and shoved the coilover in. Plenty of room.

Upper A arm to spindle nut connected or not?

[JBeezy]

Connected. Just make sure car is up high enough for the a arm to swing down

[clmrt]

aye 45678910

[detrailers]

OK last question before I tackle this again tommorow. Should I cut the one coil from the top of bottom of spring pack?

[JBeezy]

I cut 1 off the top

[detrailers]

OK, finally got a spring/shock out (rookie nightmare) scared to death to unleash the spring. How much more should I compress it before undoing the top retaining nut??

[MOTOWN]

Compress it until the tension is off of the upper spring collar , do not attempt to remove the nut until then.

[detrailers]

I know that I just wondering if the pic looks like it is compressed enough

[MOTOWN]

I know that I just wondering if the pic looks like it is compressed enough

LOL looks have nothing to do with it , either the tension is off of the spring collar or its not , if you attempt to remove that nut with tension still on the collar get a good look first at your unmutilated body!

[detrailers]

Oh My Friggin Gawd
it's done.
I design and fabricate things for a living so I not not a rookie to mechanical things but this was my first suspension job. I have new respect for coil springs and how easily they can take your head off. They scare me.....anyway it's done and the looks and ride improvement are astounding. Will snap some pics tomorrow and post.

[clmrt]

Love the trailer hitch.

[Bad_S55]

Great info. I have always done these on my CVs.... How do I get the shorter end links?... Contact Addco and how much shorter would I want?

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=231297685866&alt=web

This bar you linked, is it an Addco or just an off brand 1" bar?

[detrailers]

This bar you linked, is it an Addco or just an off brand 1" bar?
not sure...I'll let you know when I get it. Got fed up with Addco pushing their build date off enlessly. Didn't feel like waiting the 4/21 for a sway bar. This might just be another Addco reseller and I might get an email from them saying it's delayed....if it is an Addco it's and great price...if it isn't I figure it's just a 1" piece of steel and can't be too bad and must be better than the stock paper clip bar

[JBeezy]

Looks good. Now get an alignment

[lifespeed]

This might just be another Addco reseller and I might get an email from them saying it's delayed....

This . . .

only ADDCO makes the bars, pretty sure eBay guy doesn't stock anything.

I had to wait a long time also.

[detrailers]

Looks good. Now get an alignment

thurs, already have the camber kit

[detrailers]

This . . .

only ADDCO makes the bars, pretty sure eBay guy doesn't stock anything.

I had to wait a long time also.
well he goes way out of his way to NOT say its an Addco - anyway, a great price, I guess ill stand in line like the rest of us.

Funny im getting the feeling Addco is getting away from making bars for our cars - have bought 6 over the years and never a wait like this one...

[lifespeed]

well he goes way out of his way to NOT say its an Addco - anyway, a great price, I guess ill stand in line like the rest of us.

Of course he doesn't say who actually makes them, he wants to get his cut of the profit. If there was a supplier other than ADDCO we would know about it.

[chief455]

Love the trailer hitch.
shin knicker:eek:
funny, I took the 1 cut front coil springs out of my car and returned it to stock. Improved the ride immensely. To each their own. Good job, these are a hassle when never done before.

[lifespeed]

funny, I took the 1 cut front coil springs out of my car and returned it to stock. Improved the ride immensely. To each their own. Good job, these are a hassle when never done before.

Perhaps a shock replacement was done at the same time?

[chief455]

Perhaps a shock replacement was done at the same time?
Actually I had already replaced the front shocks, and found the cut springs. The shocks went on with control arms, so that did feel better too.
The new springs later helped the 'bottoming out over bump' feeling, and raised the floor, making it easier to get in / out of the car.
Springs made a more noticeable improvement than the shocks, in my case.

[lifespeed]

Actually I had already replaced the front shocks, and found the cut springs. The shocks went on with control arms, so that did feel better too.
The new springs later helped the 'bottoming out over bump' feeling, and raised the floor, making it easier to get in / out of the car.
Springs made a more noticeable improvement than the shocks, in my case.

It all works together, the right combination is key.

