Front Upper Control Arms

[Bob Mathis]

Here are some new control arms I found on Rock Auto . They are Moog CK80040 and ck80038. Tell me what you think. The only reason I need to replace mine the boots are torn.

Are these better than the stock one's?

[MOTOWN]

Nothing new about those , Get a set of Napa control arms which are the Moog forged arms.

[fastblackmerc]

I'd go with the forged arms.

Looks like this:
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Frt%20Ctrl%20Arm_zpsuptjr hhn.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/fastblackmerc/media/MM%20Frt%20Ctrl%20Arm_zpsuptjr hhn.jpg.html)

[eric jones]

Nothing new about those , Get a set of Napa control arms which are the Moog forged arms.
Would you happen to know the part number for these?

[fastblackmerc]

Would you happen to know the part number for these?

Checkout NAPAonline.com.........

NCP 2605222 - Left side upper w/ ball joint and bushings

NCP 2605261 - Left side lower w/ ball joint and bushings

NCP 2605221 - Right side upper w/ ball joint and bushings

NCP 2605262 - Right side lower w/ ball joint and bushings

[Bob Mathis]

I just talked to Moog and the ones I show the pictures of are there new improved. The part numbers are CK80040 and CK80038. I am going to get them from Rock Auto. $100.41 delivered.

[crownvic05]

I just talked to Moog and the ones I show the pictures of are there new improved. The part numbers are CK80040 and CK80038. I am going to get them from Rock Auto. $100.93 delivered.

Had these installed in my 05 crown vic early this month as well as front endlinks. big improvement. Dont regreat it.

[Bob Mathis]

Just placed the order.

[Bob Mathis]

Got the A arms and they look great. Just like the pictures. :):banana:

[eric jones]

Got the A arms and they look great. Just like the pictures. :):banana:
Are they stamped or forged construction?

[Bob Mathis]

They are stamped and reinforced. Moog say that is the new improved one's. Look at the pictures I posted.

[Bruce Wayne]

I'm going with genuine Motorcraft, anyone know the part numbers? Thanks'

[71cyclone]

The new motor craft Upper arms are box design ,the original are tubular cast design and the MOOG arms are similar to the old tubular cast design.[
Just saying] I have replaced mine at 105,000, [ motor craft ,from dealer new box CAST design] and the handling is the same [ it seams]

[Zack]

I have the stamped steel units on my DD.
Absolutely zero difference in feel, etc from the forged units.

[Vortech347]

While swapping out the drivers side ball joint on mine tonight I noticed the upper ball joints were torn and the bushings at the ends were cracked to hell. I just ordered the MOOG RK80040 and RK80038's. Also my sway bar end link was hammered so I picked up a pair from vatozone. (couldn't wait need the car tomorrow). The uppers look to be cake to change.

[MOTOWN]

While swapping out the drivers side ball joint on mine tonight I noticed the upper ball joints were torn and the bushings at the ends were cracked to hell. I just ordered the MOOG RK80040 and RK80038's. Also my sway bar end link was hammered so I picked up a pair from vatozone. (couldn't wait need the car tomorrow). The uppers look to be cake to change.

You will have to remove the shocks to replace the upper control arms.

[Bob Mathis]

New A arms are installed. Not to bad a job when you have a lift to use.:)

[Vortech347]

Got my arms. They are one piece forged. What are the torque specs for the frame bolts and the ball joint? Also the strut assembly.

[Logizyme]

Not sure why so many listings refer to them as forged - as the OE's and the "forged" replacements are actually cast steel.

Two versions, stamped steel and cast steel.

[fastblackmerc]

Got my arms. They are one piece forged. What are the torque specs for the frame bolts and the ball joint? Also the strut assembly.

I'll look it up when I get home tonight.

[fastblackmerc]

Got my arms. They are one piece forged. What are the torque specs for the frame bolts and the ball joint? Also the strut assembly.

Upper arm to cross member - 111 lb-ft
Upper ball joint to wheel knuckle - 111 lb-ft
Shock absorber upper mount - 22 lb-ft
Shock absorber lower mount - 166 lb-ft

What else you need?

[ctrlraven]

Sweet! Part numbers and torque specs, plan on replacing my front suspension stuff in the next few months.

[Vortech347]

Upper arm to cross member - 111 lb-ft
Upper ball joint to wheel knuckle - 111 lb-ft
Shock absorber upper mount - 22 lb-ft
Shock absorber lower mount - 166 lb-ft

What else you need?

Thank you very much! I'm going to work on them this weekend. Looks pretty simple to do.

[fastblackmerc]

Upper arm to cross member - 111 lb-ft
Upper ball joint to wheel knuckle - 111 lb-ft
Shock absorber upper mount - 22 lb-ft
Shock absorber lower mount - 166 lb-ft

What else you need?

Here's the rest

Lower arm to crossmember - 166 lb-ft
Lower arm to frame - 85 lb-ft
Lower ball joint to wheel knuckle - 111 lb-ft
Stabilizer bar links - - 46 lb-ft
Stabilizer bar bracket to frame - 46 lb-ft
Wheel bearing and hub to wheel knuckle - 74 lb-ft
Caliper anchor to wheel knuckle - 118 lb-ft
Steering gear to crossmember - 13 lb-ft
Shock absorber top stud nut - 37 lb-ft
Tie rod end to wheel knuckle - 59 lb-ft

[Vortech347]

What did you guys do with the three washers that came with each arm?

