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License2Bill
04-24-2015, 02:35 PM
Went to start the car after sitting for less than a day, it won't crank, no clicks like dead battery or anything. Can hear the fuel pump turning on.

So far I've pulled the terminals, cleaned off the corrosion and reconnected then securely. I've tapped on the starter to no avail. Battery is on a charger. I guess next step is to check the leads on the starter for corrosion. I have tried putting the car in neutral and starting it that way to eliminate the neutral safety switch. No luck.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance

Mr. Man
04-24-2015, 02:37 PM
Did you try jumping it from another car?

kmastl
04-24-2015, 02:37 PM
PATS?

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License2Bill
04-24-2015, 02:45 PM
Yes I've tried jumping from another car. Forgot to mention that. The last time this happened, jumping worked and all was good in marauder land. Now nothing happens when hooked up to another car. All the lights and chimes still work though. I checked for frayed wires at the back of the cam cover and they all appear in tact

License2Bill
04-24-2015, 02:48 PM
Also the battery has a sticker of May 2010. Not motorcraft brand. Possibly time for new one?

Zack
04-24-2015, 02:59 PM
Jump the S terminal on the starter solenoid to the positive post. That will tell you if the starter is good or not

Badass_forever
04-24-2015, 02:59 PM
possible relay or starter solenoid. if everything is working as it should its the only thing it could be. does your battery gauge spike down when you turn the key all the way to start?

if it does then its a battery issue, if it doesn't then the battery is fine.

License2Bill
04-24-2015, 03:16 PM
Jump the S terminal on the starter solenoid to the positive post. That will tell you if the starter is good or not
What's the best way to go about doing this? Car is on jack stands. Pull the cap and a use a heavy gauge wire?

Badass_forever
04-24-2015, 03:25 PM
What's the best way to go about doing this? Car is on jack stands. Pull the cap and a use a heavy gauge wire?

no, your only going to touch it for a split second, any wire will work, starter is on the passenger side. the start will just pop for a second. if it does then you have a signal issue

License2Bill
04-24-2015, 03:28 PM
no, your only going to touch it for a split second, any wire will work, starter is on the passenger side, just jack the car up at the jack point behind the passenger front wheel.

Just a stand for safety.
I know where it is. I had to pull it out to install the headers. There is a plastic cap over the terminals. I mentioned heavy gauge wire so it doesn't burn through like fuseable link

Badass_forever
04-24-2015, 03:32 PM
I know where it is. I had to pull it out to install the headers. There is a plastic cap over the terminals. I mentioned heavy gauge wire so it doesn't burn through like fuseable link

if i remember correctly, there should be two wires that go to the starter, a large power wire and a small signal wire, the large power wire should always have power from the battery, juump that wire to the small wire, that will tigger the starter to turn on. its not even 1amp its nothing to worry about. if that doesn't work, you have a bad starter.

Curless
04-24-2015, 04:44 PM
Umm, why don't you just use a test light on the little (signal) wire going to the starter? Have someone crank the car while you are holding your test light to the little terminal and see if it lights up...if it does, your starter is bad...if it does not its between the ignition switch and the starter.

chief455
04-24-2015, 05:07 PM
And you put a volt meter on the + and - battery terminals, see ~13v, have someone turn the can key to 'start', watch for voltage drop. If no volt drop, starter is not trying.

Badass_forever
04-24-2015, 06:02 PM
Umm, why don't you just use a test light on the little (signal) wire going to the starter? Have someone crank the car while you are holding your test light to the little terminal and see if it lights up...if it does, your starter is bad...if it does not its between the ignition switch and the starter.

Even tho that will work, you should never use a test light when testing for signals. A test light will light up with as little as 3 volts.

License2Bill
04-25-2015, 07:33 AM
When I had the starter out for the header install, I replaced the solenoid with a part from Advance Auto. I had a lot of people tell me to get a Ford unit. I'm starting to lean towards the cheapo p.o.s. crapping out at this point. Thoughts?

Going out to try jumping at the starter in a few minutes

justbob
04-25-2015, 09:35 AM
When I had the starter out for the header install, I replaced the solenoid with a part from Advance Auto. I had a lot of people tell me to get a Ford unit. I'm starting to lean towards the cheapo p.o.s. crapping out at this point. Thoughts?

Going out to try jumping at the starter in a few minutes


Thoughts are guesses until you test. [emoji6]


Builder Of Badassery

Curless
04-26-2015, 08:01 AM
Even tho that will work, you should never use a test light when testing for signals. A test light will light up with as little as 3 volts.


Really? Hmm, I guess knowing weather you are or are not getting any current would not be the question...Yes, I understand that you will not know what the actual voltage is by using a test light. The rule is K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid) if you are getting no juice then you have a signal issue, the chances of having a voltage drop on the signal side are slim to none... also, not that many people have a DVOM or know how to properly use one.

442freak
04-26-2015, 09:55 AM
So was it the starter? Takes like 2 seconds to test... These threads always keeping a brother in suspense... geez!

License2Bill
04-26-2015, 04:48 PM
It started raining and I'm not gonna mess around with that nonsense while wet. When it dries out, I'll test and post results.

MM in MN
04-27-2015, 09:04 AM
Exactly what happened to mine last fall. Was starting perfectly, shut it off, came back 1/2 hour later...nothing, no how, no way. Went through all the tests, was the starter (original, 100K miles), just quit, no warning, no nothing. Replaced the starter and all is well.

License2Bill
04-27-2015, 05:41 PM
Exactly what happened to mine last fall. Was starting perfectly, shut it off, came back 1/2 hour later...nothing, no how, no way. Went through all the tests, was the starter (original, 100K miles), just quit, no warning, no nothing. Replaced the starter and all is well.
I'll be pulling my battery and starter in the morning, taking them to get bench tested since running the jumper around the starter solenoid didn't do anything.

License2Bill
04-28-2015, 12:07 PM
Bench test reveals that battery is unstable. New one going in momentarily. Hopefully that solves the issue. Will update with results

License2Bill
04-28-2015, 01:38 PM
It's alive. Battery was the problem the whole time.

ctrlraven
04-28-2015, 01:57 PM
Off-brand batteries usually last 3 years, brand name can last 3-5 years depending on use.

Badass_forever
04-28-2015, 03:06 PM
It's alive. Battery was the problem the whole time.

glad to hear its fixed, batteries can go bad just from hitting a pot hole, the major problem then batteries break there plates, its very hard to tell thats the problem