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Pat
09-01-2015, 02:44 PM
After the roof was replaced on my MM, I noticed the effect was not very shiny or "smooth" compared to the original paint on the other body panels.

The quality of the paint spray was great, no runs, no faded spots, even consistency, no orange peels or peeble effect. The color, silver birch, was spot on.

I talked to an automotive painter, briefly while in the super market check out lane, and he said the finish needed to be "cut". Not sure exactly was he meant but it sounds like an abrasive technique of some sort.

Does anyone know what may need to be done to make my roof as shiny and smooth as the other, original, body panels?

I trust members of this site based on past experience, so before I go to a paint shop and get hosed I need to understand the terms used and prices for this type of service.

Thanks,

RubberCtyRauder
09-01-2015, 03:03 PM
Wet sand with 2000 -3000 grit paper then machine buffed with compound

Spectragod
09-01-2015, 03:07 PM
^^^what he said^^^ also called a cut and buff. Your actually starting point (sandpaper grit) would depend on how much orange peel the surface has, you can generally bring the finish back up nicely after 2000 grit with little effort.

jay87lx
09-01-2015, 03:21 PM
If you do attempt to do this yourself here are a few suggestions. Use some 3/4" 3M masking tape and tape up the windshield and rear window trim so you don't damage them with the buffer, sanding or get compound all caught up in there. I usually run my tape just over the edge of the moulding onto the paint about 1/8". You can also open both doors and run tape along that edge as well so essentially you have a square area of the roof that you will be correcting. I would strongly suggest a backing pad on your sandpaper, let the paper soak in a bucket of water before using. Starting at 1500 or 2000 depending on the amount of correcting that needs to be done. If you start with 1500 I would follow up with 2000, if you start with 2000 you can go right to buffing. Then I would suggest using Meguiers products. The M105 and 205 combo works very well for professionals and is very user friendly for novices. Meguiers M105 on an appropriate foam pad will get the finish that will be "dull" after sanding all back to almost shiney and glossy, leaving a "haze". Take your time on this step and do the whole area evenly. I would wipe down that area so there is no more excess product around that could get mixed up with the polish. After that the step 2 is the Meguiers M205, again on an appropriate foam pad and polish in the same manner you did the M105. Again, take your time and do the whole area evenly, After that, remove all the tape, wipe down, wax stand back and admire your work...

Being that your car is silver gives you a bit of an advantage

Pat
09-01-2015, 04:09 PM
Thanks men, I think we have an understanding of what needs to be done.

Marauderjack
09-02-2015, 02:37 AM
Pat......try this on a spot and you will be amazed at the results!!:eek:

http://www.flitz.com/flitz-polish-paste/

A little "elbow grease" and you'll probably wanna do the whole car!!:beer:

Spectragod
09-02-2015, 03:33 AM
Pat......try this on a spot and you will be amazed at the results!!:eek:

http://www.flitz.com/flitz-polish-paste/

A little "elbow grease" and you'll probably wanna do the whole car!!:beer:

I am not so sure I would use Flitz on a painted surface, as it is an abrasive.

Marauderjack
09-02-2015, 04:36 AM
It is very lightly abrasive using Sodium Bicarbonate.......have used it hundreds of time with great results!!:beer:

03blackvegas
09-02-2015, 06:23 PM
If you do attempt to do this yourself here are a few suggestions. Use some 3/4" 3M masking tape and tape up the windshield and rear window trim so you don't damage them with the buffer, sanding or get compound all caught up in there. I usually run my tape just over the edge of the moulding onto the paint about 1/8". You can also open both doors and run tape along that edge as well so essentially you have a square area of the roof that you will be correcting. I would strongly suggest a backing pad on your sandpaper, let the paper soak in a bucket of water before using. Starting at 1500 or 2000 depending on the amount of correcting that needs to be done. If you start with 1500 I would follow up with 2000, if you start with 2000 you can go right to buffing. Then I would suggest using Meguiers products. The M105 and 205 combo works very well for professionals and is very user friendly for novices. Meguiers M105 on an appropriate foam pad will get the finish that will be "dull" after sanding all back to almost shiney and glossy, leaving a "haze". Take your time on this step and do the whole area evenly. I would wipe down that area so there is no more excess product around that could get mixed up with the polish. After that the step 2 is the Meguiers M205, again on an appropriate foam pad and polish in the same manner you did the M105. Again, take your time and do the whole area evenly, After that, remove all the tape, wipe down, wax stand back and admire your work...

