FOUR MOST COMMON MARAUDER HVAC PROBLEMS

[fastblackmerc]

FOUR MOST COMMON MARAUDER HVAC PROBLEMS

PROBLEM: Air blows out of the defrost vents instead of where it should or may come out where it's supposed to until you accelerate, then the air comes out the defrost.
Most likely the o-rings on the solenoids, inside the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC), need to be replaced. The cheap rubber hardens over time causing a vacuum leak. I’ve replaced some that are so brittle that they break into pieces when I remove them. You will probably see that all four o-rings are square, square doesn’t seal a round cylinder very good. They should be replaced with high quality silicone o-rings and a small amount of silicone dielectric grease. If you buy another EATC, even a new one, you will eventually need to replace the o-rings.

Could also be a vacuum leak inside the car or under the hood.

Could also be the electronics inside the EATC.

NOTE: If you disconnect the vacuum connector from the EATC you might notice that there is one hose “missing”. It’s not supposed to be there. Looking at the nipples on the back of the EATC one has no opening.

PROBLEM: Blower doesn’t work or only blows at one speed.
Most likely it is the Blower Control Module (BCM). Tap the BCM (under the hood, behind the passenger side cam cover). If tapping the BCM makes the blower work correctly, the BCM needs to be replaced. Buying a new BCM (only buy a new one from FORD – aftermarket ones have a poor track record) will fix the problem but it will probably happen again due to the type of solder used. If tapping the BCM doesn’t make the blower come on then you probably need a new blower motor or the fan control / electronics inside the EATC can be bad.

PROBLEM: Temperature doesn’t regulate, its either too hot or too cold and or knocking noise coming from center of the dash.
Run the EATC self test, if you get an "024" or "025" code the Blend Door Actuator is bad. A code of "888" means all is OK as far as the self test is concerned.
The BDA moves a door that closes off either the heater core or the evaporator, providing just the right mix of hot or cold air depending on the temperature setting in the EATC. When the BDA goes bad it doesn’t move at all or it rapidly moves back and forth creating a knocking noise. The only fix is to replace the BDA. The part is less than $100.00 and again only buy a FORD one! Don’t buy an aftermarket as you don’t want to do the job again or pay the labor to get it done again as the dash need to come apart.

PROBLEM: No A/C
The A/C system is a closed system. If it is blowing warm or hot air, most likely there is something wrong with the A/C system. If you have to add freon to get the system to work, you have a leak in the system and unless you are experienced and licensed to work on the A/C systems (in most states) you need to take it to a professional. One of the most common problems is the bottom of the receiver / dryer rusts out due to its construction and location. If it needs to be replaced insist on an aluminum replacement part.

Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Self-Test


The EATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A NGS tester must be used to retrieve these concerns.
The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°-32°C (40-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.
The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.
If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.
If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer to the Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation.
To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank).
To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.
Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).
Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.

[Marauderman]

Waiting for your shop to open--I can be your first customer---just to brag about your work....even though I don't have a prob at moment--just to have you do anything to my My MM is super !!!!! ---

Great 411 for everyone you present here--new folks will sponge it all in --I hope and contact you...........before hand (meaning doing stupid--not doing it!!)

Thanks for great STUFF

[NavySeabee]

PROBLEM: Temperature doesn’t regulate, its either too hot or too cold and or knocking noise coming from center of the dash.
Run the EATC self test, if you get an 025 or 025 code the Blend Door Actuator is bad.
The BDA moves a door that closes off either the heater core or the evaporator, providing just the right mix of hot or cold air depending on the temperature setting in the EATC. When the BDA goes bad it doesn’t move at all or it rapidly moves back and forth creating a knocking noise. The only fix is to replace the BDA. The part is less than $100.00 and again only buy a FORD one! Don’t buy an aftermarket as you don’t want to do the job again or pay the labor to get it done again as the dash need to come apart.



Yep, that's what I'm going through right now. The knocking drives me nuts! Doesn't do it all the time. How many hours of labor you think?

