Short Block for Eaton Swap

[Bad_S55]

After getting my hands on an almost new M122 with the plenum & throttle body for $250, I decided it was time to start prepping an engine.

It will most likely come up, so my top end set up will be the M122 with the extended pulley hub, stock GT500 TB, Cobra lower manifold (this will be fun to find), & a Cobra intercooler. Heads will be stock Marauder, although I'm still undecided on cams. I'd like to stick with factory performance as much as I can, so either B, Cobra/GT500, or Ford GT/'13-'14 GT500 cams. I need to do more research for that.

I've had a couple ideas in mind for a suitable short block. The only real requirements I have is that it could handle 10-12 lbs of boost & will live happily as a three season daily driver. One I had in mind would be Ford's M-6010-BOSS50 big bore iron block. Stock stroke Cobra crank with Manley H-beam rods, & DSS racing 94mm pistons with a high 8:1 or very low 9:1 compression ratio. My theory behind that was by unshrouding the valves, it would allow for slightly higher RPMs, but I'm just a kid who's still learning.

The other one I had in mind would be a regular, rebuilt block with a .020" overbore, and a Coast High stroker kit (3.750") with, again, high 8:1-low 9:1 compression..

Thank you in advance to anyone who helps me with this. Like I said before, I'm just a kid trying to learn the ropes of a supercharged engine.

[Seneca]

After getting my hands on an almost new M122 with the plenum & throttle body for $250, I decided it was time to start prepping an engine.

It will most likely come up, so my top end set up will be the M122 with the extended pulley hub, stock GT500 TB, Cobra lower manifold (this will be fun to find), & a Cobra intercooler. Heads will be stock Marauder, although I'm still undecided on cams. I'd like to stick with factory performance as much as I can, so either B, Cobra/GT500, or Ford GT/'13-'14 GT500 cams. I need to do more research for that.

I've had a couple ideas in mind for a suitable short block. The only real requirements I have is that it could handle 10-12 lbs of boost & will live happily as a three season daily driver. One I had in mind would be Ford's M-6010-BOSS50 big bore iron block. Stock stroke Cobra crank with Manley H-beam rods, & DSS racing 94mm pistons with a high 8:1 or very low 9:1 compression ratio. My theory behind that was by unshrouding the valves, it would allow for slightly higher RPMs, but I'm just a kid who's still learning.

The other one I had in mind would be a regular, rebuilt block with a .020" overbore, and a Coast High stroker kit (3.750") with, again, high 8:1-low 9:1 compression..

Thank you in advance to anyone who helps me with this. Like I said before, I'm just a kid trying to learn the ropes of a supercharged engine.

If its only 12 psi you seek there's a running 120 k mile cobra long block on facebook forums maryland west Virginia mustang parts for sale it's 1000 dollars freshen it up n done!

[chief455]

Spend your money on a forged shortblock and getting your blower installed and tuned.
Stick with stock heads, cams etc for simplicity, cost, and really no power gains at the boost you desire with additional internal mods. The Cobra motors can make toward 700rwhp (in a Cobra) with stock internals with only added boost.
A fresh Cobra short block, or similar, would be plenty. Or your engine, rebuld with forged crank/rods/pistons and put right back into the car. Simple that way.

[Bad_S55]

If its only 12 psi you seek there's a running 120 k mile cobra long block on facebook forums maryland west Virginia mustang parts for sale it's 1000 dollars freshen it up n done!

I figured 12 was on the high end of what was really possible for an Eaton blower. But could you send the link for that engine? Might be worth taking a roadtrip.


Spend your money on a forged shortblock and getting your blower installed and tuned.
Stick with stock heads, cams etc for simplicity, cost, and really no power gains at the boost you desire with additional internal mods. The Cobra motors can make toward 700rwhp (in a Cobra) with stock internals with only added boost.
A fresh Cobra short block, or similar, would be plenty. Or your engine, rebuld with forged crank/rods/pistons and put right back into the car. Simple that way.

What I was hoping for was about 550 at the crank, although that sounds somewhat unreasonable now that I think of it. Stock heads are what I planned on using, and the hottest factory cams I could get for cheap.

[Logizyme]

Honestly number wise your talking about just past the limits of a stock engine.

Take a stock Marauder engine and put 9psi at it and you can make a very reliable 390-410 RWHP setup, which if you want to compare that to a factory rating of a car is in the mid-high 400's.

Most stock coyote's only dyno 350-380 RWHP despite their 412-444 rated power.

Also getting past the 450 RWHP mark means that most of the factory systems cannot be maintained. For example its easy and reliable to install a performance fuel pump, bigger filter, and upgraded FPDM that can support your <450RWHP all day long, where as >450RWHP you need to start considering removing the returnless fuel system and overhauling the fuel system with a return setup, meaning far more custom work - and costs.

