marauder hesitation but no codes

[swagjack85]

:mad2: I really need some help my car has no check engine lights but it Hesitation around 30-50 mph I change the Air filter, fuel filter spark plugs clean the egr valve and the icv valve still no help I got some seafoam but still has not did that yet also its a funny burn smell don't know where but it smell likr it could be the coils I really need some help on this

[gdmjoe]

Clean the MAF sensor.
.

[mcb26]

could be a coil.

[swagjack85]

I clean the maf

[swagjack85]

im thinking its the coil maybe some them getting weak but she haul ass tho but i need that fix

[whitey]

Itz gotta be dem COP's yo!


Seriously though, its your cop's. Buy new ones, buy only motorcraft.

[swagjack85]

where can I buy them

[cer0413]

Just try replacing the coils. I had the same problem earlier this year and another member on here donated some motorcraft coils. I replaced the rear coils which were cylinder 4 and 8 or try the swapping coil method and see if that helps. Good luck bro cha-cho

[swagjack85]

did it fix your car

[RubberCtyRauder]

How many miles on car? Can buy motorcraft coils from vendor here Sparta performance. Send them a pm thru here. They are not listed under marauder on the Sparta site.

[swagjack85]

my car got 152000

[1Marauder]

My silver has the same "lull" or "boat plane-ing" feeling... Not exactly a hesitation, but a "Lull" in pulling power.

[GetMeMyStogie]

My silver has the same "lull" or "boat plane-ing" feeling... Not exactly a hesitation, but a "Lull" in pulling power.
I had this lull too. Solved it by fixing the fuel curve around 3500-4000 rpm (iirc, the stock program leans out a bit here).

[71cyclone]

I had this lull too. Solved it by fixing the fuel curve around 3500-4000 rpm (iirc, the stock program leans out a bit here).
Yepp= upped mine 2 degrees and raised the 1-2 shift 2 mph after i replaced 4 coils

[HotRaud90]

Thought about starting a new thread, but decided to post in a couple that already addressed the issue since they're already here.

I've been experiencing the hiccup/hesitation/stutter issue that others have complained about. Cleaned MAF, IAC, air filter a couple thousand miles ago. Changed fuel filter a few thousand ago. The bucking only happens whenever I really hit the go fast pedal or when I get into the low rpms in OD.

Car has 83k on it and I haven't replaced plugs or COPs since I bought the car, nor do I have records that would indicate when or if they were ever replaced (bought car at 62k).

By what I've read, it looks like the answer to my problems will be COPs and/or plugs. Question is, should I replace both? Should I replace the whole set of COPs at the same time? I'm thinkin if I did both that I would replace one thing at a time, sparks or COPs. Which should come first?

[RubberCtyRauder]

could be torque converter shudder from lock/unlock..for the bucking

[fastblackmerc]

Thought about starting a new thread, but decided to post in a couple that already addressed the issue since they're already here.

I've been experiencing the hiccup/hesitation/stutter issue that others have complained about. Cleaned MAF, IAC, air filter a couple thousand miles ago. Changed fuel filter a few thousand ago. The bucking only happens whenever I really hit the go fast pedal or when I get into the low rpms in OD.

Car has 83k on it and I haven't replaced plugs or COPs since I bought the car, nor do I have records that would indicate when or if they were ever replaced (bought car at 62k).

By what I've read, it looks like the answer to my problems will be COPs and/or plugs. Question is, should I replace both? Should I replace the whole set of COPs at the same time? I'm thinkin if I did both that I would replace one thing at a time, sparks or COPs. Which should come first?

Plugs are cheap, so I'd replace them when replacing the COPs. You may have fouled plug(s) if COP(s) are bad... :dunno: why do the same work twice?????

[lifespeed]

Car has 83k on it and I haven't replaced plugs or COPs since I bought the car, nor do I have records that would indicate when or if they were ever replaced (bought car at 62k).

By what I've read, it looks like the answer to my problems will be COPs and/or plugs. Question is, should I replace both? Should I replace the whole set of COPs at the same time? I'm thinkin if I did both that I would replace one thing at a time, sparks or COPs. Which should come first?

