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cer0413
10-08-2015, 02:38 PM
I received my January's 2016 emissions letter in the mail Tuesday and quickly decided to test early just to get it out the way and to my surprise, I failed the rest. Failure came from sub-columns "catalytic converter eff. (not ready) and egr flow (not ready). Searched the forums and found a common method, "return to stock, drive around approximately 50-100 miles (few days) for system reset, and test it again. Well unfortunately, during a 5 mile trip to the hospital to visit my newborn daughter, the cel appeared. Codes are p0136 and p0141. Cleared them but code p0141 returned. So I returned the car back to the Mos 4.10 tune and out of nowhere, the code disappeared after driving it at 40mph for 5 minutes. Can anyone help before I purchase a new tune.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/379267771b28f9fa0ce82f44ceb43e 33.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/345fbc199b483a5903318e2abd3f9a 8e.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/cfb2db1fb87a2e0411484bf8c45082 d2.jpg

03Merc
10-08-2015, 02:40 PM
Take the CEL bulb out.


2004 - MM 1618 - DTR 537

fastblackmerc
10-08-2015, 02:41 PM
Take the CEL bulb out.


2004 - MM 1618 - DTR 537

That only works if they don't check the computer.

justbob
10-08-2015, 02:55 PM
My "guess" would be a bad EGR valve diaphragm or vacuum to the valve itself or the DPFE sensor for the P0136 (drivers rear) and a lazy pass. rear o2 for the P0141




Builder Of Badassery

Zack
10-08-2015, 03:07 PM
Your rear cats are deleted you meathead

Zack
10-08-2015, 03:09 PM
You need to spend the $68 on MIL Eliminators to pass

http://www.lethalperformance.com/upr-96-04-mustang-mil-malfunction-indicator-lamp-eliminators.html?gclid=CIzAmNv xs8gCFZOGaQodo7sHIw

cer0413
10-08-2015, 03:41 PM
Your rear cats are deleted you meathead
lol, I knew that but what about that EGR flow part?

Zack
10-08-2015, 03:50 PM
lol, I knew that but what about that EGR flow part?

I believe you can pass with one monitor not working.
As for the egr, it was probably off in the tuning

BLACKMARAUDER04
10-08-2015, 04:24 PM
I think you will need a new tune to turn your cats back on.

chief455
10-08-2015, 05:17 PM
I believe you can pass with one monitor not working.
As for the egr, it was probably off in the tuning
you will pass with one monitor 'not ready', except the catalyst..get your catalyst monitor 'ready, the 'egr not ready' alone will pass, unless it has the CEL code at time of testing.
you will fail if any monitors read 'not available' = turned off.

Turbov6Bryan
10-08-2015, 06:07 PM
Quick question......

Those 68.00 mil harnesses, on gm it's just a resistor wired inline with the sensor wire. Basically that's what they do for the ford?
Does anyone know the resistance that wire needs to keep the light from coming on?

Thanks

8UWITH6
10-08-2015, 06:11 PM
CJ. I feel for you bro. Emissions suck. Listen to King Meathead Zack. Buy simulators, forget EGR.

justbob
10-08-2015, 06:51 PM
If they were turned off it would say not supported, same with the EGR. Plus one code is lean on the EGR side and the other code is from not heating quick enough.

Mine passed easily with the rear cats removed.


Builder Of Badassery

cer0413
10-08-2015, 07:46 PM
If they were turned off it would say not supported, same with the EGR. Plus one code is lean on the EGR side and the other code is from not heating quick enough.

Mine passed easily with the rear cats removed.


Builder Of Badassery
when was your last testing?

justbob
10-08-2015, 08:37 PM
Right before the change to looking at the monitors being ready now as they didn't used to. But regardless, mine were completed and ready.
As far as I've read, the only change on the "new" emissions is making sure the monitors are turned on and doing their self tests.

Unsupported = turned off

Not ready = that particular system monitor can not complete its test due to a code or pending code. (Also equals a fail for you)

System ready = all monitors have completed their tests and all systems are functioning within their set parameters.

Many guys here have passed without rear cats. There would be countless threads on codes set due to deleting them. Are your o2's in good health? An old o2 won't ever bounce lean/rich as quickly as a new one.


