View Full Version : ADTR Supercharger
Ambitious_GinG
06-09-2015, 08:19 AM
So after looking around im considering doing the eaton or the kit ADTR provides.
Which do you feel would be a better route to go? at the moment i have about 4k so if i went with the ADTR id have to save but is it worth saving? or just go with the eaton. Ive heard if i do the eaton i could always upgrade to a whipple when ready but how much would that change cost after? Looking for some guidance thanks
RF Overlord
06-09-2015, 09:14 AM
Eaton swap requires hunting down parts and getting some used instead of new (so potential for issues), but costs the least.
Buying a ready-made kit is easier and quicker, plus ADTR is a respected vendor in the Panther community, so you know the kit is good.
In the end, it's a choice only you can make.
Logizyme
06-09-2015, 10:43 AM
Also research the functional differences between a positive displacement supercharger and a centrifugal supercharger, as they function considerably different, both having distinct advantages and disadvantages.
Sully008
06-09-2015, 11:23 AM
I've posted this before, but it was years ago and the game has changed a bit. I've edited it to reflect today's choices:
You have several options to go with in terms of forced induction. Each will give you more power than your stock engine handle (in no particular order):
Eaton swap (Roots/Twin Screw)
Reinhardt (Vortech)
ADTR (Vortech)
turbo (custom build)
These are the top choices for your Marauder.
As Logizyme mentioned, you'll also need to read up on the differences between the power adders (i.e. roots vs centrifugal vs turbo) and how they build power.
Questions you need to ask yourself:
How much are you willing to spend?
How much time are you willing to wait?
Do you want a kit that comes with everything needed to do the install or do you like to search for the parts needed?
Do you want a warranty?
Do you have the skills to go DIY?
Can you find a suitable tuner if you go DIY?
Are you also planning on upgrading other things on the car? Transmission, rear end, brakes, forged internals, etc.? The more power you make, the more likely something will break further down the line.
There are those out there that want the "turn key" solution. I was one of them. While I am mechanically inclined and like to do things my way, I liked the fact that everything was R&D'd for me. Conversely, there are those out there that enjoy hunting for parts, thinking things out, taking there time and doing things on a low budget. That's cool too! Honestly if the the Eaton swap had become a reality before I bought my Trilogy, I might've gone that route.
You need to do your "due diligence" and figure out what you want out of your car. Read up on what each choice's pros/cons are. I spent hours and hours reading past S/C threads (a lot of them heated) before I decided on the Trilogy. The search function is your friend. Also read the archived forums of Trilogy, FIT and Reinhart Automotive. There is still alot of valuable information in there if you dig deep enough.
Bottom line is all choices are good, it won't matter which one you go with as long as it meets YOUR criteria. Anytime a Marauder gets blown, boosted, whatever, it's a good thing!:beer:
EDIT: I just noticed that ADTR's kit doesn't include a tune, not sure if Reinhardt's does. So in most cases you would have to find a tuner. Luckily, we have Mo on board to take care of that, but tuning now becomes an added cost as well.
Mr. Man
06-09-2015, 11:53 AM
How about getting ADTR as a sponsor here. Lot's of stuff we might buy.
Ambitious_GinG
06-09-2015, 12:00 PM
Thanks for all the help guys just a young head trying to figure things out and see whats best for mine. Ill continue looking through each and see which one suits me the best. dont know too much for me to personally do a DIY but my mechanic told me look into a twin screw.. reason being looking for a eaton. But any additional information will help ill continue my search
Sully008
06-09-2015, 01:00 PM
If not going DIY, add in costs for a shop or mechanic to do it, unless your real good friends with them. Labor rates are anywhere from $80-100/hr. By doing it yourself though, you gain a whole ton of experience and knowledge. When I installed my Trilogy it took me a long weekend to do.
Another thing to consider is down time. Do you have another car to drive while it's being worked on?
Good luck with your research!