Being that your car is silver gives you a bit of an advantage

What do you mean by your last paragraph?

jay87lx
09-02-2015, 06:35 PM
Silver is an easier color to deal with vs lets say black

03blackvegas
09-02-2015, 06:59 PM
I'm a little confused, in your original post you stated, the affect was not very shiny or smooth compared to the original paint, then right below you state, the quality of the paint spray was great, no runs, no faded spots, no orange peel, etc. Without seeing your car, it sounds like the clear used on the roof was either inferior, or was not applied correctly. Spraying a flat panel with the right Spray gun, using the proper technique, and quality materials, should result in a factory or better finish when pulled out of the booth. To improve the appearance of clear after it has been sprayed usually requires machine polishing of the surface, and typically prior to polishing some form of sanding is done to remove surface imperfections, such as dirt particles and orange peel. If 2 to 3 coats of high solids clear were used on the roof, then sanding with Ultra Fine Wet-N-Dry 1500, to 2000 grit should give desired results. This process is best left up to experienced personal. Bottom line, to it back, and tell them to make the roof look like the rest of the car, which they should have done in the first place.

03blackvegas
09-02-2015, 07:22 PM
Silver is an easier color to deal with vs lets say black

What do you mean, "Deal with"?. I'm sure you realize all colors are under clear, so your not working with the actual color like back in the Enamel and Lacquer days. Different colors show flaws and imperfections that are more or less obvious to the human eye, black lets your eyes notice things that white might hide. But lets stop and think about something for a moment, if your working with a painted surface, and your trying to remove flaws and improve the appearance, would't you like to be able your see progress as you moved forward toward your goal? So in a technical function, darker colors allow this to occur. Thus dispelling the idea that darker colors are harder to "Deal with".

sailsmen
09-02-2015, 08:25 PM
Black is cheap.

CrownVictorious
09-03-2015, 08:05 AM
^ Black Paint Matters.










:D

MyBlackBeasts
09-12-2015, 05:53 PM
^ Black Paint Matters. :D


:rofl::rofl::rofl:

J-MAN
09-12-2015, 08:03 PM
Uh, take it back and let them finish what they started?

jay87lx
09-13-2015, 12:16 PM
What was the reason the roof needed to be replaced??

Pat
09-13-2015, 01:06 PM
What was the reason the roof needed to be replaced??


Rust in the metal above the DS "C" pillar. Started out as a small area of bubbling, an inch square, and developed into a 6+" area completely rusted through the roof metal, which isn't very thick. No water intrusion or run down from another point on the roof, the body man said "bad metal". The rust accumulation was collected on the roof frame (inside) and was just laying there. After cleaning and zinc coating the frame, a new roof, which is a Part #, like a knob, was layed on. The moon roof cutout was made since the factory doesn't put in the moon roof, a contractor does that and the car is then reintroduced back into the production line.

I was really scared that it couldn't be done well and thought my Maraudering days were done. I asked the body man (Bossier Collision Center) if he thought the repair would come out OK, he looked at me and in a calm voice said "Mr. Kirkes, that's what we do". I knew Silverback was in good hands.

I was there during the repair process. It was perfect, the moon roof cutout was spot on and works great.

I wish the paint department was as good.

Cheers.

jay87lx
09-13-2015, 01:25 PM
May I ask the cost?
One of the MM's we have is having roof issues and has a sunroof as well

Pat
09-13-2015, 06:33 PM
$3600.00 but the front windshield had to be replaced due to a rock chip at the top seal area. My insurance covered the windshield cost so the cost to me was less than $3600.00.

I no longer have the receipt it seems.

bugsyc
09-14-2015, 07:08 AM
I just had my MM repainted...The clearcoat on the roof was peeling,and the hood which had been repainted after an accident had a crack in the paint....I had the entire car repainted....The hood and roof were taken down to bare metal...The rest was roughed up,clear taken down to paint and sanded....I didn't like the way it came out...Brought it back and the body shop agreed and redid the whole car....Looks great...

Now to my point of interest....I was told not to wax it for atleast 6 weeks.2 weeks until washing and covering..Paint needs time to degas....Were you given the same instructions???? I don't have room in my garage so,it's parked in my driveway where rain creates water spots and of course the dreaded bird droppins...So,I go out every day and wipe her down ...

