View Full Version : Eaton swap in the works
Ourobos
11-03-2015, 07:46 AM
I purchases a fairly complete Eaton swap yesterday. Over the next few months I hope to have it on my 03. I have a few questions, and will add to this thread as the questions grow, any help or insight is appreciated.
I plan on running the stock eaton 3.65" upper and a 2# lower, shooting for about 11psi. Will this be safe on my stock bottom end when properly tuned? Hoping it puts me right around 400 to the tires. Plans to build a bottom end and upgrade the blower in a few years are in the works.
Next, I purchased a new upgraded GT supercar pump. Can I go ahead and install this and will the car run properly with the added fuel? I'm used to return systems where the pump size doesn't really matter, the regulator sends the extra fuel on back to the tank. I'd like to be able to go ahead and get this in and drive it around the next month if need be while I'm prepping everything.
More to come, thanks again.
Brandon
8UWITH6
11-03-2015, 10:10 AM
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=94770
Reading through that should help. Any questions along the way post here. Lots of knowledgable folks on this board.
I am running a 3.4 and a 2lb lower at 11psi. I installed my fuel pump prior to doing my swap with no issues.
Ourobos
11-03-2015, 10:56 AM
Excellent news 8UWITH6. Is you car pretty much stock otherwise, and what kind of power did that make on what type of dyno? I don't want to push this engine too far, but don't want to leave a lot on the table either.
Thanks
8UWITH6
11-03-2015, 11:39 AM
No dyno. Butt dyno car feels 400 or less. Yes only other "mod" is deleted the rear cats. Car runs very well. I wouldn't push the stock engine too hard. I am already looking for a stronger short block.
Ourobos
11-03-2015, 07:12 PM
Thinking of going with the stock 3.65" upper pulley I have, and a 4# lower. Does the metco 3.2" alternator pulley work on the Marauder application, and is it necessary or suggested like on the cobra?
chief455
11-03-2015, 08:50 PM
Don't hurt your stock motor for a few ponies you'll never feel on the street..
Stock upper, 2# lower is a proven, long lasting, powerful combo.
Push the boost AFTER you swap in a forged motor and improved fuel supply
.02
Filby'sMarauder
11-04-2015, 02:21 AM
The alternator pulley is not necessary because you will have 2 belts, not 1 like the Cobra, to run everything. The supercharger has its own belt.
Ourobos
11-04-2015, 04:02 AM
Thanks guys, again
8UWITH6
11-04-2015, 07:59 AM
You have to remove the clutched pulley from the Marauder alternator. You have to buy a new pulley and nut from Ford.
Ourobos
11-04-2015, 08:12 AM
Ahh.. From any particular vehicle, or have a part number 8UWITH6?
martyo
11-04-2015, 09:02 AM
You have to remove the clutched pulley from the Marauder alternator. You have to buy a new pulley and nut from Ford.
I believe that the pulley was discontinued by Ford.
I had come pulleys made up and ordered the nuts for inventory for that reason.
8UWITH6
11-04-2015, 09:09 AM
Alternator pulley f5az-10344-a Motorcraft gp-712. Nit sure on the nut. I'm certain you can google this information if need be.
loud2004marquis
11-04-2015, 09:59 AM
Alternator nut part #
N807805S36B
Ourobos
11-04-2015, 10:32 AM
Damn you guys rocks. Thanks
guspech750
11-04-2015, 11:15 AM
I bought the nut from a hardware store. Still works.
Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.
DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom
Curless
11-04-2015, 09:47 PM
I blow nuts from a hardware store, and I Still work.
Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.
DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom
Fixed it for ya!
guspech750
11-04-2015, 11:25 PM
Fixed it for ya!
I see what you did there
HEHEHEHEHEHEHE
Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.
DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom
Ourobos
11-14-2015, 10:09 AM
http://www.bowlinggreenmustangs.com/ourobos/marauder/eaton1.JPG
http://www.bowlinggreenmustangs.com/ourobos/marauder/eaton2.JPG
Stuck with stock Eaton pulley and 2# lower until I can beef up the bottom end, rear end, and 4r70w in the next year or so. Hope to have it on the road in January.
Ourobos
11-14-2015, 11:44 AM
Getting this improved Ford GT pump in right now.. Fun reaching these wires.. Yeah buddy
Ourobos
11-14-2015, 01:30 PM
And of course now my gas gauge is way off.. Is there a baffle in these tanks the arm could be caught on? Seemed like a simple drop right back in procedure. Oh well, can't live with that crap, back out to pull it again.