Ambitious_GinG
06-09-2015, 01:11 PM
yea i know i was considering working on it with my dad and grandpa which have a ton of experience not specifically with a supercharger though. but i dont have a spare car so if i was to do the eaton swap id want to do it while im on break before college/ i know it isnt a quick 123 process
RubberCtyRauder
06-09-2015, 01:50 PM
As mentioned, before even buying a single part, ask where you want to go with it, how far in engine upgrades, trans, rear, suspensions etc.. A twin screw will certainly require forged internal pistons, rods, crank, and a cobra or terminator block fro instance. Do you wanna spend $5-6 for a blower while keeping the stock engine intern als and stating in the 400-450 rwhp range or do you want to spend $20,000+ for a new top to bottom engine and trans, 31 spline upgrade etc....
lji372
06-09-2015, 02:29 PM
Roots style (eaton) if it's for you daily or weekend cruiser.
Torque curve is awesome
I have both supercharger styles so I do speak from experience.
Just my 2 cents
Good luck with your search and your project.
Ambitious_GinG
06-09-2015, 03:25 PM
yea its my daily driver so that seems like a good idea and yea i mean im not looking to spend 20k frankly because i dont have 20k but i understand what you mean
Ambitious_GinG
06-09-2015, 03:26 PM
at the time i dont really want to redo any internals unless needed
RubberCtyRauder
06-09-2015, 03:42 PM
at the time i dont really want to redo any internals unless needed
Then the ADTR stage 1 vortech kit or gathering an eaton swap would be the logical choice. Both can provide power and fun. It'll just be based on budget and time frame. ADTR says. 6 weeks to get. You can gather eaton swap stuff in 2 weeks or take months if want to search for deals
lji372
06-09-2015, 03:55 PM
Then the ADTR stage 1 vortech kit or gathering an eaton swap would be the logical choice. Both can provide power and fun. It'll just be based on budget and time frame. ADTR says. 6 weeks to get. You can gather eaton swap stuff in 2 weeks or take months if want to search for deals
You've had both. What do you recommend, roots or centrifugal?
WPG_Merc
06-09-2015, 04:26 PM
Nice write up Mike :2thumbs:
I would like to plan a S/C some day also. :burnout:
For this year I'll get the cam degreeing done & ZEX Dyno at Mo's.
justbob
06-09-2015, 04:43 PM
You've had both. What do you recommend, roots or centrifugal?
Me too and I honestly couldn't say? You can achieve higher numbers with a centri on a stock block because it doesn't pour on the boost all at once, less parts, lower IAT's, and easier install.
With the roots you have instant boost for the green lights and normally much less maintenance over time.
Builder Of Badassery
Ambitious_GinG
06-09-2015, 05:04 PM
Then the ADTR stage 1 vortech kit or gathering an eaton swap would be the logical choice. Both can provide power and fun. It'll just be based on budget and time frame. ADTR says. 6 weeks to get. You can gather eaton swap stuff in 2 weeks or take months if want to search for deals
if i was to gather it in a 2 week time frame what would the price range be looking like? and how could i find parts. like i said im a newbie sorry for all the airhead questions
MOTOWN
06-09-2015, 05:04 PM
My first S/C was a Gen 1 Whipple on a 89 short box Chevy pick up tons of fun , if setup properly a Centri can come very close to off idle performance of a twin screw , most centri blowers aren't setup correctly which is why a lot of people think they have some sort of lag to them , if the converter stall speed is wrong , and the S/C isn't pullyed to optimum boost your going to have a dud! i can tell you my centri will easily slam you into the seat when leaving a light! both are great options , its more about what the driver wants the car to do at what rpm as opposed to "which blower is better"
Ambitious_GinG
06-09-2015, 05:10 PM
personally i like a quick launch from the get go just my personal opinion.
