Car died like it's running out of gas.

[JBeezy]

On my way home my car just all of a sudden started acting like it's running out of gas. Thought it was the battery or alternator because when it first crank it my radio shut off and back on real quick. That's never happened. Voltage hand was down to 10.5 with A/C running. Then back up when u shut it off. Car is now turning over but no start. I can hear the pump priming up when i turn the switch on. First issue i ever really had with this car. 57k miles. Any suggestions will.be greatly appreciated .

[03Merc]

Fuel pump reset switch?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JBeezy]

Fuel pump reset switch?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Checked that first. Thanks! I will be investing in a fuel pressure gauge asap.

I tried to start it again and it did. Barely. It was barely running though. Tried to give it gas and it died

In an attempt to get it started while waiting on a tow truck, I went home and got my old fpdm and swapped it in. Car started but was barely running as before. I guess it's the AEM340 that has less than 8k miles on it. I may swap in the stock pump and see if that fixes it.

[1Marauder]

Sounds dumb... Check all air intake. My JLT came loose at a stop light and it felt like I was out of gas, and wouldn't start. The curved rubber had come unclamped along the back/underneath opening a 1/2 gap.

[xopher]

On my way home my car just all of a sudden started acting like it's running out of gas. Thought it was the battery or alternator because when it first crank it my radio shut off and back on real quick. That's never happened. Voltage hand was down to 10.5 with A/C running. Then back up when u shut it off. Car is now turning over but no start. I can hear the pump priming up when i turn the switch on. First issue i ever really had with this car. 57k miles. Any suggestions will.be greatly appreciated .
I had power issues and it turned out to be old nasty wiring at the terminal and the battery. I spliced in new wires and swapped the battery and the issue went away.

[JBeezy]

When the flat bed finally showed up. He jumped in, started the car and drove it up on the flat bed. It was running rough but it made it.

When we got it to my house it started again. I backed it in the garage and it was still running rough and my wide bad was showing very lean.

[Zack]

You really need to address the voltage issue first and foremost.
It could be a lot of things, but I suspect a fuel problem
Bad pump, split line in the tank etc...

[JBeezy]

You really need to address the voltage issue first and foremost.
It could be a lot of things, but I suspect a fuel problem
Bad pump, split line in the tank etc...
I can't recall if the voltage has ever been this low with the A/C on, but maybe someone can tell me if this is below the limit. When I turned the A/C off it went back to normal.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b208/impalasscars/Mobile%20Uploads/20150707_192616.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/impalasscars/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150707_192616.jpg.html)

[jwibbity]

thats low even for a full load at idle, define return to normal??? back to round 14V??

And I'll say it now before the old crunchy guys jump in, the volt meter is not 100% accurate but its still decent without having to whip out a multimeter.....

[JBeezy]

thats low even for a full load at idle, define return to normal??? back to round 14V??

And I'll say it now before the old crunchy guys jump in, the volt meter is not 100% accurate but its still decent without having to whip out a multimeter.....
Yes, it went back up to around 14. Since that's low, should I take the battery to have it checked or would this be a sign of the alternator going bad? This is the same battery that's been in the car since I purchased it in 2010.

[fastblackmerc]

How old is the battery?

Bet it's bad.

[JBeezy]

How old is the battery?

Bet it's bad.
That I don't know, but it's older than 5 years for sure. It turns the engine over with no drag. Same as it has since I've owned the car. Even now

[MOTOWN]

If your battery is older than 5 years i would start there and test it, then check for loose grounds , power wires corrosion, and check that the alternator is properly charging the battery.

[BigM460]

My guess is a fuel hose pushed off or split inside the tank. If it still will run check fuel pump demand and fuel pressure. If demand maxed and pressure low than that's it.

[gdmjoe]

Check the fuel filter.
.

[fastblackmerc]

Check the fuel filter.
.

+1!!!!!!!!

Especially if it's never been changed.

[Zack]

It's not the fuel filter

[JBeezy]

Went out and started the car this morning. Crank and idled fine. I let it run until it reached normal operating temperature. Plugged in xcal to try to check fuel pressure and fuel demand and obviously those aren't options on an xcal3 or I just don't know what I'm doing.