[a_d_a_m]

What's the cause of the HVAC coming on AUTO at 60F without driver input? Only happens when it's below 65 degrees. Doesn't happen if the HVAC is already running in a different mode.

[GoldPanther]

Yep, that's what I'm going through right now. The knocking drives me nuts! Doesn't do it all the time. How many hours of labor you think?

It took me about two hours without removing the dash!

[Weaver]

Good summary, thanks!

My blower control module went bad a few years back, replaced it with a ford BCM, and it just happened again. I want to re-solder it so it lasts this time. I thought I remembered a post about how, or a post where someone was offering to do the fix. Can't find it though... anyone know?

[Marauderman]

Good summary, thanks!

My blower control module went bad a few years back, replaced it with a ford BCM, and it just happened again. I want to re-solder it so it lasts this time. I thought I remembered a post about how, or a post where someone was offering to do the fix. Can't find it though... anyone know?

"fastblackmerc"

[sailsmen]

Thank you.

I copy these tech infos, the ones that are not copyrighted, into a doc file for easy access.

[fastblackmerc]

Good summary, thanks!

My blower control module went bad a few years back, replaced it with a ford BCM, and it just happened again. I want to re-solder it so it lasts this time. I thought I remembered a post about how, or a post where someone was offering to do the fix. Can't find it though... anyone know?


"fastblackmerc"

Marauderman is correct.

That would be me that repairs them.

[fastblackmerc]

Yep, that's what I'm going through right now. The knocking drives me nuts! Doesn't do it all the time. How many hours of labor you think?

Takes me just a little bit over 3 hours. That's the right way... not breaking anything or leaving out any screws, etc.

[fastblackmerc]

What's the cause of the HVAC coming on AUTO at 60F without driver input? Only happens when it's below 65 degrees. Doesn't happen if the HVAC is already running in a different mode.

Try running the EATC self test. Post any codes you get.

[fastblackmerc]

How do you do the EATC self test you ask????

Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Self-Test Procedure

Interior of the vehicle must be between 40 - 90 degrees while running the test. If not you may get false in-car temperature sensor errors.


The EATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A NGS tester must be used to retrieve these concerns.
The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°-32°C (40-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.
The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.
If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.
If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer to the Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation.
To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank).
To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.
Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).
Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.

[a_d_a_m]

It's been doing it for two years now; no codes the last time I ran it (2014).

[chief455]

PROBLEM: Temperature doesn’t regulate, its either too hot or too cold and or knocking noise coming from center of the dash.
Run the EATC self test, if you get an 025 or 025 code the Blend Door Actuator is bad.
The BDA moves a door that closes off either the heater core or the evaporator, providing just the right mix of hot or cold air depending on the temperature setting in the EATC. When the BDA goes bad it doesn’t move at all or it rapidly moves back and forth creating a knocking noise. The only fix is to replace the BDA. The part is less than $100.00 and again only buy a FORD one! Don’t buy an aftermarket as you don’t want to do the job again or pay the labor to get it done again as the dash need to come apart.
______________________________ _________________________

my brothers 05 GM non eletronic has the hot/cold can't decide blues.
now, since it is winter, even when it flips to 'warm' he gets no heat.
A month ago, with cold A/C blowing, you could hear it 'bonk' to warm, and hot azz air would pump out.
Shut it off, turn it on and the cold might come back...then 'bonk' back to warm.
thinking his door is just hung up in the middle now?

start removing the dash, pulling the passenger side out enough to get at this?
can you link to a pic thread?

can't stand the though of having a dealer do it...
thanks

[GoldPanther]

Usually shops will remove the whole dash while some people just semi-remove it and by this I mean they only unbolt the needed stuff just enough to bend the dash forward enough to remove the BDA.
I managed to remove it without removing the dash at all.
What I did was the following. ..
Removed the trim inserts, cluster bezel, radio, airbag and one air conduct.
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b525/goldpanther/Tech/20151004_110225_zpss0avzwek.jp g (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/goldpanther/media/Tech/20151004_110225_zpss0avzwek.jp g.html)

http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b525/goldpanther/Tech/20151004_112242_zpsnsbarkag.jp g (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/goldpanther/media/Tech/20151004_112242_zpsnsbarkag.jp g.html)