RubberCtyRauder
06-09-2015, 05:19 PM
Hard to say what it would cost but most spend between $3500 and $4000 for eaton parts. There is a list if parts in this forum at the top. It's a sticky post. Good places to find parts is eBay, corral.net, svt.com or something close to that. Installation and tuning will be additional. Total cost $5-6k
chief455
06-09-2015, 06:20 PM
My first S/C was a Gen 1 Whipple on a 89 short box Chevy pick up tons of fun , if setup properly a Centri can come very close to off idle performance of a twin screw , most centri blowers aren't setup correctly which is why a lot of people think they have some sort of lag to them , if the converter stall speed is wrong , and the S/C isn't pullyed to optimum boost your going to have a dud! i can tell you my centri will easily slam you into the seat when leaving a light! both are great options , its more about what the driver wants the car to do at what rpm as opposed to "which blower is better"
While the OP seems to favor the roots style characteristics, MOTOWN is right. My Procharged car had no, none, zero 'lag' or flat spots. The engine was stout to begin with (400rwhp) and the blower added nothing until boost was realized = BAM! 50% power gain as advertised = ~600rwhp.
At light throttle,, the blow off valve just whistling away the hot forced air, running on motor only, nice and crisp. Hit 0 vacuum or into boost, and the mule kicks. It took reserach, matching components carefully and tuning to get it right.
But, plopping an Eaton on your motor requires the same research and build methods, it is just a bit easier with so many using the same basic formula on these cars.
Good luck!
justbob
06-09-2015, 06:40 PM
My first S/C was a Gen 1 Whipple on a 89 short box Chevy pick up tons of fun , if setup properly a Centri can come very close to off idle performance of a twin screw , most centri blowers aren't setup correctly which is why a lot of people think they have some sort of lag to them , if the converter stall speed is wrong , and the S/C isn't pullyed to optimum boost your going to have a dud! i can tell you my centri will easily slam you into the seat when leaving a light! both are great options , its more about what the driver wants the car to do at what rpm as opposed to "which blower is better"
While this is very true as my centri also has zero lag/instant spine cracking/roots equivalent power, I was just going on the assumption of no added converter as he said he is on a budget.
No budget, then game on with any power adder and properly set up car. [emoji106]🏻
As for two weeks? Me no thinks so. Think shipping, funds clearing, and the laziness of some sellers!
Builder Of Badassery
Logizyme
06-09-2015, 08:07 PM
I would start patiently watching for the Eaton and lower intake, as finding one thats both in good condition and reasonably priced can take some time, meanwhile do your research on all the other parts you will need, most of which are readily available.
lji372
06-09-2015, 09:12 PM
Good luck getting that mild 400 rwhp centrifugal to do what a roots will give you from light to light.
It must be a better option, that's why cobras didn't come that way :P
rauder88
06-10-2015, 06:26 AM
if i was to gather it in a 2 week time frame what would the price range be looking like? and how could i find parts. like i said im a newbie sorry for all the airhead questions
One of the best places to find parts is the Cobra facebook page. Tons of termi parts on there. Eatons are listed daily. You will need to check out the sticky for all parts you need.
For what your looking for, I would do the eaton swap... Best option for torque on stock block.
Good luck!
Ambitious_GinG
06-10-2015, 09:17 AM
alright thanks everyone now i see there is alot more than to just find some parts and get someone to put it together. didnt think there were too many different ways of doing it. As one said look for the eaton and lower intake first. what are the other hard parts to find so if i can get them all around the same time id have more confidence to finish buying everything rather than buying everything and not being able to find a part. i will check out that facebook page also and begin my search for the eaton parts. Now like i said im young and inexperienced. what is different set up wise with the roots and centri build
Ambitious_GinG
06-10-2015, 09:19 AM
what is the name of the facebook page or link if you may add
martyo
06-10-2015, 09:22 AM
alright thanks everyone now i see there is alot more than to just find some parts and get someone to put it together. didnt think there were too many different ways of doing it. As one said look for the eaton and lower intake first. what are the other hard parts to find so if i can get them all around the same time id have more confidence to finish buying everything rather than buying everything and not being able to find a part. i will check out that facebook page also and begin my search for the eaton parts. Now like i said im young and inexperienced. what is different set up wise with the roots and centri build
what is the name of the facebook page or link if you may add
Keep in mind that if your budget has you looking for a used tuner, the blower install/swap may stretch your wallet beyond its limit.
