Trilogy Vacuum hoses & other recommendations?

[Cougar_Marauder]

I have a vacuum leak coming from somewhere at the back of the engine. I plan to take the Trilogy and upper/lower intakes off sometime soon and re-do all the hoses back there. I was reading this thread (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71238) and I am wondering if plugging the hole at the bottom of the lower intake is now considered the proper way to go? It makes sense but it goes against the original Trilogy instructions...

Also in post #8 Dennis says he " removed the single boost sensitive port located directly at the back of the supercharger" and " added a new fitting with twin ports so one port can go to the fuel rail pressure sensor, and the other port can go to your boost gauge." Is this recommended? If so I'm not totally sure what he is talking about as the pictures are gone.

I also plan to relocate the IAT sensor so I can better monitor temps after the intercooler.

Any other suggestions while I'm in there?

[justbob]

Most say the hole should be plugged off. I was lazy and didn't feel like it and after 45,000 miles the intake only had trace amounts of oiling. And no, I never ran a catch can. Not sure exactly what all the hype is about.

Definitely add a tee to the only boost sensitive vacuum hole. I used a brass 90, then a brass tee, followed by brass barbed fitting for the FRPS, and a brass compression adapter for the boost gauge. Clean, simple.

IAT2 is a must, you can simply drill the back of the lower intake and tap it 3/8" ips.




Builder Of Badassery

[Cougar_Marauder]

Thanks Bob.

OK, so I will plug the bottom; and as far as the boost sensitive vacuum, are you running that from the rear drivers side corner of the upper intake (where the compression fitting for the boost gauge is placed in the original Trilogy guide)?

For the IAT2 I was reading Zack's thread (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=32655&highlight=scared), is 3/8" ips the same as 3/8-18 NPT Tap (I'm not real sharp on my pipe thread sizing but the 3/8" must be ID because as Zack shows the drill bit is larger than 3/8") I don't want to mess that up....

[Sully008]

as far as the boost sensitive vacuum, are you running that from the rear drivers side corner of the upper intake (where the compression fitting for the boost gauge is placed in the original Trilogy guide)?


That is what I did. Can't remember where I saw the pictures, but I'm pretty sure it was justbob's, lol. The plastic hose out from the intake goes into the bottom of the T, one side goes to the boost gauge, the other to the FRPS.

[justbob]

Thanks Bob.

OK, so I will plug the bottom; and as far as the boost sensitive vacuum, are you running that from the rear drivers side corner of the upper intake (where the compression fitting for the boost gauge is placed in the original Trilogy guide)?

For the IAT2 I was reading Zack's thread (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=32655&highlight=scared), is 3/8" ips the same as 3/8-18 NPT Tap (I'm not real sharp on my pipe thread sizing but the 3/8" must be ID because as Zack shows the drill bit is larger than 3/8") I don't want to mess that up....


My Trilogy is long gone LOL. Yeah, remove that compression fitting and replace it with a brass 90* I think it's 1/4" NPT (IPS Iron Pipe Size, same thing. Sorry, I'm a plumber..) then a nipple to a tee fitting. The branch of the tee looks towards the passenger side to pick up the FRPS and is just a short nipple and a 1/4" female NPT X 1/4" barbed fitting. Out the back of the tee heading towards the firewall use a 1/4" male NPT X 1/8" compression for the gauge.

Confirm sizes please, it's been awhile.

Maybe Guspech Joe can snap you a pic of his Eaton swap. Same fittings.

Use a 37/64" or more common 9/16" drill bit for the 3/8" NPT tap. My IAT2 was drilled into the top of the blower plate rear passenger side from Trilogy (swap out). That would require a bit of machining to do. Much easier to do the flat part of the lower intake's back side.


Builder Of Badassery

[Blackened300a]

You can remove the cowl and get a clear look at the vacuum hoses on the back of the blower. Save you a lot of time and effort.

[Cougar_Marauder]

My IAT2 was drilled into the top of the blower plate rear passenger side from Trilogy (swap out). That would require a bit of machining to do. Much easier to do the flat part of the lower intake's back side.

This is where it is now, I was under the impression that moving it down to the lower intake gave a more accurate reading since it is directly after the intercooler. As it reads now the temps are the same as they were before the Killer Chiller was installed :down:



You can remove the cowl and get a clear look at the vacuum hoses on the back of the blower. Save you a lot of time and effort.


I agree, but I want to re-do the entire assembly because the speed shop I had my car at could be more accurately described as a butcher shop. The vacuum lines are clearly half-assed (and leaking) and I will feel much better having looked over everything and doing it myself.

[justbob]

I didn't realize you already have the IAT2. You won't notice much of a change in temp readings by moving it. As for the killer chiller, did you remove the factory orifice tube? If not, there's your issue.


Builder Of Badassery

[Cougar_Marauder]

The KC was installed by the butcher shop... so it's hard telling if it's done right. I suppose I would have to discharge the a/c to check anything...

[justbob]

Yup..


Builder Of Badassery

[Cougar_Marauder]

I know its been a while but I'm finally getting this together and have another question. When running the new boost sensitive line to the FRPS can I run it just the same as it was, with the other vacuum lines going to the EGR and bypass valve all together? Or do I need to plug the old/original FRPS line and run one deticated to it?

[justbob]

Plug old/run new.


Builder Of Badassery