I did notice wideband stayed more towards rich side around 12ish and eventually I couldn't see the data on the xcal but the screen was still blue as if it was on. I checked the battery with my multimeter and it read 14.01 volts. Voltmeter in the car read 14 as well. Can a battery cause this?

Forgot to mention, I tried to Rev the car and it Rev and stumble, but would come back to idle. After a few times it started to run a little rough again. I shut it down.

[fastblackmerc]

Went out and started the car this morning. Crank and idled fine. I let it run until it reached normal operating temperature. Plugged in xcal to try to check fuel pressure and fuel demand and obviously those aren't options on an xcal3 or I just don't know what I'm doing.

I did notice wideband stayed more towards rich side around 12ish and eventually I couldn't see the data on the xcal but the screen was still blue as if it was on. I checked the battery with my multimeter and it read 14.01 volts. Voltmeter in the car read 14 as well. Can a battery cause this?

Forgot to mention, I tried to Rev the car and it Rev and stumble, but would come back to idle. After a few times it started to run a little rough again. I shut it down.
Get any FLAPS to load test the battery. 14v is good but the battery can have a dead cell or other problem. Also the alternator can be failing at higher RPMs or under a load.

[JBeezy]

My plan is to take the battery to have it tested. I hope I can remove the alternator without removing the blower. Fingers crossed

[larryo340]

I"ve seen MAF's do crazy things...mine caused the car to have a surging idle. Once replaced it ran great. FWIW if you buy an Hitachi MAF it is a real FORD part.

[lifespeed]

The voltmeter in the console is not that accurate. I have compared it to my good Fluke multimeter, proving the OEM voltmeter is in error.

If you suspect a voltage problem confirm it with a real voltmeter. Probably your PCM indication from the scan tool is better than that gauge.

[JBeezy]

Just had the battery load tested and it came back as a bad battery. Crazy as it turns the engine over with no dragging at all. Maybe that's the problem or part of it.

[BigM460]

Just had the battery load tested and it came back as a bad battery. Crazy as it turns the engine over with no dragging at all. Maybe that's the problem or part of it.

Hope that's the issue! That's an easy fix if so. Would have thought the alternator would power everything once running though?

[lifespeed]

Hope that's the issue! That's an easy fix if so. Would have thought the alternator would power everything once running though?

Yes, kind of unlikely to be the fix unless the battery was doing something bizarre like intermittently shorting out and pulling the alternator voltage down. But anything is possible . . .

[JBeezy]

I'm still going to pull the alternator and have it checked tomorrow. Would hate to put a battery in, drive it and it die on me again

[JBeezy]

Motorcraft tested tough Max or Super Start Platinum Battery from O'Reilly? Other recommendations are welcome

[Zack]

Hope that's the issue! That's an easy fix if so. Would have thought the alternator would power everything once running though?

That's not how it works.

[GetMeMyStogie]

Motorcraft tested tough Max or Super Start Platinum Battery from O'Reilly? Other recommendations are welcome

Kirkland brand from Costco :-) Same warranty and specs as the Ford battery, $30 or so less.

[sweetair]

I had to replace my fuel pump at 39K on the clock. Drove it on an errand and then it would not start.

Note---I was able to replace it by jacking up the rear of the car and letting the rear end "hang" down and not having to drop the tank.

Good luck.

[JBeezy]

I had to replace my fuel pump at 39K on the clock. Drove it on an errand and then it would not start.

Note---I was able to replace it by jacking up the rear of the car and letting the rear end "hang" down and not having to drop the tank.

Good luck.
Been there. Swapped out the OEM pump to the AEM that way. If this new battery doesn't solve the issue I may be pulling it.

Alternator checked out to be good.

[RubberCtyRauder]

I like the motorcraft batteries..BXT 650 or 750, 850 if you want more CCA, prolly not needed in AL.

I have a drain on my battery that I have not traced yet and when the battery gets low, like if it sits for 3 - 4 weeks, weird stuff happens when trying to start if not enough volts to crank it over. hard to describe

[JBeezy]

I bought an Autocraft platinum-AGM from Advance Auto. Lists for like $188, but I used a $50 off of $175 coupon.


