Seeking suspension advice

[Lowndex]

With my new motor, blower, exhaust,...., what suspension changes should I make to help this amateur drive take advantage of the added power. Separate from learning to drive better, what do you guys recommend, please?

FYI:
a. I have a Metal Matrix drive shaft, but all stock suspension components. No aftermarket anything for control arms, sway bar, etc...
b. Nitto 255/55ZR18 109W (http://www.nittotire.com/passenger-tires/motivo-all-season-ultra-high-performance-tire/) rear tires. They do not make the same size in their Summer and ulra performance tires (damn).

Q1. Keep the rear air shocks or change to something else?

Q2. What front and rear-end ride and suspension components should I add (sway bar bushings, end links, steering rack bellows, springs and shocks)?

Q3. What else?

[fastblackmerc]

With my new motor, blower, exhaust,...., what suspension changes should I make to help this amateur drive take advantage of the added power. Separate from learning to drive better, what do you guys recommend, please?

FYI:
a. I have a Metal Matrix drive shaft, but all stock suspension components. No aftermarket anything for control arms, anti-sway, etc...
b. Nitto 255/55ZR18 109W (http://www.nittotire.com/passenger-tires/motivo-all-season-ultra-high-performance-tire/) rear tires. They do not make the same size in their Summer and ulra performance tires (damn).

Q1. Keep the rear air shocks or change to something else?

Keep the air ride.

Q2. What front and rear-end ride and suspension components should I add (sway bar bushings, end links, steering rack bellows, springs and shocks)?

Metco upper and lower rear control arms, Addco front and rear sway bars, Energy Suspension greaseable sway bar bushings.

Q3. What else?

TCE front brake upgrade - if your going to go faster you'll need to stop quicker.
New torque convertor.



See my replies.

[Lowndex]

See my replies.

I can always count on your help. Thank you, sir.

- Sticking with air bags.

- I already have the torque converter (forgot to mention).

- I will order the rest today and send to BRG Racing.

[Lowndex]

See my replies.

For the Addco sway bar kits, front is 1.25" and read 1.0" (am I correct)?
http://www.summitracing.com/search/year/2004/make/mercury/model/marauder/brand/addco

[loud2004marquis]

For the Addco sway bar kits, front is 1.25" and read 1.0" (am I correct)?

You are correct.

[Bad_S55]

Addco bars, KYB shocks & struts, and you can get control arms from Heinous, Metco, or Sparta Performance.

[lifespeed]

Addco makes hollow sway bars for our cars also. They are larger diameter, although supposed to be the same rate. Also 5 lbs each lighter, not to mention will lighten your wallet a little more.

[fastblackmerc]

Here are some part numbers:

Sway Bars – Addco
Front – 2196 (1.25” diameter) - Solid
Rear – 650 (1” diameter) – Solid
Front – 2272 – Hollow
Rear – 2271 - Hollow

I'd recommend the solid bars.

Greaseable Sway Bar Bushings - Energy Suspensions
Front – 9.5165 or 9.5172
Rear – 9.5161 (will need modifications to work)

[RF Overlord]

Q1: You don't have air shocks, you have air springs.

Q2: End links and rack bellows will add nothing to ride quality or handling. Install the Addco sway bars and rear control arms from Sparta (supporting vendor) for the biggest bang-for-the-buck.

[lifespeed]

Q2: End links and rack bellows will add nothing to ride quality or handling. Install the Addco sway bars and rear control arms from Sparta (supporting vendor) for the biggest bang-for-the-buck.

Given that end links connect the sway bar to the spindle or chassis, they most certainly have an effect on handling. They wear out just like any other suspension part, and are not expensive.

Bellows age also. Given the tie rods must be disassembled to replace them it makes sense to replace these at the same time. Again, they aren't expensive.

Maintenance is something 10 year old cars often need.

