9" axle parts, soon to be Marauder axle

[lifespeed]

Here are some Ford 9" axle parts soon to be the base of a torque arm rear suspension in the Marauder. The fabricator has the parts and an example (bracket donor?) Panther axle to work from. It might not be much more than a month before I'm driving a smooth, quiet car with precise yet comfortable rear suspension.

Strange HD pro aluminum studded differential case with oversize pinion bearings (plural, the 9" has bearings on each end of the pinion), Trac-loc T1 carrier and aluminum driveshaft yoke.
http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_1206.jpg

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_1210.jpg

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_1212.jpg

Speedway Engineering Grand National axle housing, aluminum hubs, steel axle drive plates, aluminum rotor adapters, inner axle seals and bearings. Gun-drilled axle shafts aren't shown.
http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_1214_labeled.jpg

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_1215.jpg

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_1216.jpg

Look at those bearings!!! :bows: Proper tapered rollers with adjustable preload. Just like the good old days, but larger. They'll never need replacing.
http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_1218.jpg

A custom version of the Maximum Motorsports torque arm (http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM-Torque-arm-1979-04-Mustang-88-axle-Standard-Duty-P225.aspx) will be mounted underneath the housing. The bolt-on 8.8" axle brackets are replaced by something neater and welded.

A splined, hollow sway bar (http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Adjustable-Rear-Swaybar-weld-in-kit-choose-bar-size-P545.aspx) will also be employed. I'll be reducing the rear sway bar rate slightly from the Addco 1-1/8" X 0.25" wall tubular rear bar cancel slight oversteer, although I think the Metco urethane bushings in roll bind are partly responsible for this issue.

[lifespeed]

Here is a thread (http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1464230#post1 46) about wheel widths and offsets that resulted in the axle width 3/4" narrower than stock, with 40mm offset 20 X 8.5" wheels widened to 10". See the first post in the thread for wheel photos.

I have changed my mind on keeping the air ride. I'm going to switch to coil springs as they are the only way to get a linear rate. I will employ an air bag overload for towing and heavy loads, but they'll only have 2 - 3 psi in them when not needed. I'm not sure if this can remain automated or will be manual with a gauge. It might be all I can use from the factory system is the lines and solenoids.

[MOTOWN]

Looking forward to seeing this come together, a little skeptical of gun drilled axles on a street car.

[lifespeed]

Looking forward to seeing this come together, a little skeptical of gun drilled axles on a street car.

They don't carry the weight of the car in a floater. It is the default configuration for most all race cars and they seem to be reliable.

[FordNut]

Beautiful!

[chief455]

Beautiful!
really, having had several torque arm GM F-body cars, I rather enjoy the u/l control arm/watts link.
No suspension theory experience, have no idea what you are going for.
I'm sure it will drive awesome, and those are some beautiful parts.
I've run forged, 31 spline gun drilled axles on the street before for 2 summers and no issues.

[lifespeed]

really, having had several torque arm GM F-body cars, I rather enjoy the u/l control arm/watts link.

Let's not paint torque arm suspension with the broad brush of GM F-bodies :D

The trouble with 4-link is it needs the rubber bushings to deform in roll, it has inherent bind. Think about the side view of the control arm axle bushings moving through two different arcs. No problem when both sides compress equally, but in roll they try to twist the whole axle housing. Instead the bushings deform. Then I put in Metco control arms and Watts links. Solves some problems, creates others. Snap oversteer is an issue. It isn't really serious, but that kind of unpredictability at the edge isn't a good thing. And it degrades ride quality, kind of like having a larger, inconsistent sway bar. Don't get me wrong, the Metco stuff is decent and I'll likely keep their Watt's link.

The two types of live axle suspension with minimal roll bind are three link and torque arm. And three link puts the third link in between the two back seat passengers. So the realities of a passenger car dictate torque arm suspension. It's not a done deal yet, hopefully no major surprises.

Edit: Here is a link (http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?p=497564#post4 97564) on the different characteristics of rear suspension designs.

