My Return fuel system build

[cougar9150]

I'm putting together my fuel system as I'm finally getting ready to install my SC in the beginning of next year.I'm looking for a little input as this is my first returnless to return conversion and I would like some opinions and or ideas

What I have:
2 AEM 320lph pumps
60 lb injectors

What I need:
Y-block (-10AN)
Bulkhead fittings (-10AN)
-10AN to -8AN reducer (y-block output)
Filter (going with aeromotive forget part number right now)
Fuel rails (going with division x from lethal)
Regulator (having a hard time picking what one I want)
Wiring (2 relays, hobbs switch for 2nd pump, and connector for fuel hat)
Stock line to AN adapter

My plan is to run -10AN out from the bulkheads into the y-block. -8AN from y-block to filter and onto the fuel rails, and I'll be using the stock feed for my return.

I will be using the FPDM to trigger my relays so I have to set it to 100% on all the time in my tune. This will allow the pumps to prime and shut off like factory but will keep the relays latched while the engine is on.

Anyone have recommendations on types (pushlock or ferruled) and brands of fittings, hose type to use (want braided) but not sure I can use with pushlock hose and any other general info you can share.

I will be documenting this as I make the conversion so that we can have a comprehensive write up with pics.

Zack do you still have that spreadsheet? I can't download it from your other posts anymore.

[mad1stgen]

Sounds like a decent plan. The only thing I can think of, is to try and use the teflon lined braided lines. IMHO these are the only true lines than do not stink. Plus they're E85 compatible if you decide to go that way in the future.

[Zack]

-10 is way too big, WAAAAYYY too big.
All you need is a 3/8" Y fitting inside the tank, to a -8 bulkhead connector.
Use the stock feed line as the return line.
Doesnt get much simpler than that.

I think I removed the Fuel System .pdf because I realized it was over complicated.

[Zack]

Here is one I did recently on a different car (not Marauder)
Keep it SIMPLE.

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn306/Marauder-Z/1993%20Hot%20Rod%20Lincoln/91843AC8-A377-43EF-AAD8-5A5A002D3AFE_zps2xseda21.jpg (http://s307.photobucket.com/user/Marauder-Z/media/1993%20Hot%20Rod%20Lincoln/91843AC8-A377-43EF-AAD8-5A5A002D3AFE_zps2xseda21.jpg.h tml)

[Zack]

FYI a -8 fuel system can support 1500rwhp.

[MOTOWN]

An FPDM has no place in a return fuel system.

[Zack]

An FPDM has no place in a return fuel system.

It does if you want the FRPS to function.
And on that note, it has 2 functions:

-Electronic datalogging
-Compensating for fuel pressure drop by increasing the Fuel Injector Duty Cycle, which could save your engine.

Personally, I remove it.

[MOTOWN]

It does if you want the FRPS to function.
And on that note, it has 2 functions:

-Electronic datalogging
-Compensating for fuel pressure drop by increasing the Fuel Injector Duty Cycle, which could save your engine.

Personally, I remove it.

I removed the FPDM , and with a good aeromotive regulator there won't be any fuel pressure drop which is the purpose of the regulator.

[Zack]

I removed the FPDM , and with a good aeromotive regulator there won't be any fuel pressure drop which is the purpose of the regulator.

Correct, but if one of your 2 pumps fail causing a drop in pressure, the pcm can open the injectors up longer and literally save your engine.

[MOTOWN]

Correct, but if one of your 2 pumps fail causing a drop in pressure, the pcm can open the injectors up longer and literally save your engine.

True! but this is also why i believe in buying good pumps , if say one of my Walbro 400s fails , i can safely drive home on one pump.

[Jeronimojc]

It does if you want the FRPS to function.

And on that note, it has 2 functions:



-Electronic datalogging

-Compensating for fuel pressure drop by increasing the Fuel Injector Duty Cycle, which could save your engine.



Personally, I remove it.


Zack, given these two functions and additional redundancy, why remove it? Is it to keep things simple?


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[Zack]

Zack, given these two functions and additional redundancy, why remove it? Is it to keep things simple?


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Personal preference is the only answer.

[justbob]

Aftermarket never fails. :rolleyes:

[cougar9150]

Not sure why I didn't really think about using a in tank y. Much cleaner and I only need to punch one hole in my fuel hat. I'll drop it down to -8AN out the hat to the rail. Was basically just copying a build on another site but adapting it to our car.

I'm keeping the fpdm because my tuner likes it for data logging.

[Jeronimojc]

How is it going with your mod? I am also keeping the FPDM and FRPS so I was curious to see if this is just a matter of using the stock wiring or what. I haven't researched this much. Also, how are you routing the thicker wire from the battery to the pumps?

EDIT: Or does the thicker wire go from the battery to the FPDM? Shows you how much I know...
EDIT: Maybe this is common knowledge here, but I had no clue. I came across a very good thread addressing how you can wire the FPDM in a return system to prime the pump(s) with the engine off, just like the stock setup and, if desired, using a toggle switch to bypass the FPDM. I am definitely considering going in this direction. Here's a link to the thread. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?825181-Return-style-wiring-HOW-TO-allowing-OE-type-fuel-pump-actuation.

If I understand the concept, the thicker wire (assuming a wire upgrade) runs from the battery (and fuse) to the pump with a relay. The FPDM wire that used to run to the pump is now used to drive the relay. The relay needs to be grounded to the FPDM. Tuning needs to be addressed as well. The toggle feature could come in handy to keep the pumps running during tuning, with the engine off, and if the FPDM ever quit working.

[cougar9150]

My mod is going nowhere at the moment. I got the car partially tore down and got rear ended in my truck ruining my back and neck.

Basically been physically out of commission since April and my car is collecting dust on jack stands now. Current goal is just to get the SS headers on when I physically can and get it running again as I may need to sell off SC stuff and/or the car to pay bills.

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