While the BDAwas still in place is removed the cover and the guts of it in order to gain more space to work.
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b525/goldpanther/Tech/20151004_113710_zpsc6h4qxl2.jp g (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/goldpanther/media/Tech/20151004_113710_zpsc6h4qxl2.jp g.html)
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b525/goldpanther/Tech/20151004_115251_zpswdyeim1z.jp g (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/goldpanther/media/Tech/20151004_115251_zpswdyeim1z.jp g.html)

Removed the first two bolt and then I pushed the BDA further inside to het space to remove the third bolt.
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b525/goldpanther/Tech/20151004_122624_zpsf3bgdjnp.jp g (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/goldpanther/media/Tech/20151004_122624_zpsf3bgdjnp.jp g.html)

Then I put in the new motorcraft in place, putting the bolts back requires a lot of patience. Then the secret to bolt it back in is using the right tools, a magnet bar!
While you are holding the tiny wrench with your right hand from the airbag side, with your left hand use a magnet bar to guide the wrench from the radio side.
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b525/goldpanther/Tech/20151004_135746_zps1rb0n4p2.jp g (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/goldpanther/media/Tech/20151004_135746_zps1rb0n4p2.jp g.html)

Something like this...
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b525/goldpanther/Tech/20151004_141259_zpsoz3facbj.jp g (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/goldpanther/media/Tech/20151004_141259_zpsoz3facbj.jp g.html)

Hope this was useful, also I want encourage you to try it this way amd if does work for you have plan B, removing the dash.
I now charge $100 to replace a BDA in the Chicago area!
(I think I should have post a write up)

[chief455]

GoldPanther = WINNING!! :bows:

[GoldPanther]

GoldPanther = WINNING!! :bows:
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b525/goldpanther/Agree_zpsfe6ad0f8.gif (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/goldpanther/media/Agree_zpsfe6ad0f8.gif.html)
LOL

[pacammer]

Had no Heat at all... after summer

Did EATC self test; it freed up... THANK YOU for the post...

I am glad I didn't have to remove dash or even try to get my arms in through radio / airbag opening's...

[fastblackmerc]

Had no Heat at all... after summer

Did EATC self test; it freed up... THANK YOU for the post...

I am glad I didn't have to remove dash or even try to get my arms in through radio / airbag opening's...

That will work a few times...

[kirk]

How do you do the EATC self test you ask????

Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Self-Test


The EATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A NGS tester must be used to retrieve these concerns.
The EATC module self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display hard diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in addition to intermittent diagnostic trouble codes for concerns that occur during system operation. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°-32°C (40-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false in-car temperature sensor DTCs will be displayed.
The self-test can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds. The display will show a pulse tracer going around the center of the display window. The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.
If any DTCs appear during the self-test, follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION for each DTC given.
If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, refer to the Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Improper Operation.
To exit self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, push the blue (cooler) button. The control will exit self-test, retain all intermittent diagnostic trouble codes and then turn OFF (display blank).
To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The vacuum fluorescent display window will show 888 and all function symbols for one second. Then, the EATC control assembly will turn OFF (display blank) and all DTCs will be cleared.
Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).
Intermittent DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent condition occurs.


Do you happen to have a written sequence of operations for the automatic mode?

[Weaver]

Marauderman is correct.

That would be me that repairs them.

Cool, PM sent on the 6th.

[BeeDamn]

This thread should be sticky! Thanks for the useful information!

[fastblackmerc]

Cool, PM sent on the 6th.

I don't have any repaired ones available.

[RF Overlord]

This thread should be sticky! Agreed, and done!

[Weaver]

I don't have any repaired ones available.

Can I send you my already removed bad one? Or two if I feel like pulling the current one out?

