dash cluster lights went out ?

[Chayton]

After over half a year my car is back and running! But I do need help. Last night I was trying to get my subwoofer put back in. After pulling my aftermarket deck out to fiddle with the sub remote wire I noticed when I turned the headlights on I heard a buzzing interference sound faintly through the speakers. Later while driving, I lost lighting to my dash cluster back lighting, tail lights, and cornering lights. The interior lock switches also no light. From the research I could do I found a post saying something how its likely to happen with a after market deck, one of the loose wires touches metal and shorts out. I checked some fuses in reference to owners manual, didnt see anything but may have to check again as it was late at night. The dome lights work and fade on when the doors are opened, so I dont think its an LCMissue? Due to that buzzing noise i heard i feel its should be related to that... If someone could help me resolve this asap I would be very grateful.

[Chayton]

Anyone? Please help im about to lose my mind I checked all the related fuses theyre good. The fog lights cornering lights tail lights and instrument cluster back lighting are out. The green light for the fog lights doesnt come on when I pull the switch, if that helps. Am I wasting my time and this is a LCM issue? I was really hoping to take the marauder out tonight but its not worth getting ticketed worse rear ended.

[chief455]

Wow - hard to believe those items would be connected by fuse or curcuit. I can't help you, hopefully the experienced will read this soon...

[justbob]

Your headlight switch harness is fully clicked in correct? Everything you mentioned runs thru it.


Builder Of Badassery

[Chayton]

wow I feel realllly dumb now. Upon further inspection, The way the fuse blew made like a odd mark on the plastic, hard to see it was blown. Or im just a moron :lol: my apologies for the waste of bandwidth...

[chief455]

What fuse? glad you're bright again, justbob had your back too :)

[Chayton]

What fuse? glad you're bright again, justbob had your back too :)

I think it was#21. Man I just panicked I guess. Just got the car back and the last thing I want to do is mess it up! I swear I checked them at least three times.... didnt realize it till my old man came out and said look here knuckle head its blown :lol: gosh it feels good to be back. Ill post a update thread soon when I get the chance to snap some pics :)

[Badass_forever]

if that fuse blows again you might have a bad ground. anytime you head noise threw your speaks its a ground issue.

[Chayton]

if that fuse blows again you might have a bad ground. anytime you head noise threw your speaks its a ground issue.

The fuse has blown about 3 times now lol. it sounds like another buzzing electrical sound is coming from the headlight switch....loose connection for it im guessing!?

[justbob]

Post 4 [emoji6]


Builder Of Badassery

[chief455]

Post 4 [emoji6]


Builder Of Badassery

I think this makes #5 recent threads that justbob posts the correct solution to a posted unknown problem on his first answer :eek:
Paying attention.

[justbob]

I think this makes #5 recent threads that justbob posts the correct solution to a posted unknown problem on his first answer :eek:

Paying attention.


Lol he hasn't said if that was it.

Between mine (witch should be enough trial and error) and the countless side work I USED to do on these it starts to become the norm. I rarely have to diagnose.

As for his particular problem, I did this on mine when I replaced all the sound years ago and that's exactly what happened to me. Loud buzzing equalled not fully seated harness.


Builder Of Badassery

[Chayton]

Lol he hasn't said if that was it.

Between mine (witch should be enough trial and error) and the countless side work I USED to do on these it starts to become the norm. I rarely have to diagnose.

As for his particular problem, I did this on mine when I replaced all the sound years ago and that's exactly what happened to me. Loud buzzing equalled not fully seated harness.


Builder Of Badassery

popped the panel off last night. connector was halfway off aka LOOSE! You sir are gifted :bows: thanks! :) :o

[justbob]

[emoji106]


Builder Of Badassery

[Chayton]

[emoji106]


Builder Of Badassery

Well now im really confused. Fuse blew again. Disconnected the power wire and ground going to my amp in case that was the issue and put a new fuse in. blew shortly after that...im starting to think this may be a wiring harness issue. Great. Any thoughts?

[Mebot]

I think your car hates you...

Can't stop the signal...

[fastblackmerc]

Always go back and check the last work that was done.

[justbob]

What wire did you use for the radio lighting?


Builder Of Badassery

[justbob]

Pm sent


Builder Of Badassery

[Chayton]

What wire did you use for the radio lighting?


Builder Of Badassery

It cant be audio related. I drove with everything disconnected even with the deck out and it still blew. The buzzing noise continues to come from somewhere in the dash, the fuse blows only when driving, and at random. Something is rubbing somewhere Im guessing...but I have no idea where to look. It still sounds like it could be coming from the switch. Is it possible that its just bad and needs to be replaced?

[fastblackmerc]

It cant be audio related. I drove with everything disconnected even with the deck out and it still blew. The buzzing noise continues to come from somewhere in the dash, the fuse blows only when driving, and at random. Something is rubbing somewhere Im guessing...but I have no idea where to look. It still sounds like it could be coming from the switch. Is it possible that its just bad and needs to be replaced?

I highly doubt it's the headlight switch.

Check the harness behind the drivers side cam cover.

Check the harness at the left front near the headlight and foglight.

[Chayton]

The wire that grounds the motor to the chassis is missing/not connected/not present. Could this cause the short? Its supposed to be hooked up regardless so im gonna go buy one but it sure would be nice if that was the issue. Today's my day off so Im gonna check the harnesses and stuff...will keep yall updated

[fastblackmerc]

The wire that grounds the motor to the chassis is missing/not connected/not present. Could this cause the short? Its supposed to be hooked up regardless so im gonna go buy one but it sure would be nice if that was the issue. Today's my day off so Im gonna check the harnesses and stuff...will keep yall updated

Missing ground won't cause a short. Short is caused by direct power to ground connection.

