Belt tensioner issue?

[RowdyRauder]

Hello all. My 04 MM has 135,000 miles on it . And it is making a clacking sound that has been Intermittent. It has Been coming more often. However when the revs increase the noise tends to go away. It is mainly during startup. But it doesn't happen on all of the startups. I was wondering what the symptoms are or sounds of a bad belt tensioner. Also, there is no performance issues or driveability issues.

[camelgrundle]

Could be timing chains. You can always have a buddy start it up and watch the tensioner.

[MOTOWN]

Either the bearing is going bad , or the tensioner pulley is rubbing against the front cover, id replace it with a Gates tensioner from Orieleys.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Take the belt off and start it. If sound gone then prolly a tensioner or pulley. Dont let run more than a moment since coolant wont be flowing. If sound still there, possibly timing chain tensioners

[fastblackmerc]

If it's the tensioner or idler, replace both and the belt.

[RowdyRauder]

Thanks a lot guys. I'll let you know what happens.

[fordnut02]

I just replaced all My Idler Pulleys bearings were Bad now motor is all quite

[RowdyRauder]

I hope it's the belt tensioner. Will know tomorrow.

[fastblackmerc]

I just replaced all My Idler Pulleys bearings were Bad now motor is all quite


I hope it's the belt tensioner. Will know tomorrow.

As you know the pulleys all get the same amount of use so if one is bad the other one will be bad shortly......

[lifespeed]

As you know the pulleys all get the same amount of use so if one is bad the other one will be bad shortly......

Definitely change all belt/idlers/tensioner at the same time. Cheap and easy, and a reasonable 100K mile maintenance item. Don't neglect the alternator one-way clutch, either. These wear and get noisy as well.

That said, a rattle at startup could very well be the evil plastic timing chain tensioners, which is quite a bit more work and money to fix. I had mine repaired with the complete Ford Racing kit including iron tensioners. It sure is nice now, but cost a pretty penny.

[RowdyRauder]

Thanks Lifespeed and everyone. I changed the tensioner and idler pulley this evening. And unfortunately, that noise is there. I also, have noticed a high pitched whine similar to a Eaton blower on a lightning. Sounds like it may be coming from the alternator. I have a bad feeling it's the tensioner. The noise is becoming more regular. There's a whining sound with occasional clacking sound that comes and goes.

[lifespeed]

Thanks Lifespeed and everyone. I changed the tensioner and idler pulley this evening.

There are two idler pullies. Don't sweat replacing them, they wear out and it needs to be done regardless. But the cam chain tensioners are a known issue. They seem to survive on some Marauders, but many on this forum have replaced them. If you plan to keep the car it is a must-do item given that you have the symptoms.

[RowdyRauder]

I've been reading about "ratcheting style" tensioners. What are your thoughts and recommendations?Do I need to modify anything to use ratcheting type or do they swap in? My buddy is bringing over a stethoscope to check it out but,like you said they Will need to be changed since I plan on keeping the car.

[lifespeed]

The Ford Racing kit (http://www.jegs.com/i/Ford+Performance/397/M-6004-A464/10002/-1) has the iron ratcheting tensioners, they just bolt on. Has all the other wear items too, chains, sprockets, guides, etc. About $450 for the kit. If you're going to open it up may as well replace it all.

Best thing to do if the alternator has issues is take it to an electric rebuild shop and change the clutched pulley and bearings. Not too expensive and a better quality unit than a Chinese knock-off from O'Reilly.

[8UWITH6]

Just continue to buy more parts that everyone "thinks" is causing your noise and throw them on the car. You will eventually fix it.............. orrrrrr diagnose it. Stethoscope at Harbor Freight is 10 dollars and change. It is nearly impossible to diagnose a noise over the internet, phone, or otherwise. Posting a video might help, but in person is best. Do you have any car buddies that can help?

[justbob]

Just continue to buy more parts that everyone "thinks" is causing your noise and throw them on the car. You will eventually fix it.............. orrrrrr diagnose it. Stethoscope at Harbor Freight is 10 dollars and change. It is nearly impossible to diagnose a noise over the internet, phone, or otherwise. Posting a video might help, but in person is best. Do you have any car buddies that can help?


This^

While others here try to help you with common items, it is still guessing. Starting a thread about your concerns is a waste of your time. The time that you could be out there zero'ing in on it with a stethoscope..