Now if you insist on building a bottom end that's fine, an important thing to remember is that dropping your compression ratio will definitely make the bottom end happier when accepting boost, but then you will require boost to make any power, The Eaton's efficiency starts to drop pretty fast over 15psi, but I've heard of 18psi being achieved. If your bottom end is forged to handle the power there is nothing wrong with a higher CR and a good amount of boost. Your going to make the same power running 13PSI into an 8.0:1 engine as you would 9PSI into a 10.1:1 engine. So if your engine is built to handle 700RWHP then run a 9.0 or 9.5 CR and run a solid amount of boost to get where you want to.

There are so many other things than need to be considered. I will suggest you do it one of two ways, go with a standard eaton install on a stock marauder-type engine, or if you are going to build a bottom end, start off mild and work your way up to wild, if you get a stock "eaton swap" complete, there are plenty of quick and easy ways to upgrade when your bottom end can handle it.

[chief455]

I figured 12 was on the high end of what was really possible for an Eaton blower. But could you send the link for that engine? Might be worth taking a roadtrip.



What I was hoping for was about 550 at the crank, although that sounds somewhat unreasonable now that I think of it. Stock heads are what I planned on using, and the hottest factory cams I could get for cheap.
I bought a low mile, mint Cobra long block, after looking at many advertised short blocks, that I could not fully trust to just bolt on heads and run, I'd want to rebuild anyway.
I've read nothing pointing toward 'hotter' factory cams that actually work in the heavy car/automatic combination.
Some take the time to degree in 98 Cobra intake cams for a slight increase in duration.
They were in my motor pre Eaton swap, and I did not dyno any more than a stock motor, so I'd just run stock cams at the power level, and street use you want.
If I had a do over, I'd try and find a core Marauder long block and have my engine guy do his thing with a forged rotating assembly.

[Turbov6Bryan]

I bought a low mile, mint Cobra long block, after looking at many advertised short blocks, that I could not fully trust to just bolt on heads and run, I'd want to rebuild anyway.
I've read nothing pointing toward 'hotter' factory cams that actually work in the heavy car/automatic combination.
Some take the time to degree in 98 Cobra intake cams for a slight increase in duration.
They were in my motor pre Eaton swap, and I did not dyno any more than a stock motor, so I'd just run stock cams at the power level, and street use you want.
If I had a do over, I'd try and find a core Marauder long block and have my engine guy do his thing with a forged rotating assembly.

Cheif-
Wouldn't you be afraid of building a stock marauder block? Just seems too easy to find the limit of the marauder block. Wouldn't you build a texsid block instead? That or a 2v iron block with our heads on it would be stronger right?

Isn't the cobra block just a standard truck block?
There's a 6 bolt Kellogg crank here and cobra rods for 600.00. It would be nice to buy that 6 bolt forged crank instead of the 8 bolt, add new pistons and someone's got a good start on a new setup
Take it easy

[chief455]

Cheif-
Wouldn't you be afraid of building a stock marauder block? Just seems too easy to find the limit of the marauder block. Wouldn't you build a texsid block instead? That or a 2v iron block with our heads on it would be stronger right?

Isn't the cobra block just a standard truck block?
There's a 6 bolt Kellogg crank here and cobra rods for 600.00. It would be nice to buy that 6 bolt forged crank instead of the 8 bolt, add new pistons and someone's got a good start on a new setup
Take it easy
I think, and from reading others experience, the Marauder block is suitable for up to ~500 rwhp. It's not spinning at excessive rpm, and if built and tuned correctly, why would it blow apart?
Again, reading only - as I have no personal experience blowing up a modular motor, or boosting one past the ~10psi I'm at - the svt and other forums point toward the Teksid as being stonger, and yes, cast iron blocks - if you don't mind the weight difference. Seems an Aluminator block would be best - but at a cost.
Backyard building on a budget - forged internal Marauder, or rebuilt Cobra. Easy to find, easy on the wallet, able to handle most street boosted applications.

I do not know of this 6 bolt crank you mention, sounds good, just allows retaining the stock bolt pattern flexplate.
I prefer a stronger flex plate anyway, so purchased an 8 bolt SFI plate for use with the Cobra 8 bolt cranks.

Many ways to skin this cat, builder really needs to have the budget, power and intended use goals set before building - and not stray later.

[Turbov6Bryan]

Seems like I might be buying this book and do some reading

http://www.mre-books.com/sa82/sa82_1.html

:)

[chief455]

Seems like I might be buying this book and do some reading

http://www.mre-books.com/sa82/sa82_1.html

:)
:beer: old school = read, research, read tech on other guys builds, then build your own

that page you linked has good block info ...