[Lowndex]

Here are some part numbers:

Sway Bars – Addco
Front – 2196 (1.25” diameter) - Solid
Rear – 650 (1” diameter) – Solid
Front – 2272 – Hollow
Rear – 2271 - Hollow

I'd recommend the solid bars.

Greaseable Sway Bar Bushings - Energy Suspensions
Front – 9.5165 or 9.5172
Rear – 9.5161 (will need modifications to work)

Idiot proof - just what I need. :)

[Lowndex]

Given that end links connect the sway bar to the spindle or chassis, they most certainly have an effect on handling. They wear out just like any other suspension part, and are not expensive.

Bellows age also. Given the tie rods must be disassembled to replace them it makes sense to replace these at the same time. Again, they aren't expensive.

Maintenance is something 10 year old cars often need.

I forgot about the tie rods.

[fastblackmerc]

Given that end links connect the sway bar to the spindle or chassis, they most certainly have an effect on handling. They wear out just like any other suspension part, and are not expensive.

Bellows age also. Given the tie rods must be disassembled to replace them it makes sense to replace these at the same time. Again, they aren't expensive.

Maintenance is something 10 year old cars often need.


I forgot about the tie rods.

Check them. If they aren't damaged or there is no wear, no need to replace.

[lifespeed]

Check them. If they aren't damaged or there is no wear, no need to replace.

How could you have no wear on a 100K mile tie rod :confused:

[fastblackmerc]

How could you have no wear on a 100K mile tie rod :confused:

Your saying it's not possible?

[lifespeed]

Your saying it's not possible?

Never seen it happen, it is highly unlikely. A set of 4 tie rods cost as much as an alignment. Wear happens that you can feel as a lack of steering precision, but can't notice movement with the unaided eye tugging on the joint. Yet when the parts are replaced, the steering still feels much better.

Personally, I don't mess around with parts that are less than $30 each and are known wear items.

[Lowndex]

Q1: You don't have air shocks, you have air springs.

Q2: End links and rack bellows will add nothing to ride quality or handling. Install the Addco sway bars and rear control arms from Sparta (supporting vendor) for the biggest bang-for-the-buck.

Sparta is out of stock on the control arms and link set. :violin:

[Shermanator]

Do whatever you want, however you want. Me, 600 hp, 600lbs torgue, did 10.1/135 with absoute original suspension. Again, whatever makes you happy.

[Lowndex]

Given that end links connect the sway bar to the spindle or chassis, they most certainly have an effect on handling. They wear out just like any other suspension part, and are not expensive.

Bellows age also. Given the tie rods must be disassembled to replace them it makes sense to replace these at the same time. Again, they aren't expensive.

Maintenance is something 10 year old cars often need.

Q1.) What manufacturer should I buy for tie rods: Proforged, Moog, AutoExtra?

http://www.summitracing.com/search/year/2004/make/mercury/model/marauder/department/chassis-suspension/part-type/tie-rod-ends?N=4294948137%2B4294949814 %2B4294943786%2B4294951552%2B4 294947049&PageSize=100&SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Ascending

Q2.) Ball joints: Proforged, Mevotech, Moog?
http://www.summitracing.com/search/year/2004/make/mercury/model/marauder/department/chassis-suspension/part-type/ball-joints?N=4294948137%2B42949498 14%2B4294943786%2B4294951552%2 B4294947047&PageSize=100&SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Desc

[fastblackmerc]

Q1.) What manufacturer should I buy for tie rods: Proforged, Moog, AutoExtra?

http://www.summitracing.com/search/year/2004/make/mercury/model/marauder/department/chassis-suspension/part-type/tie-rod-ends?N=4294948137%2B4294949814 %2B4294943786%2B4294951552%2B4 294947049&PageSize=100&SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Ascending

Q2.) Ball joints: Proforged, Mevotech, Moog?
http://www.summitracing.com/search/year/2004/make/mercury/model/marauder/department/chassis-suspension/part-type/ball-joints?N=4294948137%2B42949498 14%2B4294943786%2B4294951552%2 B4294947047&PageSize=100&SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Desc
I'd go with Moog.