Could be the water pump too! [emoji106]🏻

^ See what I mean? ^

Don't waste your time or money, diagnose, fix, drive.

BTW pretty much anything that rotates on the front of your engine and on just about most any other car... takes a 6203 bearing that you can replace with a much higher quality than most new parts come with.


Sent from my iThrone using Tapatalk

[lifespeed]

The accessory drive should have all been changed on an old car anyway, no big deal and doesn't cost much. Listening is good, but not always reproducible without running the car on the road. Mine would only chain slap under certain conditions. Chassis ears are good, not many have access to those. Not an easy one to be 100% sure about.

[RowdyRauder]

Turns out to be two issues. One of the idler pulleys was howling. As of today both idle pulleys and tensioner have New Napa parts. I took heed and my mechanic buddy used a stethoscope and found the driver side tensioner is the culprit. I was surfing through info on this site for part numbers and came up with this posted link for the ratchet style tensioners. http://m.summitracing.com/search/brand/cloyes-gear/make/ford/engine-size/4-6l-281/part-type/timing-chain-tensioners

Anybody know if this is the right one? The original post said they fit the Mach 1. I don't currently have the funds for the Ford racing kit. Thanks again guys.

[FordNut]

Do you really think the cam chains need worked on? My wife's has 260k miles and the engine has never been opened up. It has been through 3 belt tensioners though.

[lifespeed]

Turns out to be two issues. One of the idler pulleys was howling. As of today both idle pulleys and tensioner have New Napa parts. I took heed and my mechanic buddy used a stethoscope and found the driver side tensioner is the culprit. I was surfing through info on this site for part numbers and came up with this posted link for the ratchet style tensioners. http://m.summitracing.com/search/brand/cloyes-gear/make/ford/engine-size/4-6l-281/part-type/timing-chain-tensioners

Anybody know if this is the right one? The original post said they fit the Mach 1. I don't currently have the funds for the Ford racing kit. Thanks again guys.

So are you just going to change one tensioner or both? Both are $100. Plus gaskets, etc. at least $150. Failed tensioners beat the chains and guides, you going to leave those in there too?

For all that labor I would replace the entire cam timing set while I was in there. You can't see cam chain wear without degreeing the cams.

This isn't the best place to cheap out, you don't want to go back in there again. You want a life-of-the-engine fix.

[lifespeed]

Do you really think the cam chains need worked on? My wife's has 260k miles and the engine has never been opened up. It has been through 3 belt tensioners though.

Just from what I've read on these forums it seems to be hit and miss. I had the fatal flaw as have many others. Some have skirted disaster., must be luck of the draw. If you don't hear the timing chain rattling you may be OK. If you ever have the timing cover off, of course you should change them.

The flaw is a plastic-bodied hydraulic tensioner with an O-ring seal to the front of the engine blocks stops sealing, bleeding oil pressure at the tensioner. And it has no ratchet to keep the piston from retracting at cold start either. Two separate issues if you're counting, but the full-time leak is the most serious. Cold start is just irritating.

[FordNut]

Just from what I've read on these forums it seems to be hit and miss. I had the fatal flaw as have many others. Some have skirted disaster., must be luck of the draw. If you don't hear the timing chain rattling you may be OK. If you ever have the timing cover off, of course you should change them.

The flaw is a plastic-bodied hydraulic tensioner with an O-ring seal to the front of the engine blocks stops sealing, bleeding oil pressure at the tensioner. And it has no ratchet to keep the piston from retracting at cold start either. Two separate issues if you're counting, but the full-time leak is the most serious. Cold start is just irritating.

Maybe I got lucky and got the steel ratcheting style ones from the factory. I didn't replace the ones on my built motor, since the OEM ones were the good style and nothing was wrong with them functionally.

[RowdyRauder]

Thanks for everyone's patience and suggestions. I just ordered the Cloyes tensioners for both sides and the Cloyes chain guides. Having a Ford Mechanic work on it on the side.

[RowdyRauder]

Hey Guys, I called a mechanic and they said you have to remove the motor from the engine bay to replace the tensioners. Is this correct?

[RF Overlord]

Find another mechanic...that's totally false.

Maybe he thinks the Marauder is FWD... :shake: