Alignment questions/concerns

[HotRaud90]

Went and got 4 new Nitto NT555 put on the MM today. Had the wheels Road Force balanced and then had the car aligned using the Hunter Hawkeye system.

When I gave the guy the specs I wanted (Carfixer specs), I let him know that he needed to remove the flags near the camber bolts in order to adjust accordingly. After some work, he got it out. He then set to getting the camber to right around 0 (give or take a couple points. Left side was real easy. Right around -.3. Right side? Not so much. The closest we could get was -1.2.

Essentially he said it was maxed out as far as it could go. He really couldn't get a good hold of the bolt head because of some of the flanges on the cross member that were surrounding it. Kept him from getting a lot of depth on the head. I personally watched him try 4-5 tools, including a shallow socket. Even when he did get hold of it, it looked like it was maxing out around that same range: -1.4 to -1.2.

Disappointing to say the least. Toe was right around zero, caster was ok I guess. He adjusted it slightly, but the car still just ever so slightly pulls to the right in some cases.

So my questions are: how do I remedy this? Think I should I take it back to get the slight pull fixed? Anything I'm missing?

Thanks in advance.

[RubberCtyRauder]

is your car lowered at all?

[HotRaud90]

As far as I know, no. I bought it from someone else though. Didn't appear to have cut coils when I looked underneath.

[marauderthis]

Do you have a good digital tire pressure gauge?
Next question.... What readings do you get for the front tires left and right and the rear tires?





Went and got 4 new Nitto NT555 put on the MM today. Had the wheels Road Force balanced and then had the car aligned using the Hunter Hawkeye system.

When I gave the guy the specs I wanted (Carfixer specs), I let him know that he needed to remove the flags near the camber bolts in order to adjust accordingly. After some work, he got it out. He then set to getting the camber to right around 0 (give or take a couple points. Left side was real easy. Right around -.3. Right side? Not so much. The closest we could get was -1.2.

Essentially he said it was maxed out as far as it could go. He really couldn't get a good hold of the bolt head because of some of the flanges on the cross member that were surrounding it. Kept him from getting a lot of depth on the head. I personally watched him try 4-5 tools, including a shallow socket. Even when he did get hold of it, it looked like it was maxing out around that same range: -1.4 to -1.2.

Disappointing to say the least. Toe was right around zero, caster was ok I guess. He adjusted it slightly, but the car still just ever so slightly pulls to the right in some cases.

So my questions are: how do I remedy this? Think I should I take it back to get the slight pull fixed? Anything I'm missing?

Thanks in advance.

[RubberCtyRauder]

If it was lowered, chances are it would need SPC camber bolts. Also, most roads are crowned for rain run off and can cause a car to pull to right.. Roads are generally higher in the middle double line area and lower at the shoulder to sheet water away.

[HotRaud90]

If it was lowered, chances are it would need SPC camber bolts. Also, most roads are crowned for rain run off and can cause a car to pull to right.. Roads are generally higher in the middle double line area and lower at the shoulder to sheet water away.

Still seems weird that one side would be harder to adjust than the other. Makes no sense, at least not to me.

Has anyone had to have the rack and pinion steering assembly moved out of the way to adjust the bolts? My guy did not attempt to remove it.

[fastblackmerc]

Still seems weird that one side would be harder to adjust than the other. Makes no sense, at least not to me.

Has anyone had to have the rack and pinion steering assembly moved out of the way to adjust the bolts? My guy did not attempt to remove it.

Sounds like your guy doesn't know what he's doing.....

You don't have to move the rack.

[HotRaud90]

Sounds like your guy doesn't know what he's doing.....

You don't have to move the rack.

Well, he's not really my go to guy. Just a tech at local Ford dealership. But yeah, not sure what gives here. Some of the tags from the flag around the bolt were left stuck to the head of the bolt. Made it hard to get a grip with any tool really because the wrenches/sockets couldn't really grip all the way down to the base of the bolt head when attempting to torque it down. He was afraid of rounding the head, in which case I'd really be stuck. Anyone experienced this?

[Blackmobile]

Sounds like you need an alignment tech with more experience, to have the tags still attached to the bolt when they can easily be knocked off. Weather your Marauder is lowered or not, the camber kit give you more camber adjust-ability.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSKa5827DfI&spfreload=10



Well, he's not really my go to guy. Just a tech at local Ford dealership. But yeah, not sure what gives here. Some of the tags from the flag around the bolt were left stuck to the head of the bolt. Made it hard to get a grip with any tool really because the wrenches/sockets couldn't really grip all the way down to the base of the bolt head when attempting to torque it down. He was afraid of rounding the head, in which case I'd really be stuck. Anyone experienced this?

[HotRaud90]

Sounds like you need an alignment tech with more experience, to have the tags still attached to the bolt when they can easily be knocked off. Weather your Marauder is lowered or not, the camber kit give you more camber adjust-ability.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSKa5827DfI&spfreload=10

Well, it took a bit of elbow grease and a BFH to get the flag off. When it did come off, it left some of the spot weld tags (or whatever they are) on the bolt head - the little pieces that held the flag to the bolt head. Wasn't sure how to get those off as they are very tiny. He said an electric saw wouldn't fit in there between the rack assembly and the cross member without hitting them. Too tight of a space.

[Logizyme]

Grinder to get the flag off.

Problem is the large enough wrench to fit on the front side of the subframe. I have to borrow one when I do my alignment.

With a proper size wrench there is no need to loosen the steering gear.

On the back side a deep socket works perfectly. Don't know what the issue is. Like others have said, better alignment tech.

[justbob]

If it was lowered, chances are it would need SPC camber bolts. Also, most roads are crowned for rain run off and can cause a car to pull to right.. Roads are generally higher in the middle double line area and lower at the shoulder to sheet water away.


Like he said ^^^

Get two of these and re-align it.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sps-87365


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