Builder Of Badassery

Zack
10-08-2015, 08:49 PM
You will never pass with the rear O2's shut off in the tune with no rear cats.
Period

Zack
10-08-2015, 08:51 PM
If you want to make your own stuff to pass, here is the diagram

http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn306/Marauder-Z/Marauder%20Repairs/398EC300-6562-4082-B5DC-24CEBBBC3025_zps2efzd1rw.jpg (http://s307.photobucket.com/user/Marauder-Z/media/Marauder%20Repairs/398EC300-6562-4082-B5DC-24CEBBBC3025_zps2efzd1rw.jpg.h tml)

chief455
10-08-2015, 08:55 PM
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/cfb2db1fb87a2e0411484bf8c45082 d2.jpg
see the test results above
'unsupported' are things the specific vehicle ECM will not report to the OBD port, thus will pass testing.
'not available' is what my scan tool reads when a monitor is turned off = fail.
'not ready' monitor is turned on, and must be ready in order to pass, except 2004, which allowed one not ready monitor (EXCEPT the catalyst monitor)

I passed with 11 monitor readings like you have.
3 = 'not supported' (like the above test) 7 'ready', 1 'not ready' (EVAP monitor)

like justbob and Zack say - O2 sensors on and working? if not MIL eliminators on the downstreams might do the trick. you must get the catalytic convertor eff in your test to be 'ready'.

Logizyme
10-08-2015, 11:42 PM
Both codes indicate the PCM has detected there is a problem with the electrical circuits of your B1S2 oxygen sensor. 95% of the time this means you have a bad O2 sensor, 4% of the time this means your O2 sensor is not plugged in(more likely with both codes as you have) and 1% of the time it is the engine wiring harness or PCM.

Buy a new sensor. Install it.

Readiness monitors will also need to be all ready. In your case the catalyst monitor and the EGR monitor are not ready, both of these take the longest to complete after a clear of KAM or codes or battery disconnect and will require more driving to complete. Your current codes will also prevent the catalyst monitor to complete. If you do not have EGR deleted and do not have any EGR codes or EGR turned off in your tune, that readiness monitor should complete. If you have catalytic converters between your front and rear o2's (the front cats) and your rear o2's are turned on on your tune and you repair your current codes with an O2 sensor then your catalytic monitor should complete within a few drive cycles.

cer0413
10-08-2015, 11:45 PM
I appreciate the help from all of you.

Zack
10-09-2015, 04:47 AM
Both codes indicate the PCM has detected there is a problem with the electrical circuits of your B1S2 oxygen sensor. 95% of the time this means you have a bad O2 sensor, 4% of the time this means your O2 sensor is not plugged in(more likely with both codes as you have) and 1% of the time it is the engine wiring harness or PCM.

Buy a new sensor. Install it.


This is why forum members get confused as ****, from **** advice like this.
He doesn't need new sensors.
There are 3 things to check for:
Pay Attention.

1: No rear cats, sensors hooked up and on in the tune. Solution: Re-install cats or MIL eliminators
2: Missing Rear Sensors or sensors not plugged into main harness (from when the rear cats were deleted.) Solution: Get sensors or plug them in and add MIL eliminators.
3: EGR. I don't think your drive cycle was long enough.

fastblackmerc
10-09-2015, 08:17 AM
If they were turned off it would say not supported, same with the EGR. Plus one code is lean on the EGR side and the other code is from not heating quick enough.

Mine passed easily with the rear cats removed.


Builder Of Badassery

Mine has passed N.C. testing with flying colors even after the rear cats removed and new custom Grand Muffler exhaust system installed.

EMAS
10-09-2015, 10:11 AM
This is why forum members get confused as ****, from **** advice like this.
He doesn't need new sensors.
There are 3 things to check for:
Pay Attention.

1: No rear cats, sensors hooked up and on in the tune. Solution: Re-install cats or MIL eliminators
2: Missing Rear Sensors or sensors not plugged into main harness (from when the rear cats were deleted.) Solution: Get sensors or plug them in and add MIL eliminators.
3: EGR. I don't think your drive cycle was long enough.

While it originally didn't pass with a custom tune the codes were set with a stock tune. Since it only set codes for one of the rear sensors that means that at least one of them is there. Probably means that both of them are there.

It certainly is possible that the one with the codes since they are both circuit codes is not plugged in. So making sure it is plugged in and the wiring is intact is the first step. If that checks out fine then the O2 sensor is probably bad and should either be switched with the other side to see if the code follows or it should just be replaced.

The length of the drive cycle is not important what is important is how it is driven. Here is the specific conditions to make the system run the EGR test on demand.

EGR 8. From a stop, accelerate to 72 Km/h (45 MPH) at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Repeat 3 times. Executes the EGR Monitor
If the EVAP conditions are right, fuel level and temp in the correct range, then you can get all the monitors to run it a 20 minute drive or less by following the proper procedure.