[Turbov6Bryan]

I know! Somehow I just found it when I typed in teksid alloy block

Good read

[chief455]

I know! Somehow I just found it when I typed in teksid alloy block

Good read

more related info:
http://www.terminator-cobra.com/castings.htm (http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_144245477018110&key=b117ca3a3dae5cb1f2217d057f 4297a3&libId=ienkbi3601000bdy000DA9vc 8al4q&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.svtperfor mance.com%2Fforums%2Fprivate.p hp%3Fdo%3Dshowpm%26pmid%3D7924 346&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fapicdn.viglin k.com%2Fapi%2Fclick%3Fformat%3 Dgo%26key%3Db117ca3a3dae5cb1f2 217d057f4297a3%26loc%3Dhttp%25 3A%252F%252Fwww.svtperformance .com%252Fforums%252Fprivate.ph p%253Fdo%253Dshowpm%2526pmid%2 53D7924346%26out%3Dhttp%253A%2 52F%252Fwww.terminator-cobra.com%252Fcastings.htm%26r ef%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.sv tperformance.com%252Fforums%25 2Fprivate.php%253Ffolderid%253 D0%2526pp%253D20%2526sort%253D date%2526page%253D4&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.svtperfor mance.com%2Fforums%2Fprivate.p hp%3Ffolderid%3D0%26pp%3D20%26 sort%3Ddate%26page%3D4&title=Re%3A%20Heads%20and%20bl ocks%20-%20SVTPerformance&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.terminato r-cobra.com%2Fcastings.htm)

[SteelQualityMan]

I noticed that the OP said he had an Eaton M122, not an M112. Was this a typo? I thought that the M122 was the GT500 blower that requires a special adapter plate to fit our cars. Just sayin' 😎

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

[chief455]

I noticed that the OP said he had an Eaton M122, not an M112. Was this a typo? I thought that the M122 was the GT500 blower that requires a special adapter plate to fit our cars. Just sayin' 😎

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

No typo. Incredible price he paid too!
He seems pretty aware of the components required for the blower install. Should make nice power with 'factory' boost :cool:

[Bad_S55]

I noticed that the OP said he had an Eaton M122, not an M112. Was this a typo? I thought that the M122 was the GT500 blower that requires a special adapter plate to fit our cars. Just sayin' 😎
Nope, M122 is right!
http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss216/bad_S55/Mobile%20Uploads/20150830_150517_zpswd44kl2n.jp g (http://s577.photobucket.com/user/bad_S55/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150830_150517_zpswd44kl2n.jp g.html)
The Cobra Engineering adapter plate sucks price wise, but I can't get around that. It also needs an extended pulley hub.


No typo. Incredible price he paid too!
He seems pretty aware of the components required for the blower install. Should make nice power with 'factory' boost :cool:

Factory stuff rules! People always overlook it. I have just about everything planned out, but I'm still shaky on different pulley sizes & how they work together to create different levels of boost. I only knew about different size uppers, not lowers too.

[SteelQualityMan]

Good luck with your project. It sounds awesome! 😈

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

[Zack]

Stock heads with a valve job.
Diamond Pistons with coated tops 9.2:1 Compression
New H Beam Rods
Stock Crank

This will support gobs of power

[Ourobos]

Isn't the stock crank cast? Why not spend $300 and get a 4340 Cobra piece?

Also, with that M122, you're looking at a lot more work for a little gain to get it to fit with 03/04 Cobra parts.

[Bad_S55]

Isn't the stock crank cast? Why not spend $300 and get a 4340 Cobra piece?

Also, with that M122, you're looking at a lot more work for a little gain to get it to fit with 03/04 Cobra parts.

They are, but are actually pretty strong for being cast. I've never actually heard of one breaking. I would pay $200 for a Cobra one though just because it's cheap & local.

It's not actually the most difficult thing in the world for me. You're also got to remember, this is a 2005 Grand Marquis, not a Marauder. I have drive by wire from the factory, and can therefor use the stock GT500 throttle body. Aside from modifying a COT, adding the adapter plate & extended pulley hub, it's pretty much the same as an M112 swap.

[montazch]

I agree with Zack. You'll have plenty of power.

[Ourobos]

That expensive ass adapter plate is what I had in mind.. If you've got that already in the budget, rock on

[SteelQualityMan]

You know Steigmaier (sp) advertises a modified MP112 where he somehow manages to cram a set of MP122 internals inside. He can also do some kind of overdrive deal he calls "snakebite" gears as an additional upgrade. You could save a bunch on the adapter plate, have what looks like a stock MP112, and blow unsuspecting guys into the weeds!! Can I get a hoo-ah? 🙊🙈🙉 Can anyone spell s-l-e-e-p-e-r?

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

[Ourobos]

Yeah for that price get a Whipple

[chief455]

Yeah for that price get a Whipple
^this......

[drac]

Hey OP... I have actually done this almost same exact swap in my car. If you have any questions, PM me. It isn't really hard at all. :) The adapter plate seems to be the most expensive part... Save for heads (since you need to buy 4V heads for this) James at Cobra Engineering can mill your blower for you so it is perfect, and also will install your extended pulley hub at the same time as well as removing the 2 vacuum ports on the elbow that are no longer needed. So when you get your M122 back, it is ready to rock and roll