View Full Version : Battery drain
Finally
09-19-2015, 12:21 PM
Maybe 6 weeks ago I went out to start the Marauder and stone dead,I put the tester on it and it said the battery was toast so I went to Ford and got a new one.
The car has been sitting for about 3 weeks and I went out to start her up and stone dead again,It must have a draw coming from somewhere but not even sure where to start looking with this issue.
Where would you guys start with an issue like this,yea yea I know drive it more "lol" she does get neglected in the drive it regular department.
Thanks
Tony
RubberCtyRauder
09-19-2015, 01:18 PM
I have the same situation. There is aftermarket stereo stuff in my car installed prior to me. I have not looked into it either. Plan on taking a good voltmeter and check battery volts and one by one pull a fuse to see if anyone changes the draw.
jerrym3
09-19-2015, 02:04 PM
I had the same problem with my wife's Lincoln LS.
It was the AC Control Head.
Took months for Ford to find one for an LS.
Comin' in Hot
09-19-2015, 02:50 PM
I would start by doing an amp draw test. One of the best tools I have is an ESI fuse buddy tester, it well you if there are any amps drawn on a certain circuit and helps you narrow down the problem circuit.
You could buy them on Amazon, I have one for mini and micro fuses.
http://www.esitest.com/305-306.html
fastblackmerc
09-19-2015, 04:11 PM
See post #12.
Finally
09-19-2015, 04:35 PM
Disconnect the negative battery terminal, connect a test light between negative battery post and the terminal. The test light should be on. Remove each fuse one at a time until the light goes out. That circuit will be the one with the draw.
And the terminal ?
Spectragod
09-19-2015, 06:14 PM
Disconnect the negative battery terminal, connect a test light between negative battery post and the terminal. The test light should be on. Remove each fuse one at a time until the light goes out. That circuit will be the one with the draw.
The test light will never go off, there is always draw as there are components that run continually, I would have to pull a service manual out, but IIRC, 300-400mA is normal, i.e., the light will always glow.
It is always better to use a meter, whether it be analog or a DVOM, use a shunt between the battery and cable with the meter hooked in between, once in that state, start pulling fuses and/or unplugging modules.
Normal modules that I have seen fail and cause draw..... LCM, radio, PCM once or twice, I have also seen stuck trunk lights, hood lights, and glove box lights. Your mileage may vary, first you will need to determine the amount of draw that you have, and then isolate the location.
Turbov6Bryan
09-19-2015, 06:31 PM
The test light will never go off, there is always draw as there are components that run continually, I would have to pull a service manual out, but IIRC, 300-400mA is normal, i.e., the light will always glow.
It is always better to use a meter, whether it be analog or a DVOM, use a shunt between the battery and cable with the meter hooked in between, once in that state, start pulling fuses and/or unplugging modules.
Normal modules that I have seen fail and cause draw..... LCM, radio, PCM once or twice, I have also seen stuck trunk lights, hood lights, and glove box lights. Your mileage may vary, first you will need to determine the amount of draw that you have, and then isolate the location.
That's basically what I was going to type, on the regal a you might have more amp draw than 5 ma
Don't forget the alternator or starter, they get dirty enough and will start spilling electrons all over the place
Go through the entire car before you put a meter on it, which electronic part on the car that doesn't work, may be what's eating your voltage.
Finally
09-19-2015, 07:02 PM
That's basically what I was going to type, on the regal a you might have more amp draw than 5 ma
Don't forget the alternator or starter, they get dirty enough and will start spilling electrons all over the place
Go through the entire car before you put a meter on it, which electronic part on the car that doesn't work, may be what's eating your voltage.
Everything works.
martyo
09-19-2015, 07:59 PM
Remember the computers in these cars have "keep alive" power and you will never get to the point of a zero mA draw.
Marauders have been notorious for killing batteries when the cars are left to sit.
Get a Battery Tender, or some other brand, charger and don't look back.
Finally
09-19-2015, 08:53 PM
Remember the computers in these cars have "keep alive" power and you will never get to the point of a zero mA draw.
Marauders have been notorious for killing batteries when the cars are left to sit.
Get a Battery Tender, or some other brand, charger and don't look back.
Thanks Marty,
fastblackmerc
09-21-2015, 10:08 AM
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems?start=3#ParasiticDraw Testing
fastblackmerc
09-21-2015, 10:12 AM
Remember the computers in these cars have "keep alive" power and you will never get to the point of a zero mA draw.
Marauders have been notorious for killing batteries when the cars are left to sit.
Get a Battery Tender, or some other brand, charger and don't look back.
Since my MM is retired from being a DD, I use a Battery Tender that is permanently connected to the battery.
2,4shofast
09-21-2015, 11:58 AM
Since my MM is retired from being a DD, I use a Battery Tender that is permanently connected to the battery.
I have to do this as well, I have tried many times to find the culprit but in the end a battery tender was the best route after replacing 3 batteries at $200+ each.:mad2:
tbone
09-21-2015, 01:01 PM
Blinky light on dash = anti theft = battery draw.
sailsmen
09-21-2015, 02:00 PM
I bought a new battery and it kept losing 40% over nite.
I tried with the alarm off and still 40% loss.
I checked it with an amp meter and it was nominal draw.
They exchanged the battery and so far so good.
You can also check many fuses with a volt meter to see if there is draw. The top of the fuse has metal on each side.
loud2004marquis
09-21-2015, 02:01 PM
Since my MM is retired from being a DD, I use a Battery Tender that is permanently connected to the battery.
I have to do this as well, I have tried many times to find the culprit but in the end a battery tender was the best route after replacing 3 batteries at $200+ each.:mad2:
Blinky light on dash = anti theft = battery draw.
^^^What they all said^^^
+1 on the battery tender!
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