AC problem doesn't look like EATC or BCM

[KIlo]

hello all the issue I am having is when I have my AC on at all I can hear a clicking noise in the engine bay and I can see one of the pulleys starting and then stopping. I can control the flow of the non cold air I can send it to any of the vent choices and the fan speed control works fine, floor works as does defrost and heat. The dealer replaced the BCM and the EATC previously a few years ago and in reading posts this doesn't really have the same symptoms, what do you think?

[fastblackmerc]

hello all the issue I am having is when I have my AC on at all I can hear a clicking noise in the engine bay and I can see one of the pulleys starting and then stopping. I can control the flow of the non cold air I can send it to any of the vent choices and the fan speed control works fine, floor works as does defrost and heat. The dealer replaced the BCM and the EATC previously a few years ago and in reading posts this doesn't really have the same symptoms, what do you think?

Sounds like the A/C is cycling (look at the front of the compressor and you should be able to see the clutch engaging and disengaging).
A/C clutch cycles because the R134 is low. The A/C system is a closed system so if the refrigerant is low there is a leak. Most likely place to find the leak is the receiver / dryer. They have a tendency to rust out.

I bet you spent a boat load on the new BCM & EATC. I could have fixed them for less than $100.00.

[KIlo]

Thanks for the info, ya I was aware of the fixes on this site but since I payed for the warranty when I bought it from Carmax why not use it :) I did use the LCM and wiper motor fixes tutorial and saved a ton of cash after the warranty ran out, I love this community!

[RF Overlord]

A/C clutch cycles because the R134 is low. The A/C system is a closed system so if the refrigerant is low there is a leak. Most likely place to find the leak is the receiver / dryer. They have a tendency to rust out.^^^what FBM said^^^

Note: the mentioned "receiver/dryer" is also called the "accumulator". Its position low down next to the radiator leads to failure. Get the aluminium one.

[Zack]

Don't rule out the blend door.
A cycling AC clutch is normal.

[EMAS]

What is the frequency of the on-off cycle. If the clutch only engages for a few seconds before disengaging then you are very low on refrigerant.

[KIlo]

It's really rapid that its switching on and back off several times in a minute, thanks again guys!

[fastblackmerc]

It's really rapid that its switching on and back off several times in a minute, thanks again guys!

Then your low on refrigerant.

Look for a leak.

[Marauderman]

Then your low on refrigerant.

Look for a leak.

You should let folks know why you know such things and stuff in your signature---after all--earned talent is very valuable and appreciated by those who really don't know that YOU know what you say!! Ok Bro--bragging on ya no mater what--K!

[Marauderman]

You should let folks know why you know such things and stuff in your signature---after all--earned talent is very valuable and appreciated by those who really don't know that YOU know what you say!! Ok Bro--bragging on ya no mater what--K!

Meaning put in your signature your experiences that explains your talent--sorry--cant stop bragging--carry on!

[lifespeed]

^^^what FBM said^^^

Note: the mentioned "receiver/dryer" is also called the "accumulator". Its position low down next to the radiator leads to failure. Get the aluminium one.

It's construction from steel doesn't help either. I live in California and mine still rotted, although I replaced it before it dumped all the refrigerant.

For sure get an aluminum one. They used to all be made from aluminum from this reason, no doubt Ford saved a few pennies. Just like the plastic cam chain tensioners, rubber EATC O-rings instead of silicone, C-clip axles, etc.

[MERCULES]

^^^what FBM said^^^

Note: the mentioned "receiver/dryer" is also called the "accumulator". Its position low down next to the radiator leads to failure. Get the aluminium one.


I have this issue and need to replace with the aluminum, not something I can do so it will go to a shop for repair. (it was identified on a vehicle inspection at a Ford dealership before I purchased the car)

What would you say is a reasonable cost for this repair and a recharge?
Any recommended additional repairs to the a/c at the same time.

[fastblackmerc]

I have this issue and need to replace with the aluminum, not something I can do so it will go to a shop for repair. (it was identified on a vehicle inspection at a Ford dealership before I purchased the car)

What would you say is a reasonable cost for this repair and a recharge?
Any recommended additional repairs to the a/c at the same time.

The receiver / dryer / accumulator is less than $50.00.

R&R is about 45 minutes.

R134 is expensive, probably around $150.00 to $250.00 to evacuate and recharge.

I'd replace all the o-rings (less than $20.00 for parts) and the orifice tube (less than $15.00 for the part).

EATC o-rings replaced.

BCM repaired.

[sergio442]

I replaced accumulated last year . This year all freon leaked out . I replaced the the valve stems in the high and low port . The low suction port was really weak . The cost 20.00 at advance .

[vegasmarauder]

Diagnose a little first before replacing parts. With it running if the top aluminun tube going into the large box part of the AC system on the passenger side is cold, your refrigerant may not be low. If the system is not using the cold put into the evaporator the icing switch will cycle the compressor off and on to prevent sytem freeze. If the top tube is cool or warm, the refirgerant is low or gone. Usually a leak can be spotted because it will be noticably wet and oily at the source of the leak. Also, Ford puts dye in their systems so if you have a black light (check some phone apps for a free one), in low light the black light will show exactly where the leak is.

Auto Zone rents a vacuum pump and guages if you want to fix anything you find wrong. There's a lot of how-tos on the internet to help. Common leak points other than those mentioned above are the high pressure line from the condensor to compressor (right about where it connects at the core support and the front seal on the compressor. If someone has leaned on the top tube too much and bent it, they can crack just inside the evaporator case. Have to replace the whole evaporator.

Also, if you change any part of the system good idea to change the orifice tube at the same time and the O rings at that connection. Cheap part and it does catch a lot of junk even in a brand new "clean" system.