The problem of course is finding an area where you can drive in the proper manner.

cer0413
10-09-2015, 01:18 PM
While it originally didn't pass with a custom tune the codes were set with a stock tune. Since it only set codes for one of the rear sensors that means that at least one of them is there. Probably means that both of them are there.

It certainly is possible that the one with the codes since they are both circuit codes is not plugged in. So making sure it is plugged in and the wiring is intact is the first step. If that checks out fine then the O2 sensor is probably bad and should either be switched with the other side to see if the code follows or it should just be replaced.

The length of the drive cycle is not important what is important is how it is driven. Here is the specific conditions to make the system run the EGR test on demand.

EGR 8. From a stop, accelerate to 72 Km/h (45 MPH) at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Repeat 3 times. Executes the EGR Monitor
If the EVAP conditions are right, fuel level and temp in the correct range, then you can get all the monitors to run it a 20 minute drive or less by following the proper procedure.

The problem of course is finding an area where you can drive in the proper manner.
I am familiar with the drive cycle method but why are the codes thrown while the car is stock but they're no visible codes when the tune is on? My current deliema is, the 4.10 tune was loaded back on the car after I threw the codes and I'm now 150 miles in and there are no more codes.

martyo
10-09-2015, 01:20 PM
I understand the drive cycle method but why are the codes thrown while the car is stock but they're no visible codes when the tune is on? My current deliema is, the 4.10 tune was loaded back on the car after I threw the codes and I'm now 150 miles in and there are no more codes.

Every time you load a tune, it clears the codes and some codes take a while to set. So, think of it this way, when you reload a tune, your drive cycle starts all over again.

justbob
10-09-2015, 06:17 PM
I am familiar with the drive cycle method but why are the codes thrown while the car is stock but they're no visible codes when the tune is on? My current deliema is, the 4.10 tune was loaded back on the car after I threw the codes and I'm now 150 miles in and there are no more codes.


That's because Marty probably has the rears turned off. If off then no codes.

Go back and read my first post bud.


Builder Of Badassery

Logizyme
10-09-2015, 08:20 PM
What it sounds like is you have an O2 sensor (B1S2) that has failed, is unplugged, or is not present. Your tune has the PCM set to not set faults if this is the case(which will also mean you will fail emissions) when you returned to stock tune, the PCM set fault codes due to the failed, missing or unplugged sensor. A simple diagnostic would be to simple swap the rear O2 sensors from side to side, clear codes and drive until the fault sets again, when the fault follows the sensor to B2S2 you will have confirmed the sensor is the casual part.


This is why forum members get confused as ****, from **** advice like this.
He doesn't need new sensors.
There are 3 things to check for:
Pay Attention.

1: No rear cats, sensors hooked up and on in the tune. Solution: Re-install cats or MIL eliminators
2: Missing Rear Sensors or sensors not plugged into main harness (from when the rear cats were deleted.) Solution: Get sensors or plug them in and add MIL eliminators.
3: EGR. I don't think your drive cycle was long enough.

The rear cats are not monitored at all. Even if the front monitored cats were missing, it would still not set a circuit code. If the rear sensors are missing or not plugged in at all it would explain his current codes, but since it's only one side's rear sensor that is setting codes, it would only be that one that is missing/not plugged in, or more likely has failed. MIL eliminators are not going to fix a heater circuit code, EVER. I agree with you analysis of the EGR status, since no codes are present, the lack of readiness is likely just not enough drive cycles completed.

cer0413
10-09-2015, 11:48 PM
My "guess" would be a bad EGR valve diaphragm or vacuum to the valve itself or the DPFE sensor for the P0136 (drivers rear) and a lazy pass. rear o2 for the P0141




Builder Of Badassery
my bad JB.

Marauderjack
10-10-2015, 02:59 AM
I have a working EGR Valve and the 2 front (upstream) O2 sensors I'll send ya for the postage!!:beer:

I replaced them searching for a fix for a P0174 code and it ended up being the damn oil catch can leaking air!!:mad2::argue:

Let me know and I'll get 'em ready if you wish!!:D

cer0413
01-14-2016, 03:12 PM
Every time you load a tune, it clears the codes and some codes take a while to set. So, think of it this way, when you reload a tune, your drive cycle starts all over again.
Should I reload the stock tune back in with the mil eliminators or leave the tune on?

fastblackmerc
01-15-2016, 09:16 AM
Every time you load a tune, it clears the codes and some codes take a while to set. So, think of it this way, when you reload a tune, your drive cycle starts all over again.

Here is the Ford drive cycle instructions:

http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html