[chief455]

very interesting stuff! Hopefully the effort has positive results. It sure is a sweet 9" rear :)

I modified all my GM torque arm cars with adjustable lower control arms, torque arm and panhard rods with greased bushings. It greatly improved the feel over stock parts and allowed easy pinion angle adjustment and centering of the tires to the body after ride height changes. Combined with larger sway bars, those cars really handle!
That said, with just aftermarket control arms, sway bars and improved shocks/struts - the Panther is amazing to me for it's size and weight.
I think you'll be pleased either way.
Cool idea to try.

[lifespeed]

What part # U-joint is in the pinion flange of the Marauder driveshaft? I have to match a 1350 U-joint cup in the 9" yoke. Maybe the slightly longer third member and the removal of the Marauder pinion flange will match up perfectly in overall length and let me re-use the stock driveshaft. :rolleyes:

High speed vibration will probably force me into a better driveshaft eventually, but I wouldn't mind at least trying the stocker with an axle with good bearings.

Edit: Rock Auto seems to reference both 1330 and 1350 U-joints, not sure which it is.

[chief455]

Mine are both 1330, front and rear

[justbob]

What part # U-joint is in the pinion flange of the Marauder driveshaft? I have to match a 1350 U-joint cup in the 9" yoke. Maybe the slightly longer third member and the removal of the Marauder pinion flange will match up perfectly in overall length and let me re-use the stock driveshaft. :rolleyes:

High speed vibration will probably force me into a better driveshaft eventually, but I wouldn't mind at least trying the stocker with an axle with good bearings.

Edit: Rock Auto seems to reference both 1330 and 1350 U-joints, not sure which it is.


Stock is 1330 which is easily available in 9" yokes. IIRC they make a short and a long so that might help you. Not sure if your going to find anything but old school U bolts but that worked fine for decades..

My personal favorites for driveline parts is The Driveshaft Shop and Yukon gear. I split a Spicer front yoke clean in half..


Builder Of Badassery

[lifespeed]

Stock is 1330 which is easily available in 9" yokes. IIRC they make a short and a long so that might help you. Not sure if your going to find anything but old school U bolts but that worked fine for decades..

My personal favorites for driveline parts is The Driveshaft Shop and Yukon gear. I split a Spicer front yoke clean in half..

I'm sure they make 1330/1350 adapter U-joints, I used one years ago. I have a Strange aluminum 1350 yoke on the pinion with an extra large retainer and pinion bearing, so I'm committed to their yokes. Shouldn't be an issue, and I don't know what the chances of the stock driveshaft being the correct length are anyway.

[chief455]

I'm sure they make 1330/1350 adapter U-joints, I used one years ago. I have a Strange aluminum 1350 yoke on the pinion with an extra large retainer and pinion bearing, so I'm committed to their yokes. Shouldn't be an issue, and I don't know what the chances of the stock driveshaft being the correct length are anyway.

even a local parts store has always had a 1330/1350 crossover joint. they also have straps for the 7mm? bolts to the billet yoke I had, or old school u bolts for through holes..
Last 9" swap I was surprised how easy this was at the local store.

[justbob]

Boom.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/str-u1647?seid=srese1&gclid=CMeQsbmLt8gCFdgRgQodnMgA lw


Builder Of Badassery

[lifespeed]

I'll check the shaft length before buying that U-joint. And I'll get the billet caps instead of the pedestrian U-bolts as well.

[lifespeed]

Here are some more axle pics. It hasn't been proceeding at a breakneck pace, but is proceeding nonetheless. The machined ABS tone rings should be ready this week, as will the torque arm. Although both upper and lower control arm brackets were cut out, the plan is to just use the lower links and a torque arm. Lower links will be DOM steel tubing and rod ends. I'm looking into Delrin-bushed adjustable, rebuildable joints with (possibly) a dirt seal from Spohn. I'll have to check with the fabricator on this one.

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_20151010_axshaft_side.jpg

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_20151010_axshaft_end.jpg

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_20151010_hub_snout.jpg

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_20151010_axhousng.jpg

[MOTOWN]

Im drooling with anticipation!

[MOTOWN]

Any updates on the progress of the rear end?

[lifespeed]

I just received the 430 stainless for the ABS trigger wheels. Now I have to get it machined, but my machinist goes on vacation in a week. Hopefully he can get at least one finished so I can provide it to the axle fabricator, who must make a brake caliper bracket that will also locate the sensor within about 50 mils of the toothed wheel in order for it to provide a signal.

Retaining the ABS function does not come without some pain and expense. I would like this project to move more quickly, but I want the ABS too. And then there is the pace of the fabrication, which is on hold waiting for this piece.

On the bright side, the widened front wheels and tires should be here in a couple more days.

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_20151026_121522_430_ss_sm. jpg

[lifespeed]

Here is the beginning of a variable reluctance trigger wheel machined from 430, a ferritic stainless which has the highest magnetic permeability of the stainless materials.

The tooling plate is complete with machined reference edges, the tooth pattern is programmed and the 5-hole mounting pattern matches the hub exactly. This pattern matches the rotor "hat" (it is actually a flat ring) to the hub and will also mount the tone ring.

Gotta love CNC equipment. No, it isn't my equipment nor am I the machinist, just happen to know a very sharp engineer. The material is hard to cut, but not as bad as the 3XX series of stainless.

Unfortunately the machinist is leaving on vacation for two weeks so I am stalled out for a while again :(

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_20151027_220604_tone_ring_ 1_sm.jpg

[GreekGod]

Why the bother of machining stainless for the trigger wheel?

==

[lifespeed]

Why the bother of machining stainless for the trigger wheel?

==

I have to machine something magnetically permeable (430 has a relative permeability of 1800 after annealing, so is darn close to steel at 4000), so it isn't going to be easy aluminum ;)

Whatever material the stock trigger wheel is made of doesn't rust (see pic below). I don't want the new piece turning into a rusty hulk over time, especially with the effort invested. It is exposed to the elements.

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_1194_labeled.jpg

[lifespeed]

Here is what is starting to look like a larger version of the OEM ABS tone ring, with a bolt circle that will match the rotor adapter patter on the hub. Next flip it over and final-machine the profile on the bottom half of the roughed-out teeth, remove lots of metal from the inside diameter and finish up the mounting tabs for recessed 5/6"-18 grade 8 socket head cap screws.

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/ABS_ring_half_teeth.jpg

[Blown3.8]

Don't know if you have figured out the rear brakes yet, but looks like explorer brakes and possibly the marauder brakes can be made to fit pretty easily.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?136826-Sloid-axle-on-a-budget!&p=1094439#post1094439

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/9-inch-rear-disc-brake-installation.569272/

[MOTOWN]

Don't know if you have figured out the rear brakes yet, but looks like explorer brakes and possibly the marauder brakes can be made to fit pretty easily.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?136826-Sloid-axle-on-a-budget!&p=1094439#post1094439

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/9-inch-rear-disc-brake-installation.569272/

Those wont work with his setup because he is using a 9" floater rear end, it doesn't have the traditional 9" bearing flanges.

http://1speedway.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=68&product_id=56

[TooManyFords]

Those wont work with his setup because he is using a 9" floater rear end, it doesn't have the traditional 9" bearing flanges.

http://1speedway.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=68&product_id=56Is he going to use an aftermarket rim, because I didn't see 5x4.5 listed as an available bolt circle pattern. DO marauder use 5x5?

[MOTOWN]

Is he going to use an aftermarket rim, because I didn't see 5x4.5 listed as an available bolt circle pattern. DO marauder use 5x5?

He already has a set of 20" wheels so i would assume they will make a custom hub in the Marauder 5X4.5 bolt pattern, my concern is will the hub clear the center cap?

[lifespeed]

Kenny at Speedway machined the 5 on 4.5" pattern for me. It only works with his aluminum hub (not the steel version), so that is what I have.

I did consider switching to a larger bolt pattern on the rear, but decided against it given that the stock pattern could be used. The studs barely intrude into the oil seal area, so this would probably not work with a "wet" axle tube. But why let oil into the axle tubes with this setup? I have seals in the axle tubes by the carrier bearing to keep the oil where it belongs.

The brakes are the standard-issue Wilwood NMDP with a fabricated mount bracket that will also position the ABS sensor.