Ambitious_GinG
06-10-2015, 09:33 AM
Keep in mind that if your budget has you looking for a used tuner, the blower install/swap may stretch your wallet beyond its limit.
yea i know i was just trying to find out a price for everything to know i if have enough money for it all to do it at once you know what i mean
88LTDCV351
06-10-2015, 09:39 AM
Bottom line is all choices are good, it won't matter which one you go with as long as it meets YOUR criteria. Anytime a Marauder gets blown, boosted, whatever, it's a good thing!:beer:
EDIT: I just noticed that ADTR's kit doesn't include a tune, not sure if Reinhardt's does. So in most cases you would have to find a tuner. Luckily, we have Mo on board to take care of that, but tuning now becomes an added cost as well.
DR's is supposed to come with a canned tune but he never sent that with my kit along with a number of other parts. Steer clear.
Ambitious_GinG
06-10-2015, 09:49 AM
DR's is supposed to come with a canned tune but he never sent that with my kit along with a number of other parts. Steer clear.
yea from what everyone says and from what ive read i heard he isnt trustworthy
solo5057
06-10-2015, 09:54 AM
I say eaton swap unless you find a trilogy. like I did lol:banana:
rauder88
06-10-2015, 11:50 AM
what is the name of the facebook page or link if you may add
A few listed now.
03-04 Cobra Parts on facebook you have to be accepted to the group.
SVTP forum is a good one too.
Bradley G
06-10-2015, 12:20 PM
I went Trilogy , Mine was a DD, so it had to start in Chicago weather.
I read centriffies have trouble.in cold weather
Ambitious_GinG
06-10-2015, 11:17 PM
So i was looking for the lower intake and eaton and a guy messaged me saying he had the lower intake with 55k miles. what would be a good off for this ? if its even worth it
Logizyme
06-10-2015, 11:36 PM
Typically best to acquire the lower intake with the intercooler and intercooler water inlet/outlet housing, getting them separately will be more trouble and more cost. Just my suggestion, as finding that water housing is kinda hard separate and its missing in that pic.
Ambitious_GinG
06-11-2015, 12:07 AM
Typically best to acquire the lower intake with the intercooler and intercooler water inlet/outlet housing, getting them separately will be more trouble and more cost. Just my suggestion, as finding that water housing is kinda hard separate and its missing in that pic.
is the lower intake just any from a 2003-2204 mustang cobra i saw on the side of it the number was different from the par number on the thread
Marauderjack
06-11-2015, 05:19 AM
I went Trilogy , Mine was a DD, so it had to start in Chicago weather.
I read centriffies have trouble.in cold weather
What kinda trouble do centrifugals have in cold wx??:confused:
We don't get to sub-zero here but I've never had a problem in the teens!!:cool:
You can't just blast off with a cold N/A engine either and expect it to last!!:shake:
Please explain Bradley!!;)
justbob
06-11-2015, 05:25 AM
What kinda trouble do centrifugals have in cold wx??:confused:
We don't get to sub-zero here but I've never had a problem in the teens!!:cool:
You can't just blast off with a cold N/A engine either and expect it to last!!:shake:
Please explain Bradley!!;)
I've heard of issues as well in extreme cold. Not with driving, just start up. [emoji6] Of course, it takes one to do the other...
Builder Of Badassery
1Marauder
06-11-2015, 05:35 AM
How about getting ADTR as a sponsor here. Lot's of stuff we might buy.
Been working on this for a while. West Coast needs some juice!
Sully008
06-11-2015, 07:58 AM
Here is a guy selling the lower intake/intercooler and water inlet. Note I have no dealing with this person. Just passing on the info:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1073578-Intercooler-Water-Outlet-w-tubes-Eaton-Bolts-Injectors
Typically the lower intake alone goes for $400-500 on eBay.
Lowndex
06-11-2015, 08:58 AM
Very well written article. Thank you.
P.S. I choose ADTR because of Chris ' s Panther knowledge, solid reputation and how helpful he is at addressing your questions.
Lowndex
06-11-2015, 09:02 AM
How about getting ADTR as a sponsor here. Lot's of stuff we might buy.
I agree. I inadvertently bought many parts from Summit I could have bought from ADTR, but did not realize they sold. I like Summit, but prefer to give business to ADTR.
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