[Chayton]

Missing ground won't cause a short. Short is caused by direct power to ground connection.

Ok. I also realized the buzzing noise is not electrical. my parking brake shoes are doing that infamous thing when they fall apart and rattle around in the drum, the noise is resonating through my parking brake pedal. Buzzing noise while moving, engage park brake while driving buzzing goes away. still not sure about the fuse. As far as I can see the wiring harnesses are ok. Hard to see behind the cam cover....a while back I put an LED for my license plate light, I noticed the rubber connector for it is burnt/melted a little.

[Chayton]

Still no luck...fuse blows in under a minute..could this be LCM related? Fuse# 21

[whitey]

Doubtful that its lcm related. The lcm is a pcb and for something to ground out inside would mean metal shavings or such would be crossing the 'wires' inside the box. The lcm shouldnt blow fuses, it would blow a relay inside and in turn just stop working. But hey...anything is possible. Take it out, open it up, and see if you notice anything out of the norm.

twix is the only candy with the cookie crunch.

[fastblackmerc]

Still no luck...fuse blows in under a minute..could this be LCM related? Fuse# 21

Anything is possible but I highly doubt it.

I'd:

Remove all the bulbs affected

Replace the bulbs one at a time until the fuse blows

Trace the circuit to see where it is rubbing

You'll go thru a bunch of fuses but you'll find the circuit that is causing the problem.

[fastblackmerc]

Has any work been done recently?

Fuse #21:

LCM-for parking lamps, interior illumination & Autolamp/Sunload sensor.

1. Are the headlights set to auto? If they are set them for manual operation and test.

2. Remove the drivers side visor. Check the wire to see if it's pinched and test.

3. Remove the center console, the bulbs from the footwells and the rear reading lights and test.

4. Remove the parking light bulbs front and rear and test.

You'll need a few 20A fuses.

[Chayton]

Has any work been done recently?

Fuse #21:

LCM-for parking lamps, interior illumination & Autolamp/Sunload sensor.

1. Are the headlights set to auto? If they are set them for manual operation and test.

2. Remove the drivers side visor. Check the wire to see if it's pinched and test.

3. Remove the center console, the bulbs from the footwells and the rear reading lights and test.

4. Remove the parking light bulbs front and rear and test.

You'll need a few 20A fuses.

ok will do. The console was taken apart in prep for 5 speed swap that never happened. Upon further testing it seems the fuse likes to blow during a hard left at speed (around 15-20ish MPH)

[Chayton]

Where is the suhnload sensor?

[fastblackmerc]

Where is the suhnload sensor?

It's the flashing light in the dash. If you turn the headlight switch off (no auto-lamps) you'll take the Sunload senor out of the equation.

[EMAS]

Removing bulbs will not help you in the diagnosis unless the bulb itself has an internal short which is something I've never seen or heard of.

The fact that you had the console out means that is the first place you should look.

This circuit is a royal pain to test because after the LCM it literally goes all over the car, the dash lights, the gauges, the interior lights the lights in the door switches ect.

You really need the factory wiring diagram so you can locate the different connectors where the wires branch off to the different areas so you can isolate one section of the circuit at a time.

[Chayton]

Removing bulbs will not help you in the diagnosis unless the bulb itself has an internal short which is something I've never seen or heard of.

The fact that you had the console out means that is the first place you should look.

This circuit is a royal pain to test because after the LCM it literally goes all over the car, the dash lights, the gauges, the interior lights the lights in the door switches ect.

You really need the factory wiring diagram so you can locate the different connectors where the wires branch off to the different areas so you can isolate one section of the circuit at a time.


FML. Yeah I figured as much.. fun stuff

[Chayton]

checked most bulbs and added dielectric grease. Fuse still blows over and over. now what I narrowed it down to was turning left, but it seems theres more to it. it seems the car has to be under a load or at certain rpm to blow. I can approach a left turn at 20 mph and rip the steering wheel around like a mad man, as long as my foot is off the gas the fuse wont Blow. Come into the same turn at 1/4 throttle and gently flick the steering left(bringing the top to about the 10 o clock position) boom. Out. I was also able to make it blow by WOT launching in a straight line. Going to get really get deep into the wiring tomorrow, but figured id post this up and see if this information could help narrow it down anymore....extremely frustrating as im pretty broke after all ive spent on the car, not trying to take it back if I could just fix it myself. Thanks for the insight guys.

[fastblackmerc]

I highly doubt it's the headlight switch.

Check the harness behind the drivers side cam cover.

Check the harness at the left front near the headlight and foglight.

As I said in post #21 (above), check the harness at the left front near the fog and head lights.

[Chayton]

As I said in post #21 (above), check the harness at the left front near the fog and head lights.

Took your advice and went at it again. Previously I had checked this harness looking down into the engine bay, everything looked good(albeit it is a tight space) after doing more research I found a post showing in detail where the wiring harness rubs at the end of the frame rail. got underneath the car and low and behold I saw exposed wire. Taped it up real good and tada! No more blown fuses. Now I can sleep at night and dont have to buy any more fuses!! :p

[fastblackmerc]

Took your advice and went at it again. Previously I had checked this harness looking down into the engine bay, everything looked good(albeit it is a tight space) after doing more research I found a post showing in detail where the wiring harness rubs at the end of the frame rail. got underneath the car and low and behold I saw exposed wire. Taped it up real good and tada! No more blown fuses. Now I can sleep at night and dont have to buy any more fuses!! :p

And there you have it folks!

Good job!

[whitey]

Awesome man! Electrical issues can drive you nuts, glad it was an easy fix.

twix is the only candy with the cookie crunch.