Ourobos
11-14-2015, 03:50 PM
Some dummy put the sending unit on upside down when reinstalling it LOL.. gauge is good, pump is good.. Good day today
cer0413
11-14-2015, 05:00 PM
Some dummy put the sending unit on upside down when reinstalling it LOL.. gauge is good, pump is good.. Good day today
At least you spotted the issue before continuing. Good work sir.
Ourobos
11-15-2015, 06:38 PM
Is the stock 03 Cobra airbox compatible with the Marauder, is there a spot in the fender apron to pull air in? I'd prefer not to get a filter and adapter flange yet, unless necessary.
8UWITH6
11-15-2015, 06:51 PM
Just buy a conical K&N and be done with it in my opinion.
Ourobos
11-15-2015, 06:56 PM
Yeah, another $90.. Not a deal breaker, but I have the stock piece and only running 10 psi. I plan on a conical when I upgrade the engine in a year or two, but can I get by with the stock piece ;)
justbob
11-15-2015, 07:09 PM
Just buy a conical K&N and be done with it in my opinion.
I've found the Spectre cheap brand to be a great filter. Not only is it an open front unlike the K&N but it's also a stock item at Advance for only $20.
Still cleanable as the rest but at that price I just buy a new one every year.
Builder Of Badassery
Ourobos
11-15-2015, 08:03 PM
Went ahead and spend the $60 and got the flange and filter :
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-maf-adapter-with-4x9-filter-90mm-black.html
Ourobos
11-17-2015, 11:40 AM
So a day after the improved GT supercar pump, I'm pulling a P0190.. I'm reading because there's more pressure at the sensor than it's parameters, and to have the tuner up the range when it's tuned, sound right? Runs great. It does take a half second longer to start when cranking than it did with the stock pump, but I'm pretty keen on changes, nothing REAL noticeable.
loud2004marquis
11-17-2015, 02:59 PM
Had the same fuel pump installed a few months before doing the Eaton Swap on mine and didn't have any codes.
Ourobos
11-17-2015, 05:23 PM
Odd.. I can't imagine my fuel pressure sensor just happened to go out the same time I upgraded the fuel pump. I suppose I'll have the tuner check the values when I get it there to be sure. Thanks for the input
Ourobos
11-18-2015, 08:12 PM
Received my Autometer vacuum/boost gauge, Autometer oil gauge, and my ring set to make my volt meter my 3rd gauge today. May do some work this weekend and get em installed. Will put up before and after pics if so.
Ourobos
11-20-2015, 07:04 AM
Well my P0190 keeps returning. Mind you this is an immaculately maintained car, never any issues. This came up the DAY after the fuel pump upgrade. Any other theories before I waste $100 on a new sensor.
Well my P0190 keeps returning. Mind you this is an immaculately maintained car, never any issues. This came up the DAY after the fuel pump upgrade. Any other theories before I waste $100 on a new sensor.
It's the fuel pump voltage tables.
Ourobos
11-20-2015, 07:26 AM
Thanks Zack, I think it was your thread I searched and read that, that's where I got the idea. I'll just leave the CEL on and let the tuner handle it when I get there. I appreciate it.
8UWITH6
11-20-2015, 09:37 AM
No worries keep driving.
Ourobos
11-20-2015, 12:45 PM
You guys rock..
Ourobos
12-14-2015, 07:43 AM
No real updates on the swap. It's in the shop in the works. Maybe 2-3 weeks away, I'm pretty busy with work. I do have a dyno appointment 1-22-16, so definitely by then.
In the meantime, I am building a shortblock for next year when I decide to upgrade the blower, rearend, transmission, etc.
I have a Cobra crank, 4340 H-beams, and these nice Wiseco babies that just got here today.. Pieces of art :
Ourobos
12-21-2015, 05:58 PM
Disassembly has begun
Turbov6Bryan
12-21-2015, 06:00 PM
Looks like tons of fun!
Git r dun
8UWITH6
12-21-2015, 08:20 PM
Post questions here or PM. Doing it in 4 days? ;)
Ourobos
12-21-2015, 08:33 PM
LOL, if it weren't for all these FAMILY get togethers I would.. ;)
Filby'sMarauder
12-21-2015, 10:43 PM
Good luck with your build. I'm sending you a PM.
Brian
Ourobos
12-24-2015, 02:13 PM
Making progress. Had an 8 rib alternator pulley by mistake, had to order a 6-rib, will be here next week. Still making some progress. Coolant crossover cut and welded, blower on, never cam covers on, brackets mocked up.. Won't be too long now
Ourobos
12-24-2015, 02:27 PM
For those interested on seeing the crossover modifed..