[lifespeed]

Q1.) What manufacturer should I buy for tie rods: Proforged, Moog, AutoExtra?

Q2.) Ball joints: Proforged, Mevotech, Moog?


I like the Ford parts as they are sealed (no greasing) and lasted reasonably well the first time around. I've got 30K miles on my rebuilt Ford front end and it still feels good. I have not heard good things about Mevotech, no personal experience with them. I don't think they have the reputation of companies like Moog or Dana.

When it comes to ball joints most just replace the entire control arm. For the upper arms this is a no-brainer given bushing and labor prices. For the lower arms, these are pretty expensive. But the lower CA bushings are tricky to replace. Just the price of keeping an old car nice I guess.

[fastblackmerc]

I like the Ford parts as they are sealed (no greasing) and lasted reasonably well the first time around. I've got 30K miles on my rebuilt Ford front end and it still feels good. I have not heard good things about Mevotech, no personal experience with them. I don't think they have the reputation of companies like Moog or Dana.

When it comes to ball joints most just replace the entire control arm. For the upper arms this is a no-brainer given bushing and labor prices. For the lower arms, these are pretty expensive. But the lower CA bushings are tricky to replace. Just the price of keeping an old car nice I guess.

I'd go with greaseable parts if you can. If you grease them everytime you change the oil they should last until you get rid of the car.

I'd also replace the entire assemblies.

[Lowndex]

Okay, I just dropped $2000 for all the parts: sway bar kits (front and rear), watts link, upper and lower control arms, tie rods, etc...

Now I just need some good brakes front and rear.

[Lowndex]

See my replies.


Sir, I know the next question shows zero knowledge on control arms. I appreciate your patience with the answer.

If I order and have installed the Metco upper and low control arms,
http://www.metcomotorsports.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MCA0016&cat=114

why would I need any of the Moog versions?
http://www.summitracing.com/search/year/2004/make/mercury/model/marauder/department/chassis-suspension/part-type/control-arms?N=4294948137%2B4294949814 %2B4294943786%2B4294951552%2B4 294947072&SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Desc

I ask because the Metco driver and passenger control arm parts look so much different than the Metco. Is an either / or choice? Or am I missing something?

[RubberCtyRauder]

Metco is rear control arms
Moog is front control arms "AKA" A-arms

[Lowndex]

Metco is rear control arms
Moog is front control arms "AKA" A-arms

Thank you.

Qestion:
Why do the Moog R-Series cost so much more than the Problem Solver units?
http://www.summitracing.com/search/year/2004/make/mercury/model/marauder/department/chassis-suspension/part-type/control-arms?N=4294948137%2B4294949814 %2B4294943786%2B4294951552%2B4 294947072%2B400381&SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Desc

Odd:
I noticed the front lower, passenger Moog part is not offered.

[RubberCtyRauder]

I don't know why. My car has 46,000 miles so never had a need to do suspension rebuilding. My other marauder when I sold it had 76000 miles and all was original suspension

[Lowndex]

I don't know why. My car has 46,000 miles so never had a need to do suspension rebuilding. My other marauder when I sold it had 76000 miles and all was original suspension

I am at 98,000 and have two tie rod bushings cracked/worn and slop in the driver side. So, I replaced the parts.

I cannot tell why the cost and design is more / different between the two styles.

[Lowndex]

Q1. Why do the Moog R-Series cost so much more than the Problem Solver units?
http://www.summitracing.com/search/y...SortOrder=Desc

Q2. I noticed the front lower, passenger Moog part is not offered. Does Moog offer such a part?

Front lower, driver side (2)
Front upper, driver side (2)
Front upper, passenger side (2)
Front lower, passenger side (0)


I watched this video and now understand - http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/Moog-Front-Control-Arms.asp

CK and K are the premium, serviceable parts with lifetime warranty and precision fit. RK are lower cost materials, price and not serviceable.