Suspension

[moffettlancaste]

Gentlemen,
My first post. I've owned my MM since, April of 12. It has mostly sat, I've put five thousand miles on the car, it has 79,000 now. I've done all the routine stuff to satisfy myself that every is working is it should. I'm ready to take the next steps to improve performance. First I don't like the way the car sets. This winter I would like to address the suspension front and rear. I've replaced the air compressor and control module. Still I don't like the way it sets or handles. I'm asking advice.

Thanks

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[RubberCtyRauder]

Control arms, watts link , Addco sway bars will all help with handling. What part if the look the way it sits don't you like? Can cut a coil , lower the rear air.

[lifespeed]

A lot depends on how much you have to spend. At 80K miles you could well need worn parts replaced so a full front end rebuild may be in order. I rebuilt mine at 90K when it started to twitch when I hit the brakes.

Addco sway bars are a good start once the slop is removed, I prefer the lighter hollow bars but they cost more (I'll be selling my Addco rear bar in a month, BTW). Install SPC camber adjustment bolts during the front end rebuild. Align to 0 toe and -0.5 degree camber.

The Metco Watts link is big help for the rear tail wag. Metco rear control arms help also, but there will be some increase in suspension bind and decrease in ride quality. Not huge, but be aware.

For shocks the cheap solution is the stiffer version KYB. However, be aware that you can't increase the spring rate with these shocks. And cutting a coil from the front spring increases the rate.

If you have more cash to improve handling Penske (and now a new company called GRI as well) have some excellent shocks that can be valved for your car. This will also allow you to increase the spring rate in the front, which these cars can really use. This is much more expensive, as if all the other stuff wasn't costly enough.

These cars can handle waaaayyyy better than they do from the factory.

[moffettlancaste]

A lot depends on how much you have to spend. At 80K miles you could well need worn parts replaced so a full front end rebuild may be in order. I rebuilt mine at 90K when it started to twitch when I hit the brakes.

Addco sway bars are a good start once the slop is removed, I prefer the lighter hollow bars but they cost more (I'll be selling my Addco rear bar in a month, BTW). Install SPC camber adjustment bolts during the front end rebuild. Align to 0 toe and -0.5 degree camber.

The Metco Watts link is big help for the rear tail wag. Metco rear control arms help also, but there will be some increase in suspension bind and decrease in ride quality. Not huge, but be aware.

For shocks the cheap solution is the stiffer version KYB. However, be aware that you can't increase the spring rate with these shocks. And cutting a coil from the front spring increases the rate.

If you have more cash to improve handling Penske (and now a new company called GRI as well) have some excellent shocks that can be valved for your car. This will also allow you to increase the spring rate in the front, which these cars can really use. This is much more expensive, as if all the other stuff wasn't costly enough.

These cars can handle waaaayyyy better than they do from the factory.
Thanks, the rear was where I plan to start this winter. It's almost winter here in Indiana. The car is covered for the season. I'm sourcing parts now. I have to open a PayPal account to expedite purchasing. The front end I will leave until spring so I can drive the car, and make adjustments. Money, I don't have any to waste, so I will go slow.

Thanks

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[moffettlancaste]

A lot depends on how much you have to spend. At 80K miles you could well need worn parts replaced so a full front end rebuild may be in order. I rebuilt mine at 90K when it started to twitch when I hit the brakes.

Addco sway bars are a good start once the slop is removed, I prefer the lighter hollow bars but they cost more (I'll be selling my Addco rear bar in a month, BTW). Install SPC camber adjustment bolts during the front end rebuild. Align to 0 toe and -0.5 degree camber.

The Metco Watts link is big help for the rear tail wag. Metco rear control arms help also, but there will be some increase in suspension bind and decrease in ride quality. Not huge, but be aware.

For shocks the cheap solution is the stiffer version KYB. However, be aware that you can't increase the spring rate with these shocks. And cutting a coil from the front spring increases the rate.

If you have more cash to improve handling Penske (and now a new company called GRI as well) have some excellent shocks that can be valved for your car. This will also allow you to increase the spring rate in the front, which these cars can really use. This is much more expensive, as if all the other stuff wasn't costly enough.

These cars can handle waaaayyyy better than they do from the factory.
I'm interested in your rear sway bar. What is your asking price? Again I will setup a PayPal account. I will find out how it's done, I think I have to have one to buy or sale.

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[burt ragio]

How would GRI know the proper valving & spring rate for our car ?

[RubberCtyRauder]

Maybe he meant JRi..but I didn't see anything off their shelf designed for ford other than mustang, but they do have the technology to build something I would imagine..but it would be custom.

[lifespeed]

Yes, JRI was started by Penske engineers. It is all custom, just give them an old shock for dimensions and a known working shock dyno plot.

Nothing good off-the-shelf for panthers.

[BAD MERC]

Here is one full cut coil in the front and the rear dropped about an inch. The rear control arm bushing do wear out and aftermarket ones bolt right in.

[MOTOWN]

Yes, JRI was started by Penske engineers. It is all custom, just give them an old shock for dimensions and a known working shock dyno plot.

Nothing good off-the-shelf for panthers.

Thats simply not true , QA1 shocks work extremely well on Marauders, most who had issues also had their cars dropped in the weeds! Stock ride height shocks are not going to work properly on a car 2-3" below spec.

[lifespeed]

Thats simply not true , QA1 shocks work extremely well on Marauders, most who had issues also had their cars dropped in the weeds! Stock ride height shocks are not going to work properly on a car 2-3" below spec.

You can tell them you're going to lower the car, they'll shorten the shock of course.

I have never used QA1. Most who have hated them, lots of posts here about them.

[MOTOWN]

You can tell them you're going to lower the car, they'll shorten the shock of course.

I have never used QA1. Most who have hated them, lots of posts here about them.

I'll admit i was skeptical, i bought a set for the rear , and I can tell they are some of the best shocks you can buy , and are fully rebuildable, I'll be buying a front set from NAKKE, I'll upgrade to a 500lb spring from the standard 450lb spring.

[lifespeed]

I'll admit i was skeptical, i bought a set for the rear , and I can tell they are some of the best shocks you can buy , and are fully rebuildable, I'll be buying a front set from NAKKE, I'll upgrade to a 500lb spring from the standard 450lb spring.

I would consider closer to 600lbs if they can valve it appropriately. You already have stiff enough tires.

[MOTOWN]

I would consider closer to 600lbs if they can valve it appropriately. You already have stiff enough tires.

I asked he said one Marauder owner went with a 550lb spring, and said it rode like a cattle truck, I definitely want a firmer spring rate versus too soft, I'll inquire again before ordering , these will be the 18 position single adjustable shocks.

[lifespeed]

I asked he said one Marauder owner went with a 550lb spring, and said it rode like a cattle truck, I definitely want a firmer spring rate versus too soft, I'll inquire again before ordering , these will be the 18 position single adjustable shocks.

That indicates the shock valving was wrong, no cattle truck ride here. With the coilovers in front l could easily change spring rates using standard parts, but 600lbs feels pretty good.

Edit: l could not imagine shock tuning limited to single adjust, that would be difficult or impossible to get where you want to be.

[MOTOWN]

I've had double adjustable shocks, its overkill for the streets.

[lifespeed]

I've had double adjustable shocks, its overkill for the streets.

Says the guy with 761 RWHP.

If you want to have any chance of getting your spring/shock combo to match you need both adjustments. Non-adjustable compression is only correct for one spring rate, and it is probably not even the spring that comes with the shocks. Too many variables to match, adjustment is needed.

[MOTOWN]

Says the guy with 761 RWHP.

If you want to have any chance of getting your spring/shock combo to match you need both adjustments. Non-adjustable compression is only correct for one spring rate, and it is probably not even the spring that comes with the shocks. Too many variables to match, adjustment is needed.

I have to disagree with you , double adjustable shocks are great if your at race tracks with varying track conditions, but a street car like mines it would serve no purpose.

[Mebot]

I am quite happy with my QA1 single adjustable shocks but then again I'm not annoyed by the contrivance of suspicion parameters

Can't stop the signal...

[lifespeed]

I have to disagree with you , double adjustable shocks are great if your at race tracks with varying track conditions, but a street car like mines it would serve no purpose.

The purpose is not to adjust the shocks for the vagaries of different race courses, but to match the weight of the car, the rate of the spring and the shock damping to a well-controlled system. Then leave it alone.

Think about your cattle truck ride example with springs softer than mine. The setup didn't work, and there was no way to get it right.

But feel free to disagree. I've been through the exercise and achieved good results.

[MOTOWN]

The purpose is not to adjust the shocks for the vagaries of different race courses, but to match the weight of the car, the rate of the spring and the shock damping to a well-controlled system. Then leave it alone.

Think about your cattle truck ride example with springs softer than mine. The setup didn't work, and there was no way to get it right.

But feel free to disagree. I've been through the exercise and achieved good results.

I'm more than happy with my QA1s , and looking forward to the single adjustable front setup , everyone likes their ride a little different.

[chief455]

I hated my Koni double adjustables, but once dialed in, I did get to leave them alone.
Next car I bought Koni single adjustables from a vendor that matched them to my springs = much easier.

[lifespeed]

I hated my Koni double adjustables, but once dialed in, I did get to leave them alone.
Next car I bought Koni single adjustables from a vendor that matched them to my springs = much easier.

When you have a popular car like a Camaro or Mustang it is much easier to get something that has been already figured out and tune. The compression may not have been adjustable, but it was already set for a specific spring, motion ratio and car weight.

That of off-the-shelf component research isn't there for the Marauder. If it was, we'd all be using it. Myself included.

[chief455]

When you have a popular car like a Camaro or Mustang it is much easier to get something that has been already figured out and tune. The compression may not have been adjustable, but it was already set for a specific spring, motion ratio and car weight.

That of off-the-shelf component research isn't there for the Marauder. If it was, we'd all be using it. Myself included.
Agreed x10 :beer:

[Davmarauder93]

Here is one full cut coil in the front and the rear dropped about an inch. The rear control arm bushing do wear out and aftermarket ones bolt right in.
How did you make your rear low???


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[fastblackmerc]

How did you make your rear low???


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Adjust the switch on the Watts link.

[AZN4SER]

Adjust the switch on the Watts link.
How is this done?

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[Mebot]

How is this done?

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There's a bracket with two nuts (one is an 8mm the other is a 6mm, or similar)

Loosen both nuts and slide the lever to adjust the height. I believe towards the driver side lowers and towards the passenger raises

Be careful. One half inch of movement on the adjustment equals several inches in height. I'd also recommend marking your original placement so you can always go back to stock height and/or for reference

Can't stop the signal...

[AZN4SER]

There's a bracket with two nuts (one is an 8mm the other is a 6mm, or similar)

Loosen both nuts and slide the lever to adjust the height. I believe towards the driver side lowers and towards the passenger raises

Be careful. One half inch of movement on the adjustment equals several inches in height. I'd also recommend marking your original placement so you can always go back to stock height and/or for reference

Can't stop the signal...
Sweet. Thank you

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[RubberCtyRauder]

don't worry about he cv sport wording,same as Maraduers

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu92/mdnos/03heightadjustment002_zps7ed2d 8d2.jpg