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View Full Version : A/C compressor Ford or aftermarket



lifespeed
04-06-2015, 01:57 PM
I've got a noisy accessory. Or at least I think that is the source of the problem, will be looking into it with a trusted shop this afternoon.

I am suspicious of the AC compressor clutch bearings. I think they are worn and have been making noise as the engine winds up. All other accessories are 1 - 2 years old, although I realize this does not guarantee they are functioning properly. The condenser and receiver/drier were just replaced one year ago.

If it does come down to replacing the compressor, I would likely choose a Ford unit at $435 from Tasca parts. I know reman compressors from the local yokels are cheaper, but I have not had good experiences with longevity when buying "remanufactured" accessories.

Anybody have experiences with the A/C clutch, compressor, or rattling noise as the engine RPM increases?

MOTOWN
04-06-2015, 02:00 PM
Why replace the entire A/C compressor if its only the clutch thats bad?

lifespeed
04-06-2015, 02:04 PM
Because it is old, and makes some funny "pumping" noises it did not used to make when the A/C is turned on. Kind of like you can hear the compressor pistons moving. Also doesn't cool quite as well as it did when it was new.

Pretty sure none of this stuff lasts forever, car has 130K miles. Sometimes it makes sense to replace the whole assembly when you're paying shop labor and it is a part that wears.

babbage
04-06-2015, 05:07 PM
I replaced my whole A/C compressor unit, dryer etc.

The A/C clutch may just need a few shims to work correctly

lifespeed
04-06-2015, 05:21 PM
I replaced my whole A/C compressor unit, dryer etc.

The A/C clutch may just need a few shims to work correctly

Did it make a rattling sound?

babbage
04-06-2015, 05:25 PM
Yes the clutch/compressor was making an odd noise.

JohnE
04-07-2015, 07:11 AM
Try removing the shim on the clutch first. If it's still bad, replace a/c unit, orifice tube and dryer. I'd go aftermarket now that the platform is out of production. Just don't go with cheap aftermarket, so that it lasts.

fastblackmerc
04-07-2015, 07:29 AM
Try removing the shim on the clutch first. If it's still bad, replace a/c unit, orifice tube and dryer. I'd go aftermarket now that the platform is out of production. Just don't go with cheap aftermarket, so that it lasts.

There may not be a shim or there maybe more than one.

lifespeed
04-07-2015, 08:40 AM
Try removing the shim on the clutch first. If it's still bad, replace a/c unit, orifice tube and dryer. I'd go aftermarket now that the platform is out of production. Just don't go with cheap aftermarket, so that it lasts.

I looked at the clutch with belt tension still on it. As I rotated the pulley (slipped the belt a bit) I watched the gap in the clutch grow and shrink as the pulley went through it's rotation. I got the impression the clutch has some play in it. Definitely suspect. I suppose at some point you just have to take your best guess and throw parts and money at it. Babbage's experiences seem to point to this being a possible point of failure.

As far as Ford vs aftermarket and the fact the panther is out of production, why is this important? Would not a replacement compressor be very likely supplied by the same vendor who supplied Ford during production?

The condenser and drier (orifice tube?) bolted on the frame were replaced one year ago. Not sure it is necessary to replace again, but I guess it is a cheap enough part.

fastblackmerc
04-07-2015, 09:10 AM
I looked at the clutch with belt tension still on it. As I rotated the pulley (slipped the belt a bit) I watched the gap in the clutch grow and shrink as the pulley went through it's rotation. I got the impression the clutch has some play in it. Definitely suspect. I suppose at some point you just have to take your best guess and throw parts and money at it. Babbage's experiences seem to point to this being a possible point of failure.

As far as Ford vs aftermarket and the fact the panther is out of production, why is this important? Would not a replacement compressor be very likely supplied by the same vendor who supplied Ford during production?

The condenser and drier (orifice tube?) bolted on the frame were replaced one year ago. Not sure it is necessary to replace again, but I guess it is a cheap enough part.

Condenser (mounted in front of the radiator) is around $100.00

Compressor runs from $150.00 to over $350.00

Receiver dry / accumulator less than $70.00

Orifice tube is less than $5.00

A few of things.........

1 - Check the recommendations and warranty on the compressor, some will only honor the warranty IF the condenser, receiver dry (accumulator), orifice tube are replaced and the system is flushed.

2 - Get a o-ring / seal kit and replace all the seals.

3 - Should also get some R134 compatible oil for use on the seals and in the compressor.

JohnE
04-07-2015, 09:18 AM
Since the car isn't in production anymore, there is no longer a trickle of parts from making the cars being fed into the parts counters. Now its a matter of the cheapest supplier. The last Ford alternator I bought wound up being a rebuilt unit, no new ones anymore.

lifespeed
04-07-2015, 09:18 AM
Condenser (mounted in front of the radiator) is around $100.00

Compressor runs from $150.00 to over $350.00

Receiver dry / accumulator less than $70.00

Orifice tube is less than $5.00

A few of things.........

1 - Check the recommendations and warranty on the compressor, some will only honor the warranty IF the condenser, receiver dry (accumulator), orifice tube are replaced and the system is flushed.

2 - Get a o-ring / seal kit and replace all the seals.

3 - Should also get some R134 compatible oil for use on the seals and in the compressor.

All these parts have been replaced within the past year, except for the compressor. And you are right about the warranty requiring the rest of the parts be replaced, it is the correct thing to do.

lifespeed
04-09-2015, 11:21 AM
After further review, I am starting to suspect timing chain tensioners and guides. I also noticed after a fresh oil change of 0W-30 Mobile 1 oil the problem quieted up for a day or two.

I will replace the spark plugs (they are due anyway) and observe the insulators for any indication of valve guide problems (oil). If I don't see any issues I will hire the local mustang shop to do this job.

Lowndex
04-09-2015, 01:47 PM
Because it is old, and makes some funny "pumping" noises it did not used to make when the A/C is turned on. Kind of like you can hear the compressor pistons moving. Also doesn't cool quite as well as it did when it was new.

Pretty sure none of this stuff lasts forever, car has 130K miles. Sometimes it makes sense to replace the whole assembly when you're paying shop labor and it is a part that wears.

Agreed - if paying shop labor, get it all done while you are working the area; if you are doing the work, your call.

lifespeed
04-13-2015, 01:05 PM
The spark plugs were clean after 75K miles. No indication of any valve guide oil control problems.

lifespeed
04-28-2015, 10:33 AM
So the crap O'Reilly alternator finally turned on the battery light. I was desperate and in Yellowstone when the alternator failed over last July 4th. I could not get a Ford replacement so O'Reilly it was.

I put new bearings in the original Ford alternator I still had on the shelf, as well as a new German clutched pulley. The rattling noise at 3K to 5K RPM is all but gone now.

Alternators can make a racket, apparently. And O'Reilly sells garbage, no surprise there.

lifespeed
06-02-2015, 08:46 PM
It was the infamous plastic hydraulic tensioner, see this thread (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1451159#post1 451159).