Before, during and after
8UWITH6
12-25-2015, 07:36 AM
Oh the infamous crossover tube...........
Ourobos
12-25-2015, 09:44 AM
It certainly took some fabrication
lji372
12-25-2015, 10:21 AM
It certainly took some fabrication
Meh cut some pipe weld it together, no biggie :lol: j/k
Ourobos
12-25-2015, 01:07 PM
Well it wasn't like building the Taj Mahal, but it did take quite a few cuts
I hope you pressure tested it.
Welding that close to the factory bungs (which are brazed in) will cause the brazing to become liquid and leak out.....causing a LOT of leaks
Ourobos
12-25-2015, 03:08 PM
I indeed did. Thanks for the heads up.
Ourobos
12-25-2015, 06:28 PM
Waiting on this dang alternator pulley
8UWITH6
12-25-2015, 06:58 PM
Do explain the coolant reservoir and its purpose. Engine or blower supply? I have never seen one like that.
Ourobos
12-25-2015, 07:01 PM
Intercooler tank.. I think it came from a Lightning, you're right, doesn't look like a Cobra.
8UWITH6
12-25-2015, 07:28 PM
Makes sense. My Dad has an 03 Harley F150 looked familiar.
Ourobos
01-03-2016, 04:09 PM
Headed into the home stretch. Put the startup tune on it. Have to test drive, if all is well, dyno tune on 1-22.
Drewstang
01-05-2016, 05:46 PM
Needs more burnout videos.
ChiTownMaraud3r
01-05-2016, 07:02 PM
This reservoir setup looks better imo. More factory looking as my car has a gap in that position now.
Ourobos
01-05-2016, 07:25 PM
I like it as well. It's a Lightning / Harley F150. I guess the only draw back is you MUST run a shorter conical filter. No problem there though. I'll post up numbers after the dyno on 1-22. It's a Mustang Dyno, hoping for 375rwhp. This is bone stock with 10 psi and mufflers only (rear cats deleted). Anything higher is just a plus.
8UWITH6
01-05-2016, 08:11 PM
I like it as well. It's a Lightning / Harley F150. I guess the only draw back is you MUST run a shorter conical filter. No problem there though. I'll post up numbers after the dyno on 1-22. It's a Mustang Dyno, hoping for 375rwhp. This is bone stock with 10 psi and mufflers only (rear cats deleted). Anything higher is just a plus.
I will laugh when it does over 4 at the tire. Keep us posted.
Ourobos
01-05-2016, 08:22 PM
I will too, I'd be tickled.. Will do
justbob
01-06-2016, 05:47 AM
I suspect you'll see at least 410 on a Mustang. Years ago I made 445/431 on a dynojet with only mufflers, a 3.2, conical air filter/lightning MAF/MAFia & stock zip tube running 11.7#s. This was with the auto trans and everything else bone stock.
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RubberCtyRauder
01-06-2016, 07:18 AM
Awesome! another eaton swap completed!
Drewstang
01-28-2016, 12:38 PM
Any numbers or did you get caught in the Snowpocalypse?
Ourobos
01-28-2016, 04:33 PM
Snow.. Schedules in 3 weeks now
Ourobos
02-09-2016, 08:43 PM
Where to tap into for boost gauge? I have no small vacuum tubes or port on this Eaton or near it. Just the ~3/8" that feeds everything. EGR has been deleted. Any ideas?
8UWITH6
02-09-2016, 08:48 PM
I think I reduced the lowest 3/8" port down with a tee for 7/32 and 1/8 for the boost bypass valve and the fuel rail pressure sensor. Then tee'd into the 1/8 line going to the fuel rail pressure sensor for the boost gauge. Hell I would I have to go look at it.
justbob
02-09-2016, 08:54 PM
What did you do with the MAP sensor hole or did you use that for your IAT? I've tapped them in the past and used that because I chose a regular IAT 3/8" sensor elsewhere.
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Ourobos
02-09-2016, 09:27 PM
Got rid of MAP for IAT..
I just hate to have so many Tee fittings, I'll look into tapping into the boost bypass valve.