[Mike M]

FOUR MOST COMMON MARAUDER HVAC PROBLEMS

PROBLEM: Air blows out of the defrost vents instead of where it should.
Most likely the o-rings on the solenoids, inside the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC), need to be replaced. The cheap rubber hardens over time causing a vacuum leak. I’ve replaced some that are so brittle that they break into pieces when I remove them. You will probably see that all four o-rings are square, square doesn’t seal a round cylinder very good. They should be replaced with high quality silicone o-rings and a small amount of silicone dielectric grease. If you buy another EATC, even a new one, you will eventually need to replace the o-rings.

Could also be a vacuum leak inside the car or under the hooD
Could also be the electronics inside the EATC.

NOTE: If you disconnect the vacuum connector from the EATC you might notice that there is one hose “missing”. It’s not supposed to be there. Looking at the nipples on the back of the EATC one has no opening.

PROBLEM: Blower doesn’t work or only blows at one speed.
Most likely it is the Blower Control Module (BCM). Tap the BCM (under the hood, behind the passenger side cam cover). If tapping the BCM makes the blower work correctly, the BCM needs to be replaced. Buying a new BCM (only buy a new one from FORD – aftermarket ones have a poor track record) will fix the problem but it will probably happen again due to the type of solder used. If tapping the BCM doesn’t make the blower come on then you probably need a new blower motor or the fan control / electronics inside the EATC can be bad.

PROBLEM: Temperature doesn’t regulate, its either too hot or too cold and or knocking noise coming from center of the dash.
Run the EATC self test, if you get an 025 or 025 code the Blend Door Actuator is bad.
The BDA moves a door that closes off either the heater core or the evaporator, providing just the right mix of hot or cold air depending on the temperature setting in the EATC. When the BDA goes bad it doesn’t move at all or it rapidly moves back and forth creating a knocking noise. The only fix is to replace the BDA. The part is less than $100.00 and again only buy a FORD one! Don’t buy an aftermarket as you don’t want to do the job again or pay the labor to get it done again as the dash need to come apart.

PROBLEM: No A/C
The A/C system is a closed system. If it is blowing warm or hot air, most likely there is something wrong with the A/C system. If you have to add freon to get the system to work, you have a leak in the system and unless you are experienced and licensed to work on the A/C systems (in most states) you need to take it to a professional. One of the most common problems is the bottom of the receiver / dryer rusts out due to its construction and location. If it needs to be replaced insist on an aluminum replacement part.


Did you mean to say code 025 twice?

if you get an 025 or 025 code the Blend Door Actuator is bad.

[fastblackmerc]

Did you mean to say code 025 twice?

if you get an 025 or 025 code the Blend Door Actuator is bad.

It should be codes 024 or 025.

Good catch!

[Chevyguy]

Great thread, I was just pondering such questions.

My 04 Marauder has an odd Blower motor problem. I had experienced blower control module (BCM) failure on my old 94 and 96 Town cars, in that case there was no fan unless you manually selected full speed on the EATC. But with the Marauder it starts out fine, but then the fan ends up at full speed and one can't override it except for shutting off the Climate control. It does seem to be sensing the proper temp etc, as it will pulse back and forth a few times, and will start out at a proper speed.

In the old Town cars I was able to fix the BCM by soldering the main transistor connections on the circuit board

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=42 706&stc=1&d=1448910809

Does this trick work with the newer style BCM with the much larger heat sink?

Secondly has anyone tried to interchange a EATC from another panther?

Both my 04's had the Oring failure, and the 04 LX was pre-failed when I bought it. The MM failed and the LX was temporarily out of service so I swapped in the LX EATC, but it did not work right. A few functions did not work, put it back in the LX and it worked fine. So I used the spare Orings and fixed the MM EATC and all was fine, of course it took much less time to do the job the second time.

[Amg07111]

What if it goes straight to that 888 with all the functions around it

[crownvic05]

Whats the problem when you select vents or floor or which ever and the heat comes out from all of it and not the selected one?

[Amg07111]

The heat works and the ac works from the floor and the vent but not the middle vent

[fastblackmerc]

What if it goes straight to that 888 with all the functions around it

888 means all is OK.

[fastblackmerc]

Whats the problem when you select vents or floor or which ever and the heat comes out from all of it and not the selected one?