[detrailers]

This . . .

only ADDCO makes the bars, pretty sure eBay guy doesn't stock anything.

I had to wait a long time also.

They marked it shipped today! I'm shocked

[Zack]

thurs, already have the camber kit

Is the camber kit installed? If not, get ready to pay some coin for installation.

[detrailers]

Is the camber kit installed? If not, get ready to pay some coin for installation.
how bad could it be??

[RubberCtyRauder]

Here is a video by the company that makes them, SPC, although they can be purchased other places for cheaper.

http://spcalignment.net/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=87365

[Bad_S55]

They marked it shipped today! I'm shocked

They're out of stock now :(

[camelgrundle]

Installing te camber kit is a pain in the ass but better than paying 200 or so for a shop to do it.

[detrailers]

Installing te camber kit is a pain in the ass but better than paying 200 or so for a shop to do it.
AFTER THE LOWING JOB ILL GLADLY PAY THE $200

[detrailers]

Here is a video by the company that makes them, SPC, although they can be purchased other places for cheaper.

http://spcalignment.net/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=87365
HOLY COW Ill be lucky if $200 is all it is...

[detrailers]

They're out of stock now :(

I cant believe I found one hiding in the dark corners of eBay

Tracking #:1Z1Y11010332949058
Carrier:UPS
Status:ACCEPTED
ORIGIN SCAN
2015-03-17, 20:18:00, LENEXA, KS

[lifespeed]

HOLY COW Ill be lucky if $200 is all it is...

It makes a lot of sense to install the camber adjust bolts at the same time the lower control arms are replaced.

[clmrt]

HOLY COW Ill be lucky if $200 is all it is...

I paid $250, including the alignment. Make sure they torque everything properly. My guy didn't, alignment slipped, had to go back.

Looking for another guy.

[camelgrundle]

If you have a die grinder it's not bad. I tried using a step bit the first time and ended up filing most of it down by hand which sucked lol

[detrailers]

Or, you can dremel out the current slots for more adjustment. ;)
FYI the slots need to get ground out even with the SBC kit. Sitting here at the alignment shop getting it done as I type!

[camelgrundle]

That's the only way the camber bolts will make a difference.

[detrailers]

Done, and judging from how long I sat and waited for it I consider it a bargain at $244 which included the alignment. they started at 9 a.m. and it was completed at 1pm..I can't even imagine how long it would have taken doing it in my garage...

[clmrt]

Now drive the absolute **** out of it.

[detrailers]

This . . .

only ADDCO makes the bars, pretty sure eBay guy doesn't stock anything.

I had to wait a long time also.
Has a Dorman part number - 1" bar - what am I missing here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-Stabilizer-Bar-Rear-Dorman-927-159-/351309226799?pt=Motors_Car_Tru ck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AMercury%7CModel%3A Marauder&hash=item51cba9632f&vxp=mtr

[detrailers]

Just got my rear bar...so there is another mfg of the 1" rear bars...Dorman....who would have thought. Do you think these are rebranded Addcos....wondering if I should make a new post letting everyone know since Addcos are a pain to get lately.

[jwibbity]

Just got my rear bar...so there is another mfg of the 1" rear bars...Dorman....who would have thought. Do you think these are rebranded Addcos....wondering if I should make a new post letting everyone know since Addcos are a pain to get lately.

Put it on the car and then make the post! :beer:

[detrailers]

FAIL! I knew it was too good to be true. only (very) slightly thicker than 1" bar. advertised as a 1" bar but only .880 on the micrometer. what a dud.

EDIT - Sorry to hijack this thread away from lowering but hope to help others, I emailed Addco and they responded that they will go into production next week. I ordered the bar from Summit and by calling them directly they said mine would ship quicker than if I ordered from their site. Fortunately the seller on eBay is good, they emailed me a prepaid return label.

[chief455]

FAIL! I knew it was too good to be true. only (very) slightly thicker than 1" bar. advertised as a 1" bar but only .880 on the micrometer. what a dud.

.
stock is .830 - that Dorman is a good factory replacement....