S/C fitment question

[Mr. Man]

Been thinking about this question for a while and just thought I'd throw it out there. Probably a silly question, but if you never ask :blah::blah::blah:.

For those of us who like the CAI on the DS and the clean look of the Trilogy our choices are basically non-existent anymore unless we find a used Trilogy. I've read over the years that clearance is the main culprit in trying to get a Mustang S/C to fit as they interfere with the rear cowl area. What would be involved in moving the engine and trans as a unit forward and inch or two? There seems to be enough room. A longer drive shaft would be needed. There might be enough play in the exhaust, but if not a wee bit more tubing is an easy fix. The shifter is a cable so no biggie there. Might need to adjust the mounting holes in the transmission support. Biggest obstacle seems to be motor mounts, but as the recent 5.0 swap demonstrated it's feasible.
What am I obviously missing that this isn't an option to get S/Cd?

[Comin' in Hot]

You'd be better doing an Eaton swap with an M122 and a cobra engineering adapter.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Don't need to do anything with adapter which is kind of expensive I hear. Wiper cowl not in way .

[jwibbity]

I though Joker had his own M122 adapter plate??

Havent seen much of him lately though

[chief455]

The engine is located purposely for balance and handling of the car. Moving the weight of the engine trans forward will have a negative impact on this.
In days old, hot rodders would move the engine back, to increase traction/shorten distance of flywheel to drive axles = drag car purposes. Others create mid engine cars to better balance the car for handling over factory, but with adaptation compromises.
moving the weight forward is never a good idea.
driver inlet blower = Whipple.
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u264/jgsxr1/20141109_113136_zpsvtt6nt2n.jp g

[lifespeed]

The engine is located purposely for balance and handling of the car. Moving the weight of the engine trans forward will have a negative impact on this.
In days old, hot rodders would move the engine back, to increase traction/shorten distance of flywheel to drive axles = drag car purposes. Others create mid engine cars to better balance the car for handling over factory, but with adaptation compromises.
moving the weight forward is never a good idea.
driver inlet blower = Whipple.

Agreed, locating your air cleaner is not a good reason to move the engine forward. Moving the battery to the trunk is far simpler, as are other solutions as mentioned.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Geoff, that was not the best pic example. The wiper cowl is clearly buzzed off. Find a pic of Drac's dohc swapped crown Vic with the m122. I'm at work and on phone do can't really do it.

[chief455]

Geoff, that was not the best pic example. The wiper cowl is clearly buzzed off. Find a pic of Drac's dohc swapped crown Vic with the m122. I'm at work and on phone do can't really do it.
Mark - for you :beer:
My point was only we have driver side inlet options, and moving engine forward is a no-no.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/dracaufreu/IMG_4799_zps196ca266.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/dracaufreu/IMG_4801_zpsz5x9mlvm.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/dracaufreu/IMG_4802_zpsw1yqcrop.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/dracaufreu/IMG_4809_zpsbuty5ikl.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/dracaufreu/IMG_4803_zpsgh9rljfq.jpg

[Bad_S55]

I think Drac needed to trim his wiper cowl just a bit. I'm doing a similar M122 swap, although my circumstances are different since I'm keeping the drive by wire.

[justbob]

I solved the EGR issue like five years ago. Pry up the metal ring, rotate the top, re crimp the ring, done. All emissions work once you fab a new EGR tube out of your old.

Seriously, it took an hour to make it fit and function.


Builder Of Badassery

[chief455]

I think Drac needed to trim his wiper cowl just a bit. I'm doing a similar M122 swap, although my circumstances are different since I'm keeping the drive by wire.


I solved the EGR issue like five years ago. Pry up the metal ring, rotate the top, re crimp the ring, done. All emissions work once you fab a new EGR tube out of your old.

Seriously, it took an hour to make it fit and function.


Builder Of Badassery
right, and I don't see the issue with either solution. It gets it done!
Mr. Man - I hope these have cleared up your thoughts....

[Mr. Man]

right, and I don't see the issue with either solution. It gets it done!
Mr. Man - I hope these have cleared up your thoughts....

Looking at the pictures above I see that the S/C just barely fits. It looks to me like the plastic cover piece that covers the wiper arms will either need to be cut or discarded. My only thought on this was how hard would it be to move the engine forward so that many more options might become available.

Not sure how much moving an engine forward an inch or so would affect the weight distribution overall. Probably do more damage to the handling characteristics of the car by cutting coils and that doesn't seem to have deterred anyone.

It was just a thought on the process. I don't have any plans to S/C either of the MM at this time.:)

[chief455]

Looking at the pictures above I see that the S/C just barely fits. It looks to me like the plastic cover piece that covers the wiper arms will either need to be cut or discarded. My only thought on this was how hard would it be to move the engine forward so that many more options might become available.

Not sure how much moving an engine forward an inch or so would affect the weight distribution overall. Probably do more damage to the handling characteristics of the car by cutting coils and that doesn't seem to have deterred anyone.

It was just a thought on the process. I don't have any plans to S/C either of the MM at this time.:)
Gotcha.
think about everything impacted: the accessory belt will be too close to or hitting the fans, wiring harness' will be to short, the exhaust manifolds/oil pan will be out of fitment to the k-member, exhaust will need extending, everything else you had already mentioned.
Moving ~700/1000lbs of motor/trans weight forward 1-2" will for sure be worse than lowering the nose weight in it's original position with cut coil sprigs. Area between the axles can handle weight shifts far better than weight added fore/aft of the axles.
Just following your thought process along...I'd think of a different method..but we must keep thinking :beer: