Tail Shaft & Housing Removal

[Bad_S55]

Well it's almost time to swap in my aluminum driveshaft, but I don't feel like doing the short civ yoke & spacer method. That kind of defeats the purpose of a shorter driveshaft, right? So I need to grab a tail shaft. I have no clue on get it out though. The housing looks easy enough, but what holds the shaft in?

I also came across the Blue Oval Chips tail shaft lube mod. http://www.blueovalchips.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=74
Has anyone used this with success before? Is it even worth it?

Thanks fellas.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Buyer beware at blue oval chips. Owner appears to be MIA. I'm sure the shopping cart still works . Not needed in my opinion, not like we are running high speed constantly

[MOTOWN]

I have one , it's more of a feel good mod! And the trans Xmember has to come out , which is a huge pia!

[Logizyme]

Do your own research regarding which driveshaft setup has the best performance. Regarding your comments I believe that a P71 aluminum with a spacer on civilian tailshaft and housing is a considerable upgrade over steel, also, I would also note that JMOD's Jerry has said he does not care for the extended "long" P71 tailshaft and housing. A shorter shaft is inherently more balanced. Short of building a custom shaft I believe the best setup's go in this order:

Long tailshaft and housing, MMC driveshaft
Long tailshaft and housing, P71 driveshaft
Short tailshaft and housing, MMC driveshaft + spacer
Short tailshaft and housing, P71 driveshaft + spacer
Short tailshaft and housing, Steel driveshaft

I have heard of many using the shorter aluminum shafts on the shorter shafts/housings, but you have limited engagement of both that tailshaft bearing and the slip yoke splines, you can swap just the tailshaft housing and get the proper bearing location for the shorter shaft, but still limited spline engagement, neither setup is something I would suggest. Adding the spacer to the driveshaft at the differential moves the shaft closer to the trans and corrects the spline engagement distance, but puts the driveshaft on a less than ideal angle, but I think that is less of an issue and a more accepted setup.

It should be noted that Marauders have the P71 long tailshaft and housing, and P71 aluminum shaft, but with a harmonic damper on the slip yoke.

The tailshaft housing bearing is only splash lubricated with ATF and wear of the bearing causes play and vibration issues, using a "forced lube" mod the tailshaft bearing is lubricated by force by tapping into the line pressure port, using an external line, and drilling and tapping the tailshaft to force fluid into the bearing to lubricate it. Many companies offer pre-modified tailshafts or a DIY kit. There are also bearing upgrades available which are good on their own or with the forced lube mod.

Regarding the tailshaft(or more correctly; the output shaft) it is removed from the front of the transmission, pretty much the last part of complete disassembly of the transmission, which is why driveshaft spacers exist.

Another good option would be to have a custom driveshaft made that is as long as the steel shafts, in either aluminum, MMC, or carbon fiber.

[Comin' in Hot]

Do your own research regarding which driveshaft setup has the best performance. Regarding your comments I believe that a P71 aluminum with a spacer on civilian tailshaft and housing is a considerable upgrade over steel, also, I would also note that JMOD's Jerry has said he does not care for the extended "long" P71 tailshaft and housing. A shorter shaft is inherently more balanced. Short of building a custom shaft I believe the best setup's go in this order:

Long tailshaft and housing, MMC driveshaft
Long tailshaft and housing, P71 driveshaft
Short tailshaft and housing, MMC driveshaft + spacer
Short tailshaft and housing, P71 driveshaft + spacer
Short tailshaft and housing, Steel driveshaft

I have heard of many using the shorter aluminum shafts on the shorter shafts/housings, but you have limited engagement of both that tailshaft bearing and the slip yoke splines, you can swap just the tailshaft housing and get the proper bearing location for the shorter shaft, but still limited spline engagement, neither setup is something I would suggest. Adding the spacer to the driveshaft at the differential moves the shaft closer to the trans and corrects the spline engagement distance, but puts the driveshaft on a less than ideal angle, but I think that is less of an issue and a more accepted setup.

It should be noted that Marauders have the P71 long tailshaft and housing, and P71 aluminum shaft, but with a harmonic damper on the slip yoke.

The tailshaft housing bearing is only splash lubricated with ATF and wear of the bearing causes play and vibration issues, using a "forced lube" mod the tailshaft bearing is lubricated by force by tapping into the line pressure port, using an external line, and drilling and tapping the tailshaft to force fluid into the bearing to lubricate it. Many companies offer pre-modified tailshafts or a DIY kit. There are also bearing upgrades available which are good on their own or with the forced lube mod.

Regarding the tailshaft(or more correctly; the output shaft) it is removed from the front of the transmission, pretty much the last part of complete disassembly of the transmission, which is why driveshaft spacers exist.

Another good option would be to have a custom driveshaft made that is as long as the steel shafts, in either aluminum, MMC, or carbon fiber.

This is spot on, I had really bad vibrations when I bought my blue marauder. Nobody could figure out what was wrong. I did my research and found that Lentech only uses the short output shaft and tail housing in their transmissions. The car also had Dynotech driveshaft. The problem with the driveshaft was it was 1" too short because it was set up for stock marauder with the longer tail housing and output shaft. My short-term fix was to run a 1 inch spacer, it worked fine and eliminated all vibrations. I did notice there was an issue when the suspension compressed in the rear. I figured out it was due to less than ideal spline contact between the output shaft and the slip yoke, the slip yoke splines slightly twisted in the yoke causing them to bind as it slid on the output shaft (damage done before I installed the spacer). In the end, I bought another Dynotech driveshaft 1 inch longer than the stock marauder driveshaft to solve the problem.