Hey kirk...

[Matt34]

Got me a little cheap compression gauge finally and going to do a compression test on that motor this week.

Is it ok to get the number one piston at tdc and then screw in the thing in the correct spark plug hole and start turning it over to get your reading??

And is that the only one you have to do and around what should the gauge reading be???

I have a manual but I'm being lazy, would greatly appreciate any input from you and anyone else who feels like helping.

Thanks again :bows:

[fastblackmerc]

Doesn't need to be at TDC.

Prop open the carb, so you get the max amount of air into the engine.

It helps to have a good battery and a charger available so you get the same energy cranking the starter for each cylinder.

Disconnect the coil wire.

Remove all the spark plugs.

Test each cylinder, cranking the engine over for about 10 seconds.

Record each reading.

The readings should be within 10% of each other.

You may want to do it while the engine is warm.

[kirk]

^^^ What he said.

[martyo]

^^^^ What they said!

[Matt34]

Ok so start the car and let it heat up 20 minutes or so. Turn it off and remove all spark plugs and disconnect the wires from the ignition coil. Then just go one by one screwing the fitting into the plug hole and turning the engine over for about 10 seconds for each???

Sounds easy enough, I hope the gauge sticks to its reading when I stop turning the key because I won't have any help. If it doesn't will it hurt to jump it with a screw driver across the selenoid to turn it so I can watch the gauge at the same time?

Also have breather removed and carb propped open.

[fastblackmerc]

Ok so start the car and let it heat up 20 minutes or so. Turn it off and remove all spark plugs and disconnect the wires from the ignition coil. Then just go one by one screwing the fitting into the plug hole and turning the engine over for about 10 seconds for each???

Sounds easy enough, I hope the gauge sticks to its reading when I stop turning the key because I won't have any help. If it doesn't will it hurt to jump it with a screw driver across the selenoid to turn it so I can watch the gauge at the same time?

Also have breather removed and carb propped open.

Just have to remove one wire from the coil... the center one that goes to the distributor.

Buy a remote starter switch, available at any FLAPS.

[fastblackmerc]

This is what it looks like:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/otc-heavy-duty-remote-starter-switch-otc3650/28031716-P?searchTerm=remote+starter

[Matt34]

Well I got the old lady to help me, did everything as instructed except removed the two wires from the coil but not the big one that goes to the distributor cap. And by holding the carb open I thought you meant the flap on top that opens when it is heated. At least I hope thats what you meant because thats what i did, lol.

All cylinders read between 145 and 150. All but one at 150.

Had to switch batteries half way through.

Do you think the excessive smoking is due to the rings being stuck as a result of the car not really being driven???

[fastblackmerc]

Well I got the old lady to help me, did everything as instructed except removed the two wires from the coil but not the big one that goes to the distributor cap. And by holding the carb open I thought you meant the flap on top that opens when it is heated. At least I hope thats what you meant because thats what i did, lol.

All cylinders read between 145 and 150. All but one at 150.

Had to switch batteries half way through.

Do you think the excessive smoking is due to the rings being stuck as a result of the car not really being driven???

Much easier to remove the coil wire out of the top the distributor and ground it on the engine or intake manifold.

You need to hold the choke open and the throttle open all the way.

Good readings.

I doubt the rings are sticking. If they were you'd see lower readings.

I bet the valve stem seals are shot.

[kirk]

Good readings.

I doubt the rings are sticking. If they were you'd see lower readings.

I bet the valve stem seals are shot.

I'll second that.

[Matt34]

I'll second that.

I just replaced all the valve stem seals, the little umbrella shaped rubber things under the springs that slide over the valves, right??? Unless they gave me the wrong ones but they seem to fit right.

There was one valve on the number 1 or 2 cylinder that didnt look quite like the rest, the end of it under the keepers looked kinda chewed up like it had been grabbed with a pair of pliers or something like that.

Thought I may have done it trying to figure out how to use that spring removal tool but not sure..

Gonna see this week about getting insurance put back on it and re registering it and drive a tank of gas out of it, maybe it just needs to be driven to get everything lubed up and working properly. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Thanks again to everyone for the help, you have no idea how much I appreciate it.

[Matt34]

Much easier to remove the coil wire out of the top the distributor and ground it on the engine or intake manifold.

You need to hold the choke open and the throttle open all the way.

Good readings.

I doubt the rings are sticking. If they were you'd see lower readings.

I bet the valve stem seals are shot.

I think I just replaced those, all I did was slide the old ones off and new ones on after removing the keepers and springs, was I suppose to do something else when installing them???

Maybe the thing just needs to be driven some, let you know how it turns out and thank you for your help, I really appreciate it.