I just passed the the 2 week time and washed her and put the cover on....I'll compound,polish and wax after 6 weeks...BTW....I had the trunk emblem removed(shaved) and they painted the taillights and backup lights in the s55 style...

crownvic05
09-14-2015, 07:23 AM
I had my whole car painted for 1000 bucks. Its good to have family members(father-in-law) in the bussiness.

I did do most of the prep. I also did the cut and buff with 1500 and 2000 grit then used mequirs compound and polish. Excellent results.

heres the car wet sanded
http://i457.photobucket.com/albums/qq295/isatisfy2003/IMG-20130302-000181_zps28a94098.jpg (http://s457.photobucket.com/user/isatisfy2003/media/IMG-20130302-000181_zps28a94098.jpg.html)

in the process of compounding:
http://i457.photobucket.com/albums/qq295/isatisfy2003/IMG-20130302-000211_zps1a1e4c40.jpg (http://s457.photobucket.com/user/isatisfy2003/media/IMG-20130302-000211_zps1a1e4c40.jpg.html)

Finished results:
http://i457.photobucket.com/albums/qq295/isatisfy2003/IMG-20130103-011571.jpg (http://s457.photobucket.com/user/isatisfy2003/media/IMG-20130103-011571.jpg.html)
http://i457.photobucket.com/albums/qq295/isatisfy2003/IMG-20130302-000221_zps0e473eb5.jpg (http://s457.photobucket.com/user/isatisfy2003/media/IMG-20130302-000221_zps0e473eb5.jpg.html)
http://i457.photobucket.com/albums/qq295/isatisfy2003/IMG_0503_zpsfa728c44.jpg (http://s457.photobucket.com/user/isatisfy2003/media/IMG_0503_zpsfa728c44.jpg.html)
http://i457.photobucket.com/albums/qq295/isatisfy2003/IMG_0497_zpsb1ffec39.jpg (http://s457.photobucket.com/user/isatisfy2003/media/IMG_0497_zpsb1ffec39.jpg.html)

crownvic05
09-14-2015, 07:28 AM
This is my brother in laws vic. Was also preped by me, painted by my father in law and cut and buffed by me.

ready for paint:
http://i457.photobucket.com/albums/qq295/isatisfy2003/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140525_133910_zps40a8b26 a.jpg (http://s457.photobucket.com/user/isatisfy2003/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140525_133910_zps40a8b26 a.jpg.html)
http://i457.photobucket.com/albums/qq295/isatisfy2003/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140525_133910_zps40a8b26 a.jpg (http://s457.photobucket.com/user/isatisfy2003/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140525_133910_zps40a8b26 a.jpg.html)

sprayed:
http://i457.photobucket.com/albums/qq295/isatisfy2003/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140525_174552_zpsd69b382 3.jpg (http://s457.photobucket.com/user/isatisfy2003/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140525_174552_zpsd69b382 3.jpg.html)
http://i457.photobucket.com/albums/qq295/isatisfy2003/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140525_174538_zps6c53e49 e.jpg (http://s457.photobucket.com/user/isatisfy2003/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140525_174538_zps6c53e49 e.jpg.html)

cut and buffed:
You can see the difference on that quarter panel and the rear door. Rear door has not been cut nor buffed.
http://i457.photobucket.com/albums/qq295/isatisfy2003/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140608_192421_zpsb00565f e.jpg (http://s457.photobucket.com/user/isatisfy2003/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140608_192421_zpsb00565f e.jpg.html)
http://i457.photobucket.com/albums/qq295/isatisfy2003/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140608_192516_zpscbea7aa 1.jpg (http://s457.photobucket.com/user/isatisfy2003/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140608_192516_zpscbea7aa 1.jpg.html)
http://i457.photobucket.com/albums/qq295/isatisfy2003/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140608_192433_zpsaddea70 d.jpg (http://s457.photobucket.com/user/isatisfy2003/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140608_192433_zpsaddea70 d.jpg.html)

2,4shofast
09-14-2015, 10:30 AM
Very nice work, my car came out pretty rough after it was painted too bad you didn't live closer! I eventually got it buffed out pretty well by vortech347 and I can't believe I waited so long.

Pat if it isn't something you have done before I would personally take it to a good body shop and let them cut and buff it for you.

Pat
09-14-2015, 08:33 PM
^^I think your right. I found a shop that may fill the bill. It's the Mazda dealership, talking to several people in the body/paint business all have a high opinion of the tech's that work there.

Pat