With that being said it's not the battery. Car started and ran fine. Charging like it should. I let it idle for 10 min or so with no problems. So I bravely took it for a spin around the block. First 1/2 mile was fine, then I felt it sputter so I got it back home. When I pull in the garage it started to run lean and rough so I shut it down. I'm guessing the fuel pump gets warmed up and starts to fail. Still doesn't prime up like it once did. Sounds different.

Is there a fuel pump on the same level of the AEM340? I have a boost a pump but it's been on 0. How about the Walbro 255 High Volume?

[Badass_forever]

you don't want to much pump in the car since it is not a return system. I know people will say the frpdm blah blah blah. They over heat with large pumps and you dont need that added headace. Fuel pumps them selves are very cheap and super easy to change. do you have a fuel pressure gauge? don't start changing parts unless you know what the problem is. If you dont have a gauge im sure a local part store will loan you one.

I have personally built a lot of fuel systems in a lot of different fords, if it turns out to be the pump i would be more then happy to point you in the right direction.

[JBeezy]

No gauge, but I plan on getting one.

[Zack]

You say you have an AEM 340 but there is no such thing.
Do you have an AEM320 or an Aeromotive 340?

[JBeezy]

You say you have an AEM 340 but there is no such thing.
Do you have an AEM320 or an Aeromotive 340?
Aeromotive 340, my bad.

[sweetair]

When I did my fuel pump I went with the Focus one. I contacted Lidio and he recommended that one. It's obviously a Ford part.

[Badass_forever]

i would just replace with it with whatever rock auto sells till you upgrade.

[JBeezy]

i would just replace with it with whatever rock auto sells till you upgrade.
I'm going to monitor fuel pressure first. I have my 49k mile stock pump that I could try, but not trying to swap it twice if that's the problem

[Badass_forever]

well you say its not doing it all the time right? it will just start running rough and show lean on your A/F gauge correct? its either a large vaccum leak that opens randomly, your mass air meter or a fuel pump. Its so hard to pin point because **** will do weird random things.

you said your SCT wont show your fuel pressure? only other way to do that is leave the hood open and wait till it starts to act up with the gauge on the rail. the only other thing i can think of is a dirty sock on the pump that is plugging it randomly.

I just keep asking because im really interested in the trouble shooting.

[JBeezy]

It starts up fine and runs great for approx. 10 min idling. Then slowly starts to run rough and show lean on my wideband. I personally think it's the pump. It doesn't sound the same when I turn the key on before cranking as it use to before this issue happened. I'll report back when I monitor fuel pressure

[lifespeed]

You can get a Bluetooth OBDLink (http://www.obdlink.com/) dongle that will let your smartphone display many parameters that your ECU has access to, including fuel pressure. There are many OBD-II Bluetooth adapters, but OBDLink is the best.

[JBeezy]

You can get a Bluetooth OBDLink (http://www.obdlink.com/) dongle that will let your smartphone display many parameters that your ECU has access to, including fuel pressure. There are many OBD-II Bluetooth adapters, but OBDLink is the best.
Funny you say that. Went over and borrowed one from my buddy Chris(BigM460) last night. Then he took me for a ride in his car. Now I want more power. Thanks Chris

[BigM460]

Funny you say that. Went over and borrowed one from my buddy Chris(BigM460) last night. Then he took me for a ride in his car. Now I want more power. Thanks Chris

You're welcome!

[Comin' in Hot]

Haven't been following this post, and I don't feel like reading the whole thing. I had the same thing happened to me. Check the main wiring harness that runs around the front of the car. Especially where it crosses over the bracket that connects the front lower fender to the core support on each side. Mine rubbed through and I lost my fuel pump.

[JBeezy]

I pulled the pump this morning. Pump is coming on as should. Since I had it out, I tried a new pump that I got from Chris last night. Still the same issue.

When I went to start it with new pump it wouldn't start. I patted the throttle and it started. Makes me think something is going on with the IAC. Going to clean that just in case. I pulled the MAF and cleaned it as well. Car will run and idle for 10 min or so then starts to run bad and wide band shows lean when this happens. It has a hesitation if I try to Rev it high from idle

[tbone]

Fuel pump pressure sensor? Gas tank venting properly? Remove the gas cap and see if you hear any hissing as you do it, or run the car with it taken off.

