Fuel Pump Problem or Other???

[HBTMD]

Replaced my fuel pump with an Aertech Stealth about 18 months ago.

Lately the car runs fine until it just sputters out and stalls, as if no fuel getting to engine. I wait a minute or two and start it up again and she runs fine for 30 min to an hour.

Could it be my fuel pump again? :confused:

[Mike M]

I have that problem when it gets very hot out, I think its vapor locking in the fuel rail. Just removed the fuel rail and wrapped it in heat deflecting tape as well as the fuel line pass the exhaust manifolds.
I have not tested it yet.

[lji372]

Sounds plausible.
Happened to me once, damn intermittent fuel pump grrrr I'll never forget it. It happened while we were heading out for a weeklong camping trip.

[HBTMD]

Thanks for the info. :beer:

Come to think of it, it only happens on 100 plus degree days out here in Las Vegas, NV.

Most recent event was 2 days ago when the outside temp registered as 114 degrees. I had just come off of the freeway with the air conditioner on full blast.

[Mike M]

Thanks for the info. :beer:

Come to think of it, it only happens on 100 plus degree days out here in Las Vegas, NV.

Most recent event was 2 days ago when the outside temp registered as 114 degrees. I had just come off of the freeway with the air conditioner on full blast.

I'm in AZ, it only happens over 110+ degrees. Usually happens when I have been driving it and slow to a stop for a traffic light. Then I watch my fuel pressure go lower on my ScanGauge until it shakes and dies.

I'm hoping the insulation job works.

[justbob]

I wrapped mine in header wrap very well and used 1/2" water pipe insulation on the fuel line. It did help but it was still riding on the very edge of shut down anytime it was hot out.

I finally went return style and also ditched that Trilogy heat pump for a centri and lowered my IATS around 50* even more so for general under hood heat. I was melting plastic parts under the hood it was so hot! The MAF was hour glass shaped where the worm clamp went, the blower was burning off its paint, basically a nightmare.

All good now, nice and cool, and an extra 244 HP over the Trilogy on tap! [emoji106]🏻


Builder Of Badassery

[Mike M]

I wrapped mine in header wrap very well and used 1/2" water pipe insulation on the fuel line. It did help but it was still riding on the very edge of shut down anytime it was hot out.

I finally went return style and also ditched that Trilogy heat pump for a centri and lowered my IATS around 50* even more so for general under hood heat. I was melting plastic parts under the hood it was so hot! The MAF was hour glass shaped where the worm clamp went, the blower was burning off its paint, basically a nightmare.

All good now, nice and cool, and an extra 244 HP over the Trilogy on tap! [emoji106]🏻


Builder Of Badassery


Return style is the way to go for sure.

[HBTMD]

An electrician friend of mine who works on cars a lot suggested changing my original 2003 gas cap.

He says that any leak in the fuel system can cause air in the fuel. This can result in vapor-lock type stalling out symptoms

Any thoughts?

I just ordered a new Motorcraft gas cap. :beer:

[Mike M]

An electrician friend of mine who works on cars a lot suggested changing my original 2003 gas cap.

He says that any leak in the fuel system can cause air in the fuel. This can result in vapor-lock type stalling out symptoms

Any thoughts?

I just ordered a new Motorcraft gas cap. :beer:

No, if you cap was leaking...even a bit, your check eng light would be on with a code for evap leak.

[MyBlackBeasts]

An electrician friend of mine who works on cars a lot suggested changing my original 2003 gas cap.

He says that any leak in the fuel system can cause air in the fuel. This can result in vapor-lock type stalling out symptoms

Any thoughts?

I just ordered a new Motorcraft gas cap. :beer:
No. Bad cap would cause EVAP code & CEL, not possible to cause air in fuel lines.