[Bob Mathis]

Has you can see in my first post that there where only two washers. One for each bushing nuts.

[lifespeed]

They are stamped and reinforced. Moog say that is the new improved one's. Look at the pictures I posted.

LOL, yeah, improved their profit margin!

[Blackmobile]

Just replaced an upper CA and only used 2 of the three washers.



What did you guys do with the three washers that came with each arm?

[Vortech347]

Finally found the install directions from MOOG's site. My car didn't need the washers because of its build date but I did run into a problem.

I now have a pop in the front end when I turn the wheel while backing out of my driveway. Everything else its tight and aligned ok. After trying to re-torque everything I noticed a few things and I need advice on what to do.

The passenger side upper ball joint will not torque. I aired it on then tried to torque it. It will only get about 60-70ftlbs on it before it turns. You can see about a few hundredths of the coned washer on the shaft sitting in the knuckle. The driver side goes much deeper into the knuckle and smashes the boot around the cone and has substantially more threads out of the nut, also it torqued to the 111-ft-lb no problem as the lower ball joints did too.

WTF is going on? I've also noticed the cone shaped washer/fitting does not spin but the shaft does. I tried to use an allen wrench in the shaft and a large wrench on the nut but it just stripped out the stupid allen shape in the shaft. I feel like such a newbie with this issue.

[justbob]

Just back it off again with the gun and hit it again till it stops. No need to torque those.


Builder Of Badassery

[Blackmobile]

I've noticed after the install that when the wheel turns so does the shaft, and subsequently the boot twists. I’d recommend after supporting the wheel, loosen the 2 bolts the arm pivots on and remove the shaft from the spindle assembly. With the wheel straight re-install the shaft and tighten down, then tighten the other 2 bolts. From this point you can torque down all bolts, reassemble, and see if you are still having the issue. Just a thought!

[Vortech347]

So here's what I came up with.

Passenger side that I could not get torqued: a friend recommended a pry bar to push down forcing a tighter fit while using the impact. It worked great. Was able to get the required torque.

Driver side that didn't look right: it wasn't right. I just installed the arm without looking it over. Turns out the ball joint did not have the cone shaped washer on the end of it. I was able to get one off the factory arms (so glad trash man hadn't came yet). And was able to get that side done correctly.

Last issue that I thought having this resolved would fix, didn't. I get a pop from the driver side when backing out of my driveway or a parking spot at almost full lock too the right. So frustrating.

[MOTOWN]

I had the poping issue, it was a lower ball joint.

[Vortech347]

I had the poping issue, it was a lower ball joint.

I just installed MOOG lower ball joints three weeks ago. Everything was quiet until I did the upper arms. I don't get it. The only good news is that I've got the clunk narrowed down to the driver side. I had the wife back the car in and out while I walked next do it. Driver side for sure.

[jimlam56]

I just installed MOOG lower ball joints three weeks ago. Everything was quiet until I did the upper arms. I don't get it. The only good news is that I've got the clunk narrowed down to the driver side. I had the wife back the car in and out while I walked next do it. Driver side for sure.


So how'd this turn out for you?

[Bob Mathis]

They turned out great for me.

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

I had a earlier post about the Motorcraft replacements.
They were so much "beefier" then the originals.
7 more years of improving CVPI helped.

[HotRaud90]

I'm havin some trouble getting the nut off of the bolt the connects the upper control arm to the spindle. When I turn the nut, the whole ball joint assembly, including the dry rotted dust cover, spins and the nut doesn't loosen. I see an allen wrench fitting at the end of the bolt and will try that tomorrow, but I see Vortech347 tried that to no avail.

Any other solutions in case the allen wrench doesn't work and gets stripped? This problem was the final complication that forced me to put everything up for the night and call it quits. Too many hang-ups for one job. Ready to get everything out and swap in new parts already.

[MOTOWN]

I'm havin some trouble getting the nut off of the bolt the connects the upper control arm to the spindle. When I turn the nut, the whole ball joint assembly, including the dry rotted dust cover, spins and the nut doesn't loosen. I see an allen wrench fitting at the end of the bolt and will try that tomorrow, but I see Vortech347 tried that to no avail.

Any other solutions in case the allen wrench doesn't work and gets stripped? This problem was the final complication that forced me to put everything up for the night and call it quits. Too many hang-ups for one job. Ready to get everything out and swap in new parts already.

If the allen wrench doesn't work, or strips out use an air chisel split/cut the nut off.

[HotRaud90]

If the allen wrench doesn't work, or strips out use an air chisel split/cut the nut off.

I wish I had one at my disposal. It's an option, but not preferable of course. Here's to hoping the allen wrench works...

Any one else have any experience with this problem? I might PM Vortech and see exactly what he did to get his off. I know he had trouble gettin it torqued right.

[justbob]

I've had good luck prying it apart with a pickle fork while blasting with an air gun. Just a wobble extension is needed to gain access.

Sometimes just the speed of the gun is good enough.


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