Did you try pushing on the schrader valve on the fuel rail to see if any fuel squirts out after it stalls?

[JBeezy]

Fuel pump pressure sensor? Gas tank venting properly? Remove the gas cap and see if you hear any hissing as you do it, or run the car with it taken off.

Did you try pushing on the schrader valve on the fuel rail to see if any fuel squirts out after it stalls?
No, didn't try that, but i will

[JBeezy]

It's been sitting for a couple of hours. I tried to start the car and it wouldn't. Even if I pressed the accelerator. I pushed the Schrader valve and fuel squirted out. I'm usually pretty good at figuring these things out but this has me stumped. I need to stick to foxbody mustangs. Geesh

[justbob]

Sounds almost like a faulty o2 sensor, or you indeed have an issue.

When your car is cold started it remains in open loop fueling based on info provided by the MAF, MAP, and ECT as the o2's can't be trusted when cold. Also a cold engine requires a richer fuel mix (your IAC cuts the air flow and the injector pulse width is increased).

Maybe your troubles begin after you enter closed loop mode. You should verify that the next time it starts with a scanner.

Here's a very helpful link to help you understand how it all works.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/t511544-fuel_sys_open_closed_loop.html


Builder Of Badassery

[JBeezy]

Sounds almost like a faulty o2 sensor, or you indeed have an issue.

When your car is cold started it remains in open loop fueling based on info provided by the MAF, MAP, and ECT as the o2's can't be trusted when cold. Also a cold engine requires a richer fuel mix (your IAC cuts the air flow and the injector pulse width is increased).

Maybe your troubles begin after you enter closed loop mode. You should verify that the next time it starts with a scanner.

Here's a very helpful link to help you understand how it all works.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/t511544-fuel_sys_open_closed_loop.html


Builder Of Badassery
I have my sct. Can I use that? Also what should I look for? Not going to mess with it anymore tonight.

[BigM460]

I have my sct. Can I use that? Also what should I look for? Not going to mess with it anymore tonight.

You can watch O2's with the Torque app also. Look for the O2 voltage gauges and also the fuel trims for the first O2's. If they don't oscillate back and forth and stay in one place (voltage) something is up with the sensor, or you may have a vacuum line blown off. I have had issues with the one under the throttle body, and the one on passenger side center of the manifold.
Hope that helps, more stuff to check. :(

[Motorhead350]

Could be a COT sensor.

Gas gage could be off, but if it staying running for ten min I doubt you are out of gas.

Try the drivers COT gAge. Passenger one would be for cold start issure.

Also the air filter. I had medium performance and two lean codes on my woman's Mountaineer, the air filter was dirty, I changed it. Codes went away and performance was back.

[justbob]

I have my sct. Can I use that? Also what should I look for? Not going to mess with it anymore tonight.


I don't know. I normally get whatever I need from my scanner. Nothing fancy just an Actron.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/11/72a50fe3b29dace5c06bf188b6153a 4e.jpg

Check your STFT's and see if they are close to zero on both banks. Also check that the o2's are bouncing between rich and lean like already mentioned. IIRC the healthiest bouncing is around 8 times in 10 seconds. Been awhile but that sounds about right. These depict your STFT's in closed loop.

I wouldn't worry too much on the ECT as it starts fine. In the future if it didn't you would want to make that it's temp is within 5* of your IAT on a cold start. If it's not, then it or it's circuit is reading incorrectly and will cause a poor starting condition until warm. Basically your opposite, but good info to learn.


Builder Of Badassery

[JBeezy]

I went out and did this before I saw these last post. The car wouldn't start without help. I had to keep cranking and giving it throttle until it finally started.

Check out this little video as well. Watch what happens as I press the throttle.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b208/impalasscars/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-07-11-20-09-31.png (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/impalasscars/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-07-11-20-09-31.png.html)

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b208/impalasscars/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-07-11-20-09-35.png (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/impalasscars/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-07-11-20-09-35.png.html)

https://youtu.be/hUyWkWFB8_E

[BigM460]

Something is wrong in the tank! You should be in the 39psi range for fuel pressure. Fuel pump demand should be 18-22ish range at idle. Yours is maxed out at 48.4!!!