It could be the EATC unit, pinched vacuum line, stuck or bad door, disconnected vacuum line or bad vacuum motor.

[Ken]

We've had to change the accumulator on two 04's, bottom rusted. Easy to change, luckily my brother-in-law has the equipment to recharge AC.

[1Marauder]

And I have been flamed on about this in the past, and may get flamed again now. Just tested EATC got 888 code (everything ok). Had no air at all. Changed BCM, had AC for 3 min. Changed $14.00 relay... AC fixed.

I am a big believer in changing out 15 year old Relays first (I was out and ordered more on line.). On items like brake safety start (lock out) or AC, things that get used a lot, changing out Relays to new ones only makes sense! And saves dollars and time.

[MyBlackBeasts]

And I have been flamed on about this in the past, and may get flamed again now. Just tested EATC got 888 code (everything ok). Had no air at all. Changed BCM, had AC for 3 min. Changed $14.00 relay... AC fixed.

I am a big believer in changing out 15 year old Relays first (I was out and ordered more on line.). On items like brake safety start (lock out) or AC, things that get used a lot, changing out Relays to new ones only makes sense! And saves dollars and time.

No flaming that, it's common sense. Especially how cheap & weak modern car relays are. 1st time I had a problem with a relay, I replaced all. Cheap prevention of being stranded somewhere. This has the added side benefit of having a fistful of known good relays for future troubleshooting and a spare in the glovebox.

[Rich Money]

Hello, I have a 2004 Mercury Marauder which I bought new. Paul Casey, RIP, talked me into buying it back when life was good. After driving his, like I stole it, I was sold. I bought mine over the phone, sight unseen. I'm in north Alabama.

I am another on the list for EATC/air conditioning issues. Four years ago I did the O-ring fix and all was wonderful again after that...now I am bewildered...I have done the O-ring fix again...as the air was blowing out the defrost and the floor. However, that did not fix my problem. I ran the self diagnostics and had no fault codes.

I checked the system for vacuum leaks, there are none. I have 20 inches of vacuum at the EATC.

I am confused and confounded. I can operate the electronics, such as the AC compressor, the blend door (Changing from hot to cold or cold to hot, the air is cold. The heat is hot.), the fan speed, via the EATC and MANUALLY jump the vacuum hose to operate the different vacuum actuators and they all work fine when I do this MANUALLY. I can make the AC blow out the DASH vents MANUALLY like they should do AUTOMATICALLY.

I have now replaced the complete EATC TWICE, did not phase the problem of making the air blow out the dash vents (Which it still doesn't) ... still blowing out the defrost and floor. I have replace the blower motor controller out under the hood mounted in the blower box ... just because I could...and then replaced that part again...because the first replacement made the blower quit working. I have taken the airbag out of the dash to check the blend door...it works fine...smooth and quiet...not gonna go there since I don't have to... After taking out the air bag and vent to the passenger far side, the EATC gave me a fault code of 025 and 052. I did not get any codes till I took out the air bag and vent... I figured I upset the system with the effort it took to get the vent plastic extension out, which was a lot. I reran the EATC self diagnostics and cleared the codes. Blend door still works smoothly and quietly. Codes did not, have not reappeared. I took out the inside temperature sensor and disconnected the large white hose and blew it out...to clear any possible obstructions in the ac blower box. I reinstalled the temp sensor, still no cure. I took the apron which covers the windshield wiper mechanism and cleaned out all the leaves and silt, because I could...made no difference. Cleaned out the blower box from the access on the firewall too. Made no difference.

What am I missing? Anyone got the solution? Any more parts I can replace?

[Rich Money]

Got it fixed today...replaced the vacuum solenoids in the second EATC and life is good again. I don't know how that did it...but it did.

After the fix I amazed myself by how quick the dash all went together...sure seams like it took days to get it apart. Anyway, Life is good again.

Thanks to all who offered information.

[fastblackmerc]

Got it fixed today...replaced the vacuum solenoids in the second EATC and life is good again. I don't know how that did it...but it did.

After the fix I amazed myself by how quick the dash all went together...sure seams like it took days to get it apart. Anyway, Life is good again.

Thanks to all who offered information.

Take the "bad" solenoids apart and see what you messed up.

I'm guessing a torn o-ring or piston installed upside down.

[Blakshukvw]

What if you start your car to warm it up in the morning and the eat is set to auto but when you cine back out 20 minutes later it's stone cold in your car and the climate control had done nothing. Seems there has to be an AAT sensor inside the eatc to determine the temp inside and too tell it what to do. Maybe it's bad? Anyone experienced this?

[therealrogers]

Does it get warm after you drive it around? If so you might need to burp the baby: coolant system burp
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=1340&share_tid=84253&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Emercur ymarauder%2Enet%2Fforums%2Fsho wthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D84253&share_type=t


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[fastblackmerc]

What if you start your car to warm it up in the morning and the eat is set to auto but when you cine back out 20 minutes later it's stone cold in your car and the climate control had done nothing. Seems there has to be an AAT sensor inside the eatc to determine the temp inside and too tell it what to do. Maybe it's bad? Anyone experienced this?

Run the EATC self-test.

There are a couple of sensors, one on the top of the dash & one next to the EATC.

[bosscj72]

First off I just had the compressor the condenser the coolant O rings and one other item (expansion valve maybe). My compressor blew a hole out of it! The worse thing is the clutch squealed like crazy so I bypassed it (that was a trick using an 81.5" belt worked perfect!) My friend who is a mechanic at Ford dealer did the work and this is what I am experiencing:


1. For the first 30-50 minutes or miles the AC blows very cold out mostly of the dash (yes when on the throttle it blows out of the defrost vents). Russ fixed my EATC with silicone o rings last year at Carlisle but it never worked just right.


2. Then after the initial time the AC keeps blowing but the air doesn't come out of anywhere! I hear it blowing like crazy, the car drips water from the evaporator like normal but the temp in the car goes up. Driving through Atlanta today in HEAVY traffic at 12:30 PM was about 110 degrees in the car with the window open!


3. When the car sits for more than an hour it begins to work again for the same 30-50 minutes or miles. My 1992 Crown Vic with the old style R12 AC system with 160K miles still blows cold all of the time.


4. Now my EATC: I do the self test and it does work (it does stop when I press Floor and Off and then within 2 secs press Automatic and all it does is go back to Automatic (but no AC out of anywhere just blowing like crazy behind the dash).


Your ideas and suggestions ar5e greatly appreciated. Wish I had a Silver Birch Marauder after this near 2,000 mile trip to PA! Thanks for the help.


Dave

[SteelQualityMan]

The AC coil inside the car is freezing solid. I tried a similar trick many years ago in an old Nissan but I had to put a toggle switch let the compressor go off and the core to thaw out. If you let the system run too long with the compressor locked on you will turn your AC coil in the car into a brick temporarily, so that's why it takes a while to thaw out.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[Amethyst]

Most likely it is the Blower Control Module (BCM). Tap the BCM (under the hood, behind the passenger side cam cover). If tapping the BCM makes the blower work correctly, the BCM needs to be replaced.

Thanks for the tip. You saved me a lot of time digging into the HVAC workings. My blower was intermittent a couple months ago, seemed to stabilise as functional, then about two weeks ago it went off and stayed off. One moderate tap on the BCM with a plastic hammer and it's back for however long it lasts. If it does not want to remain on, I know where part of my bonus is going.

[fastblackmerc]

Thanks for the tip. You saved me a lot of time digging into the HVAC workings. My blower was intermittent a couple months ago, seemed to stabilise as functional, then about two weeks ago it went off and stayed off. One moderate tap on the BCM with a plastic hammer and it's back for however long it lasts. If it does not want to remain on, I know where part of my bonus is going.

I can fix your BCM.

[Lowndex]

I wish to buy a new BCM from you with your solder changes. I will ask MOs Speed Shop to install it. Please share the cost.

[fastblackmerc]

I wish to buy a new BCM from you with your solder changes. I will ask MOs Speed Shop to install it. Please share the cost.

PM sent...............

The cost would be $25.00 + the BCM cost.