[GreekGod]

Just say "No" to Explorer rear brakes (for most applications). I looked into using Explorer rear disc brakes. They may be fine for many street applications, but since they are not even vented (they are solid discs), they don't qualify as a performance option. Probably fine as a drag race setup where you only drive 1/4 mile at a time, and only use them once per trip!

I ended up choosing a very nice Wilwood setup from Moser. They sell an Explorer package for $525. They have Wilwood packages starting under $600 with 12.19" vented rotors that will fit inside of 15" wheels. ...
re:
http://www.moserengineering.com/brakes/wilwood-disc-brakes/forged-dynalite-pro-series-rear-brake-kit/big-ford-2-36-offset.html

==

[lifespeed]

Just say "No" to Explorer rear brakes (for most applications).

Correct. Performance brakes, especially for a tank like the Marauder, are fixed-piston calipers. And large.

The tone wheel machining has made clear the limitations of removing hard 430 stainless material with the mill. Off to the waterjet shop to cut out the center.

edit: Here is a photo of the futility of using a mill to hog out material. Waterjet it is.

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_1221_small.jpg

[Gerry24]

Looking forward to this build...

[lifespeed]

Here are the ABS rings after being cut on the waterjet. Too much material to remove with an endmill. I decided to make the thickness of the ring 3/16" instead of 1/8". Although in this picture they are 0.030" oversize because the waterjet isn't as accurate as the mill.

The blank looks like a Russian nesting doll. So much better than days on the mill. Even with them near net shape, it will still be a good 12 - 14 hours of machining to finish off the pair.

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/ABS_ring_IMG_20151216_191621_s m.jpg

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/ABS_ring_IMG_20151216_195120_s m.jpg

[lifespeed]

What a lot of work! The next one should go more quickly now that the mill programming and learning curve have been overcome. I really owe my machinist friend a favor!

This will allow the brake caliper and abs pickup bracket fab and welding to proceed while the second tone ring is fabbed up. Annealing and passivating of the tone rings will probably follow after the axle is installed. Not sure the annealing is strictly necessary to maximize magnetic permeability. I guess the ABS light will tell the tale. Passivating for corrosion resistance is necessary, but cheap and easy. Just mix up a mild nitric acid solution and heat it up to 140F for half an hour. I could probably do it on my kitchen stove, it has a good vent. :D

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_20151222_231727.jpg

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_20151222_231752.jpg

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_20151222_231825.jpg

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_20151222_231847.jpg

[Seneca]

Looking good!! 👍

[justbob]

Dig it.


Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk

[MOTOWN]

Very nice!

[lifespeed]

I delivered the hub assembly with ABS wheel to the fabricator today. The axle housing is looking great! Can't wait to get rid of that howling, vibrating POS that slaps the brake pistons back in their bores every time I go around a corner.

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_20151229_111612.jpg


The spacers under the Watt's links upper attachment points are temporary, just need some shorter bolts.
http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_20151229_111618.jpg

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_20151229_111624.jpg

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_20151229_111633.jpg

http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_20151229_111700.jpg


And here's the brake rotor and adapter next to the second mechanical brake caliper. Gotta have a parking brake. :D
http://www.claybuccellato.com/pictures/Marauder_axle/IMG_20151229_111503.jpg

[FordNut]

That's looking great. I was wondering about the watts link mounting, that looks like a great approach. I had imagined something going under the top 2 center section studs instead of welded to the top of the housing. Beautiful welds.

[lji372]

Beautiful work!

Did you weld a sample axle and do a cut and acid etch to check for porosity and proper penetration? ;)

[MOTOWN]

The fabrication is off the chain! oooooooooooohhhhhhhhhh me likes!

[lifespeed]

Beautiful work!

Did you weld a sample axle and do a cut and acid etch to check for porosity and proper penetration? ;)

Hahaha, you're killing me! But I'm getting good results, the car handles like a race car after the low profile tires and some stiffening of the shocks. Nice ride too.

[lifespeed]

Bad news, this project got sidelined by a blown engine. Can't take the car to the shop for the axle install if it doesn't run. But I will return, better, stronger and with a new engine.