[JBeezy]

Something is wrong in the tank! You should be in the 39psi range for fuel pressure. Fuel pump demand should be 18-22ish range at idle. Yours is maxed out at 48.4!!!
I couldn't get it to read fuel pressure. That's fuel rail pressure. Not sure what the difference is, lol

[BigM460]

I couldn't get it to read fuel pressure. That's fuel rail pressure. Not sure what the difference is, lol

Fuel pressure and rail pressure should be the same.

[justbob]

I could be wrong so please verify, but I thought the FPDC only shows a ceiling of 49.9 meaning you need to X's it by 2? If so that's telling me your duty cycle is at 96.8%. This seems right judging by the lack of 40 PSI present.

I did notice your pulling proper vacuum off your boost gauge.

Honestly, I suck at this without having my hands in it.. Even then it can be a pain staking mental drain.


Builder Of Badassery

[BigM460]

I could be wrong so please verify, but I thought the FPDC only shows a ceiling of 49.9 meaning you need to X's it by 2? If so that's telling me your duty cycle is at 96.8%. This seems right judging by the lack of 40 PSI present.

I did notice your pulling proper vacuum off your boost gauge.

Honestly, I suck at this without having my hands in it.. Even then it can be a pain staking mental drain.


Builder Of Badassery

Correct on fpdc. Mine will show maxed out as 48.4-48.6. This is what I've seen with mine when one of the pump lines blew off.

[JBeezy]

I know you all say something isn't right with the pump duty cycle. Any ideas of what would cause this?

I've been brainstorming. Could a crank, throttle position or cam sensor play a role in any of this?

[WhatsUpDOHC]

Haven't been following this post, and I don't feel like reading the whole thing. I had the same thing happened to me. Check the main wiring harness that runs around the front of the car. Especially where it crosses over the bracket that connects the front lower fender to the core support on each side. Mine rubbed through and I lost my fuel pump.
JBeezy, have you checked the wiring harness?

[JBeezy]

JBeezy, have you checked the wiring harness?
In the process of doing that now.

I'm also going to replace the relay I used when I installed the boost a pump. It was a relay we had laying around. Not sure how old it is or how long it's been there. Something has this duty cycle high. Been reading up on that as well

[JBeezy]

Checked the wiring harness and it looks fine.

Is there any way to check the fuel rail pressure sensor? I've read where these go bad and cause some of the same symptoms.

Edit: I've ruled out the FRPS. I took one from an engine at my buddies and still the same issue.

I think I'm going to go back in the tank and look at the line going to the fuel hat. After that I'm out of ideas

[justbob]

Keep in mind the FPDM that gets its info from the FRPS is what controls your pump. You already diagnosed a good FRPS. And no, I don't have a clue how to test. Sorry.


Builder Of Badassery

[JBeezy]

Well I'm proud and embarrassed to say I found the problem. Ended up being a split hose coming off the fuel pump. Yes I checked it visually, but NO I didn't pull it off and thoroughly check it. In all the years I've been swapping fuel pumps I've never seen a hose split like this. NEVER! After all the research I've done today I've learned how our fuel system works. I guess the experience was worth it. Thanks for all of your help, input, and support. BigM460 nailed it. Only difference from yesterday and today when I pulled the pump, today it stuck out like a sore thumb. In the future I will start inspecting this hose on any vehicle I pull the pump from, THOROUGHLY. Also, this pump has been in less than 2 years.

Now, the big question of the night is, what is the best hose to replace this with? The hose I used came with the Aeromotive pump and I would think it would be good. I'm not interested in replacing this hose every 1.5 years.

Now, the culprit

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b208/impalasscars/Mobile%20Uploads/20150712_202939.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/impalasscars/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150712_202939.jpg.html)

[justbob]

Awesome man! I used Napa submersible fuel line. It's sold in 1' sections at around $32.00 EACH..