Thanks
Ourobos
02-13-2016, 05:11 PM
Converted my center gauge cluster to a 3-gauge setup today. Put the boost gauge on the driver's side, a real Autometer oil gauge in the center, and left the volt gauge on the right. I might go with a trans. temp gauge instead of volts eventually. Also of note, I had to drill through the firewall for the boost gauge tubing, I saw nowhere to run the line otherwise. I also used LEDs on all the gauges. I'm super happy with it. I got to see a brief 10psi as well. Still waiting to tune on 2-25 to fully utilize the boost function ;)
MOTOWN
02-13-2016, 05:36 PM
There's a few openings you could have routed the boost/vacuum tubing through, no need to drill the firewall , i hope you used a quality grommet or you will be tracing a vacuum leak in the future.
Ourobos
02-13-2016, 05:40 PM
Hah indeed. I couldn't find one near the driver side at all, and the passenger side was full of HVAC. Where is a good one for future reference ?
MOTOWN
02-13-2016, 05:43 PM
Hah indeed. I couldn't find one near the driver side at all, and the passenger side was full of HVAC. Where is a good one for future reference ?
The easiest way is to slot an existing factory grommet, and route it that way there's quite a few on the drivers side.
justbob
02-13-2016, 06:44 PM
Above the gas pedal is the one I use. Small incision on '03's, or run the tubing right thru the brake release vacuum line (same grommet) on '04's as they don't use it. Both ends are just capped off.
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guspech750
02-13-2016, 07:42 PM
Above the gas pedal is the one I use. Small incision on '03's, or run the tubing right thru the brake release vacuum line (same grommet) on '04's as they don't use it. Both ends are just capped off.
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Memories. [emoji173]️[emoji173]️[emoji173]️
Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.
Ourobos
02-20-2016, 03:26 PM
I put a JLT oil separator on last week in case of any blow by. Just check it for the heck of it, and it had about 1/2" of some light brown transparent water in it. What's up with that. Not a drop of oil in it. Almost had a fuel smell, but tasted like water ;)
Marauderjack
02-21-2016, 03:51 AM
Water vapor pulled from the crankcase......not unusual especially in cold weather!!:shake:
8UWITH6
02-21-2016, 08:55 AM
Makes me feel better. Friday in the shop I was bench racing (drinking beer) with Turbov6Bryan and Jaydees and I pulled my catch can out for fun. It was 3/4 full of water and of course the light brown oil. I was a little worried about the water but it has been about 3000 since I changed the oil. Amazing how much moisture it pulled out!
Ourobos
02-25-2016, 12:28 PM
Finishing up at Blankenship Tuning, at 16 degrees timing, on 10.5 psi, the Marauder made 392 rwhp, and 406 torque. Mustang Dynamometer :) Quite satisfied.
8UWITH6
02-25-2016, 08:14 PM
Nicely done.
2,4shofast
02-26-2016, 08:32 AM
Nice numbers, I would be happy with that.:beer:
cer0413
02-26-2016, 07:35 PM
Finishing up at Blankenship Tuning, at 16 degrees timing, on 10.5 psi, the Marauder made 392 rwhp, and 406 torque. Mustang Dynamometer :) Quite satisfied.
The wonderful world of boost. [emoji482] [emoji482]
Ourobos
04-06-2016, 03:48 PM
Every since my swap and flipping the alternator, although it works great, it is making a squealing noise, mainly at 2500 rpm and above. A quick shot of silicone spray on the pulley shaft stops it for a day or two, then it's back. Is this due to turning CCW now? Any easy solutions other than replacement?
myrodr
04-06-2016, 06:12 PM
Check the belt length. Mine was at the end of travel for the belt tensioner ,shorter belt fixed the problem for me.
Ourobos
04-06-2016, 06:23 PM
Will do. Wondering why a little lube on the alt. shaft stops it though?
Will do. Wondering why a little lube on the alt. shaft stops it though?
The spacing is not correct.
Try moving it away from the timing cover by adding 1 washer on each mounting stud.
Been there, done that
Ourobos
04-06-2016, 07:09 PM
Excellent, thanks.
8UWITH6
04-06-2016, 07:32 PM
I am lazy, I just put a dab of dielectric on the belt. Maybe I should try the washer thingy.
Ourobos
04-08-2016, 10:42 AM
Lil' dab did the trick til I can get it in the shop next week or so and put the spacers in.. Thanks for the tip, dielectrics lasts a lot longer than silicone spray.
silversnake
04-09-2016, 11:57 PM
The spacing is not correct.
Try moving it away from the timing cover by adding 1 washer on each mounting stud.
Been there, done that
Agree with spacing not being correct. I had the same issue. I had the wrong alt. Pulley which caused belt alignment to be slightly off. Replaced my pulley with the correct one and never squeaked again
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