Ordinarily one would be careful with cash and change the spark plugs first before spending the money on new coil packs. HOWEVER, this is such a common problem on these cars that I would lean towards recommending you change both COPS and plugs at the same time to save from doing the same job twice and prevent future problems.

Ford changed the COPS part number (and the internal design, I assume) from the version that shipped with our cars, which seem to have a high failure rate. Mine were sputtering as early as 40K to 50K miles. I have the newer Ford COPS now at 130K with no misfires since.

[HotRaud90]

Plugs are cheap, so I'd replace them when replacing the COPs. You may have fouled plug(s) if COP(s) are bad... :dunno: why do the same work twice?????

Thought about this very thing. Considered doing separate in order to have a way of telling exactly what the problem was. But, as you said, plugs are cheap...


Ordinarily one would be careful with cash and change the spark plugs first before spending the money on new coil packs. HOWEVER, this is such a common problem on these cars that I would lean towards recommending you change both COPS and plugs at the same time to save from doing the same job twice and prevent future problems.

Ford changed the COPS part number (and the internal design, I assume) from the version that shipped with our cars, which seem to have a high failure rate. Mine were sputtering as early as 40K to 50K miles. I have the newer Ford COPS now at 130K with no misfires since.

Thanks for the advice. I think based off the feedback I'm getting, that's what I'll do.

Thanks to all for the feedback.

[HotRaud90]

P/N M-12029-4V....is that the correct set for our motors? I'm seeing a lot of places list these as replacements for 5.4 DOHC motors such as the Shelby GT500. But Sparta also lists them as fitting 4.6 DOHC. Just want to make sure I'm pickin up the right parts.

[HotRaud90]

So after a little more research, I've seen a lot of evidence of people just replacing the stock "spring" connectors with Granatelli or comparable connectors ONLY. I've read that that the Granatelli connectors are much more reliable and provide better results than the OEM "spring" style connectors.

Rather than replacing the whole COP unit, should I just replace the connectors and boots with the GMS products? I've seen a lot of people saying that the OEM plugs are just fine and that it can be just the connectors that get fried and need replacing. Car is at 83,5xx and to my knowledge none of the said equipment has been changed. I would like to find the cheapest way to fix the "shudder" and the "hesitation" at low RPM ranges and WOT accel.

Is there a reliable way to test or see which ones are bad? I've heard that bad COPs can be pesky to pinpoint, but I'm not personally sure of this. Should I change all 8 COPs, or should I just change the connectors and boots with Granatelli equipment? I'm at a fork in the road and unsure which way is best.

[lifespeed]

So after a little more research, I've seen a lot of evidence of people just replacing the stock "spring" connectors with Granatelli or comparable connectors ONLY. I've read that that the Granatelli connectors are much more reliable and provide better results than the OEM "spring" style connectors.

Rather than replacing the whole COP unit, should I just replace the connectors and boots with the GMS products? I've seen a lot of people saying that the OEM plugs are just fine and that it can be just the connectors that get fried and need replacing. Car is at 83,5xx and to my knowledge none of the said equipment has been changed. I would like to find the cheapest way to fix the "shudder" and the "hesitation" at low RPM ranges and WOT accel.

Is there a reliable way to test or see which ones are bad? I've heard that bad COPs can be pesky to pinpoint, but I'm not personally sure of this. Should I change all 8 COPs, or should I just change the connectors and boots with Granatelli equipment? I'm at a fork in the road and unsure which way is best.

The Granatelli coil connectors are a decent product, I use them. That said the OEM connectors work fine as well.

Having gone down the road of trying to identify the misfiring coil(s) in my car, I can say it is a colossal waste of time. The nature of the problem is generally intermittent, making it more difficult to pinpoint the "bad" ones. And they are all the same bad design anyway. The ones you identify as "good" are probably intermittent, or will fail later. The new coils from Ford have been re-designed for good reason.

Just replace them all and be done with it! You can do the Granatelli connectors if you want, although it is not strictly necessary. Nor are they a substitute for replacing the ignition coils.

[fastblackmerc]

So after a little more research, I've seen a lot of evidence of people just replacing the stock "spring" connectors with Granatelli or comparable connectors ONLY. I've read that that the Granatelli connectors are much more reliable and provide better results than the OEM "spring" style connectors.

Rather than replacing the whole COP unit, should I just replace the connectors and boots with the GMS products? I've seen a lot of people saying that the OEM plugs are just fine and that it can be just the connectors that get fried and need replacing. Car is at 83,5xx and to my knowledge none of the said equipment has been changed. I would like to find the cheapest way to fix the "shudder" and the "hesitation" at low RPM ranges and WOT accel.

Is there a reliable way to test or see which ones are bad? I've heard that bad COPs can be pesky to pinpoint, but I'm not personally sure of this. Should I change all 8 COPs, or should I just change the connectors and boots with Granatelli equipment? I'm at a fork in the road and unsure which way is best.

If the COP(s) are going bad or are bad, replacing the connectors won't do anything. You'll still have failing or failed COPs.

Personally I'd replace all the spark plugs, COPs and use the Granetelli connectors.

Guess which one is the OEM connector........
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/COP/COP090.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/fastblackmerc/media/MM%20Mods/COP/COP090.jpg.html)

[Zack]

9 second Marauders and 8 second Cobras use stock connectors. Don't waste your money

[HotRaud90]

The Granatelli coil connectors are a decent product, I use them. That said the OEM connectors work fine as well.

Having gone down the road of trying to identify the misfiring coil(s) in my car, I can say it is a colossal waste of time. The nature of the problem is generally intermittent, making it more difficult to pinpoint the "bad" ones. And they are all the same bad design anyway. The ones you identify as "good" are probably intermittent, or will fail later. The new coils from Ford have been re-designed for good reason.

Just replace them all and be done with it! You can do the Granatelli connectors if you want, although it is not strictly necessary. Nor are they a substitute for replacing the ignition coils.

Well, I wasn't implying that connectors would be a substitute as much as I was bringing up the thought that maybe the coil plugs are ok, but the connectors are bad. That may not make sense, but hopefully you get the idea. I've read where the connectors are the only thing burnt up and bad either from moisture or the boot failing to protect it. I may be missing the point though.


If the COP(s) are going bad or are bad, replacing the connectors won't do anything. You'll still have failing or failed COPs.

Personally I'd replace all the spark plugs, COPs and use the Granetelli connectors.

Guess which one is the OEM connector........
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/COP/COP090.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/fastblackmerc/media/MM%20Mods/COP/COP090.jpg.html)

Ha! Yeah, I've seen that pic before.


9 second Marauders and 8 second Cobras use stock connectors. Don't waste your money

Noted. I'm tryin to spend the least amount possible on the fix, but it sounds like new COPs all around are in order. I think I'm gonna at least pull the covers and look at the condition of everything before I buy anything.

Although there may be some proven track cars using OEM connectors, I don't think that necessarily rules out the benefits of upgrading the connectors. I'm not here to say that it's going to add 8-10 hp on an N/A car, but there have been dyno proven test results using GMS (and comparable) products.

Thanks to all for the info/advice. Any additional advice or personal experience is appreciated. I'd rather be thorough.

[justbob]

I'm probably the only one here that will say the connectors are complete ****. Even after I sent the defective ones back due to bad crimps and received "hand picked" ones, they are still ****! Another stupid mod IMO.


Builder Of Badassery

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

Also check your PVC hose. Mine collapsed causing problems like that.

[1Marauder]

Also check your PVC hose. Mine collapsed causing problems like that.

Where is this, so I can check mine... Mine feels like a lull, not a stutter, it doesn't decrease power or sound... More of a flat spot where it stays the same instead of increasing, more like a boat planing out.... Before it again begins to spead up. I've got a tune that I like and JLT with clean air filter.

How do I cleN maf? My engine is spotless.

I was thinking fuel pump, or maybe the above mentioned hose collapsing.

What is the cop part number? I've already got new plus ready to go. Car only has 30,000 miles.