Builder Of Badassery

[JBeezy]

Do you know who makes it? There is not a Napa in town anymore. Closest one is 30 miles away. My buddy is a manager at O'Reilly and he says they keep Gates hose in.

[Bob Mathis]

Glade you found the issue.

[tbone]

I had the hose pop off my Walbro 255 pump. Bought an Aeromotive pump and discovered the issue when installing it. Now I have an extra Walbro for an emergency.

I'm betting that fuel line isn't really fuel line. Even the cut is all jagged and the top clamp was installed crooked. Who installed it 2 years ago?

Gates fuel line is probably $2/foot and will last 20 years+. Tell them you need 2" and cost = $0.

[JBeezy]

I installed it. The edge is jagged because I couldn't find anything to cut it with at the time. Don't think either of those things had anything to do with it bursting though :-)

[JBeezy]

I'm going to try out the Gates hose from O'Reilly Auto. Called the guy at the closest NAPA and he gave me 2 different prices for the submersible fuel line and both were really cheap. Didn't seem to know what I was looking for. I don't want to drive there for nothing.

[JBeezy]

I'm going to try out the Gates hose from O'Reilly Auto. Called the guy at the closest NAPA and he gave me 2 different prices for the submersible fuel line and both were really cheap. Didn't seem to know what I was looking for. I don't want to drive there for nothing.
Did you happen to have the part number on that hose? I had my buddy stop bt Napa on his way in and I talked to the guy there. He gave me a hose that carries the part#4219bf. I looked it up and that doesn't show to be submersible. What gives? Who are these parts stores hiring these days

Awesome man! I used Napa submersible fuel line. It's sold in 1' sections at around $32.00 EACH..


Builder Of Badassery

[justbob]

http://www.napabeltshose.com/~/media/NAPA/Documents/NAPA%20Submersible%20hose.pdf


Builder Of Badassery

[justbob]

I had the hose pop off my Walbro 255 pump. Bought an Aeromotive pump and discovered the issue when installing it. Now I have an extra Walbro for an emergency.

I'm betting that fuel line isn't really fuel line. Even the cut is all jagged and the top clamp was installed crooked. Who installed it 2 years ago?

Gates fuel line is probably $2/foot and will last 20 years+. Tell them you need 2" and cost = $0.


If you are paying less than $30 a foot then you are not purchasing SAE 30R10 or better submersible fuel line and you will indeed have issues. The outside of regular fuel line is not protected from the chemicals in gas.


Builder Of Badassery

[justbob]

Also Gates 27097 for 3/8" or 27093 for 5/16"

I used 3/8" because my hat is drilled for 3/8" barbed. I had to widdle down a 1/2" long piece to take up the gap between the pump and the hose due to the pump only being 5/16". If yours is a stock hat I believe it's 5/16".

And why do I spot worm clamp marks on that hose? You need to use fuel injection clamps. WAY higher pressures that the worm driven clamps are not meant for. You were lucky. Use these. I can't believe Aeromotive includes worm clamps..
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/13/dff51082507363f2ade2acef373d4e 13.jpg



Builder Of Badassery

[JBeezy]

Also Gates 27097 for 3/8" or 27093 for 5/16"

I used 3/8" because my hat is drilled for 3/8" barbed. I had to widdle down a 1/2" long piece to take up the gap between the pump and the hose due to the pump only being 5/16". If yours is a stock hat I believe it's 5/16".

And why do I spot worm clamp marks on that hose? You need to use fuel injection clamps. WAY higher pressures that the worm driven clamps are not meant for. You were lucky. Use these. I can't believe Aeromotive includes worm clamps..
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/13/dff51082507363f2ade2acef373d4e 13.jpg



Builder Of Badassery


Also Gates 27097 for 3/8" or 27093 for 5/16"

I used 3/8" because my hat is drilled for 3/8" barbed. I had to widdle down a 1/2" long piece to take up the gap between the pump and the hose due to the pump only being 5/16". If yours is a stock hat I believe it's 5/16".

And why do I spot worm clamp marks on that hose? You need to use fuel injection clamps. WAY higher pressures that the worm driven clamps are not meant for. You were lucky. Use these. I can't believe Aeromotive includes worm clamps..
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/13/dff51082507363f2ade2acef373d4e 13.jpg



Builder Of Badassery


Also Gates 27097 for 3/8" or 27093 for 5/16"

I used 3/8" because my hat is drilled for 3/8" barbed. I had to widdle down a 1/2" long piece to take up the gap between the pump and the hose due to the pump only being 5/16". If yours is a stock hat I believe it's 5/16".

And why do I spot worm clamp marks on that hose? You need to use fuel injection clamps. WAY higher pressures that the worm driven clamps are not meant for. You were lucky. Use these. I can't believe Aeromotive includes worm clamps..
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/13/dff51082507363f2ade2acef373d4e 13.jpg



Builder Of Badassery
He found me some 5/16" hose. Maybe I can get this thing going today. Yes, those clamps came with the pump. Hose too. Ill pick up some clamps like you show above on my way home. Thanks again Bob

[Bob Mathis]

From what I have read on the Gate web site you should be fine. It does cost.

[justbob]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/13/6004c2d20b247c9173a89fe35240dc 6c.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/13/9054d39edd0bb8570194b20582fd29 f7.jpg


Builder Of Badassery

[JBeezy]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/13/6004c2d20b247c9173a89fe35240dc 6c.jpg
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Builder Of Badassery
That's exactly what I read. He got me this. Got it all back together and it's running great as before. Thanks for all of your help. It's greatly appreciated.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b208/impalasscars/Mobile%20Uploads/imagejpeg_0_1.jpg (http://s20.photobucket.com/user/impalasscars/media/Mobile%20Uploads/imagejpeg_0_1.jpg.html)

[justbob]

[emoji106]🏻


Builder Of Badassery

[Vostok]

Voltage should never drop below 12. I get suspicious of alternator issues any time I see less than 13. A/C being on is no exception. The internal regulator should adjust whenever higher loads are applied.

[JBeezy]

Voltage should never drop below 12. I get suspicious of alternator issues any time I see less than 13. A/C being on is no exception. The internal regulator should adjust whenever higher loads are applied.
Problem ended up being the battery

[tbone]

If you are paying less than $30 a foot then you are not purchasing SAE 30R10 or better submersible fuel line and you will indeed have issues. The outside of regular fuel line is not protected from the chemicals in gas.


Builder Of Badassery

Well what dbag came up with that way of making fuel line? And $30 a foot for the submersible type? :confused:

I probably used the fuel line that came with the pump. I don't remember.

[tbone]

I installed it. The edge is jagged because I couldn't find anything to cut it with at the time. Don't think either of those things had anything to do with it bursting though :-)

My point was if they couldn't even cut the line straight, the chances that they bothered to find and install real fuel line and not a radiator hose was slim.

Sorry, didn't mean to cut down your work.

[JBeezy]

My point was if they couldn't even cut the line straight, the chances that they bothered to find and install real fuel line and not a radiator hose was slim.

Sorry, didn't mean to cut down your work.
I understand. I admit it wasn't the best cut, but it worked and I'm not really that tedious about something that will never be seen, lol. But I promise you this, I made sure the new hose was cut evenly on both ends. Yes I did use fuel line clamps this time, and not the supplied clamps that came with the pump. Thanks again for your help and keeping me straight.[emoji16]

To add, I'm not a mechanic, but I'm mechanically inclined to do my own work. I pick and choose my battles based on the complexity.

[justbob]

Still curious how the old hose split? I can't recall the brand Aeromotive sends with the pumps, but I seem to remember it was a quality brand. I may still have a few around here buried. Note to self, they are now for the lawn mower.. [emoji4]


Builder Of Badassery

[JBeezy]

Still curious how the old hose split? I can't recall the brand Aeromotive sends with the pumps, but I seem to remember it was a quality brand. I may still have a few around here buried. Note to self, they are now for the lawn mower.. [emoji4]


Builder Of Badassery
Not sure of the brand myself, but I'm guessing the pump was just too much for it. I've never seen anything like it. Don't remember seeing any numbers on it either

[BigM460]

I'm thinking that the 340's can push more than 100psi when they prime.